Tag: food

  • Albóndigas de Jalisco, Estilo Diana Kennedy::Jalisco-Style Meatballs, Adapted from Diana Kennedy

    Albóndigas Ingredientes
    These and just a few other ingredients for albóndigas de Jalisco (Jalisco-style meatballs) combine to become a simple but delicious meal.

    It's been cool during the day here in Mexico City for the couple of months since the rainy season finally got itself underway.  Summer in Mexico's Central Highlands is my favorite time of year: cool-to-warm partly sunny days are nearly always followed by downright chilly rainy nights. 

    For those of you who live in the USA or Canada, it's hard to realize that at more than 7500 feet above sea level, Mexico City has weather completely unlike what many think of as Mexico's desert or even beach temperatures.  In the last few days, the afternoon high temperatures have hovered just under 70° Fahrenheit.  In Mexico Cooks!' household, cool days always mean something warming and delicious for our comida (midday meal).  Subtly-flavored albóndigas–especially as prepared from this recipe, adapted from Diana Kennedy's book The Cuisines of Mexico–are the perfect comfort food.

    Albóndigas Ingredientes en Licuadora
    You only need to blend eggs and a few herbs and spices to give a most wonderful Mexican touch to the meat mixture for these albóndigas (meatballs).

    This is a dandy recipe for cooks of any level: if you're a beginner, you'll love the simplicity and authenticity of the flavors of the end product.  If you're a more advanced cook, the people at your table will believe that you worked for hours to prepare this traditional Mexican meal. 

    All the ingredients you need are undoubtedly easy for you to get even if you live outside Mexico.  Here's the list, both for the meatballs and their sauce:

    Ingredients
    Albóndigas

    1.5 Tbsp long-grain white rice
    Boiling water to cover
    3/4 lb ground pork
    3/4 lb ground beef
    2 eggs
    1/4 scant teaspoon dried oregano
    4 good-sized sprigs fresh mint (preferably) OR 1 tsp dried mint
    1 chile serrano, roughly chopped
    3/4 tsp salt
    1/4 scant teaspoon cumin seeds OR ground cumin
    1/3 medium white onion, roughly chopped

    Albóndigas Carne con Líquido
    Add the liquified eggs, onions, chile, herbs, and spices to the ground meats and mix well with your hands.

    Sauce
    3 medium tomatoes (about 1 lb)
    1 chile serrano, roughly chopped (optional if you do not care for a mildly spicy sauce)
    Boiling water to cover
    3 Tbsp lard, vegetable oil, peanut oil, or safflower oil (I prefer lard, for its flavor)
    1 medium white onion, roughly chopped
    5 cups rich meat or chicken broth, homemade if possible
    Salt to taste

    For serving
    2 or 3 carrots, cut into cubes or sticks
    2 medium white potatoes, cut into cubes or sticks

     Utensils
    A small bowl
    A large bowl
    A blender
    A saucepan
    A fork
    A large flameproof pot with cover

    Preparing the meatballs
    Put the rice in a small bowl and cover with boiling water.  Allow to soak for about 45 minutes.  I use the glass custard cup that you see lying on its side in the initial photo–it's just the right size.

    While the rice is soaking, put both kinds of meat into the large bowl.  

    Put the eggs, onion, and all herbs and spices–in that order–in the blender jar.  Blend until all is liquified.  Add to the meat mixture and, using your hands, mix well until the liquid is thoroughly incorporated.

    Rinse out the blender jar for its next use in this recipe.

    Drain the rice and add it to the meat mixture.  Form 24 meatballs, about 1.5" in diameter, and set aside.

    Preparing the sauce

    Albóndigas Jitomate Cocinándose
    Bring about 2 cups of water to a full rolling boil.  Add the whole tomatoes and allow to cook for about five minutes, until the skins split.  Watch the pot, though: this procedure might take a bit less or a bit more time. 

    Albóndigas Pelando Jitomate
    When the tomato skins split, take the tomatoes one by one out of the water and peel them.  If you've never tried it, believe me: this is miraculously easy–the skins are not too hot to handle and they slip off the tomatoes like little gloves.  You can see that I have stuck a fork into the stem end of the tomato for ease of handling.

    Skin the tomatoes and put them in the blender jar.  Add the roughly-chopped onion and chile serrano.  Blend until thoroughly puréed.

    Albóndigas Manteca
    Freshly rendered manteca (lard) for frying the sauce.  If all you can get in your store is a hard brick of stark white, hydrogenated lard, don't bother.  It has no flavor and absolutely no redeeming value.  If you want to use lard, ask a butcher at a Latin market if he sells freshly rendered lard.  If none is available, use the oil of your choice.

    In the flameproof cooking pot, heat the lard or oil and add the tomato purée.  Bring it to a boil and let it cook fast for about three minutes.  Splatter alert here!

    Turn down the flame and add the broth to the tomato sauce.  Bring it to a simmer.  Add the meatballs, cover the pot, and let them simmer in the liquid for about an hour.

    Albóndigas Zanahoria
    After the first hour of cooking, add the carrots and the potatoes to the tomato broth and meatballs.  Cover and cook for an additional half hour.  When I made the albóndigas this time, I cubed the vegetables.  I think the finished dish is more attractive with the vegetables cut into sticks.

    Albóndigas Cocinándose
    The rich fragrance of the cooking albóndigas and their broth penetrates every corner of our home.  By the time they're ready to eat, we are more than eager!

    Albo?ndigas Caseras Febrero 2017 1
    Albóndigas de Jalisco served with steamed white rice (you might also like to try them with Mexican red rice), sliced avocado, and fresh, hot tortillas.  This flat soup plate filled with albóndigas and vegetables needs more sauce; we prefer to eat them when they're very soupy.  A serving of rice topped with three meatballs plus vegetables and sauce is plenty. 

    Albóndigas freeze really well, so I often double the recipe; I use a flat styrofoam meat tray from the supermarket to freeze the uncooked meatballs individually, then prepare the sauce, thaw the meatballs, and cook them as described.

    The single recipe serves eight.

    Provecho!

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  • Isthmus of Tehuantepec Cooking in Oaxaca: Cocina Istmeña Oaxaqueña

    Oaxaca Rodolfo con Elisa
    Good friend and chef Rodolfo Castellanos with his adorable daughter Elisa.  Chef Rodolfo owns Restaurante Origen in Oaxaca.  He and Elisa's mother, Lisette, asked me to join them for comida (the main meal of the day) at Oaxaca's Restaurant La Teca.

    Invited by the Mexico Today initiative to a several-day-long meeting in Oaxaca, I took a little time away from that group to visit another group: several culinary-world friends who live and work in this southern Mexico city.   I played hooky to eat on Friday with Pilar Cabrera at her wonderful restaurant La Olla, and on Saturday with chef Rodolfo Castellanos and his family at La Teca, a restaurant specializing in cooking from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.

    The Isthmus of Tehuantepec is the skinniest part of mainland Mexico, lying between the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico.  Prior to the opening of the Panama Canal, it was the most important route for goods working their slow way across the relatively flat lands between the two bodies of water.  Partly in Oaxaca, partly in Chiapas, partly in Tabasco and partly in Veracruz, the territory has its own legends, its own history, and its own cuisines. 

    Oaxaca 1948 Frida Tehuana
    You may not be aware that you are already familiar with the native dress of the Tehuanas, as the women of the isthmus are known.  Above, a Frida Kahlo 1948 self portrait, dressed as a Tehuana. Image courtesy of: http://www.earlywomenmasters.net

    Oaxaca Restaurante La Teca
    Far off the beaten tourist track in Oaxaca, Restaurant La Teca serves outstanding food from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.  The welcoming owner and cook, Señora Deyanira Aquino, will make sure that you eat your fill of her marvelous regional cuisine.

    The cooking of the Isthmus is traditionally corn-based and idiosyncratic.  Most ingredients are indigenous to its hot lowlands (for example, armadillo and iguana) and its proximity to the sea: fresh and dried shrimp, fresh fish, and other creatures from the ocean depths.

    Oaxaca La Teca Garnachas Oaxaqueñas
    At La Teca we shared a platter of garnachas, a traditional entrada or botana (appetizer or snack) based on a fried disk of corn dough and topped with a mixture of meat, vegetables, and salsa.

    Oaxaca La Teca Tamales de Cambray
    Tamalitos de cambray from Tehuantepec, savory-sweet tamales made of chicken, raisins, olives, almonds, and capers.

    Oaxaca La Teca Molotes de Plátano Macho
    These are molotes de plátano macho (small, sweetly ripe plantain croquettes) topped with crema de mesa (table cream) and queso fresco (fresh cheese).  The three of us shared an order of four molotes.  We kept dividing the last one into smaller and smaller pieces so that one of us did not hog the whole thing–although each of us would have!

    Oaxaca La Teca Taco de Chile Relleno Pasilla Oaxaqueño
    Next course at La Teca: a taco filled with a small chile pasilla oaxaqueño relleno (a regional dried chile, reconstituted, stuffed, and fried).  It doesn't look like anything special, does it?  If you could just enjoy the fragrance, I assure you that you would want to lick your monitor.

    Oaxaca La Teca Tamales de Elote 2
    Tamales de elote (fresh corn tamales) followed, served with crema de mesa.  These reminded me very much of Michoacán uchepos, another kind of fresh corn tamales.

    Oaxaca La Teca Estofado de Bodas
    Another traditional dish from the Isthmus, estofado de bodas (wedding stew).  It's a delicious long-cooked combination of beef, fruits, chiles, and other spices, typically served at weddings.

    Oaxaca La Teca Purée de Papa
    Purée de papa, estilo Istmeño (potatoes, coarsely mashed and then baked, Isthmus style). 

    Oaxaca La Teca Carne de Cerdo
    Asado de puerco con mole (pork roasted with mole, from Tehuantepec).

    Oaxaca La Teca en Persona
    The owner and chief cook at La Teca is Sra. Deyanira Aquino, born and raised in the Isthmus.  Women of the region are called 'tecas'–from Tehuantepec–hence the name of the restaurant.

    You are probably well aware of the mythical seven moles of Oaxaca, and although the state is best known for those, there are many other less-well-known but equally wonderful dishes available to visitors.  By all means go see Sra. Aquino at La Teca; you will be as thrilled by everything you eat as we were.  This is not fancy, high-end designer-plated food.  Your palate will be delighted by traditional Tehuantepec home-style cooking.  And oh my god, you might exclaim, did the three of you really eat all that?  We most assuredly did, every bite, and so will you.

    Restaurant La Teca
    Calle Violetas #200-A
    Colonia Reforma
    Oaxaca, Oaxaca
    01.951.515.0563 (from within Mexico)

    Disclaimer: Marca País-Imágen de México is a joint public and private sector initiative designed to helppromote Mexico as a global business partner and an unrivaled tourist destination.  This program is designed to shine a light on the Mexico that its people experience every day.  Disclosure: I am being compensated for my work in creating content for the Mexico Today program.  All stories, opinions, and passions for all things Mexico that I write on Mexico Cooks! are completely my own.

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  • Morelia en Boca en la Boca de Todos :: Everybody’s Talking about Morelia en Boca, Part 1

    Morelia en Boca logotipo
    Morelia en Boca 2011 offered three full days and nights of gastronomic conferences, wine and food tasting, and marvelous dinners (with wine pairings) prepared by internationally-known chefs.  Whispers of the glories of this festival-to-come had circulated for an entire year, and Mexico Cooks! had eagerly awaited the event.

    Everyone's first question was, "Why a rabbit for the festival logo?" The rabbit, long linked with the rich culture of Michoacán, has several meanings.  First, it refers to the former town of San Juan Parangaricutiro, which was relocated to the former hacienda known as Los Conejos (the rabbits) when the erupting volcano Paricutín destroyed the original town in 1943.  Second, the logo refers to the ancient Purhépecha legend of the rabbit in the moon.  According to the legend, the mischievous rabbit devours the ripe produce in a farming family's fields.  The farmer then traps the rabbit to serve as a family dinner.  The smart rabbit tricks a coyote into freeing him from his cage.  The watching moon–considered to be the rabbit's mother–gives her son the gift of zigzagging and hopping in order to escape the angry, hungry, and desperate coyote.  Just as the rabbit is about to be trapped, the moon drops down a silver ladder that she has knit from spiderwebs.  The rabbit hops high and skips up the ladder, disappearing forever into the moon's embrace.  The coyote is left on the earth to howl his pain, his hunger, his fear, and his desperation, while the rabbit is plainly visible on the shining face of his mother, the moon.  Next time the moon is full, take a look and you'll see him for yourself, still cuddled in the moon's embrace.  The rabbit in the moon, ancient emblem of Michoacán and Mexico, is visible to the entire world.

    Mise en Place con Jícaritas
    Mise en place (all previously prepared ingredients in place) for a cooking demonstration, one of many presented at this recent and enormously successful international culinary event .  The pre-measured ingredients that you see here are displayed in tiny dried jícaras (gourds).

    The festival paired renowned chefs from as far south as Oaxaca and Chiapas with others from as far north as New York City.  Food writers and photographers from both Mexico and the United States descended en masse on Morelia for the event.  The most common and excited exclamation among wine and culinary participants at the festival–in both Spanish and English–was, "Oh my god, we're friends on Facebook and finally we get to meet in person!

    Pilar, Lucero, Iliana Presentación
    From left, Oaxaca's Chef Pilar Cabrera of Restaurante La Olla, Morelia's favorite daughter Chef Lucero Soto Arriaga (Restaurante LU, Morelia), and Chef Iliana de la Vega, of the Austin, Texas restaurant El Naranjo (formerly based in Oaxaca).  The three laughing chefs were mid-presentation at Morelia en Boca.

    Grupo Cocina al Natural
    The group from Cocina al Natural, including Celia Marín, Bertha Herrera, Martha Ponce, Sonia Ortiz, and Ana Luisa Suárez of Vinos Wagner, a sponsor of the website.  Cocina al Natural launched its website with a joy-filled presentation that included video, delightful talk, and chilled white wines from from Vinos Wagner.

    Morelia en Boca offered something for everyone with an interest in either food or wine or both.  Daily conferences included panels speaking on topics ranging from the importance and influence of the Culinary Institute of America (Chefs Iliana de la Vega and Roberto Santíbañez) to the launch of the new and wonderful interactive–and very user-friendly–website Cocina al Natural (Celia Marín and Sonia Ortiz).  Equally diverse demonstrations included presentations by chefs Enrique Olvera (Restaurante Pujol, Mexico City), Pablo San Román (Restaurante DO, Mexico City) and the new generation of chefs represented by Rodolfo Castellaños (Restaurante Huaje, Oaxaca) and Marta Zepeda (Restaurante Tierra y Cielo, San Cristóbal de las Casas), and an enormous chocolate sculpture–of our logo rabbit–by premier Mexican chocolate maker and chef José Ramón Castillo.  More than a dozen separate catas de vino (wine tastings) showed off wineries from Mexico, France, Spain, and the United States.  The Belgian brewer Gouden Carolus beamed over its featured offerings of summery wheat beer and truly delicious fruit flavored beers.

    Riviera Nayarit con Betty Vázquez
    Part of the team from Riviera Nayarit, including the outstanding west coast chefs (left to right) Gerardo Sandoval Fernández, Betty Vázquez, and Marco Valdivia.  The Riviera Nayarit stand at Villa Gourmet offered portions of aguachile de camarón (raw shrimp marinated in a sometimes-fiery sauce of jugo de limón and chile serrano), along with a delicious Nayarit-style cebiche topped with spicy Salsa Huichol, one of the sponsors of Riviera Nayarit's visit to Morelia en Boca.

    Mexico Cooks! on the Job courtesy Adriana Pérez de Legaspi
    Mexico Cooks! on the job.  Photo courtesy Adriana Pérez de Legaspi.

    Food and wine tastings at Morelia en Boca took place at the Palacio Clavijero, a 17th Century Jesuit school.  In the building's second patio, more than 30 charming wooden providers' booths surrounded a multitude of comfortable tables and chairs.  The cost of festival tickets included good-sized tastes (really, as much as you wanted) of both food and drink, including treats from Oaxaca, Chiapas, Nayarit, and Michoacán, Belgian beer, and wines from several countries.

    Museo del Dulce 1 Zarza con Cotija
    Drop-dead delicious bite-size dark chocolate cups filled with jam handmade from Michoacán-grown blackberries and topped with artisan-made queso Cotija, also from Michoacán.  These little marvels (and a big selection of others) were available at the Morelia Museo del Dulce stand at Villa Gourmet.

    Next week, come back for Part Two of the festivities at Morelia en Boca.  Mexico Cooks! will feature the Morelia en Boca dinners prepared by chefs Roberto Santibáñez of Fonda in New York City, Lucero Soto Arriaga of Morelia's Restaurante LU, Margarita Carrillo de Salinas of Restaurante Don Emiliano in Cabo San José, Baja California Sur, and Rodolfo Castellanos of Restaurante Huaje, Oaxaca.

     Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.


  • Breakfast with Mexico Cooks!: Yoghurt con Fresa y Chía (Yogurt with Strawberries and Chia)

    Yoghurt 1
    Strawberry season in Mexico!  This 70-year-old mixing bowl holds one and a half kilos of sweet, ripe fruit.  At the tianguis (street market) where Mexico Cooks! shops, the price per kilo of strawberries is usually 25 pesos, or approximately $1.00 USD per pound. 

    A couple of weeks ago, Mexico Cooks! was tickled to receive a phone call from our old friend Steve Sando, red-hot heirloom bean empresario Rancho Gordo.  "Hey, I'm in town for the day on my way to Mérida–you busy?"  Of course we are never too busy for a visit from Steve and we immediately made plans for a long visit over midday  comida (the main meal of the day in Mexico).

     

    Yoghurt 10 Kitten-Chia-Pet_20090797639
    During the course of our table conversation, we somehow got around to the topic of chía, a product that's fairly newly available from Rancho Gordo.  Chía, a species of mint, is grown for its seeds.  If you've been around as long as Mexico Cooks! has, you'll remember the chía pet: spread dampened chía seeds all over a little clay animal filled with water and in just a few days, bingo, you have an animal covered with pretty green living fur–the chía plant.  Our first memory of one of these novelties was called Paddy O'Hair.

    However, chía has been around far longer than Paddy O'Hair or the current chía pet.  The ancient peoples of what is now Mexico discovered its extraordinary health properties thousands of years ago.    Chía seed may be eaten raw as a whole seed, providing protein, fiber, and fats (including Omega 3), as well as certain essential minerals. Ground chía seed is sometimes added to pinole, a coarse flour made from toasted corn kernels. Chía seeds placed in water or fruit juice are consumed in Mexico and known as chía fresca. The soaked seeds are gelatinous in texture and are used in combination with other cereals. Ground chía seed is often used in baked goods, including some commercially produced breads and cakes.

    Yoghurt 11 Zarza
    This week, one of the tianguis vendors offered big-as-the-ball-of-my-thumb, sweet, fresh Michoacán-grown zarzamora (blackberries) for only 20 pesos per kilo–that works out to slightly over 9 pesos per pound.  That's about 75 cents per pound.  Blackberries are my absolute favorite fruit to add to yoghurt, so you can guess what I bought.  I prepare them exactly as I do strawberries.

     A year or so ago, Mexico Cooks! decided to add chía seeds to our morning breakfast yoghurt.  Most yoghurt in Mexico is heavily sweetened with sugar, artificially flavored, and is nearly a drinkable consistency.  I prefer a product that starts out sugar-free, is naturally flavored, and is thick enough to eat with a spoon.  I started experimenting and came up with the following recipe.

    Yoghurt 2
    Alpura brand yoghurt is available almost everywhere in central Mexico. Many Mexican yoghurt brands are labeled "all natural", but even those without added flavorings contain a lot of sugar.  Alpura is, as far as Mexico Cooks! knows, the only national brand yoghurt that contains no sugar or artificial flavorings.  In the United States, Canada, and other countries, you'll be able to choose from several brands.  Or, of course, you can make your own plain yoghurt.

    Mexico Cooks!-Style Yoghurt with Fresh Strawberries and Chía

    Ingredients
    2 quarts plain (unsweetened and unflavored) yoghurt
    1 kilo (2.2 pounds) fresh strawberries, washed and hulled
    1/4 tsp salt (optional)
    Sweetener to taste (Rancho Gordo piloncillo, granulated sugar, or artificial sweetener)
    1/2 cup chía seeds

    Yoghurt 4

    Procedure
    Cut the strawberries in half and place in a large bowl.  Add the sweetener of your choice to the strawberries. Mexico Cooks! uses artificial sweetener due to dietary restrictions, but Rancho Gordo piloncillo would be far tastier.  Mash the berries (I use that heavy-duty metal bean masher in the photo) until some of the juice comes up, but leave most of the berry halves whole or nearly whole.

    Yoghurt 5
    Add the salt and the yoghurt and stir until well-mixed. 

    Yoghurt 6
    Mix thoroughly.

    Yoghurt 7
    Add the chía seeds and mix again.

    Yoghurt 8
    Finished!

    I package the finished yoghurt in recycled 900-gram Alpura containers.  This recipe yields three filled containers plus 2 cups, or approximately 3 liters of strawberry/chía yoghurt.  Once the yoghurt is packaged, allow it to rest overnight so that the chía will develop its gelatinous consistency and thicken the yoghurt.

    Approximate nutritional information for a one-cup serving sweetened with artificial sweetener
    Calories…………….110
    Protein……………..5 grams
    Fats………………..6 grams
    Calcium…………….120 mg
    Sodium………………60 mg
    Carbohydrates……….12 grams

    Yoghurt 9
    Breakfast: approximately one cup of yoghurt, strawberries, and chía.  After resting overnight, the chía has become gelatinous and gives substantial thickness to the yoghurt.  Three kilos plus two cups of this mixture is enough for about two weeks worth of breakfasts.

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