Category: Travel

  • Los Cantantes del Lago on Tour with Mexico Cooks! (Part Two: Guanajuato)

    La Parroquia, San Miguel de Allende
    La Parroquia (Church of St. Michael the Archangel), San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.  This church is one of the most-photographed in Mexico.  Originally built in the late 1600s, the church facade was rebuilt close to the turn of the 20th Century.  The architect, Zeferino Gutiérrez, had no formal training and patterned the church facade and towers after picture postcards of European cathedrals.

    Posada de la Aldea, SMA
    Entrance to Hotel Posada La Aldea, San Miguel de Allende.  Los Cantantes del Lago stayed here during their time in town.

    Exploring some of Mexico's historic sites was one of Los Cantantes' primary purposes in visiting the region around San Miguel de Allende.  Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato–just half an hour from San Miguel–is known as la Cuna de Independencia, the cradle of independence.  Standing on the steps of the historic church, Mexico Cooks! gave Los Cantantes a short history of Mexico's struggle for freedom from Spain.

    Church, Dolores Hidalgo
    Templo de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Church of Our Lady of Sorrows), Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato.  Padre Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla gave the Grito de Dolores (Cry from Dolores)–the call for independence from Spanish colonization–to his followers during the night of September 15, 1810.

    Countdown, Bicentenario
    Mexico is preparing for its 2010 Bicentennial.  This digital counter, positioned on the steps of the church where Hidalgo first gave the call for Mexico's freedom from Spanish rule, marks 428 days, eight hours, fifty minutes, and eleven seconds and counting, until the start of the bicentennial.

    Galeria del Arte, Dolores Hidalgo
    It wouldn't have been a trip to Dolores Hidalgo without stopping to shop for talavera, the colorful local pottery specialty.  Los Cantantes surprised the fine workshop Arte San Gabriel with the large amount of talavera they bought and loaded onto the bus to take home.

    Templo Jesus el Nazareno, Atotonilco
    The Santuario de Jesús el Nazareno (Sanctuary of Jesus the Nazarene), Atotonilco, Guanajuato, was built in the 18th Century.

    Los Cantantes del Lago scheduled two concerts in Guanajuato.  Mexico Cooks! arranged for the first of the two, to be sung outdoors at the Santuario de Jesús el Nazareno to celebrate the beginning of the church's fiestas patronales, scheduled for the third weekend in July.  As Padre Fernando Manríquez, the pastor of the Santuario, told me, "This concert is the perfect botana (appetizer) for the fiestas!"

    Under the Tarp, Atotonilco
    Los Cantantes sang in the atrium of the Santuario de Jesús el Nazareno.  

    Crowd, Atotonilco
    The crowd attending the concert in Atotonilco was composed for the most part of people making a spiritual retreat at the church.

    Women Retreatants, Atotonilco
    These women were completely enthralled by the singing.  One elderly woman (not pictured) listened to parts of the concert with happy tears running down her cheeks.

    The members of Los Cantantes del Lago were as profoundly touched as the audience was by the concert at the Santuario.  It was impossible not to draw the comparison between the formal, elegantly dressed audiences that usually attend Los Cantantes concerts and this audience, many of whom had undoubtedly never heard a live concert of this type.  One of the Cantantes said to me, "Here we are, out in the middle of nowhere, dressed in
    our tuxedos and fancy gowns, singing for people who appear to be so poor.  What must they think?"  We agreed that it honored the audience that this marvelous chorus, dressed to the nines, came to sing for them.

    As an encore, Los Cantantes sang the Mexican standard, Cielito Lindo.  The entire audience sang along in Spanish to the song's chorus–you already know it:

                                Ay, ay, ay, ay, canta y no llores!
                                Porque cantando se alegran, cielito lindo, los corazones.
                                Oh, oh, oh, oh, sing and don't cry!
                                Because, little heaven, singing makes our hearts joyful.

    How true the words are, and never brought closer to home than in this intensely emotional concert.  In Atotonilco, glorious music made all of our hearts overflow with joy.

    Tim, Atotonilco
    No one wanted the concert to end.  As soon as the last encore was sung, the crowd surged forward to thank Maestro Timothy Welch and Los Cantantes del Lago for their visit to Atotonilco.  

    Los Cantantes del Lago sang the final concert of the Central Mexico Tour at the Teatro Ángela Peralta in San Miguel de Allende.  A benefit for the Centro Infantil San Pablo, a program for needy Mexican children, the concert was a tremendous success.

    Final Concert, Angela Peralta SMA
    Final concert at the Teatro Ángela Peralta, San Miguel de Allende.

    As the surprise finale to the evening, Maestro Tim auctioned off the only copy he had left of Los Cantantes del Lago's newest recording of Christmas music.  The audience held its breath while the bidding went higher–and higher–and higher!  Hammered down at over 2500 pesos, all the proceeds from the auction of that one CD went to the Centro Infantil San Pablo.  Later in the evening, another audience member matched that bid as his personal donation to the school.

    Filled with the memories of its warm reception wherever it sang during eleven days' travel through two states and countless towns, all done in two huge buses filled with singers, equipment, baggage, and new artisan purchases, Los Cantantes del Lago took to the road from San Miguel de Allende for the return home to Ajijic, Jalisco.

    All photos courtesy of Robert Kelly.  Robert, the designated photographer for Los Cantantes del Lago, has
    posted many additional photos of the 2009 Central Mexico Tour
    in these files:

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.


  • Los Cantantes del Lago on Tour with Mexico Cooks! (Part One: Michoacán)

    Poster Morelia
    Los Cantantes del Lago, invited to perform at the 9° Festival de Coros de La Inmaculada (9th Annual Choral Festival sponsored by the Church of the Immaculate Conception) in Morelia, combined their singing tour with a tour of churches and artisan villages in the states of Michoacán and Guanajuato.

    Late last winter, Los Cantantes del Lago, a marvelous chorus based in Ajijic, Jalisco, (on the shore of Lake Chapala, Mexico's largest lake) contracted with Mexico Cooks! to plan, organize, and guide them during their Central Mexico Tour 2009.  The members of the chorus, nearly all of whom live in the Jalisco municipality of Chapala, range in age from 18 to over 80.  They are natives of countries as diverse as England, France, Canada, and the United States, as well as Mexico. 

    Los Cantantes, Zamora
    Los Cantantes del Lago, directed by Maestro
    Timothy Welch, sang at the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Sanctuary of Our Lady of Guadalupe) in Zamora, Michoacán.

    The chorus director, Timothy Welch, is a native of Wisconsin who has lived in the city of Guadalajara for the last 10 years.  Under his direction, Los Cantantes del Lago have sung throughout Mexico, they have toured in Greece, Turkey, and Ecuador, and they have produced two recordings of multilingual Christmas music.

    Calzada, Morelia
    The Calzada de Fray Antonio de San Miguel is one of the most beautiful streets in Morelia.  The tree-lined street runs from Morelia's Las Tarascas fountain to one of the city's 18th Century gems, the Santuario de Guadalupe.

    For the last nine years, Morelia's Templo de la Inmaculada Concepción (Church of the Immaculate Conception) has hosted a choral festival.  From its inception as a recital event for that church's chorus, the festival has grown into a vibrant and important showcase for choruses from all over Mexico.  Hernán Cortés, director of the festival, invited Los Cantantes del Lago to participate in the 2009 Festival del Coro.  The idea for Los Cantantes' Central Mexico Tour 2009 sprang from that invitation.

    Bell Tower La Inmaculada
    Bell tower, Templo de La Inmaculada Concepción, Morelia.  La Inmaculada is the seat of Morelia's annual choral festival.

    Singing at Marceva
    Los Cantantes del Lago enjoyed a marvelous welcome dinner at Morelia's Fonda Marceva.  The magnificent Trio Los Caracuaros de Serafín Ibarra provided live music from Michoacán's Tierra Caliente (the hot inland lowlands).  After the meal and in spite of being stuffed to the gills, Los Cantantes stood up and sang Pilgrim's Hymn from the opera The Three Hermits for the musicians who had been singing to them.  Tim Welch directs in this casual setting.

    Within the framework of the chorus's five concerts in Morelia and the surrounding region, Mexico Cooks! set up day trips to artisan villages and culturally important historical sites for Los Cantantes del Lago.

    Sanctuario de Guadalupe Morelia
    Morelia's Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Sanctuary of Our Lady of Guadalupe). Although Los Cantantes did not sing at the Santuario, its beauty made
    it a favorite destination during the week the chorus spent in Morelia.  (Photo: Mexico Cooks!

    Los Cantantes visited various locations in Morelia, Pátzcuaro, and Cuitzeo, Michoacán.  They were inspired by the restoration of the Ex-Convento de San Francisco de Ásis and shopped at the artisans' market in Tzintzuntzan. They were awed by the 16th Century Templo de Santiago Apóstol in Tupátaro.

    Templo del Sagrario Pátzcuaro
    After an afternoon touring Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Los Cantantes sang at the Templo del Sagrario (Church of the Tabernacle), built in Pátzcuaro during the 17th Century.

    Santiago Apóstol
    Santiago Apóstol (St. James the Apostle), the patron saint of the church at Tupátaro, Michoacán. (Photo: Mexico Cooks!)

    Hotel de la Soledad, Morelia
    Los Cantantes del Lago stayed in Morelia at the Hotel de la Soledad.  Public areas as well as guest rooms at the hotel are magnificently decorated and filled with flowers.

    Sta María Magdalena Cuitzeo
    After their morning trip to Tupátaro, Los Cantantes sang in Cuitzeo, Michoacán, at the 16th Century Augustinian monastery dedicated to Santa María Magdalena.

    Cuitzeo Concert
    Despite ongoing restoration at the monastery in Cuitzeo, Los Cantantes del Lago squeezed in among the scaffolding and sang a beautiful concert.

    Fuego Sta Clara
    A hand-and-foot-powered bellows makes the fire leap high in the copper
    workshop at Casa Felícitas in Santa Clara del Cobre, Michoacán.

    Visiting the copper smiths of Santa Clara del Cobre was one of the highlights of Los Cantantes' week in Michoacán.  Several of the singers took sledgehammer in hand to join the smiths in hammering a red-hot copper ingot at internationally known Casa Felícitas.

    The real joy for Los Cantantes was meeting festival choruses from all over Mexico.  All of the singing was marvelous!  Beginning with the very first performance in Zamora, Michoacán, loud cheers and standing ovations followed every Los Cantantes' concert. It was the first time a chorus composed primarily of retired foreigners sang in the Festival del Coro, but it's not likely to be the last time.  

    Muchachitas de la Yucatán, Morelia
    Joyous young chorus members from the Yucatán who also sang at the choral festival in Morelia.

    The twelve invited choruses were so ecstatic with performing that even after their full week of performances in many different venues, after the long and beautiful closing Mass at La Inmaculada Concepción, they met one last time to sing a few more songs, just for one another.

    Next week, travel with us as Los Cantantes del Lago leave Michoacán and head for San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.  Please join Mexico Cooks! for the second leg of their 2009 Central Mexico Tour.

    Except as noted, all photos are courtesy of Robert Kelly.  Robert, the designated photographer for Los Cantantes del Lago, has posted many additional photos of the 2009 Central Mexico Tour in these files:

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • La Feria del Hongo (The Mushroom Fair) 2009, Senguio, Michoacán

    Amanita, Cactu
    The wild Amanita caesarea and amanita jacksonii are two edible varieties of the common amanita fungus.  Watch out for the amanita phalloides, though: it's known as the death cap and is definitely inedible.

    This time last year, Mexico Cooks! attended the annual Feria del Hongo (Mushroom Fair) in Senguio, Michoacán.  The fair was wonderful, a tremendous lesson in the wild and cultivated edible and medicinal mushrooms of Michoacán.  Since then (and to my great surprise), the article about the mushroom fair has appeared as a link on several mushroom and mycology websites.

    Sliced Amanitas to Use with Peppers, Cactu
    Wild amanitas, sliced and ready to cook.  If you can't find amanitas where you live, try these dishes with farmed portabellos, another meaty and flavorful mushroom.

    Due to a conflict on our calendar, Mexico Cooks! isn't able to attend the August 21-23 Feria del Hongo this year.  In honor of the mushroom fair, we'd like to present some photographs and recipes by Fulvio Castillo, a biologist who is also a mycologist, photographer, and extraordinary cook.

    Amanita Frying, Cactu
    Frying amanitas in canola oil.

    Roasting Chiles and Nuts, Cactu
    Chiles serrano, nuez (pecans), and nuez de la India (cashews).  Toasting the nuts and chiles intensifies their flavors.

    Add Nuts to Mushrooms, Cactu
    Add the toasted nuts and cream to the frying mushrooms, along with a big pinch of marjoram.  Then grind the toasted chiles, avocado, onions, some cilantro, and a bit of salt in a molcajete (volcanic stone mortar and pestle) to make a simple salsa de aguacate (avocado salsa).

    Sliced Peppers for Amanitas, Cactu
    Green, yellow, and red sweet peppers, sliced into the sauté pan for yet another guisado (prepared dish) of amanitas.

    Sliced Amanitas and Peppers, Cactu
    Voilá!  A deliciously healthy comida (main meal of the day).

    Peanut Salsa 2, Cactu
    Roasted peanuts and dried, toasted red chile yahualica, crushed together in the molcajete.  The end product will be salsa de cacahuate (peanut sauce), a traditional indigenous accompaniment to main dishes.

    Peanut Salsa Molcajete, Cactu
    Continue to crush the peanuts with a little salt and the chiles until very fine-textured.  The stone pestle (upper lefthand corner of the photo) is called the tejolote.  Little by little, add water and continue to grind until the salsa is smooth and of the consistency you like.

    Peanut Salsa plus Platillos de Hongos, Cactu
    Ready to devour: mushrooms, vegetables, and two kinds of salsas: avocado and peanut/chile.  Clockwise from five o'clock: salsa de cacahuate, mushrooms with zucchini, mushrooms with cream, mushroom stems, and mushrooms with mixed sweet peppers.

    Thank you, amigo Fulvio Castillo, for permission to use your fine photographs and marvelous recipes.  If you'd care to see more of his wonderful photos,
    check this site.  During the coming week, Mexico Cooks! will be buying all the ingredients for at least one of these dishes–plus peanuts and chiles to prepare the salsa de cacahuateSe nos hace agua la boca–it makes our mouths water!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Algunas Imágines de la Virgen María en México::Images of the Virgin Mary in Mexico

    Tilma 2-08
    Patron of the Americas and Empress of Mexico: Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe).  There is no apparition of the Virgin Mary that is more highly venerated than this one.  She's known by many loving nicknames: La Morenita (the little brown woman), Paloma Blanca (white dove), and La Guadalupana (the woman from Guadalupe) are just a few.

    Dolorosa
    Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows).  This apparition of the Virgin Mary is usually seen standing at the foot of the cross where Jesus is crucified.  Dressed in black and frequently depicted with arrows piercing her heart, she is the image of pain.

    La Virgen en Tránsito, Templo de la Companía
    La Virgen en Tránsito (The Virgin in Transition).  According to Roman Catholic doctrine, when the Virgin Mary died, she was taken up to heaven, body and soul.  This 17th Century statue, from the Templo de la Companía in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, shows the Virgin after death but prior to her assumption into heaven.

    La Santísima Camino a Belén
    La Santísima Virgen en Camino a Belén (the Blessed Virgin on the Way to Bethlehem), Cuitzeo, Michoacán.  She wears her straw traveling hat as Joseph takes her to Bethlehem, where Jesus will be born.

    Nuestra Señora de Zapopan
    Nuestra Señora de Zapopan, Basílica de Zapopan, Zapopan, Jalisco.  This 16th Century image of the Virgin Mary, made of pasta de caña: cornstalk and orchid-bulb juice paste, molded to the shape of the Virgin, covered with gesso, and polychromed.  She measures a mere 14" high.  One of her nicknames is 'La Generala' (the general) after helping troops to victory in battle in 1852.  She is the santa patrona (patron Virgin) of Guadalajara.

    Nuestra Señora de la Salud
    Nuestra Señora de la Salud, Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.  This tiny 16th Century figure, revered as the patrona of Pátzcuaro, is also made of pasta de caña.

    La Inmaculada Concepción, Jalisco
    La Inmaculada Concepción (the Immaculate Conception).  This statue of the Virgin represents the Roman Catholic doctrine of her conception without the taint of original sin.  Mexico Cooks! photographed this modern image in the Templo de la Inmaculada Concepción, Concepción de Buenos Aires, Jalisco.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Cocina Económica Doña Felícitas y el Mercado Nicolás Bravo, Morelia, Michoacán

    Templo del Santo Niño
    Templo del Santo Niño (Church of the Holy Child) is the spiritual heart of this neighborhood that is part of Morelia's Centro Histórico (historic center).

    Pila Santo Niño
    The pila del Santo Niño (fountain of the Holy Child), was built in front of the church as the water supply for the neighborhood.

    Santo Niño
    The Santo Niño plaque, embedded in the wall at the side of the church.  The church was built because the plaque was found on the site.

    Mercado Nicolás Bravo
    The Mercado Nicolás Bravo is the commercial heart of the neighborhood.  Because of its proximity to the church, the mercado is more popularly known as the Mercado del Santo Niño.  The market has been a presence in Morelia for more than 34 years.  Some of the big differences between this market and others are its exemplary cleanliness, wide aisles, and the medical and dental offices upstairs.

    Reirse Mucho
    Cocina Económica de Doña Felícitas (Doña Felícitas' Affordable Foods) is space number 127, upstairs in the Mercado Santo Niño.

    Our dear friend Rosa invited us to lunch at her favorite fonda (small eating place) in the market.  Fonda food is usually just a half-step up from eating in Mom's kitchen, but once in a while we discover a treasure.  Don Joel Cuamba García and his wife, Doña Felícitas Díaz y Díaz, owners of the Cocina Económica de Doña Felícitas, are just as filled with the joy of life as their picture shows them.  Doña Feli's wonderful laugh boomed out across the fonda as Don Joel regaled us with old family stories.

    Guisados en el Comal
    Doña Feli's guisados (similar to stews) wait for customers.  Clockwise from seven o'clock: caldo de pollo (chicken soup), frijolitos (beans), carne de res en chile negro (beef in black chile), and sopa de albóndigas (meatball soup).  The small blue pot in the middle is hot water.  Don Joel mentioned that his wife never uses lard in her cooking; it's always done with vegetable oil.

    Plato de Caldo de Pollo
    Doña Feli's delicious, freshly prepared caldo de pollo contains a whole chicken thigh, a piece of corn on the cob, carrots, chayote, tomato, rice, and garbanzos.  All of Doña Feli's tortillas are hand-made as you eat.

    Doña Feli started learning to cook from her mother.  She'd never worked outside her home until so many people begged her to open a restaurant that she finally agreed.  Don Joel said, "All our married life her wonderful food has just been for the family and our guests.  Now it's for everyone!" 

    She prepares just enough of her marvelous guisados to serve during any given day.  Nothing other than the pot of beans is held over to be served the next day.  And, as Don Joel said, "Beans only get better after a day or two."

    Marisol y Mirna
    In the kitchen: Mirna (left, 18) and Marisol (right, 19), Don Joel and Doña Feli's smart, attentive, and beautiful daughters.

    The fonda is open daily from 7:00AM until 5:00PM.  Don Joel said, "We four–my wife, myself, and our daughters–work as a team to make this business go.  Each of us has a role to play.  Our daughters serve the tables, I keep the customers happy with my chatter, and my wife–well, without her cooking we'd have to close up!  She's the heart of it all, she has the sazón (personal flavor, every fine cook's special touch) that keeps you coming back for more."

    Open for just a year and a half, the fonda has plenty of regular customers.  For 45 pesos (less than $3.50USD), the little restaurant fills your plate and makes sure you go away satisfied.  Even more than filling your plate, the owners fill your heart.  Don Joel assured us that even though we were paying customers, we were also members of the family.  This was no empty promise; we felt more than welcomed and left knowing we'd be back soon for another serving of comida (the main meal of the day) and affectionate conversation.

    Plato de Res con Chile Negro
    Carne de res en chile negro (beef in black sauce), frijolitos, and arroz blanco (white rice) were absolutely delicious.

    Doña Feli gave us a quick recipe for her rightly famous salsa de chile negro.  "You have to be very careful, because it's easy for the sauce to come out really bitter.  First you clean the chiles (in this case, chile chilaca) by wiping them with a towel.  You don't roast or peel them.  Cut them up and sauté them in a little oil, along with garlic, cloves, three or four peppercorns, and a large cut-up green pepper.  Last, add some toasted sesame seeds.  Then roast three ripe red tomatoes, add them to the pot, and sauté a while longer.  Add three more fresh tomatoes that you haven't roasted.  When it looks right, put it all in your licuadora (blender) till it's smooth.  Add salt to your taste.  That's all there is to it."

    Huitlacoche
    Downstairs in the market, vendors are currently selling seasonal huitlacoche (corn fungus).

    Pig Ear Mushrooms
    The bright orange oreja de puerco (pig ear) wild mushroom is also in season.

    Jocoque
    A lácteos (milk products) vendor offered rich jocoque(a fermented semi-acid cream) from this olla de barro (clay pot).

    Puesto de Todo
    Several of the booths at the Mercado Santo Niño sell a little bit of lots of items–this vendor offers red or white eggs, at least three kinds of dried, beans, rice, milk, oil, laundry soap, baby formula, two or three kinds of pot scrubbers, dried chiles, and a hundred other things.

    If You Go:
    Mercado Nicolás Bravo (del Santo Niño)
    Calle Nicolás Bravo between Calle Corregidora and Calle Guerrero
    Morelia, Michoacán

    Breaking News!
    David Leite, one of the best food writers around, has published a brand new book: The New Portuguese Table (Clarkson Potter).  Beautifully written, filled with glorious photographs and fascinating stories, the book belongs on your cookbook shelf.  Better, yet, the book–well used, smeared and spattered from your Portuguese culinary adventures–belongs on your kitchen counter!  Click on the book cover (left-hand sidebar) and order a copy today.  Like me, you'll be thrilled with The New Portuguese Table

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Mexico in All Its Glory: Sights Along the Way

    Mojiganga 3
    Mojiganga (10-foot high papel maché dance figure), San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, March 2009.

    Ferris Wheel, Cuanajo
    Rueda de la fortuna (ferris wheel), Cuanajo, Michoacán, September 2008.

    Santo Domingo Church, San Cristóbal de las Casas
    Templo Santo Domingo, San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, October 2006.

    Turkey Trot
    Guajolotes callejeros (turkeys in the street), San José de las Torres, Michoacán, October 2008.

    Cargados
    Burrita y su dueño cargados (loaded donkey and its owner) with corn stalks, Ajijic, Jalisco, September 2005.

    Trajineras
    Trajineras (traditional boats), Xochimilco, December 2008.

    Casa San Cristóbal
    Casa particular (private home) with bougainvillea, San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas, February 2008.

    Protect and Serve
    Tourist police at Parque Alameda Central, Mexico City, December 2008.

    Pajaro de la Suerte
    Pájaro de la suerte (fortune telling canary), Morelia, Michoacán, October 2008.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Música Purhépecha::Purhépecha Music with Orquesta Janintserakua

    Poster Chilchota
    Poster advertising the P'urhepecha New Year celebrations in the city of Chilchota, Michoacán.  Orquesta Janintserakua played at the festival.

    Since the days before written history and since long before the 16th Century Spanish conquest of what is now Mexico, the Purhépecha indigenous people of Michoacán have had a profound impact on all things cultural in the region.  Traditional Purhépecha textiles, clay work, metalwork, wood carving, dance, and music continue to be part of Michoacán's daily 21st Century life. 

    Pirekuas Orquesta Entera
    Orquesta Janintserakua of Morelia, Michoacán, onstage at the Auditorio del Centro Cultural Universitario.

    The Orquesta Janintserakua, founded in 2003 by Juan Carlos Guerrero Jerónimo, is active in promoting the traditional pirékuas, sones abajeños and sones Purhépecha abajeños native to the Purhépecha of Michoacán.  The orchestra takes pride in its strong musical presence both in the city of Morelia and in outlying towns across the state.

    Comadres Patzcuaro
    Old friends share gossip and a laugh at the Mercado Municipal in Pátzcuaro.

    Music among the Purhépecha is an integral part of community life, both secular and religious.   Pirékuas are most often highly romantic love songs, written and sung to woo a girl or to celebrate a couple's love.  Sones, whether sones Purhépechas or sones Purhépecha abajeños, are generally lively dance tunes.  Sones Purhépechas come from or are written about Michoacán's Zona Lacustre (lake zone) near beautiful Lago
    de Pátzcuaro
    (Lake Pátzcuaro), or from the Meseta Purhépecha (the Purhépecha tablelands), in the foothills of nearby mountains.  Sones Purhépecha abajeños originate in Michoacán's lowlands–the Tierra Caliente (Hot Lands).

    Pirekua Cello, Bass, 2nd Violins
    Oswaldo Rivas Sánchez, cellist, Danilo Gallardo Riveros on bass, Cristián Yaird Ponce Villanova and Victor Alfonso Zaragoza Rosales, both playing second violin.  Hidden in the photo are other members of the Orquesta Janintserakua María Cristina Soria Pérez (saxophone), Juan Carlos Zamudio Anastasio (trumpet), and Carlos Campos Ramírez (trombone).

    Mascara Viejitos Patzcuaro
    This iconic mask of the Purhépecha Danza de los Viejitos (Dance of the Little Old Men) is for sale in the Pátzcuaro market.

    Some composers, especially Maestro Nicolás Bartolo Juárez, have also written sones purhépechas as anthems to the glories of nature. 
    For example, Maestro Bartolo composed a son purhépecha for each one of the six islands of  Lago
    de Pátzcuaro
    (Lake Pátzcuaro): Janitzio, La Pacanda, Jarácuaro, Yunuén, Tecuena,
    and Urandén.

    Among the most noted composers in the region are José María Ponce Martínez, Salvador Próspero Román, Francisco Salmerón Equihua, Eusebio González Tomás, Primitivo Alcántar Alejandre, José Alfredo Barrera Próspero, and Francisco Mercado Zacarías.  All were or are prolific in various genres: vals, pirkékua, polkas, and sones.

    Pirekuas Jose Luis y Patricia
    Sara Patricia Ballesteros Lugo and José Luis Patlán Montero, first violins.

    Juan Carlos Guerrero Jerónimo, the young director of Orquesta Janintserakua, spent his childhood and adolescence in his parents' Michoacán home town, Cherán.  Beginning at age 11, he studied voice and violin with Maestro Francisco Mercado Zacarías in the Brigada de Desarrollo Indigena No. 15.  At 15, he entered Morelia's Escuela Popular de Bellas Artes de la Universidad Michoacana de San Nicolás de Hidalgo, completing a Licenciatura en Música (similar to a bachelor's degree) with a specialty in composition. 

    In addition to composition, he has also studied directing techniques, clarinet, and saxophone.  Only 37 years old, he has formed and played in several important musical groups.  In 2003, he founded the Orquesta Janintserakua for the express purpose of preserving the musical works of Purhépecha composers.

    Pirekua Group Zacan
    P'urhepecha orchestra in ropa típica (native dress) in Zacán, Michoacán.

    The Orquesta Janintserakua is an important force in preserving the cultural heritage of more than a century of regional composers.  Traditional regional music could easily be muscled out in present-day Michoacán by modern ranchera, banda, and grupero music. 

    Pirekua Maestro, Clarinete, y Jose Luis
    José Luis Patlán, first violin: Monserrat Viridiana Magaña Arriaga, first clarinet; and Maestro Juan Carlos Guerrero Jerónimo, second clarinet and director of the Orquesta Janintserakua.

    In 2008, the Centro de Investigación de la Cultura Purhépecha de la Universidad Michoacana de San Nicolás de Hidalgo produced and published Volumes 9 and 10 of the Antología de la Música Purhépecha (Anthology of Purhépecha Music), featuring Orquesta Janintserakua and Orquesta Tiamu Uricha.  On the double-volume CD, both orchestras play the sones Purhépechas and the sones abajeños composed by Maestro Salvador Ramírez Várgas from the village of San Felipe de los Herreros, Michoacán.  In the near future, Volumes 14 and 15 of the Antología de la Música Purhépecha will again feature music by Maestro Ramírez.

    Viejita con Flores
    This elderly Purhépecha woman sells dried corn husks and alcatraces (calla lilies) on the street.

    Maestro Ramírez was born in 1920 in Uruapan, where his family lived due to exigencies created by the Mexican Revolution of 1910.  The family returned to San Felipe in 1930.  Just a few years later, young Salvador joined his brother and other musicians in forming Orquesta Los Ramírez, which soon became sought after as one of the best of the region.  Today, the Orquesta Los Ramírez is known as Orquesta Tiamu Uricha.

    During his more than 70-year career as a composter and musician, Maestro Ramírez composed literally hundreds of sones and sones abajeños PurhépechaMexico Cooks! was privileged to be present at the  concert in Morelia's Teatro Ocampo, where Maestro Ramírez received copies of Volume 9 and 10 of the recording of his music, produced by the university.  Soon after that concert in his honor, Maestro Ramírez passed away and was buried in San Felipe los Herreros.

    Pirekuas Oboe, Clarinet, Flute
    Carlos Antonio Campos Araiza, oboe; Monserrat Magaña, clarinet; Sofía Ivette Campos Araiza, transverse flute.

    Traditional Cups Green and Black
    Traditional Purhépecha pottery from Tzintzuntzan.

    Orquesta Janintserakua's members are primarily young musicians from Morelia's Escuela de Bellas Artes,
    although several members are also members of the Orquesta Sinfónica de
    Michoacán, which has its seat in Morelia.  The orchestra takes
    Michoacán's regional Purhépecha music wherever it's requested: to
    regional town fiestas, to the state capital, and to outlying
    districts.  Its main goal is to spread the knowledge and enjoyment of this highly
    idiosyncratic musical form.

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  • Boulevard de Tortas Ahogadas: Morelia’s Homage to A Guadalajara Sandwich

    Waiter on the Run
    A waiter at Morelia's Tortas Ahogadas Guadalajara restaurant, on the run with a tray full of delicious tortas and tacos ahogados for hungry customers.

    Mexico Cooks! lives in a beautiful and primarily residential neighborhood of Morelia, Michoacán.  However, just down our street and around a couple of corners is a wide street lined on both sides with small businesses.  On Wednesdays, our weekly tianguis (street market) sets up in a plaza on the west side of that street.  A wonderful La Michoacana ice cream store is next to the market, along with an upholsterer, a small discount pharmacy, a stained glass maker, an upscale kitchen design center, a shoe store or two, and several take-out food shops.

    Tortas El Chile 4 Use for MC
    The torta ahogada from Tortas Ahogadas "El Chile".

    Best of all, this street is home to at least three–or four, or maybe more–open-air restaurants that specialize in tortas ahogadas, the signature 'drowned' sandwich from Guadalajara.  The torta ahogada is a like a French dip sandwich gone crazy.  The restaurant-lined boulevard is affectionately known as el boulevard de la torta (Sandwich Row).  Every restaurant is popular and every diner has his or her favorite torta: this bread is more 'authentic', that sauce has more chispa (spark), the outside edges of this pork filling are crisper.  It's the kind of debate that creates conversation and friendly argument for years, not unlike the debate over thin versus thick crust pizza, Coke versus Pepsi, and soft-serve versus scooped ice cream.

    Tortas El Chile 5 Use for MC
    Tortas Ahogadas "El Chile" opened about six months ago.  The afternoon we were there, our table and two others had a total of six customers, although the restaurant seats about 50.  It's hard to be the new kid on the block. 

    Mexico Cooks!
    decided to take on the down-and-dirty job of taste-testing three of these tortas ahogadas joints.  As Judy pointed out, "It's in the name of research, you know.  It's a tough job, but somebody's got to do it."  To keep the taste-test fair, Judy got to order whatever she wanted, but I ordered the same style torta at each of the three restaurants.  We dined at each place at about three o'clock in the afternoon, prime time for the main meal of the day in Mexico.

    Tortas GDL 1 Use for MC
    Long lines, day after day after day, are the hallmark of Tortas Ahogadas Guadalajara.  This Morelia restaurant has been serving tortas ahogadas and little else for 17 years.  The restaurant seats about 150 people and has an equally busy second location just a few blocks away.

    The formula for a torta ahogada is simple: split open a crusty, densely crumbed birrote salado (sugarless white flour sandwich roll), fill it with lean chopped pork, thoroughly drench the sandwich with a tomato-y salsa picante (hot sauce), and top with thinly sliced pickled onions.  It's that easy, and it's that complex.  For starters, where does the restaurant get its bread?  It's almost impossible to find a real birrote salado outside Guadalajara.  Is the pork overcooked and mushy, is it tender with those crispy, caramelized edges, is it fatty?  Does the salsa have just the right amount of vinegar, just the right amount of chile de árbol, just the right amount of tomato?  Are the pickled onions white onions or red onions?  Restaurant rivalries are born from these differences, as are friendly debates over the merits of various tortas.

    Tortas GDL 8 Use for MC
    The torta ahogada at Tortas Ahogadas Guadalajara.

    Originally from Guadalajara and still served at carts, stands, and restaurants everywhere in that city, the quintessential torta ahogada is best eaten at Estadio Jalisco during a game of fútbol (soccer) while the sauce runs down your hands and arms.  Tapatíos (nickname for a Guadalajara resident) or not, people now snarf down tortas ahogadas all over Mexico.

    Tortas Jalisco Sign
    The sign at Ahogadas Jalisco reads, "Here and now and for many years, we are Ahogadas Jalisco, giving you, your family and your friends something different."  Ahogadas Jalisco seats about 80 people and has been in business for seven years.  It was jammed with customers the day Mexico Cooks! ate there.

    Anywhere you eat a torta ahogada, you ask for it brought to you at just the level of picante you like: 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, or muerta.  One-quarter means that the sauce for 'drowning' your sandwich is mostly very thin tomato sauce mixed with a quick hit of chile.  One-half means the sauce will be twice as hot as the 1/4.  Three-quarters…well, you get it.  Muerta means that your sauce will be 100% chile, no tomato.  Muerta
    means DEAD, and you might well be if you eat this and aren't accustomed
    to its substantially more than intense level of mouth heat.  For
    research purposes, I ordered mine media (half) and added more chile as required.

    Tortas Jalisco 1
    The torta ahogada at Ahogadas Jalisco.

    Here's a recipe:

    Torta Ahogada Estilo Guadalajara (Guadalajara Style 'Drowned' Sandwich)

    600 grams fresh ripe tomatoes
    50 grams chile de árbol
    pinch of pepper
    pinch of salt
    1 clove of garlic
    1 bay leaf
    Water
    2 whole cloves
    2 Tbsp white vinegar
    1 tsp oregano, preferably Mexican
    1 medium white onion, minced
    600 grams thinly sliced freshly made carnitas
    12 birrote salado or other small loaves of crusty, dense bread

    Thinly sliced pickled onions for garnish.

    Cook the tomatoes, minced onion, and garlic in water, until soft. Drain, reserving cooking liquid.  In a blender, blend until as smooth as possible.  Use cooking liquid to thin as necessary; the salsa should be quite thin.  Strain.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Reserve.

    Cook the chiles.  Add vinegar, oregano, cloves, and salt to taste.  In a blender, blend until very smooth.  Strain.  Reserve.

    Split open the birrotes, leaving the top and bottom halves hinged together.  Put each one on its serving plate (a shallow soup plate is the best).  Pack 100 grams of sliced carnitas into each birrote

    Ask each of your comensales (diners) how much picante he or she wants on the torta and custom-mix the chile you prepared with the reserved tomato sauce.  Douse the torta very liberally inside and out with the sauces your guests requested.  The sandwich should be soaked and swimming in sauce.  Garnish with pickled onions, and serve.

    Serve bowls of chile and bowls of thin tomato sauce on the side so your guests can add more of either.

    Serves six.

    Tortas Jalisco Muchachas
    These young Morelia beauties ordered tacos ahogados and shared a papa rellena (stuffed potato) at Ahogados Jalisco.  For an order of three tacos, the restaurant covers crisp-fried tacos de carnitas with tomato and chile sauce to your taste, then tops it all with shredded cabbage and pickled onions.

    All three restaurants are bargains.  A torta ahogada costs about 15 pesos, an order of three tacos ahogados costs about 18 pesos.  All of the restaurants offer soft drinks, beer, and aguas frescas at reasonable prices.  Some of the restaurants have specialties other than standard tortasFor example, El Chile has tortas y tacos ahogados de camarón (shrimp) on the menu and Ahogadas Jalisco sells addictive papas rellenas (baked potatoes stuffed with thin-sliced fried ham, melted cheese, and mustardy cream sauce and garnished with a chile toreado).

    Tortas Jalisco Papa
    The outstanding papa rellena (stuffed potato) at Ahogadas Jalisco.

    Just for you, Mexico Cooks! sacrificed herself on the altar of culinary research and ate tortas ahogadas for days, to the point that Judy laughingly said the next stop was Peptobismolandia.  Which tortas were the best? 

    We loved the tortas at Tortas Ahogadas Guadalajara for several reasons: the delicious, crisp-along-the-edges meat, the marvelous flavors of the sauce, the ambiance (including the recorded music), at the jumping restaurant, the attentive service.  The bread at Ahogadas Jalisco was the best, the tacos ahogados were great, and we swooned over the papa rellena.  The owner at Tortas Ahogadas El Chile was completely accommodating and trying his best to succeed, but his restaurant has a hard act to follow: it's right across the street from Tortas Ahogadas Guadalajara, the major player on el boulevard de la torta.  You'll have to visit Morelia and try them all yourselves!

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  • Simposio de Quelites en la UNAM :: Symposium on Wild and Cultivated Mexican Greens at the UNAM

    Quelites Poster MC 1
    Mexico Cooks! attended the July 1, 2009, Simposio de Los Quelites (Symposium of Wild and Cultivated Mexican Greens) at the Jardín Botánico (Botanical Garden) of the UNAM (National Autonomous University) in Mexico City.  The day-long symposium featured talks by scientists, chefs, nutritionists, and other members of Mexico City's culinary community.

    Quelites are the edible, tender, newly grown parts of wild (and in some instances, cultivated) plants.  Those tender parts include buds and flowers, shoots, and new leaves.  The name quelite comes from the Nahua word quili-tlQuelites that are commonly eaten today are verdolagas, guías de frijol, puntas de calabaza, papaloquelite, flor de pitahaya, guaje, pata de gallo, huihuila, quelite cenizo, and hoja santa.  Some quelites are eaten as vegetables and some are used like herbs, for flavor in a prepared dish.  Many are common, both in fields and markets, and some are quite rare.

    Quelites Javier Caballero hablando MC 2
    Dr. Javier Caballero, director of the Jardín Botánico, gave opening remarks about the history of research at the 50-year-old garden.  He celebrated not only the ongoing work at the research center, but also the part the center has played in the preservation and rescue of ancient Mexican greens.

    In the pre-Hispanic era in Mesoamerica, maíz (corn) was the king of plant food.  Corn's companions in the kitchen were chile and wild herbs, in addition to occasional wild game.  In his Codice Florentino, Fray Bernadino Sahagún documented this same diet that prevailed after the Spanish conquest and which, in many instances, continues to be the predominate diet.  Almost five hundred years post-conquest, maíz is still king in Mexico.

    Quelites Stage Display MC 3
    The stage display at the symposium featured both native Mexican quelites and vegetables that came to Mexico during and after the Spanish conquest.

    Quelites Codice MC 4
    Many of the speakers referred to the Spanish Franciscan Fray Bernardino de Sahagún and his exhaustive Codice Florentino, a compendium of 16th Century 12-volume Nahua, Spanish, and Latin writings accompanied by hand-drawn illustrations.  In the Codice, Sahagún described thousands upon thousands of details about indigenous life in Nueva España, including an entire volume about everyday and ritual foods.

    Quelites Edelmira Linares con Robert Bye MC 5
    Maestra Edelmira Linares and Dr. Robert Bye were both organizers and presenters at the symposium.  Their well-received talk covered the discussion of quelites in the Codice Florentino.  Dr. Bye and Maestra Linares stressed that Mexico eats all of its weeds; of the nearly 2000 species of quelites known to Fray Bernadino Sahagún, 500 are still used in Mexico's kitchens.

    Quelites Karen Dakin, Diana Kennedy MC 6
    Dra. Karen Dakin (left), noted UNAM linguist, and prominent chef and writer Diana Kennedy animatedly discussed Dra. Dakin's fascinating talk about the etymology of Nahua naming of various quelites.  In the afternoon session, Sra. Kennedy gave a delightfully informal talk about the quelites consumed in rural parts of Mexico.  Sra. Kennedy drew a laugh from the audience when she said, "Some of these dishes may be treasures in the pueblos where they're made, but not all of them are to my liking."

    Quelites Nombres Karen Dakin MC 7
    Dra. Dakin stressed that the 'why' of words–how they are formed, what their roots are–is as important as their definitions.  This slide from her fascinating talk shows that the Nahua word ayoh-yaca-quili-tl (guía de calabaza [squash vine tendrils]) comes from ayoh (calabaza=squash), yaca (point, or nariz=nose–the part that goes out in front), and quili-tl (green vegetable).  A later speaker pointed out that right up to the present day, children running ahead of of a group of adults–like a squash vine's tendrils running out in front of the main vines–are sometimes called narices (noses).  Another speaker, Maestra Jiapsy Arias, pointed out that the Codice Florentino contains nearly triple the amount of information in Nahua as it does in Spanish.

    Degustación 3 Berros
    Berros con elotes y crema (watercress cooked and served with corn kernels and cream).

    Mid-afternoon at the symposium was devoted to what was touted to be a muestra de gastronomía y degustación: a food demonstration and tasting.  Mexico Cooks! and the rest of the assembled assumed that the degustación would include small tastes of a variety of edible plants.  Some people (names deleted to protect the guilty) actually thought we'd best plan to have our comida (the main meal of the day) elsewhere: these weeds would never sustain us through the rest of the day!  We were so wrong.

    Degustación 2 Pechuga de Pato
    Rollitos de pechuga de pato con quelites (little rolls of duck breast with quelites).  These tidbits were simply fantastic: the flavors of the delicate breast of duck, the deep green quelites, and the pepitas combined to be more than the sum of their parts.

    The group of chefs in charge of the degustación prepared so many beautiful and delicious dishes that it seemed we were in the presence of a latter-day loaves and fishes miracle.  Nearly 150 people ate until we were all but comatose. 

    Degustación 4 Tamalito de Quelites Ricardo Muñoz
    Tamalitos de quelites con queso (little tamales with quelites and cheese), from Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's magnificent on-campus Restaurante Azul y Oro at the UNAM.

    Degustación 6 Huauzontle con Questo
    Rollos capeados de huauzontle con queso de cabra (Rolls of huauzontle and goat cheese).

    The flavors of every dish were superb.  Mexico Cooks! is hard-pressed to say which of the many dishes were her favorites.  The rollitos de pechuga de pato were a revelation, as were the tamalitos de quelites from Restaurante Azul y Oro, as were the berros con elote y crema.

    Degustación 7 Jericalla de Quelites
    Jericalla de quelites con hojas de quelite, estrella de anís, y tres mieles (custard of quelites with cheese, star anise, and three kinds of honey).  These tiny custards, no more than an inch in diameter, were marvelous as prepared by Chef María Elena Lugo Zermeño of Mexico City and Querétaro.

    If pushed to the wall, however, I think I would have to choose–for sheer surprise and perfection–the jericalla de quelites (photo above).  The unexpected silky sweetness of the custard,
    the speck of crystalized leaf, the crackle of the star anise, and the drizzle of
    three honeys made this finale to our comida simply breathtaking.

    The symposium was an enormous WOW! from start to finish.  The organization, execution, and thoughtful details were absolutely tops.  It doesn't get much better than this.

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  • A Fresh Look at Mexico’s Tianguis (Street Markets)

    Pimiento Morrón Rojo y Amarillo
    Fresh from the fields, these gorgeous pimientos morrón rojo y amarillo (red and yellow sweet peppers) sell for about 60 pesos the kilo ($2.25 USD the pound) at the tianguis where Mexico Cooks! shops.

    Nearly two years ago, in August 2007, Mexico Cooks! featured every sort of produce, dairy product, and meat sold at a local tianguis (street market) near Guadalajara, Jalisco.  For the entire month of August 2008, you read about seasonal availability of fruits and vegetables at the dozens of regularly scheduled tianguis (it's the same word in singular and plural) in Morelia, Michoacán.  Mexico Cooks! would rather shop at a hot, crowded, and sometimes smelly tianguis than at an air conditioned supermarket, rather shop for supremely fresh foods at a tianguis than give a second glance to anything frozen, boxed, or canned that's offered for sale elsewhere.

    Como Lo Vio en TV
    A signmaker with a sense of humor stuck this tag on his fresh Roma tomatoes: "Like you saw it on TV".  These were offered at 14 pesos the kilo (about 50 cents US the pound).

    The tianguis, wherever in Mexico it's held, is a basic part of the culture of modern Mexico.   Its name comes from the Nauhatl word tianquiztli, market.  Although Nahuatl markets are centuries old, the present-day form of the tianguis is fairly recent, originating during the 1970-76 Mexican presidency of Luis Echeverría Alvarez.  The author of the tianguis project in Mexico was José Iturriaga, Echeverría's former finance minister.

    Xochimilco Calabaza y Camote
    Cooked in a sweet syrup, whole calabaza de castilla (squash, left), camote (sweet potato, right), and higos (figs, rear) are available at the tianguis by the kilo or portion of a kilo.  They're to be eaten for breakfast or supper.

    Although Iturriaga was himself a wealthy, educated, and cultured man, he worried about the ability of Mexico's poor to feed their families.  He was especially concerned about the availability of nutritious fresh foods sold at reasonable prices.  The tianguis, otherwise known as a mercado sobre ruedas (market on wheels), was his idea.  The government took charge of giving Mexico's working-class housewives and other food shoppers stupendous quality at the lowest possible prices.

    Cebollita de Cambray
    Beautiful cebollitas de cambray (knob onions), ready for serving with carne asada (grilled meat, usually accompanied by grilled whole onions like these.

    Still operated by local government, today's tianguis only sometimes reaches Iturriaga's ideal.  Often the produce can be second-rate, the meats and seafood far less than fresh, and the market's hygeine questionable–while prices are often as high or higher than the días de plaza (sale days) in upscale supermarkets.

    Higo
    Higos–figs, at the peak of maturity and ripeness–enjoy a relatively long season here in Mexico.  We recently paid 100 pesos for two kilos of beautifully ripe figs and prepared half a dozen jars of you-don't-want-to-know-how-good fig conserve.  Later this winter, spread on a toasted and buttered bolillo (small loaf of fresh-baked bread) from our tianguis, served over ice cream, or licked off the finger, the conserve will be an intense memory of summer.

    Mexico Cooks!
    is a regular customer at one of the better tianguis in Morelia.  Our tianguis, set up early Wednesday mornings, is quite near our house.  Our normal purchases include tortillas, bread, seafood, excellent pork ranging from maciza (fresh pork leg) to tocino (bacon), all of our fruits and vegetables, cheeses and cream, grains, and flowers for the house.  We don't eat much beef and prefer to buy raw chicken at a supermarket.

    Platanos
    Tiny plátanos dominico (finger bananas, about 2.5 inches long) are just one of the banana varieties we usually see at the tianguis.

    Prices at the Wednesday tianguis in our neighborhood, while not substantially lower than those at the supermarket, are still not higher than we care to pay.  We usually budget 400 pesos (about $30 USD) to buy what we need at the tianguis for a week's meals, including pork and sometimes shrimp.  We budget another 400 pesos for purchases at the supermarket. 

    On a recent Wednesday–when the refrigerator was bare of produce, as we had been out of the country for more than a week–these were our purchases:

    6 large fresh white onions
    1 huge cantaloupe
    4 big mangoes
    6 red-ripe tomatoes
    1/2 lb mushrooms
    1 big avocado
    2 large bananas
    1 large papaya
    1.5 lb fresh green beans
    8 h
    ot-out-of-the-oven bolillos
    Total cost: 150 pesos–the equivalent of about $11.00 USD.

    Tlayudas
    Stands offering prepared foods are always popular at any tianguis.  This woman at the Tianguis del Sol in Guadalajara is preparing hand made huaraches (a long, thick oval of corn masa (dough), similar to a tortilla, served with various toppings).

    Times and needs change.  Urban Mexico views the tianguis as both a terrible bother (who would want one on their street, with its attendant noise and mess) and a joy (but where else can we get produce this fresh!).  Mexico Cooks! knows people who will not shop at a tianguis, and we know people who will not shop anywhere else.  Come with us some Wednesday and see what you think.

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