Category: Tours

  • Dancing with Death :: José Guadalupe Posada and the History of the Catrina

    Catrina Posada Autoretrato
    José Guadalupe Posada, born in the state of Aguascalientes, Mexico, in early 1852, developed his skill as an artist into a career as the foremost political cartoonist of his era, regularly skewering the high and mighty of late 19th century Mexico with his engravings. His portrait (above), engraved by mid-20th century engraver Leopoldo Méndez, is a classic.

    Posada's satirical efforts started when he worked as a teenage apprentice in Aguascalientes.  His boss, José Trinidad Pedroza, assigned him the job of creating a finger-pointing cartoon depicting the misdeeds of a local politician.  His characterization was so successful that it created a tremendous hullabaloo in Aguascalientes; both Posada and Pedroza had to leave town in a hurry to avoid the politico's wrath.  When the tumult calmed down, the two printers returned to their work of exposing nefarious political goings-on.     

    Catrina Taller de Posada
    Posada, photographed around the turn of the 20th century, standing in the doorway of his Mexico City taller de grabado (engraving workshop).

    When Pedroza's Aguascalientes workplace was destroyed by a flood in 1888, Posada moved to Mexico City to open his own workshop.  After the move to the capital, Posada began publishing and distributing frequent volantes (flyers).  He used the medium to continue to puncture the egos and expose the foibles and serious crimes of government and social figures of the day.  During a time when many in Mexico were illiterate, the message of political cartoons could be easily understood even without reading the articles.  Many credit Posada with raising the political and social consciousness of the peón (common laborer), exposing social injustice at a time when most at that level were blind to it.

    Catrina First Drawing
    Posada's first published fashionably-hatted calavera (skull).  The cartoon is titled, "Big Sale of Grinning Skulls". Over the course of the rest of his career, it is estimated that the prolific Posada published as many as 20,000 political volantes, at a penny apiece, including many thousands that were illustrated by calaveras.

    What was Posada's purpose in utilizing a skeleton–albeit a well-dressed skeleton–to illustrate his articles?  Mexico's president/dictator at the time, Porfirio Díaz, idealized and aped all things French.  During his 30-year rule (1876-1910, known as the Porfiriato), Mexican government officials and high society alike dressed in the French mode, expressing what was known then and is known now as malinchismo: over-valuing foreign imports over Mexico's national products. The Frenchified calavera engraved by Posada is offered as a satirical portrait of those Mexican natives who, Posada felt, were aspiring to adopt European aristocratic traditions in Mexico's pre-revolutionary era. The irony of Posada’s drawing—a fabulously over-dressed skeleton—is that no matter what we’re wearing, we all end as bones.

    Catrina Posada El Jarabe
    El Jarabe en Ultratumba (Dancing Beyond the Grave).

    In Mexico, we play with, make fun of, and party with death. We throw our arms around her in a wickedly sardonic embrace and escape her return embrace with a zippy side-step, a wink, and a joke.  Every day is a dance with death.  Death is a woman who has a numerous affectionate and humorous nicknames: la Huesuda (the bony woman), la Seria (the serious woman), la Novia Fiel (the faithful bride), la Igualadora (the equalizer), la Dientona (the toothy woman), la Pelona (the bald woman), la Patrona (the boss lady), and a hundred more. She's always here, just around the next corner or right over there, behind that pillar.  She waits with patience, until later today or until twelve o'clock next Thursday, or till sometime next year–but when it's time, she's right there to dance away with you at her side.

    Catrinas (large) Torres_edited-1
    In the fairly recent past, Posada's pointed and politicized calavera became known as la catrina, a figure now closely related to Mexico's celebration of Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).  Renowned Michoacán-based painter and sculptor Juan Torres CalderónMexico Cooks! good friend, was the first to present Posada's catrina vision in clay.  In 1982, his wife, Velia Canals, began production of Maestro Torres' three-dimensional catrina designs.  Their workshop in Capula, Michoacán, is open for sales to the public.

    The Mexican word catrina–the word now used for any representation of Posada's original French-attired calavera–simply means a woman who is dressed to the nines.  Her male counterpart is known as a catrín—a handsome man, usually dressed in elegant male attire. Together, the couple are catrines.  Even today, if you go out to a formal event, your neighbor (seeing you leave the house) might well say, “Uff, qué catrina!” Unless you’re a man, of course, in which case the neighbor would say, “Qué catrín!”.

    Catrina Pa?tzcuaro Catrinas Papel Mache?_edited-1
    These catrines are made of paper maché.  On the far right, you see a bride and groom.  Mexico Cooks!' kitchen shows off this same artisan's chef figure, in a green chef's jacket and a high white toque.  Click on any photo to enlarge it for a better view.

    Catrina Panaderi?a Ortiz
    Some of the many Día de los Muertos figures displayed at the fabulous bakery Hornos de Los Ortíz, in Morelia, Michoacán.  The owner makes these gorgeous figures out of bread dough!  If you happen to be in Morelia in the next few weeks, DO NOT MISS this bakery and its annual display.  The owners, in a typical Mexican play on words, call the diorama a pan-teón: bread cemetery.

    Catrina Vestido Hojas de Ma?iz
    During the 2015 Noche de los Muertos events in Morelia's historic center, this young woman dressed in a skirt and hat made of totomoxtle (dried corn husks)–the husks normally used for making tamales.  Her mother made her outfit and painted her face.

    Catrina Maquillaje Nin?a
    During the last few years, many Mexican children and adults have begun to paint their faces for Día (and Noche) de Muertos.  The little girl in the chair lives in Opopeo, Michoacán, a small town not far from Morelia.  In the town square's bandstand, young people were designing a special face for each child who wanted one.

    Posada's century-old political calavera has evolved into one of Mexico's most beloved icons, the catrina.  When your friends ask you about her, be sure that they know the history behind this beautiful creature.  She's more than just a pretty face.

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  • Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809 in Morelia, Michoacán :: Happy First Anniversary!

    Consp Logo Bigger
    In English, the name of Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809 is, "The Plot of 1809"–plot as in spying, clandestine whispers, sneaking around, closed-door planning, state secrets, heroes, and Mexico's fight for independence.  See the upside-down crown at the base of the restaurant's logo (above)?  It's a clear sign that Spanish rule–the rule of the crown–was about to be overturned by the plotters.  And why is this important to Morelia, Michoacán?  Morelia is where the plotting started–the plot that would eventually bring about Mexico's independence from Spain.  Little clues all over the restaurant's interior let the diner in on the plot.  If you see something unusual while you're dining, ask what it means!  But shhhh…  All photos courtesy La Conspiración unless otherwise noted.

    Consp Exterior 1
    Located in the recently renovated Portal Allende, just behind and with a glorious view of Morelia's beautiful cathedral, La Conspiración offers the diner a choice of under-roof outdoor seating or seating in the elegant indoor rooms.  The owners closely monitor the entire ambience, ensuring that a client's time at the restaurant is quiet, relaxing, and filled with delight.  

    Consp Catedral de Noche 1
    In the evening, when you're relaxing at La Conspiración outside under the portales (arches), you can easily see the sky-high towers and the blue dome of the Cathedral–illuminated by soft white lighting, the lovely view will take your breath away.  Photo Mexico Cooks!.

    Let's talk just a little about the history of Mexico's independence from Spain–then I promise we'll talk about what's on the menu for you at La Conspiración.

    Consp Heroes de la Independencia
    Just a few of the most important conspirators in the fight for Mexico's independence.  At bottom right, wearing a white headscarf, is José María Morelos y Pavón, one of the first conspirators to join the plot.  The city of Morelia, originally named Valladolid, was renamed "Morelia" in 1828, to honor his heroism during the struggle for freedom from the rule of Spain.

    In September of 1809, in Valladolid (today known as Morelia), Michoacán, several people, including military man José Mariano Michelena, several other men born in Nueva España of Spanish parents, including a priest and a monk, began a secret movement with the goal of overthrowing the Spanish government of the country we now know as Mexico.  Among other plans, they infiltrated a meeting of indigenous people in case it were necessary to take up arms against the Spanish, even though the preference was a peaceful takeover.

    The plot was discovered on December 21, 1809 and the members were imprisoned.  Nevertheless, their influence had spread roots in the states of Querétaro and Guanajuato.  In San Miguel el Grande, Guanajuato, Admiral Ignacio Allende, Father Miguel Hidalgo, and Miguel Domínguez and his wife, Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez, continued to work to plot the fight for independence from Spain.  On September 15, 1810, Father Hidalgo gave the cry for independence on the steps of the church of Nuestra Señora de Dolores, in what is today the city called Dolores Hidalgo, in Mexico's state of Guanajuato.

    Hidalgo con Estandar
    Father Hidalgo with the Estandarte de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, the banner with which he led the insurgents during the fight for independence.

    In 1821, Spain and "Nueva España" signed the Treaty of Córdoba, ending Spain's rule over Nueva España (now Mexico).

    Consp Personal 1
    Expect to see your attentive wait staff in elegant vintage-style uniforms at Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809.  No detail has been overlooked: from staff uniforms to bar ware to unique copper bathroom fixtures, you can count on chef Martínez and Sr. González to give you the best.

    Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809 opened on October 20, 2017, exactly one year ago today.  Cynthia Martínez Becerril, the owner/chef, and her front-of-the-house partner Roberto González, head the restaurant and form an anchor in Portal Allende.  The restaurant, open every day from 12:00 noon until midnight, offers cozy, quiet dining in a truly elegant setting, a setting where you can go in casual clothing or your best gala dress, where you can enjoy live music (even on the sidewalk) vetted by the owners, and where the food is traditional, or inventive, or bar-style, but inevitably marvelous.  Everything from the courtesy-of-the-house shot glass of spicy, tangy shrimp broth to
    the over-the-top desserts will delight your palate.

    Consp Bar and Tenders
    The beautiful bar, fully stocked with just about anything you might like to drink, welcomes you to La Conspiración.

    Consp Mural Privado 1
    Planning a private dinner party?  Imagine yourself and your guests in this room, surrounded by the luxury of a hand-painted tropical mural.

    Consp Machitos
    An appetizer of machitos Michoacán style to share–traditionally made of beef small intestine–served with salsa borracha (literally "drunken" sauce–made with beer) and just-made guacamole.  

    Consp Sopa Tarasca

    Sopa Tarasca, a classic soup from Michoacán's kitchen, is based on a recipe from Morelia's longtime chef, Sra. Livier Ruíz.  It's topped with drizzles of Mexican table cream, fried tortilla strips, and fried black chiles.  This superb version is bean-based, while another equally excellent version is not.  Both versions are traditional to Michoacán.

    Consp Crema de Ajos
    Cream of roasted garlic soup, served with dehydrated jamón de serrano (thinly sliced crisp Spanish-style ham), crunchy tomato, and a delicious crouton of pan de agua.  

    Consp Pasta con Mole
    House-made mole with pasta: chef Cynthia's creation, and one that I thought might be an extremely unlikely combination of two worlds.  The truth is, this dish works to satisfy you in a deep way that you'll really love. 

    Consp Chamorro
    Long-cooked chamorro (pork shank), big and meaty and served in a richly spiced sauce.  Accompanied by steamed rice and refried black beans.  

    Consp Rib Eye con Alcaparras y Papas Gajo con Ensalada
    Ribeye steak, broiled to your taste, with capers and potato wedges, plus a small salad.

    Consp Uchepos
    Uchepos de nata are Michoacán's fresh corn tamales. These are served with Mexican table cream, queso fresco (a crumbly fresh cheese), and molcajete-made salsa–or if you prefer, a salsa de chile poblano (poblano chile sauce).

    Consp Nieves
    For dessert, a basket of house-made peanut marzipan ice cream with fresh seasonal fruits grown in Michoacán, one of Mexico's primary producers of strawberries, blackberries, and red raspberries.

    Consp Concha con Natas
    Last but not least, the completely outrageous and exquisitely sinful concha con natas, served with ice cream and English-style custard, and topped with a lacy, decorative, burned tortilla.  If you've had a full meal, you might want to consider sharing this extraordinary delicacy with your dinner companion.  But order it, you won't regret it.  Photo courtesy Mexico Cooks!.  

    Provecho!
      (Mexico's bon appetit!)

    Consp Staff Cocina
    Chef Cynthia Martínez (front, center) and part of the restaurant staff.  Happy anniversary to the whole team at La Conspiración!  May you have a joyous day and many more to come.

    Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809
    Portal Allende 209
    Centro Histórico
    Morelia, Michoacán 58000
    Cell: 014431580443
    Landline: 4436906820 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Mexico’s Michelada :: Based on Beer, Flavored to Perfection, and a Sure Cure for your Hangover–Have One for Breakfast

    Michelada 1
    A perfect michelada, rimmed with Tajín and topped with crunchy fresh cucumber.  Spicy, salty, beery, umami-rich, and completely refreshing.  

    Here in Mexico–everywhere in Mexico!–the single most popular beer drink is the michelada. Its ingredients, always based on beer, depend on the bartender, the part of the country one is in, or on one's personal taste.  A michelada is an any-time, any-season drink.

    We see fútbol (soccer) stadiums full of people slugging down liters of stadium-prepared micheladas, parties at home where no other alcoholic beverage is served, and restaurant tables full of people slurping them down along with their barbacoa, carne asada, or pozole–or accompanying a hamburger and fries, or a salad.  The michelada goes with just about any sort of food.  Popular wisdom also knows it as a super hangover cure, so hey–beer for breakfast in your hour of need?  Join the crowd.  Why not, just this once?

    Michelada Corona
    The primary ingredient of any michelada is beer.  Most people prefer a light-colored lager, but once in a while someone will order a michelada made with dark beer. Corona is just one option; any light-colored lager will do. First and foremost is to use the lager you prefer: Corona, Pacifico, Modelo, or any other. And your beer doesn't even have to be made in Mexico; use what you like. Photo courtesy Corona.

    The seasonings in a michelada typically include either Clamato, V8, or plain tomato juice, plus Worcestershire sauce, a very hot bottled salsa like Valentina, Cholula, Yucateca, or any of dozens on the grocer's shelf, salt—lots of salt—powdered chile, the umami-heavy seasoning liquid called Maggi, and freshly-squeezed jugo de limón (the juice of a key lime). 

    Michelada Tajin
    Rim a frosted pint mug or glass with powdered Tajín (a commercial mix of powdered dry chile, limón flavoring, and salt).  You can find Tajín in almost any supermarket. There are imitators, but if you can find Tajín, it's the best.  Photo courtesy Tajín.

    Now add the rest of the ingredients.  Here's a recipe to get you started; experiment with micheladas till the flavor blend is exactly the way you like it.

    Micheladas a la mexicana

    • light-colored lager beer of your choice
    • Clamato or V8 or tomato juice
    • 3 or 4 splashes hot sauce, more or less to taste.  Try Valentina, or Cholula, or use your favorite.
    • 2 splashes of Worcestershire sauce
    • 2 splashes of Maggi sauce 
    • Juice of one lime

      Fill the glass about ¼ to ? with the Clamato juice. Add the hot sauce, the lime juice, the Worcestershire sauce, and the soy sauce. If you used Tajín to salt the rim, pour any excess from the plate into the glass.  Fill the rest with cold beer and top off your micheladas with sticks of celery or jícama, skewers of shrimp or olives, half-moons of cucumber, freshly-cooked octopus–really, anything within the limits of your imagination.  And for good measure, add another splash of Maggi. 

    Michelada clamato
    Clamato contains water, tomato concentrate, high fructose corn syrup, MSG, salt, citric acid, onion powder, celery seed, garlic powder, dried clam broth, unspecified spices, vinegar, natural flavors, food coloring, and ascorbic acid to maintain color.  Photo courtesy Clamato.

    Michelada V8

    V8 juice contains a blend of reconstituted vegetable juices including tomatoes, carrots, celery, beets, parsley, lettuce, watercress, and spinach, plus a tiny percentage of salt, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and natural flavoring. Photo courtesy V8.

    Michelada Campbells Tomato Juice
    Campbell's tomato juice contains tomato juice from concentrate, potassium chloride, ascorbic acid, citric acid, salt, malic acid, and other flavorings.  Photo courtesy Campbell's.

    Michelada Worcestershire Sauce
    In the United States, the ingredients in Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce are: distilled white vinegar, molasses, sugar, water, salt, onions, anchovies, garlic, cloves, tamarind extract, natural flavorings, and chili pepper extract.  Anchovies–did you know that?  Photo courtesy Lee & Perrins.

    Michelada Valentina--4-Lt
    Valentina is arguably Mexico's best-known bottled salsa. The photo shows the four liter bottle–nearly a gallon! That size should keep you in micheladas for quite a while. If you'd prefer a smaller bottle, you can buy Valentina, either hot or extra-hot, in a 12.5 ounce size.  The ingredients are water, chile peppers, vinegar, salt, spices and sodium benzoate (as a preservative). The taste can be described as a citrus flavor, with a nicely spicy aftertaste. Photo courtesy Valentina.

    Michelada Maggi
    If you're not already using Maggi for cooking, look for it until you find it for your micheladas.  Of Swiss origin, Maggi is ubiquitous, literally a global phenomenon, used all over the world to add an extra touch of taste to savory recipes.  It's indispensable in a michelada, bringing the utmost in umami to the drink.  Your micheladas will be pale in flavor without it.  Ingredients vary by country; if you have an MSG sensitivity, be sure to look for it in the ingredients list.  Some countries' Maggi have it, some don't.  Photo courtesy Maggi.

    Limo?n criollo
    Finally, the taste of freshly squeezed jugo de limón (juice from the key lime) will brighten up your michelada in a way that regular lime juice won't.  You'll find limones in many supermarkets and Latin specialty markets.  The juice of one limón per liter of michelada is the ratio you want.  Mexico Cooks! photo. 

    The name michelada is said to be made of three words: 'mi' (my) 'chela' (a popular nickname for any beer) and 'helada' (icy cold). How many micheladas are consumed in Mexico every year?  Untold millions!  Do your part to keep the numbers up!

    Salud!  (To your health!)

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • GIANT ALEBRIJES In Mexico City’s Streets :: The Stuff of Dreams

    This article, originally published in 2011, is well worth repeating today.  The 12th annual Desfile de Alebrijes Monumentales (Giant Alebrijes Parade) will take place on October 20, 2018, starting at 12:00 noon.  This year's parade expects more than 200 entries; it will kick off at the Zócalo in Mexico City's Centro Histórico and wend its way through downtown until it arrives on Paseo de la Reforma, ending at the Ángel de la Independencia.  If you'll be in Mexico City, don't miss it! 

    Alebrijes Angel de la Independencia
    Mexico City's iconic Ángel de la Independencia, nearly 43 meters high (that's 140 feet, for you who are metrically-challenged) is known all over the Distrito Federal simply as 'El Ángel'.  Need a place to meet your friends to head for the Zona Rosa? "Nos vemos en el Ángel a las once…" ('see you at the Angel at eleven o'clock…').  For a good idea of the size of just the Ángel, look at the man standing near the right-hand corner of the railing–and consider that the platform is very, very high up on the column!

    Alebrijes Hipnóptera
    The fifth annual exhibit of alebrijes monumentales (monumentally-sized alebrijes) started just at the Ángel, in October 2011.  This one is called Hipnóptera.

    Alebrijes Pedrito
    Very much in the style of Pedro Linares, this giant and quite happy alebrije exhibited along Paseo de la Reforma is called Pedrito (little Pedro).  No fear–in spite of his sharp teeth, he won't bite!

    The alebrije, created originally by 20th century Mexico City papel maché (paper maché) artisan don Pedro Linares, has become part of Mexico's mythology.  If the creatures appear to be the stuff of nightmares, they in fact are just that: in the mid-1930s, sick and hallucinating with a high fever, Linares dreamed that these fantastical creatures surrounded him and heard them calling out their hitherto nonsense-syllable name: alebrijes, alebrijes, alebrijes.  When his health improved, he began making the figures in his media, paper maché and cardboard.

    Alebrijes Pescando Soles de Mireya Carrera
    This towering two-headed, four-armed creature with wings is called Pescando Soles.  I spoke to the man standing at the right of the photo; he is close to six feet tall.  That should give you an idea of the size of this giant.  

    Alebrijes Mireya Carrera
    Artist Mireya Carrera Bolaños smiles for the camera in front of her creation called Pescando Soles, which won an honorable mention in the competition.

    Even though Sr. Linares originated the genre of alebrijes based on his fevered dreams, and even though his family continues to produce them in Mexico City, the alebrije name has passed into common usage for any fantastical creature made in the Linares style or a style that is similar.  In Mexico City and the surrounding area, most alebrijes are made of paper maché and cardboard; this work is called cartonería.  However, in the state of Oaxaca (and most famously by the artisan workshop headed by Jacobo and María Ángeles in the town of San Martín Tilcajete), alebrijes are carved from copal wood and are made in the shape of animals, both realistic and mythical.  Each genre is very different from the other.

    Alebrijes Ponte Almeja Diablo
    Ponte Almeja, a horned devil figure, sports a green tail covered with pre-Hispanic symbols.

    Alebrijes Paseo de la Reforma Domingo
    The alebrijes exhibit started on a Sunday, which is always family day on Paseo de la Reforma.  Every Sunday the divided wide boulevard is closed to all motorized traffic and is taken over by throngs of bicycles, tricycles, scooters, runners, walkers, children, and stroller-pushing parents.  Vendors–of everything from food, toys, lucha libre masks (Mexican-style wrestling), bubble machines, pink and lavender cotton candy, and other non-essentials–line the sidewalks on both sides of Reforma.

    Alebrijes Lucha Libre Vendedor de Máscaras
    Lucha libre mask vendor.  You only wish it were Mexico Cooks! behind that marvelous mask!

    Alebrijes Como Hacer Un Alebrije Monumental
    This artist crafted a stack of monumentally-sized paper maché books between the feet of his giant alebrije.  The title of the blue book in the middle of the stack is "Como Hacer Un Alebrije Monumental en Dos Semanas" ("How to Make a Monumental Alebrije in Two Weeks").

    Alebrijes Detalle Dientes
    A toothy paper maché smile.  This one looks much fiercer than Pedrito!

    Alebrijes Michtic Gracioso
    This wildly colorful dragon called Michtic (Gracioso) has its tail in its mouth, ready to go for a spin.

    Alebrijes Ecofloon
    The head of the Ecofloon–part giraffe, part reindeer, part bird-beak, and 100% alebrije.

    Alebrijes Pez-ame Pezdilla
    P-ezme Pezcadilla.  The invented names of the creatures are as fanciful as their paint jobs.

    Alebrijes Detalle Bolitas
    Detail of paper maché bolitas (little balls) and wonderful design.

    Alebrijes Ojo Te Estoy Viendo
    I've got my eye on you…

    Alebrijes a Diana la Cazadora
    The end of the three-block exhibition of alebrijes: the fountain and glorieta (traffic circle) of Diana la Cazadora (Diana the Huntress).  Click to enlarge the photo for a better view of her with her bow and arrow.  In the background, the Hotel St. Regis.

    After the weekend-long alebrijes exhibition along Paseo de la Reforma, the figures were trundled over to Mexico City's Centro Hístorico for a week in the Zócalo (central plaza), a fittingly monumental site for the 2011 crop of monumental alebrijes.  We can hardly wait till the 2012 exhibit–come join us!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Flowers, Food, and Wonderful Signs :: Mexico City’s Mercado de Jamaica

    Mercado de Jamaica John Woods
    The exterior of Mexico City's Mercado de Jamaica.  As is true in most Mexican markets, you'll find everything from fresh figs to duct tape, from a haircut to a great midday meal: in other words, exactly what you're looking for.  However, this particular market specializes in wholesale flowers.  In addition to its hodgepodge of everything under the sun, the vendors here sell literally millions and millions of flowers every single day.  Photo courtesy John Woods.

    Mercado de Jamaica Nuns
    Nuns buying flowers for their convent.  Approximately 80% of the flowers at the market are grown in the State of Mexico, which is separate from but almost completely surrounds Mexico City.  In the State of Mexico, flower growing generates a yearly economic bounty of $2,700,000,000 pesos: two billion seven hundred million, folks. It's not a typo. 

    Flores Mercado de Jamaica 1
    A few of the literally millions of beautiful blooms available at either wholesale or retail prices at the market.

    Freesia Mercado de Jamaica March 2016 1
    Freesias, one of my favorite flowers–the scent is irresistible.

    Jamaica No Lo Piense Mucho
    Many of Mexico City's markets use this sort of printed sign to advertise the price of what's for sale–in this case, vine-ripened Roma tomatoes–and every sign has a bit of advice to offer about your potential purchase.  I've loved these signs since long before moving to Mexico's capital.  On this market jaunt, the lightbulb went on: all of you would love these typical and sometimes funny signs, too.  This one urges, "Don't think about it too much…take home a little kilo!".

    Jamaica Dinero Bien Gastado
    For already-cut-up calabaza de castilla (a hard-shell Mexican squash): 'money well spent'.

    Jamaica Ahorita Le Atiendo
    For limón criollo (Mexican limes): I'll be right with you!

    Jamaica Está de Rechupete
    Limas
    –and there really is no translation for this uniquely Mexican fruit.  They are neither limes nor lemons, nor are they oranges.  But as the sign says: it's scrumptious!

    Jamaica Sign Trompada
    Pink-fleshed guavas–take the best!  And the orange sign to the left says, "Give Trump a trumpada…" with a papaya!  Loosely translated, it means bop him one with a papaya.  You can also see plastic cups filled with pomegranate arils, whole pomegranates, bananas, clementines, and cantaloupes.

    Jamaica Bonito y Barato
    Chile jalapeño
    : pretty and cheap, at four pesos the quarter kilo (approximately two cents for a half-pound). 

    Jamaica Sonria
    Mexico's papa Alfa–white potatoes for 10 pesos the kilo: smile.

    Jamaica Pida Mas
    Beautiful crisp cucumbers: ask for more.

    Jamaica Manzana de Poca Mad..
    In Mexico, if something is super-wonderful, people say "…no tiene madre…" (it has no mother).  In this case, the merchant's sign for the apples says, "…de poca mad…", or "…it has only a little mother…", but just barely skirts accepted language boundaries by cutting the …"re…", off the madre, leaving you to think of the word by yourself.    

    Jamaica No Le Busque Más
    Tomate verde (tomatillo, in English) at six pesos the kilo: 'Don't look any further!'

    Como Lo Vio en TV
    This merchant is offering his chiles jalapeños at 14 pesos the kilo by poking fun at popular advertising: 'Like you saw on TV'."

    Jamaica Tunas Chingonas
    Tunas are cactus fruits, and extremely refreshing and delicious.  Their texture is like watermelon.  In this case, the sign reads, Tunas Chingonas–the best translation I can think up is badass cactus fruit!

    Mercado de Jamaica Tuna Pelada
    Here's a peeled tuna.  The fruit is easier to peel than a tangerine; cut off each end, slit the thick skin, and peel it off the fruit.

    Jamaica Ni Hablar Mujer
    This sign is my current favorite. "Ni hablar mujer" means 'Lady, don't even talk about it!'.  The phrase is also part of a Pedro Infante song.

    Next year, plan to come along with us to this marvelous market.  Ahorita la atiendo!

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  • A Classic on the Table in Michoacán :: Sopa Tarasca

    Camino a Senguio, 23-08-08
    North-central Michoacán is frequently and with much reason called paradise on earth.  Autumn's wildflowers, ripening corn, green mountains, and a partly cloudy sky combine to give you the sense that 'paradise on earth' just might be exactly where you are: in this case, near Senguio, Michoacán.

    The state of Michoacán is well-known both for its lovely scenery and its even more lovely–and delicious–regional cooking.  The indigenous Purépecha kitchen, in particular, is Mexico Cooks!' favorite.  If you look back at the Mexico Cooks! archives (found listed on the right-hand side of this page), you'll see many, many articles about this marvelous cuisine, which dates back to pre-Hispanic days.  

    Misnamed "Tarascos" by unknowing 16th century Spanish invaders, the Purépecha have, just within the last 25 to 30 years, largely reclaimed their actual tribal name. Nonetheless, one of the most popular dishes in the Michoacán culinary repertoire bears the name sopa tarasca (Tarascan Soup).

    Tzintzuntzan Frijolitos al Fogón
    Not precisely traditional, but certainly not modern, this pot of beans is cooking over a wood fire built in a deep tire rim in an open patio in Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán.

    You might well ask, "Sopa tarasca must be a pre-Hispanic dish, right?"  Or maybe, "Sopa tarasca was first made for her family by a long-ago Purépecha housewife, no?"  Over the course of years, most people who have eaten and fallen in love with this remarkably delicious and filling soup have asked me these same questions.  Much to their surprise, the answer is always, "No…but let me tell you the story I know."

    Plaza Chica Pátzcuaro con Torre
    Once upon a time, long before Mexico Cooks! was born, the small plaza in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán looked like the above photo.  Part of the two-story building with the arches, just to the right of the photo's center, became the home of the Hostería de don Felipe, which had a dining room to serve its guests. Later, the Hostería was renamed Gran Hotel.  In the 1960's, Rafael García Correa was a young cook in the Gran Hotel kitchen.

    Don Rafa Luis Jiménez
    When I met Rafael García Correa in 1982, he was the head of the kitchen at the Gran Hotel.  The photo above, taken in 2004 by Luis Jiménez of the New York Times during an interview where I was present, is don Rafa (don is an honorific title given to a revered older man) showing us a bowl of sopa tarasca in the foreground, along with a plate of corundas (a kind of Michoacán tamal).

    Don Rafa told me that in the mid-1960s, he himself, along with the hotel's then-owner and the owner's American wife, invented a dish that, once offered to the public, became an almost instant classic: sopa tarasca was born, not created in an indigenous kitchen but for a tourist hotel's dining room. Today, we'd call that cocina de autor: the cook's invention.

    Sopa Tarasca Lu Morelia
    Sopa tarasca as served at Lu Cocina Michoacana in Morelia.  Read more about the restaurant here.

    Sopa Tarasca Hotel La Soledad
    Sopa tarasca as served at the Hotel de la Soledad, Morelia.  Some sopa tarasca is based on beans; some, like don Rafa's, is not.

    Was don Rafa the inventor?  He swore his story is true.  He also gave me a hand-written recipe which he promised is the original.  Don Rafa passed away a few years ago, and any possible secrets of sopa tarasca's origins were buried with him.

    Don Rafa reported that sopa tarasca was served for the first time as part of a Pátzcuaro wedding banquet, on May 8, 1965.  Years later, he opened his own restaurant near Plaza Gertrudis Bocanegra (the plaza chica) in Pátzcuaro. If you go to the restaurant, you can still enjoy a bowl of his own sopa tarasca.

    Today, sopa tarasca is a Michoacán icon, prepared in almost every restaurant around Lake Pátzcuaro as well as in further-flung establishments.  It's one of those you-have-to-try-it local dishes that people who know you've been to Michoacán will ask you about: did you taste it at so-and-so's restaurant?  How about at this other place, did you like it there?

    Sopa Tarasca Estilo Mansión Iturbide
    Sopa tarasca as served at Pátzcuaro's Mansión Iturbe, a hotel and restaurant.  Click on any picture to see a larger view.

    Fortunately, sopa tarasca is a relatively easy soup to prepare at home.  The ingredients should be readily available, if not in your nearby supermarket then at a Mexican market not far from you.  The recipe I offer you here is don Rafa's, but there are others (notably an excellent one from Diana Kennedy) that are available either in books or on the Internet.

    Sopa Tarasca Alma Cervantes
    Sopa tarasca as served by chef Alma Cervantes Cota at Restaurante Azul y Oro Ingeniería, UNAM, Mexico City.

    Sopa Tarasca Don Rafael García

    Ingredients

    For the roux:
    50 grams all-purpose flour
    100 grams unsalted butter

    For the soup:
    500 milligrams tomato purée
    4 cups cooked peruano beans–or other beans, if you can't get peruanosBayos would be excellent, and you can buy them already cooked, if you like.
    2 tortillas
    5 corn tortillas, cut into very thin strips and fried until crisp
    100 grams chile ancho, cut into thin strips and fried until just crisp.  Be very careful not to burn the chiles, they fry quickly and burn in the blink of an eye.
    250 grams Mexican table cream
    100 grams quesillo (Oaxaca cheese), shredded
    1 clove garlic
    1 small white onion
    10 cups rich chicken stock
    Worcestershire sauce to taste 
    Salt and pepper to taste
    1 sprig fresh thyme
    1 sprig fresh marjoram or oregano
    2 bay leaves

    Preparation
    In a heavy pot, prepare a roux with the butter and flour, stirring constantly so that no lumps form.  Allow to cook until the roux is a deep caramel color.

    In a blender, liquify the two tortillas listed, some of the fried chiles, and the onion. Add this mixture to the roux and continue stirring until it is well incorporated. Next, add the tomato purée, the chicken broth, the herbs, and salt and pepper to taste.  Add half a teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce and taste; if you think more is needed, add bit by bit.  Add the beans to the blender and liquify. 

    Pour all blended ingredients into a large heavy pot.  Allow to simmer for 15 minutes.  At the end of that time, if the soup seems too thick, add chicken broth.  If it seems too thin, simmer until it reduces a little.  

    Put equal amounts of the soup into each of 10 bowls.  Garnish with fried tortilla strips, fried chile ancho, some Oaxaca cheese, and some cream.  You can add some cubed or sliced avocado and a few sprigs of cilantro.  Take your cues from the photos I've included in this article. 

    SopaTarasca Fancy
    Sopa tarasca, garnished in this serving with fried shredded tortillas and fried shredded chile pasilla.

    Serves 10.

    Provecho!

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  • Viva México! Viva México! Qué Viva! :: Fiestas Patronales, Independence Day Celebrations in Mexico

    Fiestas-Patrias Star Media
    Street vendors hawk la bandera nacional (the Mexican flag) in dozens of forms for several weeks during August and right up to September 16, Mexico's Independence Day. It's always fun to see what's the latest in patriotic tchotchkes.  In this photo, you see a vendor near the zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución) in Mexico City.  Photo courtesy Starmedia.

    Mexico's official struggle for freedom from Spanish colonization began sometime between midnight and dawn on September 16, 1810, when Father Miguel Hidalgo gave the Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores) from the parish bell tower in the town known today as Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato.  Mexico celebrates its day of Fiestas Patrias (Patriotic Holidays) on September 16 with parades of school children and military batallions, politicians proclaiming speeches, and general festivity. 

    Banderas
    Another flag vendor, this time in Morelia, Michoacán.  All photos copyright Mexico Cooks! unless otherwise noted.

    Hundreds of books have been written about Mexico's break from Spain, millions of words have been dedicated to exploring the lives of the daring men and women who knew, more than 200 years ago, that the time had come for freedom.  You can read some of the history on the Internet. Another excellent source for Mexican history is The Life and Times of Mexico, by Earl Shorris.  You'll find that book available to order through Amazon.com, on the left-hand side of this page.

    But the best-kept secret in Mexico is the Independence Day party.  No, the biggest deal is not on September 16th.  Held every year on the night of September 15, the Gran Noche Mexicana (the Great Mexican Night), the real celebration of the revolutionary events in 1810, is a combination of New Year's Eve, your birthday, and your country's independence festivities.  Wouldn't you really rather hear about the party?  I knew you would!

    Kiosko_adornado
    Jalisco town kiosko (bandstand) decorated for the Fiestas Patrias.

    For years I've attended the September 15 celebrations in a variety of towns and cities.  In Mexico City, the country's president leads hundreds of thousands of citizens in late-night celebrations in the zócalo, the enormous square surrounded by government buildings and the Metropolitan Cathedral.  Every Mexican town big enough to have a mayor holds a reenactment of the Grito de Dolores, Hidalgo's cry for independence.  The town square is decorated with flags, bunting, and ribbons.  Cohetes (sky rockets) flare and bang.  Sometime around eleven o'clock at night, the folks, assembled in the town plaza since nine or so, are restless for the celebration to begin.  The mayor's secretary peeks out from the doorway of the government offices, the folkloric dancers file off the stage in the plaza, the band tunes up for the Himno Nacional (the national anthem), the crowd waves its flags and hushes its jostling.  The mayor steps out onto the balcony of the government building or onto the stage built just outside the building's front door to lead the singing of the Himno's emotional verses. 

    Grito-independencia-zocalo-2015
    The bandera monumental and celebratory fireworks in front of Mexico's Palacio Nacional, the zócalo, Mexico City, September 15, 2015. Photo courtesy press.

    Dressed in his finest and backed up by a military or police guard, the mayor clears his throat and loudly begins an Independence Day proclamation.  He pulls a heavy rope to ring the Independence bell, then he waves a huge Mexican flag.  Back and forth, back and forth!  In every Mexican town, the proclamation ends with Hidalgo's 205-year-old exhortations: "Long live religion!  Long live Our Lady of Guadalupe! Long live the Americas and death to the corrupt government!  Viva México!  Qué viva!"

    Guadalupano
    Father Hidalgo's 1810 banner.  He carried this banner as his standard as a leader in the fight for Mexico's independence from Spain. Photo courtesy Pinterest.

    The mayor and the crowd shout as one voice: "Viva México!  Qué viva!  Qué viva!"  The mayor grins and waves as the fireworks begin, bursting huge green, white, and red chrysanthemums over the heads of the attendees.

    Later there will be dancing and more music, and food, including traditional pozole, tostadas, mezcal, tequila and beer, and, in larger towns and cities, all-night revelry in the plaza, in private homes, and in hotels, restaurants, and events halls.

    A number of years ago my friend, música ranchera singer Lupita Jiménez from Guadalajara, invited me to a Gran Noche Mexicana where she was performing.  The event was scheduled to start at 9:30, but Mexican custom normally dictates late arrival.  By ten o'clock I was on my way to the party.  At the salón de eventos (events hall), the parking lot was already full, but a man was parking cars on the street just a block away.  As I left my car, he said, "Could you pay me now for watching your car?  It's 20 pesos.  I'll be leaving a little early, probably before the event is over." 

    "How long will you be here?" I asked, a bit anxious about leaving the car alone on this night of prodigious revelry.

    Lupita
    Lupita Jiménez in performance at a Gran Noche Mexicana in Guadalajara.

    "Till six o'clock."  My jaw dropped and I handed him the 20 pesos.  Six in the morning!  Surely we wouldn't party quite so long as that! 

    The sad truth is that I didn't.  I couldn't.  My stamina flagged at about 3:00 AM, after dinner had been served at 10:30, a city politician had proclaimed the Grito, the Himno Nacional had been sung, and big noisy fireworks had been set off on the indoor stage (I swear to you, indoors) of the salón de eventos.  Then the show started, a brief recapitulation in song and dance of Mexican history, starting with concheros (loincloth-and-feather-clad Aztec dancers) whirling around a belching volcano, and ending with the glorious jarabe tapatía–the Guadalajara regional dance that most speakers of English know as the Mexican hat dance.

    After innumerable trios, duets, and solo singers, the show paused for intermission at close to two in the morning.  Several of my table-mates slipped away, but I thought I could make it to the end.  The first half of the Gran Noche Mexicana had been invigorating and exciting and I loved it.  During intermission, a wonderful Mexican comedian poked fun at politics, functionaries, and Mexican life in general.  We were all roaring with laughter.  When the comic left the stage, I realized that I was exhausted and needed to go home to bed.  Just as the performers stepped onto the stage to begin the next round of song, I sneaked away. 

    When I called Lupita the next afternoon to congratulate her on the success of the event, she asked if I'd stayed for the last few costume changes.  "Mija, I had to go home early.  I lasted till three, but then I just couldn't stay awake.  I'm so sorry I missed the end." 

    Lupita laughed.  "I'm glad you lasted that long, but next time you have to stay for the whole night!  You missed the best part!"

    Zcalo_df_2
    The Palacio Nacional (national office building, including the president's offices) on the Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución) in Mexico City, all dressed up for the Fiestas Patrias.

    Viva México!  Qué viva!

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  • Frijoles Refritos Estilo Mexico Cooks! :: Refried Beans, Mexico Cooks! Style

    San Cristóbal Beans
    Some of the many varieties of beans for sale at the daily indigenous market in San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas.  The metal cup measures one kilo (2.2 pounds).

    The Spanish word frijol is a bastardization of ancient Spanish frisol, which itself is a rendering of the Catalán word fesol–which comes from the Latin scientific name–are you still with me?–phaseolus vulgaris.  Is that more than you wanted to know about bean nomenclature? 

    Here's yet another little bit of Mexican bean esoterica: in Mexico, when you go to the store or the tianguis (street market) to buy beans, you are buying frijol.  When you prepare the frijol at home, the cooked beans become frijoles.  That's right: raw dried beans in any quantity: frijol.  Cooked beans, frijoles.  If you ask a tianguis vendor for a kilo of frijoles, he could rightfully send you to a restaurant to make your purchase.

    Olla y Frijol
    The simple utensils you need to cook dried beans: an olla de barro (clay pot) and a strainer.  You can also use a heavy metal pot, or a pressure cooker, but the clay pot adds special flavor to the cooked beans.  These pale yellow, long-oval beans are frijol peruano (Peruvian beans, or phaseolus vulgaris), the most commonly used bean in the Central Highlands of Mexico.  A clay bean pot has been fired at a temperature substantially higher than the heat of your stove burner, so there's no need to worry about it breaking when you use it to cook.   

    Mexico Cooks! loves beans.  In our kitchen, we prepare about a pound of dried beans at a time.  After cooking, this is enough frijoles de la olla (cooked-in-the-pot beans) to serve, freshly cooked, for a meal or two, with plenty left over to freeze.  We freeze the rest of the cooked beans in five or six two-portion size plastic sandwich bags.  Cooked beans and their pot liquor freeze very well.

    Piedritas
    I found this little batch of rocks, discolored or very wrinkled beans, and other garbage in the half-kilo of frijol that I cooked yesterday. 

    Beans are very easy to cook.  First, pick carefully through your beans.  Even if you buy bulk beans or commercially packaged dry beans at a modern supermarket, be certain to pick through them and discard any beans that look badly broken, discolored, or wizened, as well as any small rocks.  You may also find pieces of straw, pieces of paper, and other detritus in any purchase of beans.  Put the cleaned beans in a strainer and wash well under running water. 

    To soak, or not to soak?  Some folks recommend soaking beans for up to 24 hours to shorten their cooking time, but Mexico Cooks! has tried both soaking and not soaking and has noticed that the cooking time is about the same either way.  We never soak.  You try it both ways, too, and report back with your findings.

    Epazote
    Epazote (wormweed) grown in a maceta (flower pot) on my terrace.  Just before turning on the fire to cook the beans, Mexico Cooks! adds two sprigs of epazote, just about this size, to the pot of beans and water.  The strong, resinous odor of the herb absorbs almost entirely into the beans, giving them a mild flavor punch and, some say, diminishing flatulence.  

    Frijol y Agua
    My olla de barrlo (clay bean pot) holds about a half kilo of frijol plus enough water to cook them.  You can see the light glinting off the water line, just below the top part of the handle.  If you don't have an olla de barro, a heavy metal soup pot will do almost as well.  The clay does impart a subtle, earthy flavor to beans as they cook.

    Over a high flame, bring the pot of beans to a full, rolling boil.  Turn the flame to a medium simmer and cover the pot.  Allow the beans to cook for about an hour.  At the end of an hour, check the water level.  If you need to add more water, be sure that it is boiling before you pour it into the bean pot; adding cold water lowers the cooking temperature and can cause the beans to toughen.  Continue to cook the beans at a medium simmer until, when you bite into one, it is soft and creamy.  The pot liquor will thicken  slightly. 

    Now's the time to salt your beans–after cooking, not before and not during.  We use Espuma del Mar (Mexican sea salt from the state of Colima) for its wonderful sweetly salty flavor, but any salt will do.  Add a little less salt than you think is correct–you can always add more later, and you don't want to oversalt your beans.

    If you live in the United States or Canada, you'll want to order the fabulous heritage dried beans sold by Rancho Gordo.  Rancho Gordo's owner, my friend Steve Sando, has nearly single-handedly brought delicious old-style beans to new popularity in home and restaurant kitchens.  If you've tasted ordinary beans and said, "So what?", try Rancho Gordo beans for a huge WOW! of an eye opener.

    Mexico Cooks! likes frijoles de la olla (freshly cooked beans, straight from the pot) with a big spoonful of salsa fresca (chopped tomato, minced onion, minced chile serrano, salt, and roughly chopped cilantro).  Sometimes we steam white rice, fill a bowl with it, add frijoles de la olla and salsa fresca, and call it comida (main meal of the day).  

    Manteca y Chiles
    Chiles serranos and manteca (lard)for frijoles refritos estilo Mexico Cooks!.

    For breakfast, Mexico Cooks! prepares frijoles refritos (refried beans).  Served with scrambled eggs, some sliced avocado, and a stack of hot tortillas, they're a great way to start the morning.  A dear friend from Michoacán taught me her way of preparing refried beans and I have never changed it; people who say they don't care for refried beans eat a bite, finish their portion, and ask for seconds.  They're that good.

    Here's some more bean trivia: frijoles refritos doesn't really mean 'refried' beans.  Mexican Spanish often uses the prefix 're-' to describe something exceptional.  'Rebueno' means 'really, really good'.  'Refrito' means–you guessed it–well-fried.

    Manteca y Chiles Dorados
    Melt about a tablespoon of manteca (lard) in an 8" frying pan.  Split the chiles from the tip almost to the stem end.  Fry the chiles until they are blistered and dark brown, almost blackened.  To prevent a million splatters, allow to cool a bit before you add the beans to the pan.

    Frijoles Refritos Estilo Mexico Cooks! (Refried Beans, Mexico Cooks! Style)
    Serves six as a side dish

    3 cups recently-cooked frijoles peruanos
    1 or 2 chiles serrano, depending on your heat tolerance
    1 or 2 Tbsp lard or vegetable oil—preferably lard and definitely NOT olive oil
    Bean cooking liquid
    Sea salt to taste

    Melt the lard in an 8-inch skillet.  Split the chile(s) from the tip almost to the stem end and add to the melted lard.  Sauté over a medium flame until the chile is dark brown, almost black. 

    Lower the flame and add the beans and a little bean liquid.  When the beans begin to simmer, mash them and the chile with a potato or bean masher until they are smooth.  Add more liquid if necessary to give the beans the consistency you prefer.  Add sea salt to taste and stir well.

    Frijoles y Chiles Sartén
    Leave the melted lard and the chiles in the frying pan and add the beans and some pot liquor.  Bring to a simmer over low heat.  When the beans are hot, start mashing them with a potato or bean masher.  Mash the chiles, too.

    Medio Machucado
    These beans are about half mashed.

    Frijolitos Ya
    Mexico Cooks! prefers that frijoles refritos have a little texture.  These are just right for us, but you might prefer yours perfectly smooth.  If you like them smoother, keep mashing!  Either way, the beans should be thickly liquid.  If the consistency is too thick, add more pot liquor.  If the beans are too thin, add a few more whole beans to mash.

    For a wonderful breakfast or supper treat, try making molletes estilo Mexico Cooks!.  This is real Mexican home cooking; Mexico Cooks! has never seen this style molletes served in a restaurant.  A wonderful Michoacán cook taught me how to prepare this easy meal.

    Pan Bolillo
    Start with fresh pan bolillo (individual-size loaf of dense white bread), split in half lengthwise.  Butter the cut bolillo halves and grill them on a comal (griddle) or hot skillet till they're golden brown.  If you aren't able to buy bolillos where you live, use a dense French-style bread instead.

    Pan con Frijolitos
    Spread each half bolillo with a thick coat–two tablespoons or more–of frijoles refritos

    Molletes
    Top the beans with a freshly fried egg and your favorite bottled or home-made salsa.

    Salsa Cruda
    Salsa cruda (also known as pico de gallo) is the home-made salsa that I prefer with molletes.  Use finely diced perfectly ripe tomatoes, just a bit of minced white onion, as much minced chile serrano as you prefer, a lot of coarsely chopped cilantro, and salt to taste: voilà!  Photo courtesy A Bit of Saffron.

    Breakfast, estilo Mexico Cooks!, will keep you going strong till time for comida.  You're going to love these beans!

    ¡Provecho! 

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  • Fireworks in San Lucas Evangelista, Jalisco :: Castillos en el Aire

    San_lucas_church
    Decorating the church for the feast day of St. Luke, in San Lucas Evangelista.

    Several years ago on the Catholic feast day of Saint Luke, I invited my friend Julia to drive to San Lucas Evangelista, Jalisco, with me to meet the coheteros (fireworks makers). It was the final day of the fiestas patronales (patron saint's festivities) for Saint Luke and I knew his little namesake town would be in full party mode.

    We drove along the main street of the tiny town looking for the church. Usually a village church is easy to locate—I just look for the church tower and point the car in its direction. This town was different; we couldn't see a tower. Finally I pulled to the side of a narrow street and asked an elderly shawl-wrapped woman how to get to the church.

    "Ay señora," she sighed, "No se puede." (You can't.)

    I was momentarily puzzled, but then light dawned. "Because of the fiestas?"

    "Yes, the whole street is blocked with the rides and booths. You need to go to the last street in town," she pointed, "and park your car there. Then you can walk." She shook her head, scandalized by the madness of the fiestas.

    Chuckling, I followed her directions and parked the car almost directly in front of the church, but on the rocky unpaved side street rather than the main street. We walked a few meters to the churchyard and immediately saw that the castillo (the "castle", a large set-piece fireworks display) was under construction. We also noticed that the church has no tower—no wonder we hadn't spotted it immediately from the edge of town.

    Coheteros
    Coheteros preparing the castillo in San Lucas Evangelista. 

    As I approached a group of men working on part of the castillo, they stood up to greet us. "Buenas tardes, how can we help you?"

    I explained that I was interested in talking to the boss about the fireworks and that I was going to write an article about the fireworks. The first young man laughed and pointed at a second young man crouched on the ground working. "Talk to him, he's the boss's son. He'll help you." Then he laughed even harder. The young man in question rolled his eyes and grimaced.

    "My name is Gerardo Hernández Ortiz, and I'm not the boss's son. I'm just a helper here. You want to talk to the big boss—he's over there." He pointed at another man standing by the churchyard gate. "Wait here a minute, I'll go get him." He socked the first young man in the arm as he walked to the gate. I watched as he talked briefly with a man in a navy blue plaid shirt. He glanced toward me and nodded

    Very shortly that man came over and shook my hand. "I'm Manuel Zúñiga of Cohetería del Pueblo (Town Fireworks Makers). My worker said you wanted to talk with me?" I explained my interest again and he became very serious.

    Castillo
    A spinning castillo (castle) lights up the night.

    "You have to explain to your readers that my profession is not dangerous. The majority of accidents happen because of juguetería, the small 'toy' fireworks such as palomitas (poppers) and luces de Bengal (sparklers) used by children. Those fireworks are imported from China and are much less stable than the ones we make here in Mexico. Those are very dangerous, very.

    "Yes, there have been some bad accidents with our kind of fireworks, like the one in Veracruz in January 2003 (28 people were killed and more than 50 were injured when illegally stored fireworks exploded in a central market), but those incidents are very unusual.

    "Our philosophy is that one person dies, but others follow in his footsteps and the work carries on and becomes better.

    "My family has been making castillos, cohetes (rockets), bombas (bombs) and other fireworks for three generations. My grandfather, may he rest in peace, started making fireworks in San Juan Evangelista, the next town over there," he gestured to a spot in the distance beyond the church, "and then the whole family moved to Cuexcomatitlán, just up the road from here, and we've lived there ever since."

    "It's always been a family business. You might say that we're Zúñiga and Sons." He smiled broadly. "I'm Manuel Zúñiga, at your service. We make a unique style of fireworks and we're very good at it. We've won many contests, including first place in the State of Jalisco. We've been asked to be judges at a pyrotechnics contest in the State of Mexico.

    Assembling_in_the_cemetery
    Putting together the castillo.

    "Most people think that the Chinese are the kings of gunpowder, that China is the world capital of fireworks. We've found out that the tradition of fireworks is very strong in England and that the English are really more knowledgeable than the Chinese. Their designs and innovations are at the forefront. We hope to travel to England one day to see their work in person."

    I was fascinated with the construction of the various parts of the castillo. "It looks as if you have to be an engineer to figure out how this entire thing fits together and works," I said, reaching up to move several parts of the mechanism.

    Closeup
    The fireworks attached to the wheels of carrizo (similar to bamboo) are color-coded.

    "Yes, it's very complicated. Every tube that you see attached to the structure is filled with gunpowder and the chemicals that create the colors of the designs. We use several different kinds of materials to make the framework, like carrizo (bamboo canes) and madera de pino (pine wood). The bamboo is very flexible, the pine is rigid. There are other kinds of wood that we use to give more shape to the designs. Some of the sections of the castillo are hinged so that they move up and down as they spin.

    "Designs are made with long thin tubes filled with gunpowder and with the thicker tubes that shoot fire. You might see flowers, a heart, a horse or a cow, or some religious symbols." He walked over to a large section of castillo lying on the ground and traced the outline of the design with his finger. "This one is a chalice with the communion host above it. Can you see it?" I certainly could. "It will look beautiful when it's lit up tonight."

    Closer
    More tubes of gunpowder, color-coded and attached to part of the castillo.

    "When it's time to put the whole castillo together, the parts are set onto a pole. We start with the topmost part and then use a system of pulleys to raise it up. Then we add the middle section, and then the bottom part under that."

    Closeup_2

    "Come with me, I want to show you some other things." As we walked to the fireworks-filled storeroom next to the church, Sr. Zúñiga continued explaining the intricacies of his family business.

    Toritos

    "Here, this is something different. It's a torito, a little bull. See the shape? Late tonight, we'll bring these out to play." He laughed. "A boy carries this little bull over his head—yes, after it's lit and while it's exploding with color and fire—and runs through the crowd. He'll chase whoever looks like a good victim. He hunts for whoever looks nervous. This torito has buscapíes fastened to it. Those are a kind of fireworks that shoots off the framework of the little bull and skitters along the ground. It literally means 'looks for feet'. It's only a little dangerous." He grinned and winked.

    Toritos Tule 1
    These "toritos" are in fact turkeys, not little bulls.  The young men standing behind the toritos made them; they explained to me that even though they're not little bulls, they're still called toritos.  

    I grinned too, remembering a fiesta night in Guadalajara when a small boy with a blazing torito chased me down a cobblestone street as the festive crowd laughed to see the señora running to escape.  

    Soul11night
    A mid-section of a castillo, burning brightly in a churchyard.

    Sr. Zúñiga talked as we walked back through the churchyard. "We work all year round. There are 25 of us who build the fireworks.

    Up_it_goes_2
    Raising the castillo in San Lucas Evangelista.

    "We'll be in Ixtlahuacán de los Membrillos on October 21 for a visit of Our Lady of Zapopan and in Ajijic on October 31 for the last day of the month-long celebration for Our Lady of the Rosary. There will be a castillo in each town. Of course we've already started preparations for the nine-day festivities in Ajijic at the end of November."

    We gazed up at the castillo being mounted just outside the cemetery fence. Curious, Julia asked him, "What does it cost to have one of these built?"

    "The simplest ones start at $7,500 pesos—about $665 U.S.. The price goes up from that to about $20,000 pesos—about $1,800 U.S.—for more complicated castillos built on a central pole, like this one. Then there is another category of castillo, much more complex, that starts at $25,000 pesos. For that kind, the sky's the limit." He shook my hand. "Can't you stay until we burn this one at around eleven o'clock tonight?"

    [youtube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeA0_7QgMe4&w=560&h=315]
    A castillo in all its brief glory in La Barca, Jalisco.

    "I wish I could—maybe next year." With a last look at the work in progress, Julia and I headed for the car. I knew I'd dream of castillos that night. The sky was the limit.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Chiles en Nogada at Restaurante Azul Histórico :: El Rey de los Chiles (the King of Chiles)

    Azul Histórico 2
    Azul Histórico, a star of the constellation of three restaurants that make up Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's Grupo Azul, has become one of Mexico Cooks!' favorite destinations for comida (Mexico's midday main meal).  Nestled under a canopy of trees in the patio of a 17th century Mexican palace, the restaurant is among the most beautiful–and most delicious–in Mexico's capital city.

    Azul Histórico Menu
    We recently insisted that a dear friend visiting from Texas accompany us to experience the once-a-year delight of chiles en nogada, stuffed with a special picadillo (meat, fruit, and vegetable hash) and then bathed with walnut sauce, as presented and served at Restaurante Azul Histórico.  In last week's Mexico Cooks! article, we shared a terrific recipe for chiles en nogada with you. Today, we'll see the chiles, considered to be the king of Mexico's cuisine, and honored as such at table in the restaurant.

    Azul Histórico Sopa de Tortilla
    Our friend, who serves sopa de tortilla (tortilla soup) in his own restaurant, wanted to try the version served at Azul Histórico.

    Azul HIstórico Salpicón de Venado
    Four of us shared a small order of mildly spicy, delicious salpicón de venado (venison, cooked, seasoned with onion, pepper, vinegar, oil, and salt, and shredded).

    Plate Service for the Chile
    Once we finished our appetizers, two of our extremely competent wait staff laid the table with a long black linen tablecloth, plus colorful appliquéd individual placemats and extra candles, all in honor of the king of chiles. The plates, also in special use for chiles en nogada, are talavera pottery from the city of Puebla, where chiles en nogada originated.

    Platón de Chiles para Escoger
    The serving platter of chiles.  Each color ribbon indicates the type stuffing in each chile.  The choices are:

    • red ribbons from Atlixco, Puebla.  The filling is composed of a complex picadillo with quite a lot of fruit. 
    • green ribbons from Coxcatlán, Puebla.  The filling is shredded pork, with more spices and less fruit than the first.
    • grey ribbons from Puebla de los Ángeles, Puebla.  The filling is beef with fruits and spices, for those who prefer not to eat pork.

    Azul Histórico Chile on the Plate
    I chose the chile from Atlixco, Puebla.  At the Azul restaurants and at most others, the chile is roasted, peeled, and seeded prior to stuffing, but is not coated with a stiffly beaten egg coating. The significance of the colors of the chile en nogada is the vision of the Mexican flag on your plate: green, white, and red. Were it coated and fried, the green would not be visible. The chile's red ribbon (and yellow flower) are removable.  The blue and white sphere with the red ribbon are part of the table decor that honors the chile.

    Azul Histórico Chile dos Nogadas 
    Once the chile is on your plate, the waiter serves the nogada (walnut sauce). At the Azul restaurants, the diner may choose savory or sweet nogada, or a combination of the two.  I chose the combination. The waiter poured the thicker nogada salada (savory) onto the half of the chile near the tip; he then poured smooth nogada dulce (sweet) onto the half closer to the stem.  In the photo, you can easily see the dividing line between the two nogadas.

    Azul Histórico Chile en Nogada
    After the waiter bathes the chile with its walnut sauce(s), he garnishes it with seasonal pomegranate seeds and then with a sprig of parsley. Voilà, presenting Su Majestad el Chile en Nogada!

    Azul Histórico Chile Eaten
    You can see the rich filling inside the chile.  Last week's Mexico Cooks! article gives you an excellent recipe to make your own chiles en nogada.  If you try it, please let us know how delicious it was!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.