Category: Restaurants

La Conspiración de 1809 Restaurante y Cantina, Morelia, Michoacán :: Don’t Miss the New Breakfast Menu!

In the evening, when you're relaxing at La Conspiración outside under the portales (arches), you can easily see the sky-high towers and the blue dome of the Cathedral–illuminated by soft white lighting, the lovely view will take your breath away. All photos by Mexico Cooks! unless otherwise noted

For the last nearly 15 years, chef Cynthia Martínez, the chef and inspiration behind Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809, has been a close friend. Her husband, Roberto González–in charge of the front of the house–makes sure your experience at their restaurant is extraordinary, from the time you approach the hostess near the door until your "Hasta la próxima," (See you next time!) farewell. Your meal–whether desayuno (breakfast), comida (Mexico's mid-afternoon main meal), or cena (Mexico's late evening supper)–is always beautifully prepared, temptingly plated, and elegantly served. Forced to close due to Morelia's lockdown for Covid-19 prevention, the restaurant has recently re-opened. New to the menu are its extraordinary breakfasts; I've breakfasted twice at La Conspiración since its early June re-opening and will return in the next week or two–the dishes are that good!

Among my favorites on the new breakfast menu are the eggs Benedict, the Croque Monsieur, and the enfrijoladas. The enfrijoladas, their bean sauce flavored Oaxaca-style with the subtly anise flavored dried native Mexican avocado leaf, are arguably the most popular breakfast dish on the menu.

Right now, most restaurants in the world are under tremendous financial pressure to survive, due to Covid-19. Restaurante La Conspiración is battling the same consequences. If you live in Morelia, or if you visit here regularly, be assured that the restaurant maintains all recommended health guidelines for protecting its customers: masks and/or face shields for the wait staff, extreme attention to cleanliness of all furniture, dishes, and anything else a customer might touch, and available antibacterial gel for hands of staff and customers alike.

The marvelous chef Cynthia Martínez, the guiding light (and the guiding hand) in the kitchen at La Conspiración. Photo courtesy La Conspiración.

Really hot, steaming hot chocolate, traditionally made with Michoacán's chocolate de metate (stone-ground chocolate) with boiling-hot water rather than milk, is my favorite breakfast beverage at La Conspiración. I have to start my morning with coffee at home, just so I can move on to drink the hot chocolate at the restaurant. Photo courtesy La Conspiración.

Tablets of freshly stone-ground chocolate de metate, each one ready to be melted into a delicious cup of hot chocolate.

The croque monsieur at La Conspiración. A sandwich stuffed with ham, covered with bechamel sauce, and topped with baby spinach, comal-roasted onion quarters and grilled grape tomatoes, this will definitely get you going on your day.

Here are the enfrijoladas I mentioned earlier. The plate is filled with three tortillas, dipped in bean sauce to become enfrijoladas, crammed with shredded chicken and topped with more bean sauce–plus a good-sized portion of fried plantain cubes, that avocado fan, little sprouts, and heavenly Mexican table cream! The sauce has its origins in Oaxaca, where dried native avocado leaves are blended with freshly cooked black beans to become a silky delight. Luisa and I split the enfrijoladas and the croque monsieur and were hard-pressed to finish each of our half-portions. But–ahem–we managed.

Note to Mexico Cooks! readers: the avocado most commonly seen outside Mexico is the Hass, a California hybrid avocado, and unfortunately the leaves of the Hass are flavorless and useless to make this sauce.

Another note: when you're making or ordering this sort of dish, remember the following:
–the tortillas for enchiladas are dipped in a chile sauce
–the tortillas for enfrijoladas are dipped in a bean sauce
–the tortillas for entomadadas are dipped in a tomato sauce
–the tortillas for enmoladas are dipped in–mole!

This lovely plating is the huevos benedictinos (eggs benedict) that Luisa and I shared on our second breakfast visit. The eggs were perfectly poached, the iberico ham completely tender, and the sauce–oh my, the sauce was lemony perfection. The icing on the cake, so to speak, was the serving of wonderful just-tender asparagus, grown right here in Michoacán. Photo courtesy La Conspiración.

The other dish Luisa and I shared on our second breakfast visit to La Conspiración: hotcakes de elote (tender corn hotcakes). They're offered in two options: the first with ate (a fruit paste) and cheese, and the second with house-made jams. We took the jam option and were so delighted with these unusual and delicious hotcakes! And yes, it's the same word in both English and Spanish.

Part of the breakfast menu at La Conspiración.

In case you're concerned about safety and Covid-19 related regulations, have the greatest confidence that La Conspiración is taking all necessary precautions to make sure that both diners and staff are protected. If you live
in Morelia and are looking for a beautiful, comfortable, and delicious option for breakfast (or comida, or cena), by all means join Cynthia and Roberto and their team for a wonderful, relaxing meal. Open seven days a week, you'd love it tomorrow–Sunday! Tell them Mexico Cooks! sent you. In addition, any meal is also available for takeout or delivery.

La Conspiración Restaurante y Cantina
Portal Allende #209
Centro Histórico
Morelia, Michoacán
Reservations or Take-Out Service: 443 1580 0443
Hours:
Sunday – Thursday 8:00AM – 11:00PM
Friday and Saturday 8:00AM – Midnight

Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours

4 de July de 2020
Fonda Marceva :: The Best Regional Restaurant in Morelia, Featuring Food from Michoacán’s Tierra Caliente

I first ate a meal in the beautiful central patio at Fonda Marceva in 2008–12 years ago, shortly after the restaurant opened. There has never been a time when I have not eaten there, dreamed of eating there, or wished I were eating one of their delicious house-prepared dishes from the Tierra Caliente, the southern hotlands of Michoacán. A fonda is normally a small, family-run restaurant featuring home-style food. Fonda Marceva fits that description–except it's quite large and decorated to a fare-thee-well with the owners' collection of Mexican artisan work.

Over the years, the owners have become very good friends: the founder, don Margarito and his wonderful wife; their incredible daughter Leonorilda Cega and her brother Héctor Celis, who manage each of Marceva's two locations, as well as other family members. It's always a privilege and a delight to share a table with friends at Fonda Marceva, and there is very little on the menu that doesn't call my name. My personal favorites are the aporreado, the chambarete, and the caldo de habas–oh, and the frito the uchepos, the toqueras, the frijoles–well, you can find your own favorites.

Right now, most restaurants in the world are under tremendous financial pressure to survive, due to Covid-19. Fonda Marceva is no different from the rest–except for its quality of food, its old-fashioned attentive service, and its moderate prices. If you live in Morelia, or if you visit here regularly, be assured that the restaurant maintains all recommended health guidelines for protecting its customers: masks and/or face shields for the wait staff, extreme attention to cleanliness of all furniture, dishes, and anything else a customer might touch, and available antibacterial gel for hands of staff and customers alike.

This past week, I was fortunate to have breakfast with a group of friends at Fonda Marceva. Do plan a visit yourselves. It's crucially important to support our local businesses, keep our Michoacán traditions alive, and spend some time–at a healthy distance–with our friends.

Just two or three blocks south of the Cathedral in Morelia, at Calle Abasolo 455, this inconspicuous doorway is the gateway to the best regional food in town. Stepping into the restaurant is like stepping back in time, to a gentler era, to a delightful waitstaff, and to home-style food created to please your palate.

Entradas (appetizers) include frijolitos (beans), queso fresco del rancho (freshly-made farm cheese), Mexican table cream brought from the ranch, salsa, and hot tortillas. The red drink is a conga, a mix of freshly-squeezed fruit juices and grenadine.

Salsa, frijoles, and a fresh, hot, hand-made tortilla…heaven on your plate.

Conjunto "Vargas" plays and sings terrific música abajeña (music from the lowlands) as they stroll around the restaurant.

Even the photo of this carne asada (grilled steak) plate still makes my mouth water. Two huge pieces of grilled steak, grilled onions, rice, sliced ripe tomatoes, avocados, and crunchy cucumbers are accompanied by fresh limones (Key limes) to squeeze over everything.

A common home-style dish, aporreado, is hard to find on a restaurant menu. The dish combines cecina (dried beef) and scrambled egg with a spicy caldillo de jitomate (thin broth). It's so good; during the eight years that I lived in Mexico City, I had to go to Fonda Marceva to eat it every time I came to Morelia. Once I even took a liter of aporreado home with me, on the bus!

The Sunday buffet is a super way to enjoy a leisurely and extensive breakfast with family or friends. You'll find everything on the buffet from fresh juice and seasonal fruits with (or without) yoghurt to house-made toqueras, six or eight delicious main dishes, and everything else you could possibly want to eat. I can't go this Sunday, but who wants to go in July? Name the date and time and I'll meet you there. Photo courtesy Fonda Marceva.

Toqueras! Mexico Cooks! has eaten in hundreds of Mexico's homes and restaurants and has never before seen these on a menu. Similar to corn gorditas (thick tortillas), they are unbelievably delicious. You can try making them at home if you have access to fresh field corn.

TOQUERAS

Ingredients
5 ears fresh white field or dent corn (don't try to use sweet corn, the recipe won't work)
1 egg yolk
1/2 small white onion, sliced thin
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
pinch of white sugar
1/3 cup melted butter
lard

Equipment
Blender
Sharp knife
Bowl
Spoon
Griddle

Procedure
Cut the corn kernels off the cob and grind in a blender together with the egg yolk, sliced onion, baking soda, sugar, salt, and butter.

Heat the griddle and grease lightly with lard. Pat the corn dough into rounds approximately 4" in diameter and 1/4" thick. Grill until golden brown on one side; flip and grill until golden brown on the other side. Be sure to keep the grill well-greased with lard or the dough will stick.

Serve with pure Mexican crema (or substitute creme fraiche) and a salsa de mesa muy picante (a really hot table sauce).

Provecho!

Fonda Marceva
Calle Abasolo 455
Centro Histórico
Morelia, Michoacán
Reservations: 443-312-1666
Hours:
9:00 AM until 6:00 PM Monday through Sunday
Breakfast buffet on Sunday until 3:00PM

Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours

27 de June de 2020
Adobo de Cerdo Huasteco, from the Cookbook “Verde Blanco y Rojo” by Ricardo Muñoz Zurita

Roma tomatoes and onion quarters toasting on a comal (in this case, a cast iron griddle). That little tomato on the right looks downright happy to be toasting.

Several years ago, Mexico Cooks! was thrilled to receive a copy of Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's newest recetario (cookbook), titled Verde, Blanco, y Rojo en la Cocina Mexicana. Due to the pressures back then (February 2011) of moving and settling into a new and somewhat more frenetic life in Mexico City, the very attractive book sat patiently in the kitchen bookshelf with its 150 or so brother and sister cookbooks, waiting to be chosen. 'Choose me, choose me!' it whispered each time I passed by the shelf. And finally I listened.

Serving-size pieces of maciza de cerdo (lean, fresh pork leg) simmering with onion and garlic.

My friends and I are very fond of traditional Mexican cuisine. Like most people, we have our favorite dishes. And like most people, I have a hard time breaking habits and wading into a new cookbook: it means learning a new format, a new organization of ingredients, and a new dish that I had never prepared.

The first task was reading the recipe all the way through to the end to make sure that I had all of the ingredients and utensils on hand prior to starting to cook and that I understood the order of cooking. It's really no fun at all to start the preparations and discover at the time of need that oops, there is no garlic and ouch, that one bowl I really wanted to use is full of last night's stew. You'll want to organize yourself and prepare your mise en place (all ingredients in place, ready to cook) well before you turn on the stove.

Differentiating between dried chiles ancho and chiles mulato can be confusing. If you open a chile ancho and hold it up to the light, it looks from the inside like red stained glass. The mulato, on the other hand, looks brown when held to the light. It's immediately apparent which this is. Always try to buy chiles that are leathery and flexible, not brittle.

Ingredients
2 kg (approximately 4.5 pounds) lean pork meat, cut into serving-size pieces
1 white onion, cut into quarters
1 head of garlic, split in half
4 liters water
6 tsp salt
8 chiles guajillo
5 large chiles ancho
3 large tomatos, roasted
1/2 white onion, quartered and roasted
5 garlic cloves
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dry Mexican oregano, crumbled
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
4 cloves
3 Tbsp pork lard (you can substitute oil if you can't get real, freshly rendered lard)
1/2 cup white vinegar

Utensils
Comal or griddle
Mesh strainer
Several small or medium-size mixing bowls
Mixing spoons
Heavy-bottom pot with lid
Blender

Toasting the chiles ancho on the comal.

Toasting the chiles guajillo on the comal.

Procedure
Put the pork, onion, and head of garlic in a large pot. Cover with water, add 4 tsp salt and bring to a boil. Lower the heat until the water is down to a simmer and cook until the pork is tender, about an hour. Remove the pork from the water, drain the liquid into a bowl, and reserve both the meat and the cooking liquid for later use.

Remove the stems, seeds, and veins from all of the chiles and discard them. Lightly toast the chiles on the comal, being careful not to burn them. If they turn black, they will be bitter. Soak the toasted chiles in four cups of the reserved cooking liquid from the pork.

Both types of toasted chiles are then soaked for a few minutes in some of the freshly cooked hot pork broth. Both types of chile are very mild on the spicy spectrum, and both are extremely flavorful and complement one another.

Blend the soaked chiles with enough of the cooking liquid to make a smooth, somewhat liquid paste.

Roast the tomatoes, onions, and garlic on the comal, then blend them until they make a very smooth sauce. If necessary for blending, add just a little of the reserved meat cooking liquid. Using the wire mesh strainer, strain into a bowl and reserve.

The mix of various seasonings (foreground), the blended and strained chiles (left rear) and the blended tomato/onion/garlic mixture (right rear).

Using a spice grinder or your blender, grind the cumin, the oregano, the pepper, and the cloves together until they are powdered. Set aside for later use.

Over a high flame, heat the lard or oil in a heavy-bottomed pot until it smokes slightly. Add the ground chiles (splatter alert!) and fry for about 15 minutes or until the mixture is reduced by about one-fourth. Add the blended tomato mixture, the spices, and two tablespoons of salt. When the mixture comes to a boil, lower the fire and allow to simmer until the sauce has reduced a little.

The pork now needs to simmer in the adobo for an hour or more, either in the oven or over a very low fire. The fragrance will drive you crazy, it is so tantalizing.  Mexico Cooks! prepared this recipe on top of the stove using the cast iron comal as a heat diffuser.

Add the meat, the vinegar, and three cups of the reserved meat cooking liquid. Correct the seasonings and cook with the lid ajar over low heat (or bake covered in a 350° oven) for about an hour. The finished sauce should be thick enough to cover the meat without sliding off the pieces.

Adobo de cerdo huasteco, ready to eat! Serve the dish with steamed white rice and plenty of hot-off-the-comal corn tortillas.

The finished recipe also freezes very well.  Mexico Cooks! served half the recipe as comida for six and froze the rest for a later meal.

Serves 12.

The wonderful Spanish-language Verde, Blanco, Rojo en La Cocina Mexicana, written by my friend Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita of Restaurante Azul/Condesa, Restaurante Azul y Oro, and Restaurante Azul Histórico.

Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

13 de June de 2020
Cold Drinks That Tell a Story :: Typical Regional Beverages in Mexico

If you've shopped at any of Mexico's thousands of tianguis (street markets), municipal markets, or fairs, you may have wondered what certain vendors were ladling out of their frosty glass jugs. Those are aguas frescas, made in every fresh fruit flavor you can imagine. In general, these fruit waters are made from purified water and are safe to drink. The aguas frescas in the photo are at Aguas de Casilda, Mercado Benito Juárez, in the city of Oaxaca. This large, beautiful stand is an icon in Oaxaca.

In addition to aguas frescas, there are numerous fresh or fermented drinks along Mexico's way. At various hole-in-the-wall supper restaurants, pineapple tepache is the order of the day, served fizzing with a pinch of bicarbonate of soda. And on the outskirts of one small town as you drive toward Guadalajara, a sign hangs from a guamúchil tree. It reads "Aquí Se Vende Pajarete" (Pajarete Sold Here) and advertises yet another unusual beverage.

Along many highways and byways, you'll regularly see someone selling aguamiel and pulque, the ancient drink of the Aztecs, offered from large jars positioned on a tiny table. By the same token, pulque, both unflavored and curado (flavored with fruit, vegetables, or nuts) is a favorite in bars called pulquerías.

Tuba

Tuba vendor, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco.

If you've wandered along the magical beaches bordering Mexico's western coastlines, you may have noticed a man with a yoke-like pole across his shoulders, a red painted gourd suspended from the pole by a rope. His cry is "Tuba! Tubaaaaaaaaaaa!" and his hands are full of plastic cups.

In Mexico, tuba is primarily a coastal drink. Several years ago I was surprised to see a tuba vendor at a tianguis in Guadalajara. Later I started seeing the same man selling tuba in Tlaquepaque, and at the Thursday and Sunday artisans' tianguis in Tonalá. If you happen to be in the area, look for him—he's easy to spot, with his bright-red gourd of tuba suspended from a pole across his shoulders.

A glassful of tuba, served with freshly chopped apple, salted peanuts, and ice.

Coconut palm sap is fermented to make the clear, white, sweet wine called tuba. To collect the sap, workers climb the palm tree in the morning and evening and bruise the coconut flower stalk until it starts to ooze its liquid. The stalk is tied with bamboo strips into a special bamboo container to catch the sap. Crushed tanbark from the mangrove tree is dropped into the container to give the sap a reddish color and to hasten its fermentation. As many as three flowers from one coconut tree can be made to yield sap. Each flower produces tuba for two months, after which it dries out and is cut from the tree.

The liquid actually begins to ferment while still in the bamboo container on the tree, but the alcohol content increases considerably with longer fermentation. Tuba quenches the thirst, is good for indigestion, and makes conversation flow easily.

Tejuino

Since long-ago times, cooling tejuino has refreshed Mexico. It's made from the same corn masa (dough) that's used for tortillas and tamales. The prepared masa is mixed with water and piloncillo (cone-shaped Mexican brown sugar) and boiled until the liquid is quite thick. It's then allowed to ferment slightly—but just slightly. I've never known anyone to get so much as a buzz from sipping a cupful of cold tejuino.

Tejuino vendor, Tlaquepaque, Jalisco.

Once the tejuino is thickened and fermented, it's mixed as needed with freshly squeezed jugo de limón (key lime juice), a pinch of salt, water, ice, and a big scoop of lemon sherbet. Just about everywhere in Mexico, it's sold in plastic glasses—small, medium, and large—or in a plastic bag with the top knotted around a drinking straw.

Some people say that tejuino is an acquired taste. I acquired the taste for it the very first time I tried it and often crave it on hot afternoons. There is nothing more refreshing. Fortunately, there was a tejuino vendor just a block from my house in Guadalajara, so I could buy a glassful when the spirit moved me. Cup after cup of freshly prepared tejuino is ladled out to customers every day. Although tejuino is only a slightly sweet drink, the masa base makes tejuino very filling. A small glass is usually very satisfying.

Tejate

Tejate, a cold and foamy nixtamal-ized corn and chocolate drink, is particular to Oaxaca, especially found in the city's markets and in the small towns all around the area. Tejate is very refreshing on a hot day at the market–in this case, at the weekly market in Zaachila, Oaxaca. Compare the size of the jícara (the red enameled bowl afloat in the tejate) to the size of this very large clay vessel.

Tepache

I've found tepache in several cenadurías (restaurants open for supper only, usually from 7:30 PM until midnight) in Mexico, as well as at street stands and, occasionally, market stands. Tepache is simple to make and the ingredients are readily available whether you live North or South of the Border. You might like to try this at home.

Tepache (teh-PAH-cheh)
1 whole pineapple (about 3 pounds)
3 quarts water
1 pound piloncillo or brown sugar
1 cinnamon stick, approximately 3" long
3 cloves

Wash the skin of the pineapple well. Cut off the stem end and discard. Leave the skin on the pineapple and cut the entire fruit into large pieces.

Place the pieces of pineapple in a large container and add two quarts of water, the piloncillo or brown sugar, the cinnamon, and the cloves. Cover and allow to rest in a warm place for approximately 48 hours. The longer you allow the liquid and fruit to rest, the more it will ferment. If you let it sit for longer than 48 hours, taste it periodically to make sure it is not overly fermented, as it will go bad.

Strain the liquid—the tepache—and add the last quart of water.

If you prefer, do not add the last quart of water. Instead, add one cup of beer and allow to rest for another 12 hours.

Strain again and, if you have used the beer, add three cups of water.

Serve cold with ice cubes.

Tepache vendor, Zihuatanejo. You can ask for it plain, or preparado. Preparado includes chamoy (a spicy, sweet, and sour flavor), jugo de limón (fresh-squeezed key lime juice) and some extra chile for spiciness.

At any cenaduría, you can ask for your tepache with a pinch of bicarbonate of soda. You can also add it at home, just before you're ready to drink a glassful. The addition makes the tepache fizz and bubble, and it's said to be extremely good for the digestion. An elderly neighbor of mine swears by it as a heartburn remedy.

Pajarete

In the Mexican countryside, tequila drinking starts as soon as the sun comes up. If you drive Mexican highways early any morning—early, please, when the air is still chilly and cool gray bruma (light fog) clings to the flanks of the mountains of the Central Highlands—look for a small hand painted sign. "Aquí Se Vende Pajarete" (pah-hah-REH-teh) is all it says. The sign may hang from a tree, it may be tacked to a fencepost, and you won't see any indication of a cart or stand.

Aquí se vende pajarete: Pajarete sold here!

Away from the road, behind the trees, past the bushes, just over there by that old wrecked pickup truck, a dairy farmer milks his cows. As he milks the patient cows and they snuffle their hot breath into the misty morning, groups of men (sombrero-wearing men who are real men) gather around the cow lot, each man with his large clay mug. Into each mug go a stiff shot of either charanda (a sugar cane alcohol), mezcal, or tequila, a bit of sugar and some cinnamon-laden Mexican chocolate grated from a round tablet. The mug is then filled with warm milk, freshly squeezed directly into the mug–straight from the cow. More a body-temperature drink than a cold drink, that's pajarete: breakfast of champions.

I don't expect you to whip up most of these six popular drinks in your home kitchen, but I thought you'd love knowing about some of Mexico's really unusual cold drinks.

There are many more interesting and unusual drinks in Mexico, everything from A (acachú, a drink that sounds like a sneeze, made near Puebla from the capulín (wild cherry) to Z (zotol, made in Chihuahua from the sap of wild yucca). Wherever you are in Mexico, you'll find something fascinating to quench your thirst, make you feel more at home in the culture, and give you a story to tell.

A toast to each of you: Salud, dinero, y amor, y tiempo para gozarlos. Health, money, and love, and time to enjoy them.

Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

6 de June de 2020
Simona Barra Saludable in Morelia, Michoacán :: Discovering a Restaurant During the Pandemic Lockdown

The exterior of Simona Barra Saludable during lockdown. Photo courtesy Voofla, Morelia Pet Friendly.

Morelia, Michoacán–where Mexico Cooks! lives–has been under quarantine for several weeks due to the novel coronavirus, and is currently under full-on lockdown. The government's list of essential services that can remain open is fairly short, and the list of who's allowed outside includes only people who work for those services. The list of private citizens who are allowed to go out for medicines, food, or banking is even shorter. This is the case pretty much everywhere in the world right now, and options for discovering unknown eating places are limited, to say the least. To my considerable surprise, yesterday I had that pleasure.

A word to the wise: due to the pandemic, we have not been to the restaurant. Nevertheless, the restaurant came to us!

Luisa and the huge wicker basket of marvelous breakfast foods that Simona Barra Saludable brought to our home yesterday morning.

For a surprise breakfast to celebrate a special occasion, Luisa, who was looking around online, spotted a restaurant offering home delivery. The project director, Josvi Luna Silva, sent her their menus. Unbeknownst to me, Luisa placed a breakfast order to be delivered to our home. Clueless, I asked her on Thursday what she might like me to prepare for breakfast on Friday morning. "Don't worry about it," she said, flashing her glorious smile. "I'm in charge of breakfast. And no, don't ask."

Center: yoghurt with granola and fruits. Both sides: combo of orange/carrot juice. Photo courtesy Simona Barra Saludable.

At ten o'clock Luisa set the breakfast table. At 10:15 the doorbell rang. At 10:17, I walked into the dining room to discover her holding an enormous wicker basket filled with containers: two biodegradable black takeout boxes, two tall glasses full of a beautiful dark-orange juice, a mysterious small paper bag, little clear-plastic cups filled with–salsas? They didn't look like salsas, but what? A clear-topped container with what might have been–I couldn't tell! She sat me down and started taking everything out of the basket!

Left: four enchiladas verdes with chicken. Right: a LOT of chilaquiles rojos.

Here's what we discovered:
–a blend of fresh orange/carrot juice
–yoghurt with granola and seasonal fruits (locally grown blueberries, red raspberries, and blackberries)
–a huge amount of chilaquiles in red salsa, topped with cream, crumbled cheese, and thinly sliced red onions
–another box of chicken enchiladas in green salsa
–a half-order of waffles and and their syrups (in those clear-plastic cups!)
–a stack of three small pancakes, prepared with finely ground coffee and stone-ground chocolate beans in the flour and topped with pecans, berries, and cacao nibs
–two tall cups filled with hot coffee

An order of three really marvelous hot cakes.

My jaw dropped to see these beautiful dishes. Every presentation was perfect, and what we ate was exquisite, prepared with the best local ingredients and freshly made to Luisa's order. You readers know that I can be a bit snarky about how food is prepared, but I could find nothing that could have been better "if only they had…".

We did our best, but we couldn't finish everything. But how lucky is that: we put the leftovers away for later!

Not only was the food impeccable, but the service was as well. Our breakfast arrived on the dot of its appointed hour. And the prices are truly accessible and fair. The photo above is one part of the restaurant's April-May menu. Photo courtesy Simona Barra Saludable. Click on the photo to enlarge for a clearer view.

The staff at Simona Barra Saludable is fully professional, and it shows. Sra. Claudia Peredo Rincón is the owner of the space; Chef Jonathan Rangel Hidalgo, who heads up the kitchen, graduated from CEDVA, a professional working center in Morelia which offers a degree in gastronomy. Josvi Luna Silva, the director of the restaurant project, graduated from the Colegio Culinario de Morelia with a culinary degree. Among the three of them–and with their staff–they have created a marvelous option for all of us who appreciate really careful, creative, and professionally prepared meals.

Are you tired of cooking? Do you want a wonderful option in Morelia, for breakfast or for midday? Let's help Simona Barra Saludable survive the lockdown. Call them today, or tomorrow, or any day next week starting on Tuesday. You can pick up your meal, or they'll take it to you. Or you can order from Rappi, if you have that app. You'll be so happy that you called–and by all means, tell them that Mexico Cooks! sent you. You're going to love it.

Simona Barra Saludable
Calle Santiago Tapia 679
Centro Histórico
Morelia 58000
Michoacán
Tel. 443-355-3366
Hours: 9:00AM – 4:00PM (during the current coronavirus lockdown). Take out or home delivery ONLY.
Tuesday through Sunday
8:00AM – 8:00PM (normal hours once this lockdown is over).
Monday through Sunday

Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

25 de April de 2020
Rajas con Crema :: Chile Poblano Strips with Cream, A Mexican Classic

The chile poblano is one of the most commonly used fresh chiles in Mexico's kitchen. A very large, fleshy chile, it can measure as much as seven or eight inches long. The stem end is much wider than the point, and the color ranges from dark green to almost black-green. Shopping tip: if you buy chiles poblano that are flat on all sides, they will roast more quickly than if they are deeply creased in spots. The flat sides will evenly touch the roasting surface.

The chile poblano is commonly used for preparing main dishes such as chiles rellenos, including the seasonal and festive chiles en nogada. It is also used for making rajas de chile poblano con crema (strips of chile poblano with cream), a marvelously flavorful vegetable side dish. All photos by Mexico Cooks! unless otherwise noted.

To prepare chiles poblano for use in any recipe, wash and roast them. Don't try to use them with the peel on; the peels will be as tough as trying to chew through plastic. Mexico Cooks! uses a cast iron comal (griddle) placed over a high flame to roast as many as four to six chiles at a time. Other cooks prefer to roast these chiles one at a time over an open flame, or on a broiler pan in a slightly open oven. No matter which roasting method you use, the roasted chiles should look like the ones in the above photo. Photo courtesy Maura Hernández.

Once the chiles are roasted, put them in a plastic bag, twist it shut, and allow the chiles to 'sweat' for 10 to 15 minutes. You'll easily be able to remove the blackened peels. It's best not to rinse them–or rinse them only a little–as rinsing removes a good bit of the delicious chile poblano flavor.

After you have peeled your roasted chiles, they will look like this. If just a bit of toasted peel sticks to the chile, it will simply add another layer of flavor to your dish. Click on the photo to enlarge and better see the remaining blackened bits of peel.

Make a slit down the full length of each chile and cut off its stem end. Remove the seeds by brushing them into a trash receptacle.

Chiles poblano, roasted, peeled, and laid flat on a cutting board. The next step is to slice them into strips–rajas, in Spanish.

Rajas, ready to prepare and serve. For this meal, Mexico Cooks! used three large chiles to prepare a side dish for two people.

The ingredients include half a white onion, sliced very thin, and about one-third of a large sweet red pepper, diced. Sauté in hot oil until soft and translucent. Mexican cooks normally use fresh corn kernels in this recipe; I happened to have no fresh corn on hand, but I did have part of a sweet red pepper that needed to be cooked, so I used that instead.

Peppers and onions, ready for the addition of the chile strips!

Continue to sauté the vegetables until the chiles are soft. Because the chile strips are already roasted, the sauté process will not take long. You do not want your rajas to be over-cooked; they should still be bright green at the end of cooking.

Add about half a cup of crema para la mesa (Mexican table cream or creme fraiche–NOT sour cream) to the vegetable mix. Stir until well incorporated.

The cream will become a thick sauce for the vegetables. Salt to taste. The chile poblano is generally quite mild and flavorful, but once in a while you will come across one that is surprisingly spicy. There's no way to tell by looking at them whether they are mild or hot, and either way they're delicious and not overly 'hot'.

Mexico Cooks! served the rajas de chile poblano con crema alongside strips of a very large chicken breast, lightly dusted with salted flour and sautéed in olive oil seasoned with a smashed clove of garlic. This chicken breast half, which weighed nearly a pound, made ten strips and was plenty for the two of us for our main meal of the day. This simple meal was easy and delicious.

Provecho! (Good eating!)

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18 de April de 2020
Teocintle Maíz, Best Restaurant in Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico

Restaurante Teocintle Maíz, at the corner of Calle Miguel Blanco and Calle Constitución, Ajijic, Jalisco. You could have knocked me over with the proverbial feather. This charming restaurant is about three doors from where I once lived, more than 20 years ago. Back then, the location was called La Frontera, a tiny corner grocery store, owned by my wonderful neighbors don Alfredo Villaseñor and his wife, doña Simona Pineda (may they rest in peace). Today, Gloria Rodríguez Villaseñor, a delightful young woman and granddaughter of my longtime friends the grocers, operates Restaurante Teocintle Maíz together with her life (and business) partner, Ricardo Robles.

A couple of memories:

The wall of the house where I once lived on Calle Miguel Blanco. The wall is all that one one sees from the street–a Mexican street-side wall is usually very plain, giving away nothing of what might be just inside the door. I planted that beautiful vine when it was a baby vine, in about 2000. When I lived in the house, it was simple but comfortable, with lots of character. Now–I don't know what the house behind the wall looks like.

Open the street door and here's the lovely garden. My gardener and dear friend, Jorge Velázquez (RIP), worked with me to make barren, muddy ground into a showcase in the late 1990s. The current owner has made a few changes–the old orange tree is gone, the gazebo at the back left used to be a fountain, that stone retaining wall is new–but the form is pretty much what Jorge and I created.

Fast forward to July 6, 2018:

Where there once were shelves filled with cans of chiles and soups, boxes of laundry detergent, crates of eggs sold by weight, bottled soft drinks, boxes of juice, infant formula and disposable diapers, and doña Simona reading a book on her stool behind the counter, we have the cozy interior of Restaurante Teocintle Maíz. The rooms were beautifully created on a shoestring by Gloria and Ricardo, and the restaurant opened just over 18 months ago.

Today, Teocintle Maíz is listed on TripAdvisor as the #1 restaurant in Ajijic. Here, it's casa llena–full house–and it's almost always like that, especially for dinner in the evening. If you want a reservation, call ahead–way ahead! It's that popular, both with Mexican locals, with the large expatriate community in Ajijc, and with visitors to the area.

Ricardo Robles manages Teocintle Maíz, works the front of the house, and is an excellent host. He has also built a great deal of the furniture in the restaurant, including this beautiful table. The table was delivered the day I was there.

Ajijic is a picturesque little town on the north shore of Lake Chapala, about an hour south of Guadalajara. The town is filled with life-long Mexican residents, a large quantity of gentrified shops and galleries, 200+ restaurants and innumerable street food stands. It suffers from horrendous traffic and boasts a very large population of foreign retirees who are alway looking for the next good place to eat. Several friends had told me about this delightful restaurant, and a few weeks ago, I was able to sneak in without a reservation, just before closing time, to see what all the buzz was about. I was, quite frankly, as dubious as I usually am about reportedly great restaurants, especially in the hinterlands.

The lovely and extremely talented chef Gloria Rodríguez Villaseñor is in charge of the kitchen at Teocintle Maíz. We chatted for a few minutes and she asked if I'd had supper. No…  She sat me at a little table by a window and gave me the menu. R
icardo came to take my order, and I asked him to choose something for me. "I prefer traditional Mexican food over modern Mexican food, and I leave myself in your hands."

My magnificent supper: one of the most traditional meals from Jalisco, the chamorro (pork shank), accompanied by superb, lardy, frijolitos refritos, arroz a la mexicana, avocado slices, and house-made corn tortillas. Chamorro is cooked over very low heat in a spicy red sauce until it is fall-off-the-bone tender. This one was perfect–no ifs, ands, or buts, perfect–and I ate the whole enormous thing. When you go, order it–and you'll eat the whole enormous thing, too. And the beans! It's extraordinary to be served beans of this quality: home-style, smooth and well-fried in just enough lard to make you think you've gone to what I've heard called 'hog heaven'. The tortillas were corny and delicious, and wrapped in a napkin as God intended. To drink, I had a refreshing house-made, just-sweet-enough agua fresca de jamaica ('fresh water', made from roselle, a type of hibiscus).

Chef Gloria studied at the acclaimed Centro Educativo Jaltepec and now gives courses at that culinary school. Her resumé shows tremendous drive and direction; she is extremely accomplished in all facets of a person moving toward a specific goal: owning a restaurant of her own. She has worked with the most outstanding and talented chefs in the Lake Chapala and Guadalajara area, and always with the goal to succeed and move forward. It's a joy to see that she absolutely knows what she's doing, both in the kitchen and in the front of the house, and yet is very humble about her accomplishments and her talents.

Fast forward to 2020: about 10 days ago, I was once again visiting friends in Ajijic and had the tremendous experience of two meals at Teocintle Maíz, once for comida (Mexico's midday main meal of the day) and once for cena (supper).

At both comida and cena, my companions and I ordered guacamole to share. Silky smooth and served with panela cheese, it is the perfect start for your meal.

For comida, my main dish was Jalisco-style birria (long-braised goat meat). It was simply heavenly: just spicy enough, served with a pitcher of its own consomé (the liquid it was simmered in), a bowl of perfectly cooked rice, and topped with edible nasturtium blossoms, a long house-made banana chip, and avocado slices. I ate it first with a fork, then with a soup spoon, and finally sopped up the consomé with native corn tortillas made on the premises.

At cena the next night, my companion ordered coconut shrimp served with sautéd mixed vegetables and freshly made mashed potatoes. She graciously allowed me to eat one of the shrimp. Crunchy with coconut, fried to just the right state of done-ness, the shrimp was sweet enough but not too sweet, the vegetables were perfectly cooked, the potatoes were flavorful and creamy. What more could a person as for?

I ordered the ribeye steak served with a baked potato; I asked the wait staff to ask that the steak be cooked between rare and medium rare, thinking my usual, "It will probably be be cooked medium to well-done." Oh ye of little faith! The steak was perfectly seared and right in the middle between rare and medium rare. The outside edges were crispy with blackened fat, the meat itself was silky and delicious. It's very, very difficult to find a piece of beef like this in most of Mexico, and I rarely order any kind of steak when I'm dining out. But this? Even the photo makes my mouth water.

The restaurant's multiple uses of corn bring me to the name of the restaurant: why Teocintle Maíz? It's not an easy name for Ajijic's foreign community to pronounce, many Mexicans have no idea what it means, and the evening I was there Ricardo and chef Gloria called the kitchen staff into the dining r
oom to talk about teocintle–and to show them what it is. What you see in the photo above is my 'trademark'–an actual mazorca (ear) of the ancient grain that was domesticated approximately 8,000 to 11,000 years ago by Mexico's Stone Age people to become what we know today as corn. Teocintle the wild grain still exists in Mexico; several years ago, a friend of mine cultivated quite a lot of it and was able to harvest a zillion seeds and 10 whole ears. He framed those 10 whole ears in silver, and I wear mine as a necklace every day–first, because I love it, and second, because it is a teaching tool about corn's domestication. I was touched to the heart to know that this small restaurant in this tiny town is named for the thousands of years old grain that became Mexico's heritage food and gift to the entire world. You can read more about that here.

At the end of the evening, Ricardo, Mexico Cooks!, and chef Gloria posed for posterity. We had a wonderful time together. When I first went to Teocintle Maíz, it was rated Number One in Ajijic on TripAdvisor. Ten days ago, when I went back, I discovered that it is still rated Number One and truly deserving of the rating.

A menu board announces each day's offerings. Clients truly rave about everything, and I need to go back soon to try some other dishes. Meantime, until I can get there, you go. Tell them Mexico Cooks! sent you. You'll be so glad you went.

Restaurante Teocintle Maíz
Constitución 52, at the corner of Miguel Blanco
Ajijic, Jalisco
01 33 1547 8968 for hours and reservations

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7 de March de 2020
Where in the World is Mexico Cooks!? A Look Back at Our 2019 Wanderings.

In February, Mexico Cooks! returned to live once again in Morelia, Michoacán. It's been a joyful return, to the welcome of wonderful old friends, well-remembered streets and markets, and the beautiful colonial city itself. I found a terrific house in Morelia's Centro Histórico, walking distance to most anywhere I need to go. You can expect to hear a lot more from me in the months to come about the cuisines, customs, and creativity of the people of Michoacán. The photo above is Morelia's Cathedral by the light of the full moon.

Workshop for creating a flavored salt. In a volcanic stone molcajete (that's part of it, in the photo), I ground roasted maguey worms, dehydrated pineapple, sea salt, and a chile de árbol or two. The flavor of mine was just so-so; a fellow behind me made a fantastic salt, flavored with a roasted scorpion. Who knew! Each of us participants got to bring our salt home in a test tube.

Late this spring, a friend and I traveled to San Miguel de Allende, where we saw friends and tried some of San Miguel's many restaurants. My personal favorite meal was brunch at Marsala: Cocina con Acentos, a truly innovative and delicious Mediterranean niche in the center of the city. The photo shows my plate of Marsala-style eggs Benedict, accompanied by a bottomless mimosa. In addition to a full menu of brunch choices, one is also invited to partake of the buffet of freshly baked scones, cheese biscuits, marmalades, a magnificent house-made terrine, and a number of other take-what-you want items. I can't wait to go back!

One of the highlights of the trip to San Miguel de Allende was the opportunity to meet in person a man I have long admired from afar. Charles Hall manages Rose Anne Hall Designs, a highly successful family business which produces mouth-blown glass items for the home, as well as the most beautiful hand-made candles in Mexico. Under Charlie's direction, the business dedicates itself to hiring people with disabilities–or what would appear to be disabilities–but who are enabled by the opportunity to create. Charlie is a businessman, a philosopher, and a humorist, and a wonderful human being.

In the lovely traditional kitchen of good friends in Santa Fe de la Laguna. It's always a privilege to be with them.

Cocido, or caldo de res, in my own kitchen and ready to serve. So simple, and so delicious.

Embarcadero San Pedro near twilight, Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.

If you've been reading Mexico Cooks! for very long, you know that I have a strange fascination with pig heads. The staff at this market booth are all great people and love showing off their wares. This handsome fellow has a mouthful of alfalfa. They are also a bunch of goofballs: they always encourage my market tour clients to kiss the snout–and I must say that in the spirit of fun, quite a few do!

These miniature chairs–about the size to seat a one-year-old baby–were all but viral on Facebook when I uploaded the photo. Turned upside down with potted plants on the bottoms of the straw seats, the chairs make a charming entrance into my home.

Last–but definitely not least–was my outrageously wonderful end-of-June birthday party, with the crowning touch of this spectacular cake. A huge shout-out to the Colegio Culinario de Morelia, to chef Joaquín Bonilla, to chef Juan Carlos Montaño, and to the crew who brought and served this marvelous creation. Between the delicious cake, the just-right frosting, the assortment of cookies and candies–and gold leaf!–that decorated the masterpiece, party guests were thrilled and so was the birthday girl. Such a wonderful birthday gift! Mil gracias a todos ustedes del Colegio!

Come back next week for a look at the rest of Mexico Cooks!' year 2019.

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16 de November de 2019
Birriería Chololo Campestre :: Mexico Cooks! Favorite Birria

This week, Mexico Cooks! has once again cranked up the way-back machine for a trip down Memory Lane. This article, and the articles for the last two weeks, are from 2008. The Guadalajara newspaper El Mural asked me to give their reporter a food tour of Guadalajara "as if it were for tourists", and we had a fantastic time going places the reporter and the photographer had never been–in their own city. A short while after the tour, Mexico Cooks! was the big news on the first and subsequent pages of Buena Mesa, El Mural's food section. Here's the last part of the story of where we went and what we ate.

As you drive south of the Guadalajara airport, near the exit for El Salto, you'll see the green tile domes of Birriería Chololo on the west side of the highway. Be sure to stop!

One tiny part of the interior of Birriería Chololo Campestre. The restaurant seats up to 1000 people at a time.

Don Javier Torres Ruíz, grandson of Isidro Torres Hernández, made Birriería Chololo a Guadalajara icon. Don Isidro started the original business selling birria from his bicycle on the side of a street in .

Over 80 years ago, Birriería Chololo started life as a street stand, operated by . His grandson, Javier Torres Ruíz, made a huge success of the family business. Today, there are three Birrierías Chololo run by Don Javier's eight children, grandchildren, and other relatives and the Chololo campestre (countryside), managed by don Fidel Torres Ruiz, is the busiest of the batch. The restaurant, which seats 1000 people (yes, 1000) and turns the tables four times every Sunday, is closed only on the Fridays of Lent and on Christmas Day. Every other day of the year, it's a goat feast.

Birria and frijolitos refritos con queso, for two people. A bowl of consomé is in the background.

The offerings at Birriería Chololo (Chololo is a nickname for Isidro) are pure simplicity. Birria de chivo (goat), consomé (the rich goat broth), frijolitos con queso (refried beans with melted cheese), salsa de molcajete (house-made salsa served in heavy volcanic stone mortars), a quesadilla here and there, and a couple of desserts are the entire bill of fare. The birria, cooked 12 to 14 hours in a clay oven, is prepared to your order, according to the number in your party. You can ask for maciza (just chunks of meat) or surtido (an assortment of meats that includes the goat's tongue, lips, stomach, and tripitas (intestines).

Each order of birria is prepared at the time it's requested. The goat meat is chopped, weighed, mopped with sauce and glazed under the salamander, then brought piping hot to the table.

Birriería Chololo raises its own animals from birth to slaughter. That way, says the founder's nephew Fidel Torres Ruiz, quality control is absolute. The restaurant butchers approximately 700 100-pound animals per week to feed the hungry multitudes.

Salsa de molcajete estilo Chololo: addictive as sin and hotter than Hades. The salsa is served directly in the molcajete (volcanic stone grinding bowl).

The full bar at Chololo serves its liquor in a way you might not have seen at your local watering hole. A bottle of your favorite tipple is set down on your table. A black mark on the open bottle's label indicates where your consumption starts, and at the end of your meal, you're charged for alcohol by the measure.

Consomé, birria, salsa de molcajete, and frijoles refritos con queso.

Some birrierías serve meat and consomé in one plate, but not El Chololo.   Consomé, the heady pot likker rendered from the goats' overnight baking, is served in its own bowl. Before you dip your spoon into the soup, add some fresh minced onions, a pinch of sea salt, a squeeze of limón, and a squirt of the other house-made salsa de chile de árbol on the table, the one in the squeeze bottle. Ask for refills of consomé–they're on the house. Just don't ask for the recipe. It's a closely guarded 100-year-old family secret.

One of the two huge clay ovens for baking birria at Chololo. At Chololo, they take the time and care to prepare the birria with a marinade made of home-made red mole, oranges, and just a touch of chocolate, to add flavor to the meat. It also means fermenting their own pineapple vinegar to give additional flavor to the caldo.

On Sundays and other festive days, roving mariachis brighten up the restaurant's ambiance. Birthday parties, First Communion parties, wedding anniversaries, and other family fiestas are all celebrated at Chololo, and nothing makes a party better than a song or two.   You'll hear Las Mañanitas (the traditional congratulatory song for every occasion) ten times on any given Sunday!

From the front door to the back garden, everything about Birriería Chololo is puro folklor mexicano and wonderfully picturesque.

Note: don Javier Torres Ruiz passed away on February 16, 2016. His family continues to maintain the 100-year-old tradition and quality at Birriería Chololo Campestre and at the restaurant's original location in Las Juntas, at the southern border of Guadalajara. "We're going to continue just as if he were still here," said don Fidel. And so they have.

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5 de October de 2019
Taco Fish La Paz :: Ensenada-Style Seafood Tacos in Guadalajara

This week, Mexico Cooks! has once again cranked up the way-back machine for a trip down Memory Lane. This article, and the articles for the next two weeks, are from 2008. The Guadalajara newspaper El Mural asked me to give their reporter a food tour of Guadalajara "as if it were for tourists", and we had a fantastic time going places the reporter and the photographer had never been–in their own city. A short while after the tour, Mexico Cooks! was the big news on the first and subsequent pages of Buena Mesa, El Mural's food section. Here's Part 2 of where we went and what we ate.

Taco Fish La Paz is just a couple of carts on the street in Guadalajara, with the kitchen across the way. Mexico Cooks! and El Mural arrived early and beat the crowds. Lines can be up to 30 people long! This famous street stand offers parking and parking assistance, necessary because of the hordes of tapatíos (Guadalajarans) who show up hungry.

This delighted tourist had just flown in from Acapulco. Taco Fish La Paz was her first stop in Guadalajara. Her drink is agua fresca de jamaica, a cold roselle flower (a kind of hibiscus) tea.

A plate of freshly made tacos de pescado (fish tacos). These are garnished with house-made cabbage and carrot slaw and cucumber slices. Taco Fish La Paz also prepares tacos de camarón (shrimp), de marlín ahumado (smoked marlin), and de jaiba (crab).

Choose your condiments and sides from the cart. You'll find chiles toreados con cebollas (chile serrano, grilled till blistered in a little oil), pickled onions, sliced cucumbers, a different slaw, and house-made salsas. Add whatever you like–or all of it–to your tacos.

Our photographer from El Mural was starving! This was his first plate of tacos, but not his last.

Next, the bottled salsa bar, including every table salsa you can imagine, plus freshly-squeezed jugo de limón (Mexican lime juice), mayonesa (mayonnaise), salsa inglesa (Worcestershire sauce), salt, and crema de mesa (table cream, for drizzling over your food), with or without chile.

Freshly fried fish and shrimp at Taco Fish La Paz. Each taco de pescado (fish taco) includes a huge piece of fish. Each taco de camarón (shrimp taco–Mexico Cooks!' favorite) includes three very large fried shrimp. The taco in the tongs is a taco dorado de jaiba–fried crab taco!

It takes hours every day to peel and de-vein the vast quantities of pristinely fresh shrimp eaten at Taco Fish La Paz.

The fish and shrimp are dipped in batter and fried, then carried across the street in tubs to the taco stand.

The day we were at Taco Fish La Paz, the youngest customer was only a month old. What a cutie pie!

Next week: Birriería Campestre Chololo

Taco Fish La Paz
Avenida La Paz 494, corner Calle Donato Guerra
Colonia Mexicaltzingo
Guadalajara
Hours: Monday through Saturday 9:00AM – 4:30PM, closed Sunday

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28 de September de 2019