Category: Religion

  • More Travels Around Mexico: Sights You’ll See Along Your Way

    Ferris Wheel, Cuanajo
    Rueda de la fortuna (ferris wheel), Cuanajo, Michoacán. Every small town, every city, has its annual fiestas patronales (patron saint's fiestas).  A ferris wheel is never an option–it's always a necessity!

    Santo Domingo Church, San Cristóbal de las Casas
    Templo Santo Domingo, San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas.  Every candle represents a prayer, whether of gratitude or petition or simple remembrance.

    Mojiganga 3
    Mojiganga (10 foot tall papel maché dance figure).  On parade, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.  This band-following girl partied hearty as she twirled her way down a cobblestone street.

    Turkey Trot
    Guajolotes callejeros (turkeys in the street), San José de las Torres, Michoacán.

    Chicharrón
    Chicharrón (fried pork skin) with small squares of meat left attached to the skin.  The creamy meat combines perfectly with the crispy skin for a big punch of flavor. Mercado de Jamaica, Mexico City.

    Cargados
    Burrita y su dueño cargados (loaded donkey and its owner) with corn stalks, Ajijic, Jalisco.  You have to look hard to see this hard-working burrita.

    Trajineras
    Trajineras (traditional boats), Xochimilco, Mexico City. There are few things more fun than a Sunday outing on the canals of Xochimilco!  It's bumper boats all the way, with a mariachi accompaniment.

    Casa San Cristóbal
    Casa particular (private home) with bougainvillea, San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas.  The dream of Mexico…

    Protect and Serve
    Tourist police at Parque Alameda Central, Centro Histórico, Mexico City. They're from the government, and they're truly here to help you.

    Pajaro de la Suerte
    Pájaro de la suerte (fortune telling canary), Morelia, Michoacán. For just a few pesos, the little bird will pull your fortune–written on a folded slip of paper–from the box to the left of its cage.  But watch out!  Do you want to see more of your fortune?  You'll have to pay again.

    Condesa Parque México Dog School
    Dog obedience school, held daily, Parque México, Colonia La Condesa, Mexico City. Dogs of every spot and stripe learn to sit, stay, and keep quiet in this canine institute of study.

    Pozole Blanco Clandestino 5-2015
    Guerrero-style pozole blanco, Mexico City.  If you love pozole and want to know where to get a spectacular bowlful like this, you'll have to come along with me. The spot has been a well-guarded secret for more than 60 years. 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Images of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Mexico::Imágenes de la Santísima Virgen María en México

    Tilma 2-08
    Patron of the Americas and Empress of Mexico: Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe).  There is no apparition of the Virgin Mary that is more highly venerated than this one.  She's known by many loving nicknames: La Morenita (the little brown woman), Paloma Blanca (white dove), and La Guadalupana (the woman from Guadalupe) are just a few.

    Dolorosa
    Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows).  This apparition of the Virgin Mary is usually seen standing at the foot of the cross where Jesus is crucified.  Dressed in black and frequently depicted with arrows piercing her heart, she is the image of pain.

    La Virgen en Tránsito, Templo de la Companía
    La Virgen en Tránsito (The Virgin in Transition).  According to Roman Catholic doctrine, when the Virgin Mary died, she was in fact merely sleeping and, after three days, was taken up to heaven, body and soul.  This 17th Century statue, from the Jesuit-founded Templo de la Companía in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, shows the recumbent Virgin after her death but prior to her assumption into heaven.

    La Santísima Camino a Belén
    La Santísima Virgen en Camino a Belén (the Blessed Virgin on the Way to Bethlehem), Cuitzeo, Michoacán.  She wears her straw traveling hat as Joseph takes her to Bethlehem, where Jesus will be born.

    Nuestra Señora de Zapopan
    Nuestra Señora de Zapopan, Basílica de Zapopan, Zapopan, Jalisco.  This 16th Century image of the Virgin Mary, made of pasta de caña: cornstalk and orchid-bulb juice paste, molded to the shape of the Virgin, covered with gesso, and polychromed.  She measures a mere 14" high.  One of her nicknames is 'La Generala' (the general) after helping troops to victory in battle in 1852.  She is the santa patrona (patron Virgin) of Guadalajara.

    Nuestra Señora de la Salud
    Nuestra Señora de la Salud, Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.  This tiny 16th Century figure, revered as the patrona of Pátzcuaro, is also made of pasta de caña.

    La Inmaculada Concepción, Jalisco
    La Inmaculada Concepción (the Immaculate Conception).  This statue of the Virgin represents the Roman Catholic doctrine of her conception without the taint of original sin.  Mexico Cooks! photographed this modern image in the Templo de la Inmaculada Concepción, Concepción de Buenos Aires, Jalisco.

    Do you have a favorite image of the Virgin Mary?  Mexico Cooks! would love to hear from you–please leave a comment! 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Santuario de Jesús el Nazareno (Sanctuary of Jesus the Nazarene), Atotonilco, Guanajuato

    Atotonilco Facade
    The facade of the mid-18th Century Jesuit church in Atotonilco is simple.  The interior of the church is astonishing.  Built between 1740 and 1776, the Santuario is still visited and revered by religious pilgrims.

    Several weeks ago, while Mexico Cooks! visited San Miguel de Allende, we took advantage of some free time to go to Atotonilco to visit the Santuario de Jesús el Nazareno (Sanctuary of Jesus the Nazarene), one of the best-kept secrets of central Mexico.  In 1996, the church was added to the World Monuments Fund, and in July of 2008, UNESCO named the Santuario to its list of World Heritage sites.

    Atotonilco Altar Principal
    The main altar in the Calvary Chapel, the largest in the church.  Sculptural figures important to Christ's Passion give visual impact to the  meditations of the faithful. A relicuary rests on the red cloth.

    The Santuario is a mixture of European Baroque and New World Mexican decoration.  It consists of a large church, and several smaller chapels, all decorated with oil paintings by Rodríguez Juárez and mural paintings by Miguel Antonio Martínez de Pocasangre.  Inspired by the doctrine of St. Ignacio de Loyola, the founder of the Companía de Jesús (the Company of Jesus, otherwise known as the Jesuits), the glowing paintings and murals in the church served in the evangelization of Nueva España, where the indigenous spoke their own languages but could neither read nor write, and where the Spanish conquistadores knew little if any of the languages they heard in the new land. 

    Atotonilco San Juan Bautista
    St. John the Baptist pours baptismal waters over Jesus as a dove, symbol of the Holy Spirt, hovers above them.  In the 18th Century, the Santuario also served as a retreat house for the Jesuits.  Pilgrims still make week-long retreats at this church, praying in a chapel reserved just for their needs.

    Atotonilco El Nazareno
    Judas Iscariot betrays Jesus with a kiss.  Note the demon monkey on Judas's back.  Every inch of the Santuario walls is covered with paintings of the many details, Biblical and apocryphal, of Jesus's life.  Nearly all (or perhaps all–stories vary) of the murals  were painted by Miguel Antonio Martínez de Pocasangre, a native of the area.  He worked for thirty years painting the murals.

    Atotonilco San Cristóbal
    St. Cristopher carries the infant Jesus on his shoulder.  Captain Ignacio Allende, for whom San Miguel de Allende is named, married María de la Luz Agustina y Fuentes in this church.  It was here, on September 16, 1810, that Miguel Hidalgo took up the standard of Our Lady of Guadalupe and bore it into battle at the beginning of the Mexican Revolution.

    Atotonilco Lady Chapel
    This side chapel, one of several at Atotonilco, is dedicated to Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary).  The mirrors that surround the figure of Our Lady are painted with oils, probably by Rodríguez Juárez.

    Atotonilco Lady Chapel Window
    Detail of the chapel window.

    Atotonilco Marian Litany 2 (better)
    Detail of the Marian litany in the Lady Chapel.

    Atotonilco Restoration
    The Santuario has been in the process of restoration since 1997.  Scaffolding still fills the church but detracts very little from the amazing paintings.

    Off the beaten tourist track, the Santuario de Jesús el Nazareno will fill your eyes and heart with wonder.  Let's plan a visit to see it together.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • El Niño Dios en el Día de la Candelaria: the Christ Child on Candlemas Day

    Niños Dios de Colores Mercado Medellín
    Niños Dios: one Christ Child, many colors: ideal for Mexico's range of skin tones. Mercado Medellín, Colonia Roma, Mexico City, December 2013. 

    For about a month prior to Christmas each year, the Niño Dios (baby Jesus) is for sale everywhere in Mexico.  Mexico Cooks! took this photograph in 2013 at the annual tianguis navideño (Christmas market) in front of the Mercado Medellín, Colonia Roma, Mexico City.  These Niños Dios range in size from just a few inches long to nearly the size of a two-year-old child.  They're sold wrapped in only a diaper.

    When does the Christmas season end in your family?  When I was a child, my parents packed the Christmas decorations away on January 1, New Year's Day.  Today, my wife and I like to enjoy the nacimientos (manger scenes), the Christmas lights, and the tree until the seventh or eighth of January, right after the Día de los Reyes Magos (the Feast of the Three Kings).  Some think that date is scandalously late.  Other people, particularly our many Mexican friends, think that date is scandalously early.  Christmas in Mexico isn't over until February 2, el Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas Day), also known as the Feast of the Presentation.

    Nacimiento Misterio 1
    The Holy Family, a shepherd and some of his goats, Our Lady of Guadalupe, an angel, a little French santon cat from Provence, and some indigenous people form a small portion of Mexico Cooks!' nacimiento.  Click on the photo to get a better look.  Note that the Virgin Mary is breast feeding the infant Jesus while St. Joseph looks on.

    Although Mexico's 21st century Christmas celebration often includes Santa Claus and a Christmas tree, the main focus of a home-style Christmas continues to be the nacimiento and the Christian Christmas story.  A family's nacimiento may well contain hundreds–even thousands–of figures, but all nacimientos have as their heart and soul the Holy Family (the Virgin Mary, St. Joseph, and the baby Jesus).  This centerpiece of the nacimiento is known as el Misterio (the Mystery).  The nacimiento is set up early–in 2013, ours was out at the very beginning of December–but the Niño Dios does not make his appearance until the night of December 24, when he is sung to and placed in the manger.

    Niño Dios Grupo Vestido
    Niños Dios at Mexico City's Mercado de la Merced.  The figures are dressed as hundreds of different saints and representations of holy people and ideas.  The figures are for sale, but most people are only shopping for new clothes for their baby Jesus.  All photos copyright Mexico Cooks! except as noted.

    Between December 24, when he is tenderly rocked to sleep and laid in the manger, and February 2, the Niño Dios rests happily in the bosom of his family.  As living members of his family, we are charged with his care.  As February approaches, a certain excitement begins to bubble to the surface.  The Niño Dios needs new clothing!  How shall we dress him this year?

    Niño Dios Ropa Tejida
    The oldest tradition is to dress the Niño Dios in hand-crocheted garments.  Photo courtesy Manos Mexicanos

    According to Christian teaching, the Virgin Mary and St. Joseph took the baby Jesus to the synagogue 40 days after his birth to introduce him in the temple–hence February 2 is also known as the Feast of the Presentation. What happy, proud mother would wrap her newborn in just any old thing to take him to church for the first time?  I suspect that this brand new holy child was dressed as much to the nines as his parents could afford.  

    Niño Dios San Juan Diego
    The Niño Dios dressed as San Juan Diego, the indigenous man who brought Our Lady of Guadalupe to the Roman Catholic Church.

    Every February 2, churches are packed with men, women, and families carrying their Niños Dios to church in his new clothes, ready to be blessed, lulled to sleep with a sweet lullaby, and tucked gently away till next year.

    Niño Dios Doctor
    The Niño Dios as el Santo Niño Doctor de los Enfermos (the holy child doctor of the sick).  He has his stethoscope, his uniform, and his doctor's bag.  This traditionally dressed baby Jesus has origins in mid-20th century in the city of Puebla.

    Niño Dios Ángel Gabriel
    Every year new and different clothing for the Niño Dios comes to market.  In 2011, the latest fashions were those of the Archangels–in this case, the Archangel Gabriel.

    Niño Dios San Martín de Porres
    The Niño Dios dressed as Peruvian San Martín de Porres, the patron saint of racially mixed people and all those seeking interracial harmony.

    Niño Dios de la Eucaristía
    Niño Dios de la Eucaristía (Holy Child of the Eucharist).

    Niño Dios San Benito
    Niño Dios dressed as San Benito, the founder of the Benedictine Order.

    Niño Dios del Chinelo
    Niño Dios dressed as a Chinelo (costumed dancer from the state of Morelos).

    Niño Dios de la Abundancia
    Niño Dios de la Abundancia (Holy Child of Abundance).

    The ceremony of removing the baby Jesus from the nacimiento is called the levantamiento (lifting up).  In a family ceremony, the baby is raised from his manger, gently dusted off, and dressed in his new finery.  Some families sing:

    QUIERES QUE TE QUITE MI BIEN DE LAS PAJAS, (Do you want me to brush off all the straw, my beloved)
    QUIERES QUE TE ADOREN TODOS LOS PASTORES, (Do you want all the shepherds to adore you?)
    QUIERES QUE TE COJA EN MIS BRAZOS Y CANTE (Do you want me to hold you in my arms and sing)
    GLORIA A DIOS EN LAS ALTURAS.  (Glory to God on high).

    Niño Dios San Judas Tadeo
    One of the most popular 'looks' for the Niño Dios in Mexico City is that of San Judas Tadeo, the patron saint of impossible causes.  He is always dressed in green, white, and gold and has a flame coming from his head.

    Niño Dios Vestido
    Mexico Cooks!' very own Niño Dios.  He measures just 7" from the top of his head to his wee toes.  His new finery is very elegant.

    [youtube=://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4rcQDmyffo&w=420&h=236] 
    This lovely video from Carapan, Michoacán shows both the gravity and the joy (and the confetti!) with which a Niño Dios is carried to the parish church.

    Carefully, carefully carry the Niño Dios to the parish church, where the priest will bless him and his new clothing, along with you and your family.  After Mass, take the baby Jesus home and put him safely to rest till next year's Christmas season.  Sweet dreams of his next outfit will fill your own head as you sleep that night.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Mexican Traditions from the Day of the Three Kings to Candelaria

    Rosca_de_reyes
    Most Mexicans eat traditional rosca de reyes (Three Kings' Bread) on January 6.  Its usual accompaniment is chocolate caliente (hot chocolate) made in the traditional way–with water, not milk.

    The Día de los Reyes Magos (the Feast of the Three Kings) falls on January 6 each year.  You might know the Christian feast day as Epiphany or as Little Christmas.  The festivities celebrate the arrival of the Three Kings at Bethlehem to visit the newborn Baby Jesus.  In some cultures, children receive gifts not on Christmas, but on the Feast of the Three Kings–and the Kings are the gift-givers, commemorating the gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh that they presented to the Baby Jesus. Many, many children in Mexico still receive special gifts of toys from the Reyes (Kings) on January 6

    Typically, Mexican families celebrate the festival with a rosca de reyes (Three Kings' Bread).  The size of the family's rosca varies according to the size of the family, but everybody gets a slice, from the littlest toddler to great-grandpa.  Accompanied by a cup of chocolate caliente (hot chocolate), it's a great winter treat. 

    Chef Arturo Camacho Domínguez
    Chef Arturo Camacho Domínguez of Tampico, Tamaulipas.

    My friend, chef Arturo Camacho Domínguez, who lives and works in Tampico, Tamaulipas, recently wrote a bit about the significance of the rosca.  He wrote, "The rosca de reyes represents a crown; the colorful fruits simulate the jewels which covered the crowns of the Holy Kings.  The Kings themselves signify peace, love, and happiness.  The Niño Dios hidden in the rosca reminds us of the moment when Saint Joseph and the Virgin Mary hid the Baby Jesus in order to save him from King Herod, who wanted to kill him.  The three gifts that the Kings gave to the Niño Dios represent the Kings (gold), God (frankincense), and man (myrrh). 

    "In Mexico, we consider that an oval or ring shape represents the movement of the sun and that the Niño Dios represents the Child Jesus in his apparition as the Sun God.  Others mention that the circular or oval form of the Rosca de Reyes, which has no beginning and no end, is a representation of heaven–which of course is the home of the Niño Dios." 

    Rosca morelia
    On January 6, 2009, Paty Mora de Vallejo, wife of Morelia's mayor Fausto Vallejo, served a slice of the enormous rosca de reyes monumental moreliana, prepared jointly by bakeries from everywhere in the city.

    In many places in Mexico, including Morelia, Michoacán, bakers prepare an annual monumental rosca for the whole city to share.  The rosca contains nearly 3000 pounds of flour, 1500 pounds of margerine, 10,500 eggs, 150 liters of milk, 35 pounds of yeast, 35 pounds of salt, 225 pounds of butter, 2000 pounds of dried fruits, and 90 pounds of orange peel.  The completed cake, if stretched out straight, measures two kilometers in length!  Baked in sections, the gigantic rosca is the collaborative effort of ten bakeries in the city.  The city government as well as grocery wholesalers join together to see to it that the tradition of the rosca continues to be a vibrant custom. 

    Niño Dios from Rosca
    The plastic Niño Dios (Baby Jesus) baked into our rosca measured less than 2" tall.  The figures used to be made of porcelain, but now they are generally made of plastic.  See the dent from a bite on the Niño's head?  Mexico Cooks! is the culprit.  Every rosca de reyes baked in Mexico contains at least one Niño Dios; larger roscas can hold two, three, or more.  Morelia's giant rosca normally contains 10,000 of these tiny figures. 

    Tradition demands that the person who finds the niño in his or her slice of rosca is required to give a party on February 2, el Día de La Candelaria (Candlemas Day).  The party for La Candelaria calls for tamales, more tamales, and their traditional companion, a rich atole flavored with vanilla, cinnamon, or chocolate.  Several years ago, an old friend, in the throes of a family economic emergency, was a guest at his relatives' Three Kings party.  He bit into the niño buried in his slice of rosca.  Embarrassed that he couldn't shoulder the expense of the following month's Candelaria party, he gulped–literally–and swallowed the niño

    El Día de La Candelaria celebrates the presentation of Jesus in the Jewish temple, forty days after his birth.  The traditions of La Candelaria encompass religious rituals of ancient Jews, of pre-hispanic rites indigenous to Mexico, of the Christian evangelization brought to Mexico by the Spanish, and of modern-day Catholicism. 

    Baby Jesus Mexico Cooks
    In Mexico, you'll find a Niño Dios of any size for your home nacimiento (nativity scene).  Traditionally, the Niño Dios is passed down, along with his wardrobe of special clothing, from generation to generation in a single family. 

    Niñito Dios Vestido
    Mexico Cooks!' Niño Dios.

    The presentation of the child Jesus to the church is enormously important in Mexican Catholic life. February 2 marks the official end of the Christmas season, the day to put away the last of the holiday decorations.  On February 2, the figure of Jesus is gently lifted from the home nacimiento (manger scene, or creche), dressed in new clothing, carried to the church, where he receives blessings and prayers.  He  is then carried home and rocked to sleep with tender lullabies, and carefully put away until the following year. 

    Niño Dios Doctor
    The Niño Dios Doctor from Puebla.

    Each family dresses its Niño Dios according to its personal beliefs and traditions.  Some figures are dressed in clothing representing a Catholic saint particularly venerated in a family; others are dressed in the clothing typically worn by the patron saints of different Mexican states.  Some favorites are the Santo Niño de Atocha, venerated especially in Zacatecas; the Niño de Salud (Michoacán), the Santo Niño Doctor (Puebla), and, in Xochimilco (suburban Mexico City), the Niñopa n(alternately spelled Niñopa or Niño-Pa).

    Xochimilco Niñopan
    This Xochimilco arch and the highly decorated street welcome the much-loved Niñopa figure.

    The veneration of Xochimilco's beloved Niñopan follows centuries-old traditions.  The figure has a different mayordomo every year; the mayordomo is the person in whose house the baby sleeps every night.  Although the Niñopan (his name is a contraction of the words Niño Padre or Niño Patrón) travels from house to house, visiting his chosen hosts, he always returns to the mayordomo's house to spend the night.  One resident put it this way: "When the day is beautiful and it's really hot, we take him out on the canals.  In his special chalupita (little boat), he floats around all the chinampas (floating islands), wearing his little straw hat so that the heat won't bother him.  Then we take him back to his mayordomo, who dresses our Niñopan in his little pajamas, sings him a lullaby, and puts him to sleep, saying, 'Get in your little bed, it's sleepy time!"  Even though the Niñopan is always put properly to bed, folks in Xochimilco believe that he sneaks out of bed to play with his toys in the wee hours of the night.   

    Trajineras
    Trajineras (decorated boats) ready to receive tourists line the canals in Xochimilco. 

    Although he is venerated in many Xochimilco houses during the course of every year, the Niñopan's major feast day is January 6.  The annual celebration takes place in Xochimilco's church of St. Bernard of Sienna.  On the feast of the Candelaria, fireworks, music, and dancers accompany the Niñopan as he processes through the streets of Xochimilco on his way to his presentation in the church.

    Niñopa Colibrí
    Gloria in Xochimilco with Niñopan, April 2008.  Photo courtesy Colibrí.

    Xochimilco Papel Picado Niñopa
    Blue papel picado (cut paper decoration) floating in the deep-blue Xochimilco sky wishes the Niñopan welcome and wishes all of us Feliz Navidad.

    Tamales
    El Día de La Candelaria means a joyful party with lots of tamales, coupled with devotion to the Niño Dios.  For more about a tamalada (tamales-making party), look at this 2007 Mexico Cooks! article.

    From the rosca de reyes on January 6 to the tamales on February 2, the old traditions continue in Mexico's 21st Century.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • How Mexico Sees Our Lady of Guadalupe: Images of Love

    Tilma 2-08
    The actual tilma (cape-like garment) worn by San Juan Diego when he first saw Our Lady of Guadalupe, in December 1531.  The framed tilma hangs over the main altar at the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, Mexico City.

    The annual feast of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe) falls on December 12.  Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe is Mexico's patron saint, and her image adorns churches and altars, house facades and interiors, taxis, private cars, and buses, bull rings and gambling dens, restaurants and houses of ill repute. The shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe, la Basílica, is a place of extraordinary vitality and celebration. On major festival days such as the anniversary of the apparition on December 12th, the atmosphere of devotion created by the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims is truly electrifying.

    OLG Statues
    Statues of Our Lady of Guadalupe for sale at one of the many, many souvenir booths outside the Basílica.

    The enormous Basílica of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe in Mexico City is the most visited pilgrimage site in the Western Hemisphere. Its location, on the hill of Tepeyac, was a place of great sanctity long before the arrival of Christianity in the New World. In pre-Hispanic times, Tepeyac had been crowned with a temple dedicated to an earth and fertility goddess called Tonantzin, the Mother of the Gods. Tonantzin was a virgin goddess associated with the moon, like Our Lady of Guadalupe who usurped her shrine.

    NSG Tattoo
    Our Lady of Guadalupe tattoo.

    Read the full story of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe here.

    Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe con Cacahuates
    Our Lady of Guadalupe flashing light, surrounded by fresh roasted peanuts. Morelia, Michoacán. November 2009.

    NSG Agua Bendita 
    Plastic holy water bottles in a rainbow of colors, for sale at the booths just outside the Basílica.

    Art Casket - Our Lady of Guadalupe
    Art casket, Our Lady of Guadalupe and the Basílica.

    OLG folk art 
    Primitive folk art depiction of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

    NSG with Pope John Paul II
    Statue in resin of Our Lady of Guadalupe and Pope John Paul II, who was devoted to her.  This image is reproduced as calendars, statues of all sizes, and pictures to hang on the wall.  In Mexico, it's still one of the most popular images of 'the real Pope–Mexico's pope'.

    Monseñor Monroy
    Portrait of Monseñor Diego Monroy, rector of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe.  The painting is part of Monseñor Monroy's private collection.

    Guadalupano
    In 1810, Padre Miguel Hidalgo carried this banner to lead the struggle for Mexico's independence from Spain.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico?  Click here:  Tours.

  • Mexico City’s Wholesale Flower Market: Mercado de Jamaica

    Bellas Artes con Jacaranda 11-03-2014
    Spring arrives in Mexico City in February, with the purple-blossoming jacaranda trees you see in the foreground. Behind the trees, our Centro Histórico's (historic center) iconic dome of the Palacio de Bellas Artes and behind that, the emblematic Torre Latinoamericana.  All photos copywrite Mexico Cooks! unless noted otherwise.

    Árbol de la Primavera
    Spring comes early to central Mexico.  The sun's new strength brings sweater-shedding warmth, gusty breezes, and flowers by the millions.  Bougainvillea, jacaranda, and primavera (Tabebuia chrysotricha, above photo) trees riot into bloom. We sigh over our streets, temporary rainbows of fallen blossoms. Photo courtesy Javier Palafox.

    Metro DF Linea 9
    For indoor flowers–arrangements for any occasion from birth to the tomb, or for fresh cut flowers to arrange yourself, for corsages, and even for big plastic bags of rose petals–your first stop in Mexico City is the Mercado de Jamaica: our wholesale flower market.  It's a snap for Mexico Cooks! to hop on the Metro closest to our home (the Chilpancingo stop along Metro Line 9, third from left in the photo), ride four stops, and hop off at Metro Jamaica.  Yes, the market has its own Metro stop!  Its symbol is an ear of corn.  Click on any photo to enlarge the image for a better look.  Photo courtesy Metro DF.

    Recorrido Dulces Chiquitos Surtidos
    On the Saturday before Palm Sunday, I took a friend on his first visit to this magical market.  When you exit the Metro and enter the shopping area, the Mercado de Jamaica looks like most Mexico City markets: as far as the eye can see, it's stalls of vendors selling everything from pet supplies to piñatas and from pirate CDs to plastic gewgaws, doodads, and thingamajigs.  Above, small candies for sale by the gram or the kilo.

    Huitlacoche 3
    Still in the produce section of the market, we found a basket of huitlacoche (corn fungus).  To the left and at bottom, you see fungus that has been cut off the cob.  At the top and right are ears of corn fungus, still in the fresh green husks.  It just doesn't get any fresher than this.

    Unlaid Eggs Mercado Jamaica
    If you keep walking toward what you might think is the back of the market, you will pass through a section devoted to meat vendors and chicken vendors. The photo above is a tub of unlaid egg yolks, taken from recently-butchered hens.

    Rosas Rojas y Blancas 30 pesos 6 docenas
    Pass through a slightly damp passageway and you reach your reward: the enormous market section of wholesale flower vendors.  It's a revelation, I promise you, and one that will leave you delighted.  For example, several vendors were selling these roses and others of all colors in bundles of six dozen–for 30 pesos (about $2.00 USD). One of the vendors told me that at special flower-oriented times of year like Valentine's Day and Mother's Day, the same bundles sell for 120 pesos (just over $9.00 USD).  At either price, they're a bargain.

    Lirios Multicolores
    At this season of the year, lilies are what's in order. From casablanca to stargazer to standard-issue day lilies, you'll find what you want for an Easter bouquet.

    Alstromeria in Cages
    These alstromeria-filled small bird cages hung from bare-branched tree limbs. The cages also held rose buds, daisies, and baby's breath.  They'd be just the ticket to decorate for a bridal shower or quinceañera (girl's 15th birthday).  With so wide a range of colors available in both alstromerias and roses, you could match any dress tones.

    Woven Palms with Statice
    Many vendors offered woven palms for sale, especially for Palm Sunday. These included purple statice and fresh rosemary.

    Cristitos Cargando la Cruz
    These figures, about six inches high, depict Christ carrying the cross.  The heads, hands, and arms are made of straw.  Again, these are special for Palm Sunday and Good Friday.

    Cruces Blancas
    In this part of Mexico, funeral flowers are always white. These crosses are designed to be sent to a funeral home or to the home of the person who has passed away. Many deceased are still 'waked' at home.  In addition, for Catholics, the rosary is usually said at home for nine days after a death. Flowers and candles are pure white.  The many-colored bouquets behind and to the side of the crosses are for wedding or other party decor.

    Flores Mixtas
    Spring has sprung!  Some of the vendors at the Mercado de Jamaica specialize in exotic flowers, like the ones at the far right center of the photo. Many vendors call their blooms by really colloquial and/or regional names. My friend asked the name of the grayish-green leaves in the center of the photo; the vendor said, "dólar" (dollar). You probably know the plant as silver dollar eucalyptus.

    Yo No Soy La Novia
    This delightful young man sat talking with a friend while he held a charmingly feminine bouquet.  We joked about whether he was to be the bride, which tickled him no end.  He turned the same pink as the roses!

    Alcatraces Calla Lilies
    Alcatraces (calla lilies) sold in bud, like these, will open up little by little in your home.  Did you know that Alcatraz, the prison near San Francisco, California, is named for this flower?

    Nube
    Believe it or not, this is just one small corner of the baby's breath for sale by one vendor.  In Spanish, baby's breath is called nube (cloud).  Almost every arrangement has some, filling in any available space.

    Hortensias April 2014
    Hortensias (hydrangeas), in shades ranging from white to purple.  Similar plants, in full flower and with the pots gussied up with ivy, moss, and ribbons, graced the tables at a party at our former home in Morelia.  They made perfect and very inexpensive centerpieces.

    Garden 1
    One corner of our Morelia garden, dressed to the nines for the party.  When the festivities were over, we planted the hydrangeas in our borders.

    Arreglo con Rosas
    These bouquets of roses, bells of Ireland, and baby's breath from the Mercado de Jamaica were arranged on porcelain plates.  Aren't they gorgeous?  Let's have a party!  Better yet, let's take a market tour.  You will love a day at the market.

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  • XIº Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Michoacán: Michoacán’s Eleventh Festival of Traditional Cooks

    [youtube=://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vlNbX2ZhbQ&w=420&h=236] 
    Whether you understand Spanish or not, the video will give you a marvelous feel for the extraordinary XI Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Michoacán, which took place in Morelia, Michoacán over the weekend of April 3, 4, and 5, 2014. The festival is known more commonly as the Encuentro de Cocina Tradicional de Michoacán

    Since 2007, Mexico Cooks! has been honored to be part of this conference, Mexico's most remarkable festival of traditional cooking.  Affectionately known simply as "Las Cocineras" (the cooks), it's part love-fest, part food-fest, part culture-fest, and entirely about traditional indigenous cooking in the west-central Mexican state, Michoacán.

    Encuentro Altar de Dolores
    Because of its enormous popularity, the Las Cocineras will have two editions in 2014.  The first, celebrated during 2014's Lenten season, took as its theme "Sabores de Cuaresma" (Lenten Flavors).  A committee from the artisan town Tzintzuntzan decorated the stage as if it were a traditional Altar de Dolores, an altar dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows.  The second edition this year will take place on October 4, 5, and 6.  Click on any image to enlarge it for a better view.

    Cynthia, Ana, SECTUR
    Left to right: Cynthia Martínez Becerril, president of the festival organizing committee; Ana Compeán Reyes Spíndola, representative of the national Secretary of Tourism offices (SECTUR) in Morelia; and Francisco José de la Vega Aragón, Director General de Innovación de Producto Turístico de la SECTUR Federal, immediately following the formal inauguration of the April festivities.  

    In November 2010, UNESCO awarded its Intangible cultural heritage designation to Mexico's cuisine: Traditional Mexican Cuisine – Ancestral, Ongoing Community Culture, The Michoacán Paradigm.  The title is based in large part on this annual event and the manner in which it reflects Michoacán's culinary and cultural heritage.  Due to the undisputed and unique importance of this festival to Mexico as a whole, representatives from Mexico's state and national tourism offices were present all weekend.

    Now let's celebrate!  

    Encuentro Benedicta con Imelda
    Maestra cocinera (master cook) Benedicta Alejo Vargas from San Lorenzo, Michoacán, indubitably the best-known Purépecha cook in the world, is giving a demonstration of the preparation of corundas de siete picos (seven-pointed corundas) while her granddaughter, nearly-four-year-old Imelda, watches. 

    To the far right of the photo you can see a bundle of oak twigs that are used at the base of the steamer to keep the corundas out of boiling water during the steaming process.  In front of maestra Benedicta is a bowl of masa and another bowl of dough balls ready to be wrapped in leaves.  To the far left in the photo, that tall object is dried corn leaves, wrapped with a cord for storage. Dried corn leaves are reconstituted for use during the season when fresh leaves are not available.  

    Corundas, a Purépecha-region specialty, are in this case corn tamales shaped like pyramids, wrapped in long corn leaves (center in the photograph above), and steamed. They can have three, five, or seven points–but popurlar opinion is that maestra Benedicta is the only person capable of consistently making them with seven points! 

    Benedicta Corundas
    Maestra Benedicta's corundas con verduras (with vegetables), topped with col de árbol and tzirita.  Corundas can be prepared as tontas (corn masa without filling), made with finely chopped vegetables incorporated into the masa (in this case, corn dough) as pictured above, or stuffed with chile strips and cheese.  

    Encuentro Benedicta Alejo Muele
    When I met maestra Benedicta and most of the other traditional cooks, they did not speak Spanish, were shy and retiring, and were generally afraid to speak in public.  Today, Benedicta and many of the others are internationally known, speak both Purépecha and near-fluent Spanish.  The Encuentro's benefits to these women, most of whom live in distant rural outposts of Michoacán, include the self esteem that comes from being recognized and valued for their enormous contribution to their communities, their state, and their country.

    Maestra Benedicta recently told a story of a woman who was standing in the long line at her Encuentro stand. She suggested that the woman buy food from the cocinera at the next stand, saying, "Her food is just like mine.  We are making similar things."  The woman shook her head.  "The other cocinera doesn't speak Spanish."  The maestra answered, "But the food speaks for itself."

    Encuentro Virgen de Benedicta
    This small representation of the Virgin Mary, ensconced in a flower-adorned niche at the top of Benedicta's stand, is dressed in typical Purépecha clothing, all made by Benedicta.  Notice that her apron is hand-embroidered with typical clay jugs. In 2012, this Virgin traveled to the Vatican with a delegation of artisans and officials from the state of Michoacán, including Benedicta.  She and a team of assistants prepared a typical Purépecha dinner for 900 people, including Pope Benedict XVI.  Maestra Benedicta was thrilled to cook for her tocayo (namesake).  Maestra Benedicta recently laughed as she told a group, "I never thought that I would leave my home in little San Lorenzo, but now–now I feel like a swallow, flying here and there."

    Encuentro Juanita Bravo Ponencia
    Maestra cocinera Juanita Bravo Lázaro from Angahuan, Michoacán gave a fascinating talk about the nixtamal-ization of corn.  Among her points were:

    • the importance of choosing the very best mazorcas (ears of dried cacahuatzintle corn)
    • taking the dried corn from the cob using a lava stone
    • processing the corn in a new clay pot that has been freshly cured with cal (builder's lime)

    She also elaborated on the use of ceniza (wood ash) and a bit of cal in the corn's cooking water and the carefully watched 20-30 minute time that the corn simmers over a slow wood fire.  She emphasized the yellow color that the corn takes on during its cooking and the importance of washing, rinsing, and overnight soaking of the finished nixtamal to remove all traces of both cal and wood ash.

    Maestra Juanita mentioned that five liters of prepared nixtamal renders approximately 100 small corundas.  In advance of weddings and other important fiestas, townswomen gather and together prepare many hundreds of corundas.

    As part of her talk, Maestra Juanita shared some of her experiences in Nairobi, Kenya, during November 2010, when Mexico was a contender for the UNESCO Intangible cultural heritage designation. She talked about how difficult it was for her to leave her home and family and travel halfway around the world to a place she had never seen and had barely heard about.  She said, "I hated to leave my family behind.  I knew that there would be very few of us Mexicans at the event in Africa, and I knew I would not be able to understand much of the language used there.  I was nervous about flying all that distance.  But I wanted to be there, in case my country received the prize.  So I set aside my fears and took the chance.

    "I was standing with a group of people, trying to figure out what the dignitaries were saying–but I couldn't hear much or understand what was going on. Suddenly I heard a huge shout, people were screaming and clapping.  'What? What happened?'  I kept asking."  Finally someone who spoke Spanish said, 'You won the award!  Mexico WON!'  And then I felt so proud, so happy to be part of it all.  It was a joyous day and I was so happy to be there, representing my town, my state, and my country in Africa." 

    Next week, we'll continue our exploration and celebration at the XIº Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Michoacán.  There are many stories left to tell and a lot more to enjoy.

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  • Viernes Santo Procesión del Silencio :: Good Friday Procession of Silence, Morelia

    Drummers
    Hooded drummers marked the beat of Morelia's penitential Procesión del Silencio: Good Friday's silent procession commemorating both the crucifixion of Christ and his Mother's grief.  Only the drumbeat broke the silence along the route.

    Dolores 1
    Nuestra Señora de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows).  Hooded members of various Catholic confraternities (religious organizations founded in Europe in the 15th Century) carry these life-size statues on their wooden platforms approximately three kilometers through Morelia's Centro Histórico.

    Rezando en la Huerta
    Jesus during la Oración en el Huerto (praying in the Garden of Gethsemane), just prior to his arrest on Holy Thursday night.  Boy Scouts (the young man in red at the right of the photo) hold the protective rope all along the route of the procession.

    Cristo en el Pilar
    El Señor del Pilar (the Lord of the Column) depicts Jesus, bound to a column, and whipped by Roman soldiers after his conviction.

    Soldados Romanos
    Roman soldiers.

    Veladora 2
    The majority of Morelia's Procesión del Silencio takes place after dark, by candlelight.  

    Legion de Jesús
    The Legion of Christ carry their banner and their lamps.  The Procesión del Silencio lasts about four hours.  During that time, all of Morelia's Centro Histórico is closed to vehicular traffic.

    La Cruz a Cuestas
    Jesus carries the cross a cuestas (on his back) to Calvary.  More than 50,000 spectators stood along the entire route of Morelia's Procesión del Silencio.

    Cargando la Cruz 2
    Penitents from one of Morelia's confraternities carry their crosses the length of the procession.  Many march barefoot through the city streets.  The procession celebrated its thirty-third anniversary this year.

    Cristo en la Cruz
    Robed and hooded members of another Catholic confraternity carry a small image of the crucified Christ.  Hoods cover the faces of those who march as a sign of penitence.

    Antorchas
    Clothed in gold and black, these marching penitents carry huge metal torches.

    Cristo Muerto
    Six men of all ages carry Cristo Muerto (the dead Christ), while six others follow as relief when the burden of the image, the platform, the lights, and the flowers becomes too heavy.  The man at the far right of the photo carries one of two saw horses used to support the platform during occasional pauses in the procession.

    Nuestra Señora de Soledad
    At the end of the Procesión del Silencio, la Virgen de la Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude) follows the body of her crucified Son.  The platform bearing her image holds burning candles, a purple and gold velvet canopy, and banks of fresh flowers.

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  • Comida Mexicana para La Cuaresma: Special Mexican Food for Lent

    Ash Wednesday, which marks the beginning of Lent, was March 5, 2014.  The following article has been very popular as a reference since it was first published on Mexico Cooks! in 2009.  So many people want to know what we eat in Mexico when we're not eating meat!  Enjoy…and buen provecho!

    Torta de Papa con Frijolitos Negros
    Tortitas de papa (potato croquettes, left) and frijoles negros (black beans, right) from the south of Mexico are ideal for a Lenten meal.

    Catholic Mexicans observe la Cuaresma (Lent), the 40-day (excluding Sundays) penitential season that precedes Easter, with special prayers, vigils, and with extraordinary meatless meals cooked only on Ash Wednesday and on the Fridays of Lent.  Many Mexican dishes–seafood, vegetable, and egg–are normally prepared without meat, but some other meatless dishes are particular to Lent. Known as comida cuaresmeña, many of these delicious Lenten foods are little-known outside Mexico and some other parts of Latin America.

    Many observant Catholics believe that the personal reflection and meditation demanded by Lenten practices are more fruitful if the individual refrains from heavy food indulgence and makes a promise to abstain from other common habits such as eating candy, smoking cigarettes, and drinking alcohol. 

    Atole de Grano
    Atole de grano, a Michoacán specialty made of tender corn and licorice-scented anís, is a perfect cena (supper) for Lenten Fridays.

    Ash Wednesday, February 22, marked the beginning of Lent in 2012.  Shortly before, certain food specialties began to appear in local markets.Vendors are currently offering very large dried shrimp for caldos (broths) and tortitas (croquettes), perfect heads of cauliflower for tortitas de coliflor (cauliflower croquettes), seasonal romeritos, and thick, dried slices of bolillo (small loaves of white bread) for capirotada (a kind of bread pudding).

    Romeritos en Mole
    This common Lenten preparation is romeritos en moleRomeritos, an acidic green vegetable, is in season at this time of year.  Although it looks a little like rosemary, its taste is relatively sour, more like verdolagas (purslane).

    Tortas de Camarón
    You'll usually see tortitas de camarón (dried shrimp croquettes) paired for a Friday comida (midday meal) with romeritos en mole, although they are sometimes bathed in a caldillo de jitomate (tomato broth) and served with sliced nopalitos (cactus paddles).

    Huachinango Mercado del Mar
    During Lent, the price of fish and seafood in Mexico goes through the roof due to the huge seasonal demand for meatless meals.  These beautiful huachinango (red snapper) come from Mexico's Pacific coast.

    Tortita de Calabacita
    Tortita de calabacita (little squash fritter) from the sorely missed Restaurante Los Comensales in Morelia, Michoacán.  Mexico Cooks! featured the restaurant (the name means 'The Diners') in October 2009.  Less than a year after our interview with her, Señora Catalina Aguirre Camacho, the owner of Los Comensales since 1980, became too elderly and incapacitated to continue to operate her wonderful restaurant.  This dish is wonderful for a Lenten supper.

    Trucha Zitácuaro
    Chef Martín Rafael Mendizabal of La Trucha Alegre in Zitacuaro, Michoacán, prepared trucha deshuesada con agridulce de guayaba (boned trout with guava sweet and sour sauce) for the V Encuentro de Cocina Tradicional de Michoacán held in Morelia in December 2008.  The dish would be ideal for an elegant Lenten dinner.

    Plato Capirotada
    Capirotada (Lenten bread pudding) is almost unknown outside Mexico.  Simple to prepare and absolutely delicious, it's hard to eat it sparingly if you're trying to keep a Lenten abstinence! 

    Every family makes a slightly different version of capirotada: a pinch more of this, leave out that, add such-and-such.  Mexico Cooks! prefers to leave out the apricots and add dried pineapple.  Make it once and then tweak the recipe to your preference–but please do stick with traditional ingredients.

    CAPIROTADA

    Ingredients
    *4 bollilos, in 1" slices (small loaves of dense white bread)
    5 stale tortillas
    150 grams pecans
    50 grams prunes
    100 grams raisins
    200 grams peanuts
    100 grams dried apricots
    1 large apple, peeled and sliced thin
    100 grams grated Cotija cheese
    Peel of one orange, two uses
    *3 cones piloncillo (Mexican brown sugar)
    Four 3" pieces of Mexican stick cinnamon
    2 cloves
    Butter
    Salt

    *If you don't have bolillo, substitute slices of very dense French bread.  If you don't have piloncillo, substitute 1/2 cup tightly packed brown sugar.

    A large metal or clay baking dish.

    Preparation

    Preheat the oven to 300°F.

    Toast the bread and spread with butter.  Slightly overlap the tortillas in the bottom and along the sides of the baking dish to make a base for the capirotada.  Prepare a thin syrup by boiling the piloncillo in 2 1/2 cups of water with a few shreds of cinnamon sticks, 2/3 of the orange peel, the cloves, and a pinch of salt.

    Place the layers of bread rounds in the baking dish so as to allow for their expansion as the capirotada cooks.  Lay down a layer of bread, then a layer of nuts, prunes, raisins, peanuts and apricots.  Continue until all the bread is layered with the rest.  For the final layer, sprinkle the capirotada with the grated Cotija cheese and the remaining third of the orange peel (grated).  Add the syrup, moistening all the layers  little by little.  Reserve a portion of the syrup to add to the capirotada in case it becomes dry during baking.

    Bake uncovered until the capirotada is golden brown and the syrup is absorbed.  The bread will expand as it absorbs the syrup.  Remember to add the rest of the syrup if the top of the capirotada looks dry.

    Cool the capirotada at room temperature.  Do not cover until it is cool; even then, leave the top ajar.

    Platos Servidos Capirotada
    Try very hard not to eat the entire pan of capirotada at one sitting!

    A positive thought for the remainder of Lent: give up discouragement, be an optimist.

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