Category: Recipe

  • What’s the Real Story on Mexico’s Mealtimes? Cena (Supper) at the End of Day.

    DF Camotero 1
    The man who operates this cart in Mexico City's Centro Histórico (Historic Center) wheels his baked plátanos y camotes (bananas and sweet potatoes) around during the day.  In residential areas, when downtown businesses are closed, you are most likely to hear the steam whistle's raucously loud and high-pitched TWEEEEEEEEEEET during mid-to-late evening hours. Each plateful is either a roasted banana or sweet potato dripping with sweetened condensed milk.  Click to enlarge the photo for a better look at the front of the vehicle, where the bananas and sweet potatoes are kept warm over the cart's firebox.

    Cena (supper) in Mexico is a mixed bag.  For an ordinary cena at home, it's a tiny meal: a cup of hot chocolate or hot milk, a pan dulce (sweet bread), or a quick taco made with what's left over from comida (the main meal of the day).  Comida being the large meal that it usually is, cena is meant only to tide you over from just before bedtime till early the next morning.

    Rose Tacos al Pastor
    If you're out partying till the wee hours, a few tacos al pastor (shepherd-style marinated pork tacos) on the street might be just the ticket for your cena.  Note the whole pineapple at the top of the trompo (vertical spit).  The pineapple cooks along with the meat–see the gas grate behind the cone of meat?–and the taquero (taco cook) tosses a few small sweet slices into your grill-warmed tortilla.  Top with red or green salsa, a pinch of sea salt, and a shower of minced onion and cilantro for a taste of heaven.

    Encuentro Buñuelos
    Buñuelos are another favorite food for cena, either eaten at a cenaduría (supper spot) or purchased from a street vendor.  Some people still make them at home–the dough is very similar to that of a wheat flour tortilla, stretched over the round bottom of a clay pot till thin.  Traditionally, the dough is stretched over the maker's knee to achieve each buñuelo's large size and round shape!  They are usually served either whole and dusted with granulated sugar or broken into pieces in a bowl and drizzled with piloncillo (brown sugar) syrup.

    Conchas
    Conchas (pan dulce), reposted from the breakfast article: food for cena is often the same food we eat for desayuno.

    Just as an aside: in addition to cena, some people in Mexico still partake of merienda, a light snack that can come sometime between comida and cena.  This 'light snack' can be as simple as a couple of cookies and a cup of té de manzanilla (chamomile tea) or it can be a more complex offering similar to an English tea.  Mexico Cooks! will leave the question of how to find stomach room for merienda up to you.

    Atole de Grano en Cazo
    Not all food eaten for cena is sweet.  Case in point: this Pátzcuaro, Michoacán specialty is atole de grano, a savory corn soup that's colored and flavored with anise.  In the evening, two women sell this heavenly soup on Pátzcuaro's small plaza.  Let's go right now!

    Rosewood Hotel SMA
    The 1826 Restaurant at the Rosewood Hotel in San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, is an enticing spot for cena whether it's a romantic evening for you and your main squeeze or whether you are supping with a group of friends.

    Cynthia Mesa de Cerca
    Several years ago, Mexico Cooks! and a group of friends attended a gala Valentine's Day cena at Restaurante Los Danzantes in Coyoacán, Mexico City.  The dinner was presented by Cynthia Martínez and a team from Restaurante San Miguelito of Morelia, Michoacán.

    If you are invited to a cena baile (dinner dance) or a cena de gala (black tie dinner)at a restaurant, events center, or private home, your hosts will pull out all the stops.  Champagne, beautiful entradas (appetizers), a superb multi-course meal, snazzy dessert, alcoholic beverages and music are de rigeur.

    JASO Mexico Cooks! Research
    Mexico Cooks! researches possibilities for an elegant cena at Restaurante JASO, Colonia Polanco, Mexico City.  It's a tough job, but somebody has to do it.  

    Cristina Cena de Gala Aquiles Cha?vez
    Expect to gussy up in your elegant best when you are out for a special cena.  From left to right: (standing) Lucero García, (seated) Mexico Cooks!, fabulous and celebrated chef Aquiles Chávez, and Aliz Reyes at a superb and festive cena in Morelia, in honor of Diana Kennedy.

    From street tacos to stilettos and tuxedos, cena in Mexico will keep you going till morning.  Provecho!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • What’s the Real Story on Mexico’s Mealtimes? It’s Time for Comida, Mexico’s Main Meal of the Day

    Entrada
    A stylized modern entrada (appetizer), served at Restaurante Quintonil in Mexico City.  

    Mexico's main meal of the day is comida, which is eaten sometime between two and five o'clock in the afternoon.  Prime time for comida is three o'clock; in many places all over the República, businesses still respect the old-time rule that closes business doors during mid-afternoon meal time.  In fact, unless the business mentions that it observes horario corrido (continuous work day) you can assume that from two until at least four in the afternoon, its doors are closed to business.  Its workday is from 10:00AM to 2:00PM and from 4:00PM to 8:00PM.

    Azul Histórico 5 Crema de Cilantro
    Crema de cilantro (cream of cilantro soup).  The soup course comes after the entrada. Soups include caldos (broths), consomés (clear soups), cremas (creamed soups), and other styles of sopa aguada–liquid soup.

    In cities and towns all over Mexico, you'll find fondas, comida económica, and comida corrida restaurants.  All of these small, usually family-run restaurants specialize in full meals that stoke your furnace for the rest of your workday and beyond.  In addition, in many cities there are high-end restaurants that specialize in comidas for professional and business lunches, others that are designed for the ladies-who-lunch trade, and still other, family-style restaurants that invite everyone from the oldest great-grandpa to the newest newborn to enjoy time together.

    Amecameca Ensaladas Varias
    A variety of prepared salads for sale in a market.  Sold by the kilo or portion of a kilo, these salads are meant to be taken home and eaten along with your comida.

    Encuentro Mole con Pollo
    Mexico's signature mole con pollo (mole with chicken) is popular for the platillo fuerte (main dish) at a comida, whether served at home or in a restaurant.  Many regions of the country have special mole recipes; some, like those found in Puebla or Oaxaca, are very well known.  Others, especially some from the state of Michoacán, are less well known but equally delicious.

    Albóndigas en el Plato
    These Jalisco-style albóndigas (meatballs) are traditional and typically served as a platillo fuerte for comida, along with their delicious sauce, a big helping of steamed white rice, a garnish of avocado, and a tall stack of tortillas.

    Many soon-to-be-visitors to Mexico write to me saying something like this: "I want to plan for breakfast in the hotel and a meal in such-and-such a restaurant at lunchtime.  Then we want to go for dinner at such-and-such restaurant."  Unless you are a professional eater–and I know that some of you are!–it's difficult to fit all of that food into one day, given the times of day that meals are usually eaten here.  If your breakfast is included in the cost of your hotel or B&B, many of the available dishes will look like those featured here last week.  They're very, very filling.  Just a few hours later, it's time for comida, an even more filling meal when eaten in a restaurant.  

    Carne y Salsa Listo para Hornear
    Carne de cerdo en salsa verde (pork in green sauce) is a typical home-style dish (in this instance, just being put into the Mexico Cooks! oven) often served for comida.  Of course it is preceded by an appetizer, a soup, and perhaps a salad; it's accompanied by red or white rice, refried beans, and a stack of tortillas–and followed by dessert!

    Torta Especial Los Cun?ados Aguascalientes con Chilpancingo 2
    The famous and enormous torta especial, from Tortas Los Cuñados, across the street from my home.  This torta is a multi-meat sandwich with cheese, garnished with lettuce, tomato, and pickled chiles jalapeños), served on a bread called telera.  The word telera means shuttle, because the bread is shaped like one.  This kind of delicious hot sandwich is neither lunch nor a complete comida

    "Lunch" as it is eaten in the United States or elsewhere does not exist in Mexico.  You might see a restaurant sign reading "LONCHERÍA", but it refers to a kind of cold sandwich, known as a 'lonche', not to a place where you can have lunch.  A lonche can be eaten at any old time–between meals, instead of meals, before or after a movie, and so on.

    Carnitas
    This is a boiling pot of Michoacán carnitas–huge chunks of lean pork, boiled in freshly rendered lard until the pork is fork-tender with crisp, chewy outsides.  Coarsely chopped and served by the platter, ready to stuff into hot-off-the-fire tortillas and top with minced onions, chopped cilantro, super-spicy salsa, a sprinkle of sea salt and a squeeze of lime, carnitas can be a rustic and delicious comida all on their own.

    Muertos Taco Carnitas
    Here are those same carnitas, in a taco.  On the side is a slice of pickled chile manzano, hot as Hades but much more delicious.

    Gelatina Pinar
    Gelatina is a common light dessert following a heavy comida

    Flan Napolitano
    On the other hand, you will almost always have room for a slice of old-fashioned creamy flan.

    Next week, we finish our day of Mexico's meals with cena–supper!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • What’s the Real Story on Mexico’s Mealtimes? First, Let’s Have Desayuno (Breakfast)

    Classic American Breakfast Cold Cereal
    A classic quick breakfast in the USA, circa 1950s: cold unsweetened cereal with milk and sugar, plus a banana.

    Several times a month, Mexico Cooks! receives vacation-time queries from folks in the United States about mealtimes and what's eaten when in Mexico.  It can be challenging to plan a trip to any country, including Mexico, where mealtimes are different from what you might think of as 'normal'.  This week and for the next two weeks here at Mexico Cooks!, you'll learn more about meals and mealtimes.  

    Conchas
    In Mexico, a huge variety of pan dulce (sweet bread) is available for breakfast.  These are conchas (shells), so-called because of the design impressed into their sugared tops. Have your pan dulce with either hot chocolate, coffee, or a steaming cup of atole (a corn-based hot beverage).

    It can be even more challenging for anyone raised in one frame of reference to understand that breakfast isn't always about what you have always thought of as your first meal of the day.  Many years ago, when I was first living in Mexico, the light bulb came on for me: breakfast food is whatever you happen to eat for breakfast.  You know how leftover pizza straight from the refrigerator is a guilty breakfast for a lot of people in the States?  A slice is really a perfectly adequate breakfast.  Lots of Mexican breakfasts are just like that: whatever food is available at the moment.

    Susana's Corunda, Pátzcuaro
    The corunda is a regional tamal from Michoacán.  This corunda, filled with cream cheese and topped with Mexican table cream and a sauce made of chile perón (a Michoacán-grown chile), makes a great desayuno when accompanied by a cup of hot atole de zarzamora (a corn-based hot drink).

    People in Mexico frequently eat two morning meals. The first is desayuno, which comes from the root word ayunar, to fast.  Desayuno literally means "I un-fast" and is ordinarily eaten first thing in the morning, maybe before work while you are standing in the pre-dawn kitchen thinking about the coming day on the job or gobbled while you are hurrying the kids into their school uniforms.  This breakfast consists of something quick and simple, or a smear of yesterday's frijolitos refritos on a leftover tortilla, washed down with a glass of fresh orange juice; a pan dulce still hot from the corner bakery, accompanied by a cup of Nescafé (Mexico's ubiquitous instant coffee).  It's just enough to help your brain kick into gear.

    Calabaza Lista Pa'Comer
    This Mexico Cooks! desayuno includes home-made calabaza en tacha bathed in hot milk plus a slice of pan relleno con chilacayote (bread filled with sweetened chilacayote squash paste), served with fresh juice or coffee.

    Molletes
    At home, Mexico Cooks! occasionally prepares molletes, an old-time family favorite.  I grill a bolillo (a dense-textured and crusty white bread roll), add a thick smear of chile-spiced refried beans, and top them with huevos volteados (over-easy eggs).  With some salsa cruda (home-made fresh salsa) a fresh fruit accompaniment, this almuerzo is really stick-to-your-ribs.

    Around 10.30 or eleven o'clock in the morning, when the stomach starts to require something more substantial to keep the body going, many people take a break for almuerzo.  There really is no adequate word in English for this meal.  It's not breakfast and it's not a snack.  Almuerzo is typically a larger meal than desayuno.  Workers on a construction job, for example, often stop work, build a little fire, and heat up yesterday's leftovers that they've brought along in a 'tupper'–the generic word in Mexico for a covered plastic container.  Warmed-up leftovers, a stack of tortillas, and a fresh-made pot of coffee keep the girders going up. 

    El Portalito Enchiladas Verdes Abiertas
    Another really hearty almuerzo: a plateful of enchiladas verdes con pollo deshebrado (enchiladas with shredded chicken in green sauce) topped with finely grated white cheese and minced onion, accompanied by a guarnición (side) of refried beans.

    Pátzcuaro Breakfast
    Here's another typical almuerzo in Mexico: chilaquiles verdes (fried tortilla strips simmered in green sauce), topped with grated white cheese and thinly sliced white onions, then crowned with huevos a gusto (eggs however you like them).  Add a side of frijolitos refritos, a plate of ripe papaya, a warm-from-the-oven bolillo, either salsa or butter for the bread, and a great cappuchino, all served on a sunny terrace.  Heaven…

    Next week, next meal!  We'll save your place at the table. 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Down Memory Lane: Doña Yola’s Albóndigas de Pollo (Chicken Meatballs) en Salsa Verde

    Doña Yola la Chef
    Several years ago, Mexico Cooks! was thrilled to meet doña Yolanda Rodríguez Orozco.  At the time, she was working at a now-defunct buffet restaurant in Morelia, Michoacán.  In Mexico, 'doña' is an honorific indicating true respect for a woman (it's don for a man).  Affectionately known to one and all as doña Yola, she cooked with tremendous love as the primary seasoning for whatever she put on the table.

    One of the most delicious items on the menu at that restaurant was Albóndigas de Pollo en Salsa Verde (chicken meatballs in green sauce).  Because I promised that I would share the recipe with all of you, Doña Yola graciously shared her amazingly easy recipe with me.  Simple to prepare and marvelous to taste, these meatballs instantly made it to star status on our dining table.

    Pechuga de Pollo Molida
    A chicken vendor grinds fresh chicken breast to order at the weekly tianguis (street market) in our neighborhood.  You can ask the butcher at your supermarket to grind the breasts for you.

    Espinacas
    Gorgeous dark green vitamin-rich spinach, ready to chop for the albóndigas.

    Hierbabuena con Huevos
    Fresh mint grown in a pot on our terrace or available at any market, along with beautiful fresh local eggs.

    Albóndigas de Pollo en Salsa Verde Estilo Doña Yola
    Chicken Meatballs in Green Salsa, Doña Yola's Way

    Ingredients for the meatballs
    1 kilo (2.2 lbs) freshly ground chicken breast
    100 grams (1/4 lb) raw fresh spinach (stems removed), finely chopped
    1 small white onion, finely minced
    1 clove garlic, finely minced
    1 Tbsp fresh mint, finely minced
    1 chile serrano, finely minced
    1/2 cup cooked white rice
    3 eggs, lightly beaten
    1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
    Sea salt to taste
    Freshly ground pepper to taste
    1 tsp cornstarch or as needed

    Mezcla
    Ground chicken, spinach, onion, garlic, mint, and chile serrano, ready to mix with cooked rice.

    Procedure
    Lightly mix the first seven ingredients together.  Beat the eggs and Worcestershire sauce together and mix by hand into the mixture.  Add sea salt and ground black pepper to taste.  Add cornstarch until the mixture holds together well when you form a small amount into a ball.  Form the mixture into balls approximately 2" in diameter.  Makes 20 albóndigas.  Plate the meatballs in a single layer (Mexico Cooks! likes to re-use washed Styrofoam meat trays from the supermarket for holding the albóndigas), then cover and refrigerate until ready to cook.

    Tomate y Chile
    Tomates verdes (tomatillos) and chiles serranos for preparing salsa verde.  Remove the tomatillos'  papery husks and wash the sticky tomatillos thoroughly.

    Ingredients for Salsa Verde
    10-12 tomatillos (known in Mexico as tomate verde), husks removed
    3 or 4 whole chiles serranos
    1 bunch fresh cilantro, largest stems removed
    Sea salt to taste

    Hervido

    Procedure
    In a large pot of water, bring the tomatillos and chiles to a full rolling boil.  Boil just until the tomatillos begin to crack; watch them closely or they will disintegrate in the water.

    Listo para Licuar
    Using a slotted spoon, scoop the cooked tomatillos and chiles into your blender jar.  There's no need to add liquid.  Cover, hold the blender cap on, and blend until smooth.  Be careful not to burn yourself, this is a hot mixture and tends to react like lava in the blender.

    Listo para Licuar 2
    While the blender is running, remove the center of its cap and, little by little, push the cilantro into the whizzing sauce.  Blend just until smooth; you should still see big flecks of dark green cilantro in the lighter green sauce.  Add sea salt to taste and stir.

    Ya en la Salsa
    Pour the salsa into a 2-quart pot.  Add the meatballs and bring to a simmer.  Cover and allow to simmer for about 30 minutes.  Mexico Cooks! prepared six meatballs for our comida (main meal of the day), but two meatballs apiece were plenty for the two of us.  We ate the leftovers (and another two meatballs) the following day.  We froze twelve raw meatballs without salsa for subsequent meals.

    Para dar Hambre
    Albóndigas de pollo en salsa verde, plated with white rice cooked with carrots, Mexican style.

    Mexico Cooks! is so grateful to doña Yola for sharing her recipe with us.  These albóndigas de pollo are not only easy to prepare and very healthy (with high vitamin K and beta carotene content and no added fat), but they are also absolutely delicious.

    Provecho!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Fideos, One of Mexico’s Many Sopas–and a Peek at the Mexican Housewife’s Secret Ingredient

    Fideos Forkful 2 MC
    Meet sopa seca de lenguitas, one of Mexico's many so-called 'dry soups'.  This dry soup of tiny tongue-shaped pasta is one of Mexico Cooks!' favorite accompaniments to a home-style comida (Mexico's main meal of the day).

    Mexico eats a lot of soup, both sopa aguada (liquid soup) and sopa seca (dry soup).  I can hear some of you scratching your heads: dry soup? What?

    Here's the scoop on the soup:

    –Sopa aguada includes consomés, caldos (broths), and cremas (cream soups).  Consomé is clear broth made of chicken, beef, fish, or vegetables.  It's sometimes served plain and sometimes includes a bit of chicken or a few chopped vegetables.  

    Caldos can include caldo de pollo (Mexico's famous chicken soup, loaded with chicken and fresh vegetables), cocido (aka caldo de res, beef soup similar to caldo de pollo), caldo de camarón (shrimp broth), sopa de pasta (usually a tomato broth with plenty of small-size pasta cooked in it), and a long list of other kinds of caldos. Sopa azteca and sopa de tortilla also fall in the caldo category.  

    –Cremas
    , on the other hand, are cream soups.  Everyone is familiar with cream of mushroom, cream of spinach, and cream of broccoli soups, and Mexico has them, too. There are other cream soups that are more common in Mexico than in other parts of the world: crema de flor de calabaza (squash flower), crema de chile poblano, and crema de cilantro are a few of those.  Liquid soups like any of these are served as the first course of a comida corrida–a multi-course comida offered at a single price in fondas or cocinas económicas, small family-run restaurants popular all over Mexico.  Soups of all kinds are also offered on high-end restaurant menus.

    Crema de Flor de Calabaza Azul Histo?rico 1 Marzo 2016
    Crema de flor de calabaza, as served at Restaurante Azul/Histórico, Mexico City.  Each bowl of this soup contains 18 squash flowers!

    Now: what's the deal with these so-called sopas secas (dry soups)?  

    –A sopa seca is usually the second course of a comida corrida; sopa seca includes rice (arroz a la mexicana, arroz blanco, or arroz verde: Mexican red rice, steamed white rice, or rice cooked with various fragrant green herbs).  The dry soup category also includes pastas such as espaguetis con crema (spaghetti with cream sauce), macaronis con jamón y crema (macaroni with ham and cream), and others, which are lumped under the umbrella of fideos.  Fideos are any small-form pasta (angel hair, tiny shells, alphabet letters, gears, wee bow ties, etc.) cooked in broth until all of the broth is absorbed into the pasta.  

    Fideos Lenguas con Cebolla
    La Moderna has always been my favorite brand of small pasta for making fideos.  You'll probably be able to find this brand at a Latin market near you.  If not, you'll see other brands that you can substitute.

    We're going to learn how to make fideos right now.  This dish ranks up there with the simplest thing in the world and I guarantee you that this 'dry soup' will be a family favorite from the first time you put it on the table.

    Sopa Seca de Fideos

    Ingredients:
    1 200 gram package small pasta, La Moderna or other brand, any shape you like
    2-3 Tbsp lard or vegetable oil
    1/4 white onion, finely diced
    1 chile serrano, split from the tip almost to the stem end (stem removed)
    1 Tbsp Knorr Suiza Tomate bouillon powder, dissolved in 2 cups boiling water  (shhh, don't tell)

    Utensils:
    10" non-stick sauté pan with cover
    Wooden or plastic spoon
    1 Tbsp Measuring spoon
    2-cup heat-resistant measuring cup

    Procedure:
    In the sauté pan, melt the lard or heat the oil until either is just shimmering.  Add the finely diced onion and the split chile and stir over medium heat until the onion is soft and the chile has begun to blister. 

    Fideos a Dorar
    Beginning the sauté step.

    Add the fideos and continue to stir over low-to-medium fire until the pasta is light golden brown.  Be careful not to burn the onion.  At this point, you can remove the chile if you prefer that your fideos not have much picante (spicy hot) flavor.

    Fideos a Dorar 3
    Your fideos, toasty golden brown.

    Fideos Knorr Suiza Frasco
    The housewife's secret weapon: Knorr Suiza Tomate, a powdered bouillon concentrate for the times when you just don't want (or don't have the ingredients) to make a caldillo de jitomate (thin tomato broth).  You can also buy Knorr Suiza in boullion cubes; it also comes in beef, chicken, and shrimp flavors.  In 'homey' Mexican recipes, this convenient ingredient is often written knorrsuiza. High-end chefs look down their noses at knorrsuiza, so let's not tell any of them that we're using it today.

    Fideos Knorr Suiza Tomate
    Add a tablespoon of the knorrsuiza secret ingredient to 2 cups of water that you have brought to a boil.  I usually boil the water in the microwave, in a 2-cup measuring cup.

    Fideos Caldillo
    Stir until the secret ingredient is thoroughly dissolved.  

    Fideos a Hervir
    Bring the secret ingredient and the fideos, onions, and chile to a boil in the sauté pan.

    Fideos Tapados
    Lower the heat to very low and cover the sauté pan. Simmer for approximately 12-15 minutes, or until most of the liquid is absorbed and the fideos are tender.  Remove the pan from the heat.

    Fideos in a Bowl
    A little bowlful of the finished product.  You are welcome to eat your fideos plain, sprinkle the fideos with some crumbled queso fresco (fresh, semi-soft cheese) or with some crumbled queso Cotija, a hard, sharper cheese.

    Let me know how you like the fideos–and don't tell a soul that I made them with the housewife's secret ingredient!

    Provecho!  (Mexico's way to say bon appetit!)

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Mexico Cooks! Winter Tour to Oaxaca, Part V: Cooking with Celia Florián

    Celia Florian
    Our magnificent cooking teacher, Maestra Celia Florián, owner at Restaurante Las 15 Letras, Oaxaca.

    Sometime in late 2015, I was chatting with my dear friend Celia Florián, who asked when I would be going again to Oaxaca. "I'll be bringing a group of women in February!" One thing led to another and soon Celia and I had scheduled a cooking class for the group. We planned a menu, an early-morning shopping excursion at the municipal Mercado de la Merced, the group cooking class to follow, and the joy of sharing the finished products as our comida (main meal of the day) later in the afternoon.  I could barely contain my excitement at the thought of introducing this California tour group to one of the most generous and joyous traditional cooks in Mexico.

    The menu that Celia and I planned for the group included:

    –Garnachas del Istmo de Tehuantepec 
    –Sopa de Guías con Chochoyotes
    –Mole Verde con Espinazo y Alubias
    –Pastel de Elote estilo Las 15 Letras

    Las 15 Letras Hoja Santa, Quesillo, Chapuli?n
    Maestra Celia and her husband Fidel Méndez Sosa have been the proprietors of Restaurante Las 15 Letras since 1992; today, the restaurant is a favorite among Oaxaca locals and has also become a destination restaurant for in-the-know visitors, both Mexican and foreign.  The photo shows an elegant and delicious dish I ate at Las 15 Letras in February 2015: quesillo (Oaxaca cheese) wrapped in a spiral with chapulines (grasshoppers) and hoja santa (an anise-flavored leaf).

    Celia su Mama? Haciendo Tortillas 2
    Doña Carmen Florián, Maestra Celia Florián's now-elderly mother, continues to be able to make hand-made tortillas.  Maestra Celia says, "What one learns well is never forgotten.  My mother has been making tortillas since she was a little girl."

    Mercado de la Merced_edited-1
    Oaxaca's Mercado de la Merced is a small, friendly market serving its neighborhood.  It has become a magnet for Oaxaca cooks and food-oriented tourists, as well.  It suited the shopping needs of our group, and Maestra Celia was the perfect guide as we purchased the ingredients for our class and comida

    Celia Mercado de la Merced Jitomate Rin?o?n
    We purchased a few of Oaxaca's iconic jitomates riñon (kidney-shaped tomatoes) as part of what we needed to prepare the garnachas.

    Clase Charola de Garnachas
    The tray in the foreground contains the ingredients for the garnachas del Istmo de Tehuantepec.  Clockwise from the left: jitomates riñon (kidney-shaped tomatoes), queso de Chiapas (cheese from Chiapas), vinagre de frutas (Maestra Celia's home-made fruit vinegar), cabbage, onion, garlic, and a bowl of masa de maíz (corn dough).

    Clase Gorditas al Comal MC
    To make the garnachas, we first patted out gorditas (thick rounds of masa, each approximately three inches in diameter), and baked them on a metal comal (griddle).  

    Clase Judith Abriendo Gordita MC
    When the gorditas were completely cooked, we allowed them to cool for a few minutes.  Then we split them in half through the center and set them aside until ready to fill and serve as an entrada (appetizer).

    Clase Garnachas 3a MC
    The garnachas, ready to serve.  Each half of a gordita is topped with shredded beef, along with cabbage and sliced carrots lightly pickled in home-made fruit vinegar. Sprinkle with freshly crumbled cheese.  Add salsa made with jitomates riñon, if you are able to grow them or find them in a market.  Otherwise, use the vine-ripened flavorful in-season tomatoes of your choice.

    While the gorditas baked, we boiled lean beef for shredding as a topping for the garnachas.  Maestra Celia was careful to note that in preparing a multi-course meal, it's important to begin with the steps that take the longest amount of time, finishing with the preparation that takes less time.  That way, all of your menu is ready to serve and eat at approximately the same hour.

    Gui?a de calabaza
    Guías de calabaza
    (squash stems and tendrils) for our sopa de guías.  If you grow zucchini or know someone who does, you can use its tenderest young stems, leaves, and tendrils to make sopa de guías.

    Celia Mercado de la Merced Flor de Calabaza
    The recipe for sopa de guías (squash tendril soup) also calls for flor de calabaza (squash flowers).  In addition, we used fresh corn, still on the cob and sliced into rounds, and tender young chayote, cut into round slices.

    Clase Sopa de Gui?as con Flor MC
    We added the vegetables and herbs we prepared to simmering, lightly salted water and allowed them to boil gently just until the vegetables were tender.

    Clase Celia Pone Masa y Agua a la Sopa MC
    Maestra Celia adds blended water and masa to the soup to thicken it just a bit.  It should be not too watery, not too thick, but just right. You'll know.  Be sure to stir the mixture constantly until it thickens so that no lumps form.  Our group was profoundly moved by the immense love and respect that Maestra Celia imparted to us: for her country, her city, the market vendors, the ingredients, Oaxaca's traditions, and the act of cooking.  The food we prepared, prepared with this kind of love, had no chance but to turn out to be delicious. 

    Clase Sopa de Gui?as Chochoyotes MC
    While the soup continued to cook, we prepared chochoyotes (little masa dumplings) by making one inch spheres of masa, then pressing a fingertip into each one to make the indentation that you see in the photograph.  We then added the chochoyotes to the soup pot and allowed them to cook until tender.  Click on any photo to enlarge it for a better look.

    Clase Sopa de Gui?as MC
    Sopa de guías, ready for the table.  See the chochoyotes, just under the surface of the broth?

    Clase Charola Sopa de Gui?as MC
    This tray includes most of the ingredients for mole verde oaxaqueño.  Clockwise from left: herbs including cilantro and several herbs unique to Oaxaca, a bowl of masa, green beans, chile, onions, new potatoes, and chayote.  Rather than include a step-by-step for this simple (and simply extraordinary) recipe, I offer you Maestra Celia's recipe:
     
    Oaxaca-Style Green Mole with Pork 

    Ingredients

    3.5 lbs meaty pork neck bones
    2.2 lbs meaty pork back bones
    1/2 lb small alubias (or white navy beans), cooked until tender
    1/4 lb corn masa
    1 bunch parsley
    1 bunch cilantro
    1 bunch epazote (fresh, not dried)
    4 hoja santa leaves
    Salt to taste
    1/2 white onion, toasted
    1/2 head of garlic, toasted 
    3 cloves raw garlic, separate use
    1 chile serrano
    3 cloves
    1 white onion, sliced in wheels and 'cooked' in Key lime juice and oregano

    Procedure

    Boil the two kinds of pork in water, with garlic, onion, and salt.  When the meats are tender, drain them and reserve the pork stock.

    In the pork stock, blend the masa.  Strain and add it to the consomé, stirring little by little so that lumps do not form.  Blend the herbs together with the clove, the chile serrano*, and the roasted garlic and onion. Strain the liquid into the pot and allow them to boil.  Add the Blend the raw garlic with a little water and add to the pot. Correct the salt and remove the pot from the fire.

    *If you want the mole to be fairly spicy, use the entire chile serrano.  If you prefer less 'heat', add just half the chile. 

    For the garnish

    2 chayotes, cut into pieces
    A good-size handful of green beans, clean and with the stems removed
    Quartered medium-size potatoes, or if you use small potatoes as we did, you may leave them whole

    Boil these vegetables separately until they are tender. Drain and reserve.

    To serve

    The mole should be served in a bowl.  First add the pork meats and bones.  Cover with the green mole.  Top with the cooked vegetables.  Add a heaping tablespoonful of the cooked alubias to each bowl.  Add a few rings of white onion.

    Clase Mole Verde MC
    Mole verde oaxaqueño!

    Clase Pastel de Elote Better MC
    Because Restaurante Las 15 Letras was in the process of a remodel, our class was held at Maestra Celia's home.  Her staff brought our pastel de elote (corn cake) which had been baked at the restaurant; we did not prepare it ourselves, but we certainly ate it with gusto!  It was the perfect finish to a marvelous meal al estilo oaxaqueño–Oaxaca style!

    Celia Grupo Entero
    Our tour group.  Left to right: Judith Eshom, Gayla Pierce, Maestra Celia Florián, Mexico Cooks!, Holli DeLauro, and Robyn Cota Cann.  Back row: culinary school interns Cristina Flores (black cap) and Alonso Castillo, who assisted Maestra Celia and our group in the kitchen. Photo courtesy Alonso Castillo.

    Our class, the connections we made, and our meal were extraordinary.  Each of us felt that we had become very close to Maestra Celia during our time together. There were tears at parting, promises to stay in touch with her, promises to prepare these dishes for our families and friends–and my promise to pass information about this cultural and culinary event along to you.

    Oaxaca Luna Llena Camino Real 2
    Ending our tour in Oaxaca with a full moon and full hearts.  Thank you, California friends and Oaxaca friends, it was a joy to spend these days with you.

    If you'd like to schedule a tour in Oaxaca and would like to experience a cooking class with this most wonderful of teachers, please let me know.  I'd be happy to plan an itinerary for your group.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Calabaza en Tacha: Winter Squash Cooked in Piloncillo (Brown Sugar) Syrup

    Calabaza
    Calabaza de Castilla
    , the squash Mari brought me, seen here with a charming artisan-made cloth figure of a Purépecha woman with her miniature pottery.  The squash was about 8" high and weighed about three pounds.

    Mari, the woman who at one time spoiled Mexico Cooks! by doing all of my housework, gave me a squash.  She brought two home from her rancho (the family farm) out in the country, one for her and one for me.  The squash wasn't very big, as winter squash go, but it was plenty for us.  Mari's first question, after I had happily accepted her gift, was whether or not I knew how to cook it.  "Con piloncillo y canela, sí?" (With cones of brown sugar and cinnamon, right?) 

    Even though I knew how to spice the squash and knew how to cut it apart, knowing and doing these things turned out to be worlds apart.  Faced with the project, I waffled and hesitated, intimidated by a large vegetable.  The squash sat on the counter for several days, daring me to cook it before it molded.  Then one of the cats toppled it over and rolled it around the counter, so I moved the squash outside onto the terrace table and gathered my nerve. 

    On Sunday, I finally decided it was Cook the Squash day.  Mari was due to arrive early on Monday morning and it had to be done before she scolded me for letting it sit for so long.  I chose pots, knives, and gathered the rest of the simple ingredients for a mise en place.

    Calabaza Partida
    The squash with the first section cut out.

    Cutting the squash in sections was the only difficult part of preparing it.  The shell of the squash is hard.  Hard.  HARD.  I was careful to keep the knife pointed toward the wall, not toward my body.  With the force I needed to cut the squash open, one slip of the knife could have meant instant and deep penetration of my innards.  Later that night, our friend Araceli told us that her mother usually breaks a squash apart by throwing it onto the concrete patio!  The next morning, Mari told us that her husband had cut their squash apart with a machete.  I felt really tough, knowing that I'd been able to cut it open with just a big knife and a few pointed words.

    Calabaza en Trozos
    The squash, cut into sections and ready for the pot.  On the counter behind the squash is a 1930's Mexican covered cazuela (casserole), the top in the form of a turkey.

    Once I had the (few pointed words) squash cut open, I scooped out the seeds and goop and cut it into sections more or less 4" long by 3" wide.  I did not remove the hard shell, nor should you.

    Meantime, I had prepared the ingredients for the almíbar (thick syrup) that the squash would cook in.  Mexican stick cinnamon, granulated sugar, and piloncillo (cones of brown sugar) went into a pot of water.  I added a big pinch of salt, tied anise seed and cloves into a square of cheesecloth and tossed the little bundle into the water.  The pot needed to simmer for at least three hours, until the syrup was thick and well-flavored.

    Calabaza Especias
    Clockwise from left: Mexican stick cinnamon, anise seed, piloncillo, and cloves.

    Calabaza en Almíbar
    Several hours later (after the syrup thickened well), I added the pieces of squash to the pot.  Cooking time for this very hard squash was approximately an hour and a half over a low-medium flame. 

    As the squash cooks in the syrup, it softens and takes on a very appetizing dark brown color.  Calabaza en tacha is one of the most typically homey Mexican dishes for desayuno (breakfast) or cena (supper).  Well heated and served in a bowl with hot milk and a little of its own syrup, the squash is both nutritious and filling.

    Calabaza Lista Pa'Comer
    Squash for breakfast!  On Monday morning, Mexico Cooks! served up a bowl of squash with hot milk, along with a slice of pan relleno con chilacayote (bread filled with sweetened chilacayote squash paste).  Mari thought it was almost–almost–as good as hers.

    Calabaza en Tacha estilo Mexico Cooks!

    Ingredients
    One medium-size hard shell winter squash (about 8" high)
    6 cups water
    14 cones of dark piloncillo (coarse brown sugar)
    2 cups granulated sugar
    4 Mexican cinnamon sticks about 2.5" long
    1 Tbsp anise seed
    1 tsp cloves

    Preparation
    Heat the water in a large pot.  Add the piloncillo, the granulated sugar, and the cinnamon sticks.  Tie the anise seed and the cloves into a cheesecloth square and add it to the pot.  Cook over a slow flame until the liquid is thick and syrupy, approximately three hours.

    While the syrup is cooking, prepare the squash.  Cut it into serving-size pieces as described above.  If the squash shell is very hard, take adequate precautions so that you do not hurt yourself as you cut it in sections.  You can always throw it from your second-floor window onto the patio!

    Add the squash pieces to the thickened syrup and simmer until the squash is soft and takes on a deep brown color.  Cool for 15 minutes or so before serving.  Re-heat for desayuno (breakfast) or cena (supper).  Serve with hot milk poured over it.

    Makes about 16 servings.

    ¡Provecho!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Adobo de Cerdo Huasteco, from Verde Blanco y Rojo by Ricardo Muñoz Zurita

    Originally published in October 2011, this illustrated recipe for Adobo de Cerdo Huasteco is a perfect meal for February's chilly weather.  Mexico Cooks! celebrates its ninth anniversary of publishing with this delicious meal to warm body and soul.  Enjoy!

    Adobo Asando Cebolla y Jitomate
    Roma tomatoes and onion quarters toasting on a comal (in this case, a cast iron griddle).  That little tomato on the right looks downright happy to be toasting.

    Several months ago, Mexico Cooks! was thrilled to receive a copy of Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's newest recetario (cookbook), titled Verde, Blanco, y Rojo en la Cocina Mexicana.  Due to the pressures of moving and settling into a new and somewhat more frenetic life in Mexico City, the very attractive book sat patiently in the kitchen bookshelf with its 150 or so brother and sister cookbooks, waiting to be chosen.  'Choose me, choose me!' it whispered each time I passed by the shelf.  And finally I listened.

    Adobo Carne de Puerco a Hervir
    Serving-size pieces of maciza de cerdo (lean, fresh pork leg) simmering with onion and garlic.

    My friends and I are very fond of traditional Mexican cuisine.  Like most people, we have our favorite dishes.  And like most people, I have a hard time breaking habits and wading into a new cookbook: it means learning a new format, a new organization of ingredients, and a new dish that I had never prepared. 

    The first task was reading the recipe all the way through to the end to make sure that I had all of the ingredients and utensils on hand prior to starting to cook and that I understood the order of cooking.  It's really no fun at all to start the preparations and discover at the time of need that oops, there is no garlic and ouch, that one bowl I really wanted to use is full of last night's stew.  You'll want to organize yourself and prepare your mise en place (all ingredients in place, ready to cook) well before you turn on the stove.

    Adobo Chile Ancho Contraluz
    Differentiating between dried chiles ancho and chiles mulato can be confusing.  If you open a chile ancho and hold it up to the light, it looks from the inside like red stained glass.  The mulato, on the other hand, looks brown when held to the light.  It's immediately apparent which this is.  Always try to buy chiles that are leathery and flexible, not brittle.

    Ingredients
    2 kg (approximately 4.5 pounds) lean pork meat, cut into serving-size pieces
    1 white onion, cut into quarters
    1 head of garlic, split in half
    4 liters water
    6 tsp salt
    8 chiles guajillo
    5 large chiles ancho
    3 large tomatos, roasted
    1/2 white onion, quartered and roasted
    5 garlic cloves
    2 tsp ground cumin
    1 tsp dry Mexican oregano, crumbled
    1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    4 cloves
    3 Tbsp pork lard (you can substitute oil if you can't get real, freshly rendered lard)
    1/2 cup white vinegar

    Utensils 
    Comal or griddle
    Mesh strainer
    Several small or medium-size mixing bowls
    Mixing spoons
    Heavy-bottom pot with lid
    Blender

    Adobo Asando Chiles Anchos
    Toasting the chiles ancho on the comal.

     Adobo Asando Chiles Guajillos
    Toasting the chiles guajillo on the comal.

    Procedure
    Put the pork, onion, and head of garlic in a large pot.  Cover with water, add 4 tsp salt and bring to a boil.  Lower the heat until the water is down to a simmer and cook until the pork is tender, about an hour.  Remove the pork from the water, drain the liquid into a bowl, and reserve both the meat and the cooking liquid for later use.

    Remove the stems, seeds, and veins from all of the chiles and discard them.  Lightly toast the chiles on the comal, being careful not to burn them.  If they turn black, they will be bitter.  Soak the toasted chiles in four cups of the reserved cooking liquid from the pork.

    Adobo Chiles Remojándose
    Both types of toasted chiles are then soaked for a few minutes in some of the freshly cooked hot pork broth.

    Blend the soaked chiles with enough of the cooking liquid to make a smooth, somewhat liquid paste. 

    Roast the tomatoes, onions, and garlic on the comal, then blend them until they make a very smooth sauce.  If necessary for blending, add just a little of the reserved meat cooking liquid.  Using the wire mesh strainer, strain into a bowl and reserve. 

    Adobo Chiles Molidos Caldo y Especias
    The mix of various seasonings (foreground), the blended and strained chiles (left rear) and the blended tomato/onion/garlic mixture (right rear).  

    Grind the cumin, the oregano, the pepper, and the cloves together until they are powdered.  Set aside for later use.

    Over a high flame, heat the lard or oil in a heavy-bottomed pot until it smokes slightly.  Add the ground chiles (splatter alert!) and fry for about 15 minutes or until the mixture is reduced by about one-fourth.  Add the blended tomato mixture, the spices, and two tablespoons of salt.  When the mixture comes to a boil, lower the fire and allow to simmer until the sauce has reduced a little.

    Adobo en la Olla
    The pork now needs to simmer in the adobo for an hour or more, either in the oven or over a very low fire.  The fragrance will drive you crazy, it is so tantalizing.  Mexico Cooks! prepared this recipe on top of the stove using the cast iron comal as a heat diffuser.

    Add the meat, the vinegar, and three cups of the reserved meat cooking liquid.  Correct the seasonings and cook with the lid ajar over low heat (or bake covered in a 350° oven) for about an hour.  The finished sauce should be thick enough to cover the meat without sliding off the pieces.  

    Adobo en el Plato
    Adobo de cerdo huasteco, ready to eat!  Serve the dish with steamed white rice and plenty of hot-off-the-comal corn tortillas.

    The finished recipe also freezes very well.  Mexico Cooks! served half the recipe as comida for six and froze the rest for a later meal. 

    Serves 12. 

    Adobo Verde Blanco Rojo Larousse
    The wonderful Spanish-language Verde, Blanco, Rojo en La Cocina Mexicana, written by my friend Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita of Restaurante Azul/Condesa.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours. 

  • Carne de Cerdo en Salsa Verde (Pork in Green Sauce): You Asked For It, You Got It!

    This recipe, initially published in the early days of Mexico Cooks!, continues to be the most popular of all our articles.  Any time of year, but especially in the winter months in frigid climates, you and your family and guests will relish the warmth of this delicious dish. Enjoy!

    Tomate y Chile
    Tomatillos with their husks and fresh chiles serrano.

    If you are like most cooks–Mexico Cooks! included–there are times when you want to astonish your guests with your intricate culinary skills by preparing the most complicated and time-consuming recipes you know.  A seven-course Szechuan dinner that I prepared several years ago comes immediately to mind; it took me several days to recover just from the preparations. 

    Then there are other times when you want to prepare something relatively quick but still completely delicious and which will inevitably win raves from your companions at table.  This recipe for pork in green salsa completely satisfies both requirements.  It's my never-fail dish for many company dinners.  

    Although there are other ways to prepare the dish (griddle-roasting rather than boiling the vegetables for the sauce or leaving out the steps of flouring and browning the meat, for example), this is my favorite method.

    Carne de Cerdo en Salsa Verde (Pork in Green Chile Sauce)
    Six generous servings

    Ingredients
    Salsa verde (Green sauce)
    1 pound tomatillos (known in Mexico as tomate verde), husks removed
    4 or 5 whole chiles serrano, depending on your tolerance for picante (spiciness)
    1/2 medium white onion, coarsely chopped
    1 clove garlic (optional)
    1 medium bunch fresh cilantro, largest stems removed
    Sea salt to taste

    Manojo de Cilantro
    Fresh cilantro.

    Carne de cerdo (Pork Meat)
    1 kilo (2.2 pounds) very lean fresh pork butt, cut into 2" cubes
    White flour
    Salt
    Oil or lard sufficient for frying the pork

    Preparation
    Salsa verde
    In a large pot of water over high heat, bring the tomatillos and chiles (and garlic, if you choose to use it) to a full rolling boil.  Boil just until the tomatillos begin to crack; watch them closely or they will disintegrate in the water.

    Hervido
    Let the tomatillos and chiles (and garlic, if you like) boil until the tomatillos begin to crack.

    Using a slotted spoon, scoop the cooked tomatillos, salt, and chiles into your blender jar.  There's no need to add liquid at first, but reserve the liquid in which the vegetables boiled until you see the thickness of your sauce.  You might want to thin it slightly and the cooking liquid will not dilute the flavor. Set the vegetables aside to cool for about half an hour.  Once they are cool, cover the blender, hold the blender cap on, and blend all the vegetables, including the chopped onion, until you have a smooth sauce. 

    Be careful to allow the tomatillos and chiles to cool before you blend them; blending them while they are fresh from the boiling water could easily cause you to burn yourself, the hot mixture tends to react like molten lava in the blender.  (Note: don't ask me how I know this.) 

    Listo para Licuar
    In the blender, the boiled and cooled tomatillos and chiles.  The cilantro goes in last.

    While the blender is running, remove the center of its cap and, little by little, push the cilantro into the whizzing sauce.  Blend just until smooth; you should still see big flecks of dark green cilantro in the lighter green sauce.  Test the salt and correct if necessary.  Reserve the sauce for later use.

    Carne Dorada
    Golden brown pork cubes.

    Carne de Cerdo (Pork Meat)
    Preheat oven to 170°C or 350°F.

    Pat the 2" pork cubes as dry as possible with paper towels.

    Put about 1/4 cup flour in a plastic grocery-size bag.  Add 1/2 tsp salt.  Melt the lard over high heat in a large heavy oven-proof casserole.  While the lard is melting, shake about 1/4 of the cubed pork in the salted flour.  When the oil or lard begins to smoke, add the floured pork cubes, being careful not to dump the flour into the pan.  Cover the pan.  As the pork cubes brown, shake another 1/4 of the pork cubes in flour and salt.  Turn the pork cubes until all sides are golden brown.  Remove browned cubes to a bowl and reserve.  Add more floured pork to the hot lard.  You may need more oil or lard as well as more salted flour.  Repeat until all pork cubes are well browned.  Reserve the browned pork in the same pan, scraping the crispy bits from the bottom.

    Add the sauce to the pork cubes in the casserole, making sure that all the cubes are immersed in sauce.  Cover and put the casserole into the oven, reducing the heat to 160°C or 325°F.  Bake for two hours.  Add cooking liquid from the vegetables if necessary to keep the sauce relatively thick but not sticking to the casserole.  The pork will be fork-tender and the green sauce will take on a rich, deep, pork-y flavor and color.

    Carne y Salsa Listo para Hornear
    The browned pork cubes and green sauce, ready to be baked.  This particular batch of carne de cerdo en salsa verde was a little more than double the recipe included here.  The recipe is very forgiving and can easily be doubled or tripled to fit the number of guests on your dinner party list.  If a whole recipe is too much for your needs, make it anyway: it freezes very well.

    Serve with arroz blanco (steamed white rice) or arroz a la mexicana (red rice), refried beans, a colorful, contrasting vegetable, and fresh, hot tortillas.  Mexico Cooks!' money-back guarantee: everyone will come back for seconds.

    Provecho!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

     

  • Kitchen and Countryside Mexico 2015: A Recap of Some of Our Favorite Things

    Rosca de Reyes 2015
    In Mexico, once we've rung in the New Year, the next party is ordinarily for Los Reyes Magos–the Three Kings–on January 6, their feast day. The photo above shows the traditional Mexican Rosca de Reyes (Kings' Bread) that is eaten (accompanied by a cup or two of delicious Mexican hot chocolate) at just about every table in the country on that day.  The sweet, rich dough is rolled into an oval or a ring and then decorated with sugar, ates of various flavors (similar to fruit leather), nuts, and then baked.  So what's the big deal?  Inside the dough, bakers hide a tiny figure of the Niño Dios (Baby Jesus). There's great hilarity as the rosca is sliced: who will get the muñeco (little figure)? The person who finds the baby in his or her slice is required to throw another party on Candelaria (Candlemas Day), February 2: tamales and atole (a thick, sweet corn-based drink) for everyone!  February 2 is the official end of the Christmas season in Mexico.

    DyA Boda Mano en Mano
    February took Mexico Cooks! to Oaxaca, invited to the wedding of dear friends Diana Miller and Adán Paredes. The wedding festivities lasted three days–we don't do things by half here!–and the guests still sigh and smile when we think or talk about the event's joyous beauty. The civil ceremony was a marvelous cocktail party and opportunity to socialize with everyone; the morning of the spiritual ceremony, Mexico Cooks! gave two Oaxaca market tours to guests from northern Mexico. Later that afternoon, a traditional Zapotec chamán and his wife presided over the spiritual ceremony (followed by all-night dining and dancing!), and the third day we toured with the wedding party to a market south of Oaxaca city and then shared a joyous meal at the ever-marvelous restaurant La Teca.  It was only February, but we knew that no other event on the 2015 calendar would come close to matching this thrilling weekend.

    Pujol Huevo Escondido
    March found Mexico Cooks! at Pujol, Enrique Olvera's flagship restaurant in Mexico City.  Invited by a serious lover of food in all its aspects, we were not disappointed. In fact, we were overwhelmed by everything about our meal: the room, the service, and most of all, the food. There was no room at all for improvement: everything we experienced was perfect.

    Gai Lan Estilo Jing Teng
    In April, we were back at Jing Teng, our favorite Chinese restaurant in all of Mexico.  Yes: not just Mexico City, but the entire country.  The photo shows perfectly cooked gai lan (Chinese broccoli) with garlic, one of the you-absolutely-gotta-get-it dishes on the menu.

    Aquiles y Rosalba Pejelagarto 1
    Morelia en Boca, an international food and wine festival, takes place in Morelia, Michoacán on the last weekend of each May, and we were there.  This fish is a pejelagarto, an enormous fish found primarily in the Mexican state of Tabasco.  Look at its needle-teeth!  The pejelagarto has no scales; its skin is like a suit of armor.  This section of the fish was about one-third of its length; it measured between three and four feet long.  World-acclaimed chef Aquiles Chávez brought this giant animal from Tabasco and cooked it (turning it with a broomstick rammed down its throat, all the way to the other end) over an open fire on the festival stage!  The demonstration conference also included Rosalba Morales Bartolo of San Jerónimo Purenchécuaro, Michoacán, who prepared her famously delicious charales (fish as tiny as the pejelagarto is huge) in the style her grandmother taught her.  This was without doubt the single best food conference I have ever attended; the skill, knowledge, and sense of humor on the part of both participants combined to receive a standing ovation at conference end.

    Tocinera La Guadalupana
    June (and every other month of the year) took Mexico Cooks! on tour with various groups from the United States, Canada, and other countries from around the worl
    d.  This pork butcher's sign is always a favorite photo opportunity: unsuspecting little pig mariachis sing for somebody's supper!

    San Hipo?lito Muchacho Cholo
    An old friend, visiting me in Mexico City, was as interested as I in visiting the church of San Hipólito, in Mexico City's Centro Histórico.  The 28th of each month, Masses are offered all day in honor of San Judas Tadeo. My friend and I were there on July 28, among a crowd that numbered in the thousands.  On San Judas Tadeo's actual October feast day, the crowds number in the hundreds of thousands. 

    Amigas Encuentro Nacional 8-15
    The Primer Encuentro Nacional de Cocineras Tradicionales (first national reunion of traditional cooks) in Morelia, Michoacán, in August 2015 brought together home cooks from 25 of the 31 Mexican states–plus the Federal District.  Many of us who attended are long-time friends who see one another only occasionally. This memorable photo includes (L to R): Celia Florián from Oaxaca, Alma Cervantes Cota from Sinaloa and currently living in Mexico City, Susana Trilling of Seasons of My Heart cooking school in Oaxaca, Mexico Cooks!, and Calletana Nambo from Erongarícuaro, Michoacán.  We spent hours around that table, eating, drinking mezcal, and gossiping catching up with one another.

    Mercado de Jamaica Wild Mushrooms 2 Sept 2015
    The rainy season in central Mexico begins in mid-May and lasts until the beginning of November.  During that time, wild mushrooms spring up in Mexico's oak and pine forests, especially in the more mountainous states.  This vendor, who was too busy selling on this September day to tell me her name, brought mushrooms that she and her family foraged to sell in Mexico City's markets.  Fresh chanterelles, boletes, and morels make up most of her wares.  I bought a pound of fresh morels (approximately 80 pesos, or $4.50USD), gave half to my neighbor, and made a pasta sauce of the rest.  Click on the photo to enlarge it and better see the mushrooms.  

    Quiroga Taco de Carnitas
    In late October we were in Quiroga, Michoacán, for carnitas.  These, from a street stand under the traffic light downtown, are in my opinion the best carnitas in town.  The vendor gave us this taco as a taste–just to see if we'd like what he was selling.  Yes, it was exactly as enormous as it looks. And yes, we bought another half-kilo of carnitas to share among our group.  The carnitas come with fresh tortillas, limones, and several kinds of salsas.  Soft drinks and aguas frescas are available at a booth near your communal-seating outdoor table, and someone will come by your table to ask if you want to buy a cupful of guacamole.  Yes, you do.

    Suzanne Cope and Rocco Jamaica 10-8-2015
    October gets two mentions!  Suzanne Cope and her family came to Mexico City in the early Fall to tour with Mexico Cooks!.  This sweet toddler is her son Rocco, who fell in love with a pig head at one of Mexico City's best markets. Who knows, you might fall in love with a pig head too!

    Azul Histo?rico Crema de Flor de Calabaza 2 11-15
    A friend from Washington, D.C., ordered this bowl of crema de flor de calabaza at Restaurante Azul/Histórico in Mexico City in mid-November.  She graciously let me taste it.  This cream soup was without question one of the best I've ever tasted.  Our waiter told us that each bowl contains 18 squash flowers plus the one used as decoration.  Did you know that only male squash blossoms are harvested for food? The female blossoms are left on the vines to allow squash to form.

    Shrimp Muenie?re Dec 2015
    Just in case you might think that Mexico Cooks! never cooks at home: a Dece
    mber dish of beautiful shrimp muenìere, served over fettucine.

    Where will we travel and what will we eat in 2016?  You're welcome to come along, whether to a market, a restaurant, or an exciting festival in Mexico City, Michoacán, or Oaxaca.  Mexico City, just named the top travel destination in the world by the New York Times, is waiting for you.  When you're ready to visit, Mexico Cooks! will gladly show you all the hot spots.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tour