Category: Recipe

  • Chiles en Nogada at Restaurante Azul Histórico :: El Rey de los Chiles (the King of Chiles)

    Azul Histórico 2
    Azul Histórico, a star of the constellation of three restaurants that make up Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's Grupo Azul, has become one of Mexico Cooks!' favorite destinations for comida (Mexico's midday main meal).  Nestled under a canopy of trees in the patio of a 17th century Mexican palace, the restaurant is among the most beautiful–and most delicious–in Mexico's capital city.

    Azul Histórico Menu
    We recently insisted that a dear friend visiting from Texas accompany us to experience the once-a-year delight of chiles en nogada, stuffed with a special picadillo (meat, fruit, and vegetable hash) and then bathed with walnut sauce, as presented and served at Restaurante Azul Histórico.  In last week's Mexico Cooks! article, we shared a terrific recipe for chiles en nogada with you. Today, we'll see the chiles, considered to be the king of Mexico's cuisine, and honored as such at table in the restaurant.

    Azul Histórico Sopa de Tortilla
    Our friend, who serves sopa de tortilla (tortilla soup) in his own restaurant, wanted to try the version served at Azul Histórico.

    Azul HIstórico Salpicón de Venado
    Four of us shared a small order of mildly spicy, delicious salpicón de venado (venison, cooked, seasoned with onion, pepper, vinegar, oil, and salt, and shredded).

    Plate Service for the Chile
    Once we finished our appetizers, two of our extremely competent wait staff laid the table with a long black linen tablecloth, plus colorful appliquéd individual placemats and extra candles, all in honor of the king of chiles. The plates, also in special use for chiles en nogada, are talavera pottery from the city of Puebla, where chiles en nogada originated.

    Platón de Chiles para Escoger
    The serving platter of chiles.  Each color ribbon indicates the type stuffing in each chile.  The choices are:

    • red ribbons from Atlixco, Puebla.  The filling is composed of a complex picadillo with quite a lot of fruit. 
    • green ribbons from Coxcatlán, Puebla.  The filling is shredded pork, with more spices and less fruit than the first.
    • grey ribbons from Puebla de los Ángeles, Puebla.  The filling is beef with fruits and spices, for those who prefer not to eat pork.

    Azul Histórico Chile on the Plate
    I chose the chile from Atlixco, Puebla.  At the Azul restaurants and at most others, the chile is roasted, peeled, and seeded prior to stuffing, but is not coated with a stiffly beaten egg coating. The significance of the colors of the chile en nogada is the vision of the Mexican flag on your plate: green, white, and red. Were it coated and fried, the green would not be visible. The chile's red ribbon (and yellow flower) are removable.  The blue and white sphere with the red ribbon are part of the table decor that honors the chile.

    Azul Histórico Chile dos Nogadas 
    Once the chile is on your plate, the waiter serves the nogada (walnut sauce). At the Azul restaurants, the diner may choose savory or sweet nogada, or a combination of the two.  I chose the combination. The waiter poured the thicker nogada salada (savory) onto the half of the chile near the tip; he then poured smooth nogada dulce (sweet) onto the half closer to the stem.  In the photo, you can easily see the dividing line between the two nogadas.

    Azul Histórico Chile en Nogada
    After the waiter bathes the chile with its walnut sauce(s), he garnishes it with seasonal pomegranate seeds and then with a sprig of parsley. Voilà, presenting Su Majestad el Chile en Nogada!

    Azul Histórico Chile Eaten
    You can see the rich filling inside the chile.  Last week's Mexico Cooks! article gives you an excellent recipe to make your own chiles en nogada.  If you try it, please let us know how delicious it was!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Everything But the Squeal :: Mexico Eats Pork, Nose to Tail

    Azul Cochinita
    Cochinita pibil from the Yucatán (seasoned pork, slow-cooked and then shredded), a specialty of Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's Restaurante Azul/Condesa.  Served in a banana leaf with a topping of pickled red onion, it's delicious.

    Mexico is one of the largest producers and consumers of pork in the world, second only to China.  In spite of the 'swine flu' crisis several years ago, Mexico continues to eat pork at a record-breaking pace and, every year, to export millions of tons of pork to other countries.  (FIRA

    Puercos en Camión
    From the growers' farms to a rastro (slaughterhouse) is a speedy ride along one of Mexico's super-highways.  A truck like this one, loaded with pigs, is an everyday sight throughout Mexico.  Photo courtesy ROTOV.

    Mexico is not nearly as squeamish as the United States in seeing where its carne de cerdo (pork meat) comes from.  In fact, a stroll through just about any city market or tianguis (street market) will give ample evidence that meat–including pork meat–comes from an animal, not from a sterile, platic-wrapped styrofoam meat tray at a supermarket.  

    Pig Head
    Every part of the pig is used in Mexico's kitchens.  The head is ordinarily used to make pozole, a rich stew of pork meat, reconstituted dried corn, spices, and condiments.  

    No pork existed in Mexico until after the Spanish conquest; in fact, no domestic animals other than the xoloitzcuintle dog were used for food.  The sources of animal protein were fish, frogs, and other water creatures, wild Muscovy-type ducks, the javalí (wild boar), about 200 varieties of edible insects, doves and the turkey, all native to what is now Mexico.  

    Hog Heaven Pig Tails
    Mexico has been cooking head-to-tail since long before that notion came into international vogue.  Pig tails are used here for roasting–look for recipes for rabo de cerdo asado (roast pig tail).  In addition, when a butcher is preparing pork carnitas, tails, ears, snouts, tongues, and indeed, everything but the squeal goes into the cazo (enormous cooking cauldron used to boil carnitas in lard).

    Quiroga Taco de Carnitas
    A carnitas taco from Quiroga, Michoacán.  

    Pig Mariachi Mercado de Jamaica August 2013
    No matter that just below these jolly mariachi pigs at Mexico City's Mercado de Jamaica, their once-live counterparts lie ready for the butcher's knife.  These fellows play on!

    Chicharrón 3
    Chicharrón (fried pig skin) is prepared fresh every day by butchers whose specialty is pork.  Nothing goes to waste. In fact, about 75% of the pig skins used to make chicharrón are imported to Mexico from the United States, where the market for pig skin is relatively small.

    Just about any Mexican butcher worth his stripes can custom-cut whatever portion of the pig you need for meal preparation.  In case you're not 100% familiar with the names of Mexican cuts, here are two pork cut charts, first in English and then in Spanish for comparison.

    Pork Cuts English
    Pork cuts chart in English.  Click to enlarge the image for better viewing.

    Pork Cuts Chart Spanish
    Pork cuts chart in Spanish.  Even in Spanish, many cuts have different names depending on which country names them.  Again, click to enlarge the image for a better view.

    Mercado SJ Lechón
    These suckling pigs were butchered at 6 weeks to 3 months old.  Known in Mexico as lechón, roast suckling pig is a delicacy by any name.  Many restaurants in Mexico specialize in its preparation.

    Tacos al Pastor Calle Uruguay DF
    One of the most common and popular (and really delicious) kinds of street taco is tacos al pastor (shepherd style tacos).  This preparation comes from Mexico City.  Marinate thinly sliced pork meat in a sauce made of chiles guajillo, vinegar, and tomato. Next, layer the slices on a vertical spit so that they form the shape of a spinning top.  At the top of the meat, place a pineapple without skin.  Light the fire in the grate behind the spit and allow a portion of the meat to cook until slightly caramelized on the edges and tender within.  Slice into very thin pieces, using them to fill a tortilla warmed on the flattop.  With your sharp knife, flick a small section of the pineapple into the taco.  Add the salsa you prefer, some minced onion and cilantro, and ahhhhh…the taste of Mexico!

    Pozole Moctezuma Pozole
    Pozole can be red, white, or green.  In this case, it's green, a specialty of the state of Guerrero.  This pozole is made with pork, the broth is thickened with ground pepitas (pumpkin seeds), and you'll find a wonderful amount of maíz para pozole (nixtamal-ized dried corn) in every spoonful.  That's not broccoli in the broth–it's a big chunk of avocado!  On the side of the bowl at center is a piece of chicharrón (fried pork skin) and next to it at the left, a crisp tostada smeared with delicious crema (Mexican table cream).

    Titita Manitas de Cerdo
    Manitas de cerdo: pickled pigs' feet.  The well-scrubbed feet are cooked in salted water, then added to vegetables cooked in a pickling solution of vinegar, chile, vegetables, and herbs.  In Mexico, manitas de cerdo can be eaten as either a botana (snack) or a main dish.

    Pátzcuaro Carnitas
    One of my personal favorite pork dishes: carnitas from Michoacán!  These carnitas in particular are the best I've ever eaten: large hunks of pork are boiled in lard until crispy on the outside, succulent and juicy on the inside.  Chopped roughly and served with various salsas, they make the best tacos I know.  Find these at Carnitas Aeropuerto, in Zamora, Michoacán.

    Adobo en el Plato
    Adobo huasteco, another deliciously spicy pork dish.  It's been a while since this last appeared on my table–and it's high time I prepared it again.  Click on the link for the recipe.

    Hog Heaven Bouquet de Cabezas
    Last but not least, here's a rosy bouquet of pig heads for sale at the Mercado de Jamaica in Mexico City.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Adobo de Cerdo Huasteco (Pork in Huastecan Adobo Sauce), from “Verde, Blanco, y Rojo” by Ricardo Muñoz Zurita

    Adobo Asando Cebolla y Jitomate
    Roasting Roma tomatoes and onion quarters on a comal (in this case, a cast iron griddle).  That little tomato on the right looks downright happy to be toasting.

    Several years ago, Mexico Cooks! was thrilled to receive a copy of Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's newest recetario (cookbook), titled Verde, Blanco, y Rojo en la Cocina Mexicana.  Due to the pressures of moving and settling into a somewhat more frenetic life in Mexico City, the very attractive book sat patiently in the kitchen bookshelf with its 150 or so brother and sister cookbooks, waiting to be chosen.  'Choose me, choose me!' it whispered each time I passed by the shelf.  And finally I listened.

    Adobo Carne de Puerco a Hervir
    Fairly large pieces of maciza de cerdo (lean, fresh pork leg) simmering with onion and garlic.

    My friends and I are very fond of traditional Mexican cuisine.  Like most people, we have our favorite dishes.  And like most people, I have a hard time breaking habits and wading into a new cookbook: it means learning a new format, a new organization of ingredients, and a new dish that I have never prepared. 

    The first task was reading the recipe all the way through to the end to make sure that I had all of the ingredients and utensils on hand prior to starting to cook and that I understood the order of cooking.  It's really no fun at all to start the preparations and discover at the time of need that oops, there is no garlic in its basket and ouch, that one bowl I really wanted to use is full of last night's stew.  You'll want to organize yourself and prepare your mise en place well before you turn on the stove. 

    Adobo Chile Ancho Contraluz
    Differentiating between dried chiles ancho and chiles mulato, which look similar on the outside, can be confusing.  If you open a chile ancho and hold it up to the light, it looks from the inside like red stained glass.  The mulato, on the other hand, looks brown when held to the light.  It's immediately apparent which this is.

    Adobo de Cerdo Huasteco
    Serves 12

    Ingredients
    2 kg (approximately 4.5 pounds) lean pork meat, cut into serving-size pieces
    1 white onion, cut into quarters
    1 head of garlic, split in half
    4 liters water
    4 tsp salt
    8 chiles guajillo
    5 large chiles ancho
    3 large tomatos, roasted
    1/2 white onion, quartered and roasted
    5 garlic cloves
    2 tsp ground cumin
    1 tsp dry Mexican oregano, crumbled
    1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    4 cloves
    3 Tbsp pork lard (you can substitute oil if you can't get real rendered lard)
    1/2 cup white vinegar
      

    Adobo Asando Chiles Anchos
    Toasting the chiles ancho on the comal.

    Utensils 
    Comal or griddle
    Mesh strainer
    Several small or medium-size mixing bowls
    Mixing spoons
    Heavy-bottom pot with lid
    Blender

     Adobo Asando Chiles Guajillos
    Toasting the chiles guajillo on the comal.

    Procedure
    Put the pork, onion, and split-open head of garlic in a large pot.  Cover with water, add 4 tsp salt and bring to a boil.  Lower the heat until the water is simmering and cook until the pork is tender, about an hour to an hour and a half.  Remove the pork from the water, drain the liquid into a bowl, and reserve both the meat and the cooking liquid for later use.

    Remove the stems, seeds, and veins from all of the chiles and discard them.  Lightly toast the chiles on the comal, being careful not to burn them.  If they burn, they will be bitter.  Soak the toasted chiles in four cups of the reserved cooking liquid from the pork.

    Blend the soaked chiles with enough of the cooking liquid to make a smooth, somewhat liquid paste. 

    Roast the tomatoes, onions, and remaining five cloves of garlic on the comal, then blend them until they make a very smooth sauce.  If necessary for blending, add just a little of the reserved meat cooking liquid.  Using the wire mesh strainer, strain and reserve. 

    Grind the cumin, the oregano, the pepper, and the cloves together until they are powdered.  Set aside for later use.

    Over a high flame, heat the lard or oil in a heavy-bottomed pot until it smokes slightly.  Add the ground chiles (splatter alert!) and fry for about 15 minutes or until the mixture is reduced by about one-fourth.  Add the blended tomato mixture, the spices, and salt to taste.  When the mixture comes to a boil, lower the fire and allow to simmer until the sauce has reduced a little.

    Add the meat, the vinegar, and three cups of the reserved meat cooking liquid.  Correct the seasonings and cook with the lid ajar over low heat (or bake covered in a 350° oven) for about an hour.  The finished sauce should be thick enough to cover the meat without sliding off the pieces.  Correct the salt and serve.

    The finished recipe also freezes very well.  Mexico Cooks! served half the recipe as comida for six and froze the rest for a later meal. 

    Adobo Chiles Remojándose
    Both types of toasted chiles then soaked for a few minutes in some of the freshly cooked hot pork broth.

    Adobo Chiles Molidos Caldo y Especias
    The mix of various seasonings (foreground), the blended and strained chiles (left rear) and the blended tomato/onion/garlic mixture (right rear). 

    Adobo en la Olla
    The pork now needs to simmer in the adobo for an hour or more, either in the oven or over a very low fire.  The fragrance will drive you crazy, it is so tantalizing.  Mexico Cooks! prepared this recipe on top of the stove using the cast iron comal as a heat diffuser. 

    Adobo en el Plato
    Adobo de cerdo huasteco, ready to eat!  Serve the dish with steamed white rice, the green vegetable of your choice, and plenty of hot-off-the-comal corn tortillas.

    Adobo Verde Blanco Rojo Larousse
    The wonderful Spanish-language Verde, Blanco, Rojo en La Cocina Mexicana, by my friend Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita of the three Mexico City Restaurantes Azul.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours. 

  • Desayuno de Campeones, Breakfast of Champions: What Breakfast in Mexico is All About

    Classic American Breakfast Cold Cereal
    A classic quick breakfast in the USA, circa 1950s: cold unsweetened cereal–probably corn flakes–with a banana, milk, and sugar.

    Several times a month, Mexico Cooks! receives vacation-time queries from folks in the United States about mealtimes and what's eaten at breakfast, lunch, and dinner when one is in Mexico.  It can be challenging to plan a trip to any country, including Mexico, where mealtimes are different from what you might think of as 'normal'.  This week and for the next two weeks here at Mexico Cooks!, you'll learn more about meals and mealtimes.  

    Conchas
    In Mexico, a huge variety of pan dulce (sweet bread) is available for breakfast.  These are conchas (shells), so-called because of the shell-like design impressed into their sugared tops. Have your pan dulce with either hot chocolate, coffee, or a steaming cup of atole (a corn-based hot beverage).

    It can be even more challenging for anyone raised in one frame of reference to understand that breakfast isn't always about what you have  thought of as your first meal of the day, since you were a child.  Many years ago, when I was first living in Mexico, the light bulb came on for me: breakfast food is whatever you happen to eat for breakfast, not necessarily cold or hot cereal or bacon and eggs.  You know how leftover pizza straight from the refrigerator is a guilty breakfast for a lot of people in the States?  A slice is really a perfectly adequate breakfast.  Lots of Mexican breakfasts are just like that: whatever food is available at the moment.

    Susana's Corunda, Pátzcuaro
    The corunda is a regional tamal from Michoacán.  This corunda, filled with cream cheese and topped with Mexican table cream and a sauce made of chile perón (a deliciously spicy yellow chile), makes a great desayuno when accompanied by a cup of hot atole made with a seasonal fresh fruit.

    People in Mexico frequently eat two morning meals. The first is desayuno, which comes from the root word ayunar, to fast.  Desayuno literally means "I un-fast" and is ordinarily eaten first thing in the morning, maybe before work while you are standing in the pre-dawn kitchen thinking about the coming day on the job or gobbled while you are hurrying the kids into their school uniforms.  This breakfast consists of something quick and simple or a smear of yesterday's frijolitos refritos on a leftover tortilla, washed down with a glass of fresh orange juice; a pan dulce still hot from the corner bakery, accompanied by a glass of chocomil (Mexico's ubiquitous instant chocolate milk powder).  It's just enough to help your brain kick into gear.

    Calabaza Lista Pa'Comer
    This Mexico Cooks! desayuno includes home-made calabaza en tacha bathed in hot milk plus a slice of pan relleno con chilacayote (bread filled with sweetened chilacayote squash paste), served with fresh juice or coffee.

    Molletes
    At home, Mexico Cooks! occasionally prepares molletes, an old-time family favorite.  I grill a bolillo (a dense-textured and crusty white bread roll), add a thick smear of chile-spiced refried beans, and top them with huevos volteados (over-easy fried eggs).  Add salsa al gusto–to your taste.  With a fresh fruit accompaniment, this almuerzo is really stick-to-your-ribs.

    Around 10:30 or eleven o'clock in the morning, when the stomach starts to require something more substantial to keep the body going, many people take a break for almuerzo.  There really is no adequate word in English for this meal.  It's not breakfast and it's not a snack.  Almuerzo is typically a larger meal than desayuno.  Workers on a construction job, for example, often stop work, build a little fire, and heat up yesterday's leftovers that they've brought along in a 'tuper'–the generic word for a covered plastic container.  Warmed-up leftovers, a stack of tortillas, and a fresh-made pot of coffee keep the girders going up. 

    El Portalito Enchiladas Verdes Abiertas
    Another really hearty almuerzo: a plateful of enchiladas verdes con pollo deshebrado (enchiladas with shredded chicken in green sauce) topped with finely grated white cheese and minced onion, accompanied by a guarnición (side) of refried beans.

    Pátzcuaro Breakfast
    Here's another typical almuerzo in Mexico: chilaquiles verdes (fried tortilla strips simmered in green sauce), topped with grated white cheese and thinly sliced white onions, then crowned with huevos a gusto (eggs however you like them).  Add a side of frijolitos refritos, a plate of ripe papaya, a warm-from-the-oven bolillo, either salsa or butter for the bread, and a great cappuchino, all served on a sunny terrace.  Heaven…

    Next week, next meal!  We'll save your place at the table. 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Super-Delicious Soupy Meatballs :: Albóndigas de Jalisco, Diana Kennedy’s Way

    Albóndigas Ingredientes
    These and just a few other ingredients for albóndigas de Jalisco (Jalisco-style meatballs) combine to become a simple but delicious meal.

    It's been downright chilly both day and night here in Mexico City for the couple of months since the end of November.  Winter, with lows around 30ºF don't sound too bad compared to what winter is like in northern climes, but at our altitude of nearly 8000 feet above sea level and with no central heating, it's time to think about staying warm.  In Mexico Cooks!' household, cool days always mean something warming and delicious for our comida (midday meal).  Subtly-flavored albóndigas–especially as prepared from this recipe, adapted from Diana Kennedy's book The Cuisines of Mexico–are the perfect comfort food.

    Albóndigas Ingredientes en Licuadora
    You only need to blend eggs and a few herbs and spices to give a most wonderful Mexican touch to the meat mixture for these albóndigas (meatballs).

    This is a dandy recipe for cooks of any level: if you're a beginner, you'll love the simplicity and authenticity of the flavors of the end product.  If you're a more advanced cook, the people at your table will believe that you worked for hours to prepare this traditional Mexican meal. 

    All the ingredients you need are undoubtedly easy for you to get even if you live outside Mexico.  Here's the list, both for the meatballs and their sauce:

    Ingredients
    Albóndigas

    1.5 Tbsp long-grain white rice
    Boiling water to cover
    3/4 lb ground pork
    3/4 lb ground beef
    2 eggs
    1/4 scant teaspoon dried oregano
    4 good-sized sprigs fresh mint (preferably) OR 1 tsp dried mint
    1 chile serrano, roughly chopped
    3/4 tsp salt
    1/4 scant teaspoon cumin seeds OR ground cumin
    1/3 medium white onion, roughly chopped

    Albóndigas Carne con Líquido
    Add the liquified eggs, onions, chile, herbs, and spices to the ground meats and mix well with your hands.

    Sauce
    3 medium tomatoes (about 1 lb)
    1 chile serrano, roughly chopped (optional if you do not care for a mildly spicy sauce)
    Boiling water to cover
    3 Tbsp lard, vegetable oil, peanut oil, or safflower oil (I prefer lard, for its flavor)
    1 medium white onion, roughly chopped
    8 cups rich meat or chicken broth, homemade if possible
    Salt to taste

    For serving
    2 or 3 carrots, cut into cubes or sticks
    2 good-size white potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes or sticks

    Utensils
    A small bowl
    A large bowl
    A blender
    A saucepan
    A fork
    A large flameproof pot with cover

    Preparing the meatballs
    Put the rice in a small bowl and cover with boiling water.  Allow to soak for about 45 minutes.  I use the glass custard cup that you see lying on its side in the initial photo–it's just the right size.

    While the rice is soaking, put both kinds of meat into the large bowl.  

    Put the eggs, onion, and all herbs and spices–in that order–in the blender jar.  Blend until all is liquified.  Add to the meat mixture and, using your hands, mix well until the liquid is thoroughly incorporated.

    Rinse out the blender jar for its next use in this recipe.

    Drain the rice and add it to the meat mixture.  Form 24 meatballs, about 1.5" in diameter, and set aside.

    Preparing the sauce

    Albóndigas Jitomate Cocinándose
    Bring about 2 cups of water to a full rolling boil.  Add the whole tomatoes and allow to cook for about five minutes, until the skins split.  Watch the pot, though: this procedure might take a bit less or a bit more time. 

    Albóndigas Pelando Jitomate
    When the tomato skins split, take the tomatoes one by one out of the water and peel them.  If you've never tried it, believe me: this is miraculously easy–the skins are not too hot to handle and they slip off the tomatoes like little gloves.  You can see that I have stuck a fork into the stem end of the tomato for ease of handling.

    Skin the tomatoes and put them in the blender jar.  Add the roughly-chopped onion and chile serrano.  Blend until thoroughly puréed.

    Albóndigas Manteca
    Freshly rendered manteca (lard) for frying the sauce.  If all you can get in your store is a hard brick of stark white, hydrogenated lard, don't bother.  It has no flavor and absolutely no redeeming value.  If you want to use lard, ask a butcher at a Latin market if he sells freshly rendered lard.  If none is available, use the oil of your choice.

    In the flameproof cooking pot, heat the lard or oil and add the tomato purée.  Bring it to a boil and let it cook fast for about three minutes.  Splatter alert here!

    Turn down the flame and add the broth to the tomato sauce.  Bring it to a simmer.  Add the meatballs, cover the pot, and let them simmer in the liquid for about an hour.

    Albóndigas Zanahoria
    After the first hour of cooking, add the carrots and the potatoes to the tomato broth and meatballs.  Cover and cook for an additional half hour.  When I made the albóndigas this time, I cubed the vegetables.  I think the finished dish is more attractive with the vegetables cut into sticks.

    Albóndigas Cocinándose
    The rich fragrance of the cooking albóndigas and their broth penetrates every corner of our home.  By the time they're ready to eat, we are more than eager!

    Albo?ndigas Caseras Febrero 2017 1
    Albóndigas de Jalisco served with steamed white rice (you might also like to try them with Mexican red rice), sliced avocado, and fresh, hot tortillas.  This flat soup plate filled with albóndigas and vegetables needs another ladle full of sauce; we prefer to eat these meatballs when they're very soupy.  A serving of rice topped with three meatballs plus vegetables and sauce is plenty. 

    Albóndigas freeze really well, so I often double the recipe; I use a flat styrofoam meat tray from the supermarket to freeze the uncooked meatballs individually, then prepare the sauce, thaw the meatballs, and cook them as described.

    The single recipe serves eight.

    Provecho!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Warm Yourself from the Inside Out: Caldo de Pollo, Mexico’s Delicious Chicken Soup

    First published about six years ago, this is by far the most popular of Mexico Cooks!' nearly 600 archived articles.  There's just something wonderful about comfort food, no matter what culture prepares it!

    Seasoning Ingredients Caldo
    Seasoning ingredients for preparing the caldo (broth) for Mexican caldo de pollo (chicken soup).  Clockwise from top right in the photo: unpeeled carrots, white onions, chiles serrano, garlic, fresh bay leaves, cilantro, and thyme.  I also added a big sprig of fresh hierbabuena (mint) and a smaller sprig of fresh epazote (wormseed).  If you can't find fresh epazote, leave it out.  The dried variety adds no flavor to any of your recipes.

    There are few meals more undeniably Mexican than delicious, home-made caldo de pollo (Mexico's marvelous chicken soup, with fresh vegetables).  During the winter, when the temperature is chilly even in Mexico, what better to warm us from the inside out than Mexico's traditional, rich, delicious caldo de pollo (chicken soup)?  You who live in even colder countries will love it as much as we do.  Nothing could be simpler to prepare.  The ingredients are easy to obtain, the broth all but cooks itself, and the final preparations are simple and fast.

    Pollo Listo para Caldo
    This beautiful chicken weighed approximately 5.5 pounds before cooking.

    Mexico's chickens are perfectly suited to caldo de pollo.  Yellow skin and pink flesh create a fragrantly savory stock.  If you've traveled to Mexico and visited our markets, you may have wondered why our recently sacrificed raw chickens look so…so chicken-y, so golden and inviting.  They're fed ground marigold petals along with their feed!  The bright golden color of the flowers is transmitted not only to their skin and flesh, but also to the yolks of their eggs, which sit up high and sunny in your breakfast skillet.  Several years ago, a shall-remain-nameless neighboring country to the north imported some of its frozen chicken to our supermarkets: grey, pitiful whole chickens and lumps of breast and leg meat lay in freezer compartments waiting to be purchased.  Mexican housewives, used to fresh, plump chicken, looked at these icy products and recoiled.  Few of these ugly corpses sold and I currently notice that no imported frozen chicken is available in any of the supermarkets I visit from time to time.

    Mexico Cooks!
    prefers to remove as much fat as possible from the chicken before cooking, leaving only a little to give body and flavor to the broth.  The skin stays on, both for color and flavor.

    Pollo en la Olla
    In the pot: the chicken back and legs, along with the seasoning ingredients and water, ready to cook.

    Caldo de Pollo (Mexican Chicken Soup)

    For the broth
    1 whole chicken, approximately 5-6 pounds
    1 1/2 white onions, peeled
    2 large cloves garlic, peeled
    2 large carrots, peeled and cut in half
    2 chiles serrano, sliced from tip to stem end
    2 bay leaves
    6 stems cilantro
    Large sprig fresh hierbabuena (mint)
    Small sprig fresh epazote (wormseed), optional.  If you can't get it fresh, leave it out.
    Large pinch of thyme
    Sea salt to taste
    Water to cover all broth ingredients
    14-quart stock pot

    Mercado Patas de Pollo 1
    If you can buy chicken feet where you are, put several in the cooking pot to give color and depth of flavor to the broth.  You'll thank me, honest you will.

    Procedure
    Remove as much fat as possible from the raw chicken.  Remove the bag of menudencias (heart, gizzard, liver, etc).  Mexico Cooks! prefers to separate the entire breast and wings from the back and legs, using the back and legs for preparing the broth and reserving the breast and wings for later use.

    Put the skin-on chicken back, legs and all seasoning ingredients except the salt into the stock pot.  Add cold water to cover the ingredients.  Bring to a boil, lower to simmer.  Skim the broth once with a wire skimmer.  Simmer, partially covered, for approximately 1.5 hours.  Cool slightly and add sea salt to taste.  Remove all vegetables, herbs, and the chicken back and legs from the pot.  Chill the broth overnight and peel off any congealed fat.

    Because I prefer to eat breast meat, I often shred the cooked leg and back meat to be used in other recipes.  However, when I made this batch of caldo de pollo, I took large chunks of the dark meat and added them to the broth.

    Ingredients for Eating
    Ingredients for the final preparation of the caldo de pollo, to cook in the broth just before serving.  Clockwise from top right: calabacitas (tender zucchini, about 3" long), peeled carrots, chicken breast, fresh green beans.  Potatoes, ready to be peeled, are in the foreground.

    To finish the caldo de pollo:

    Ingredients
    1/2 pound fresh green beans, broken in thirds
    4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1" lengths
    4 to 6 calabacitas (tiny zucchini will do), cut into 2" lengths
    2 or 3 large potatoes, cut into 16 pieces
    1 chayote, peeled and cut into 16 pieces–use the tender, white seed, too, it's delicious (optional)
    1 large ear of fresh corn, husked and cut into sections (across the ears) approximately 2" wide
    2 or 3 half chicken breasts, cut into three pieces each
    2 or 3 chicken wings, pointed end sections removed

    About an hour before mealtime, remove the chicken backs, legs (and the feet, if you used them) from the pot and bring the broth to a simmer.  Add all of the above ingredients to the broth.  Simmer for half an hour, or until the chicken and vegetables are done.

    During the half hour that the vegetables and chicken are cooking in the caldo de pollo, prepare a pot of traditional Mexican rice.  In a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil, sauté the amount of rice you want (I usually use 1 or 2 cups of raw rice) until  the rice is uniformly golden brown.  Add 2 cups of tomato water for every cup of rice, bring to a boil, cover the pot and lower the heat to simmer until the rice is fluffy, about 20 minutes.

    Tomato Water for Rice
    3 raw Roma tomatoes, skinned
    1/3 white onion, roughly chopped
    1 small clove garlic, peeled
    1 small chile serrano, stem removed but using the seeds, if you want a slightly spicy rice  (optional)
    2.5 cups cold water
    Sea salt to taste

    Add all ingredients to your blender and whiz until smooth.  Strain through a fine colander and use the liquid for cooking rice.

    Albo?ndigas Pelando Jitomate
    Tip for Skinning Raw Tomatoes
    Bring a small pot filled with water to a boil.  While the water comes to a boil, wash the tomatoes, then cut a 1/8" cross-mark in the stem end of each one.  Put the tomatoes into the boiling water and boil for a minute–literally a minute, until the tomato skin begins to split.  Set the timer or watch the pot to see when the tomatoes begin to split their skins.  Then use a fork, tines stuck into the stem end of the tomatoes, to lift them out of the water and hold each one while you peel it.  The tomatoes will be easy to peel.

    To Prepare Mexican Red Rice
    1.5 cups raw rice–use your preferred variety of long-grain raw rice (not pre-cooked): not Uncle Ben's, not instant rice, or other rice of that type).
    2 Tbsp vegetable oil
    3 cups tomato water
    1 tsp salt or to taste
    Heavy, lidded pot, wider than it is deep

    Put the oil in the pot and over a medium flame, heat the oil until it shimmers.  Add the rice and let it fry, stirring often, until the rice is light golden brown.  Add all of the tomato water and the salt.  Bring the pot to a boil, cover leaving the cover slightly ajar, and lower the flame to its lowest point.  Allow the rice to simmer for approximately 20 minutes (use a timer!) or until all the tomato water is absorbed and the rice grains are tender.

    Caldo de Pollo 5 Oct 2018 1
    The finished product, steaming and delicious any time of year.  

    At meal time, have the following on the table for garnish and further seasoning: a large bunch of fresh cilantro, stems in a glass of water; a plate of halved limones or limes, a dish of sea salt; and a cooked (not raw) or bottled table salsa of your choice.  Plenty of hot-from-the-griddle corn tortillas round out your meal.

    Salsa Purhépecha Chile Perón
    Mexico Cooks! favorite bottled salsa: Cosecha Purhépecha Salsa Casera de Chile Perón (Home-style sauce made of chile manzano, known as chile perón in Michoacán).  It's made in Chilchota, Michoacán, and I normally keep a big stash of it in my Mexico City pantry.

    To serve your caldo de pollo, add a large spoonful or two of steaming hot rice to each diner's bowl.  Next, add chicken and a good amount of each of the vegetables.  Fill each bowl with hot, fragrant broth.  Every diner can then add a pinch of sea salt, some cilantro leaves, a squeeze or two of jugo de limón, and salsa to his or her own taste.

    Makes four to six servings with a lot of rich broth left over for other uses.  I strain the broth and then freeze it in gallon ziplock freezer bags.

    Provecho!

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  • What’ll You Have? Mexico’s Most Popular Drink :: The Michelada

    Michelada 1
    A perfect michelada, rimmed with Tajín and topped with crunchy fresh cucumber.  Spicy, salty, beery, umami-rich, and completely refreshing.  

    Here in Mexico–everywhere in Mexico!–the single most popular beer drink is the michelada. Its ingredients, always based on beer, depend on the bartender, the part of the country one is in, or on one's personal taste.  A michelada is an any-time, any-season drink.

    We see fútbol (soccer) stadiums full of people slugging down liters of stadium-prepared micheladas, parties at home where no other alcoholic beverage is served, and restaurant tables full of people slurping them down along with their barbacoa, carne asada, or pozole–or accompanying a hamburger and fries, or a salad.  The michelada goes with just about any sort of food.  Popular wisdom also knows it as a super hangover cure, so hey–beer for breakfast in your hour of need?  Why not, just this once?

    Michelada Corona
    The primary ingredient of any michelada is beer.  Most people prefer a light-colored lager, but once in a while someone will order a michelada made with dark beer. Corona is just one option; any light-colored lager will do. First and foremost is to use the lager you prefer: Corona, Pacifico, Modelo, or any other. And your beer doesn't even have to be made in Mexico; use whatever country's beer you like best. Photo courtesy Corona.

    The seasonings in a michelada typically include either Clamato, V8, or plain tomato juice, plus Worcestershire sauce, a very hot bottled salsa like Valentina, Cholula, Yucateca, or any of dozens on the grocer's shelf, salt—lots of salt—powdered chile, the umami-heavy seasoning liquid called Maggi, and freshly-squeezed jugo de limón (the juice of a key lime). 

    Michelada Tajin
    Rim a frosted pint mug or glass with powdered Tajín (a commercial mix of powdered dry chile, limón flavoring, and salt).  You can find Tajín in almost any supermarket. There are imitators, but if you can find Tajín, it's the best.  Photo courtesy Tajín.

    Now add the rest of the ingredients.  Here's a recipe to get you started; experiment with micheladas till the flavor blend is exactly the way you like it.

    Micheladas a la mexicana

    • light-colored lager beer of your choice
    • Clamato or V8 or tomato juice
    • 3 or 4 splashes hot sauce, more or less to taste.  Try Valentina, or Cholula, or use your favorite.
    • 2 splashes of Worcestershire sauce
    • 2 splashes of Maggi sauce 
    • Juice of one lime

      Fill the glass about ¼ to ? with the Clamato juice. Add the hot sauce, the lime juice, the Worcestershire sauce, and the soy sauce. If you used Tajín to salt the rim, pour any excess from the plate into the glass.  Fill the rest with cold beer and top off your micheladas with sticks of celery or jícama, skewers of shrimp or olives, half-moons of cucumber, freshly-cooked octopus–really, anything within the limits of your imagination.  And for good measure, add another splash of Maggi. 

    Michelada clamato
    Clamato contains water, tomato concentrate, high fructose corn syrup, MSG, salt, citric acid, onion powder, celery seed, garlic powder, dried clam broth, unspecified spices, vinegar, natural flavors, food coloring, and ascorbic acid to maintain color.  Photo courtesy Clamato.

    Michelada V8

    V8 juice contains a blend of reconstituted vegetable juices including tomatoes, carrots, celery, beets, parsley, lettuce, watercress, and spinach, plus a tiny percentage of salt, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and natural flavoring. Photo courtesy V8.

    Michelada Campbells Tomato Juice
    Campbell's tomato juice contains tomato juice from concentrate, potassium chloride, ascorbic acid, citric acid, salt, malic acid, and other flavorings.  Photo courtesy Campbell's.

    Michelada Worcestershire Sauce
    In the United States, the ingredients in Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce are: distilled white vinegar, molasses, sugar, water, salt, onions, anchovies, garlic, cloves, tamarind extract, natural flavorings, and chili pepper extract.  Anchovies–did you know that?  Photo courtesy Lee & Perrins.

    Michelada Valentina--4-Lt
    Valentina is arguably Mexico's best-known bottled salsa. The photo shows the four liter bottle–nearly a gallon! That size should keep you in micheladas for quite a while. If you'd prefer a smaller bottle, you can buy Valentina, either hot or extra-hot, in a 12.5 ounce size.  The ingredients are water, chile peppers, vinegar, salt, spices and sodium benzoate (as a preservative). The taste can be described as a citrus flavor, with a nicely spicy aftertaste. Photo courtesy Valentina.

    Michelada Maggi
    If you're not already using Maggi for cooking, look for it until you find it for your micheladas.  Of Swiss origin, Maggi is ubiquitous, literally a global phenomenon, used all over the world to add an extra touch of taste to savory recipes.  It's indispensable in a michelada, bringing the utmost in umami to the drink.  Your micheladas will be pale in flavor without it.  Ingredients vary by country; if you have an MSG sensitivity, be sure to look for it in the ingredients list.  Some countries' Maggi have it, some don't.  Photo courtesy Maggi.

    Limo?n criollo
    Finally, the taste of freshly squeezed jugo de limón (juice from the key lime) will brighten up your michelada in a way that regular lime juice won't.  You'll find limones in many supermarkets and Latin specialty markets.  The juice of one limón per liter of michelada is the ratio you want.  Mexico Cooks! photo. 

    The name michelada is said to be made of three words: 'mi' (my) 'chela' (a popular nickname for any beer) and 'helada' (icy cold). How many micheladas are consumed in Mexico every year?  Untold millions!  Do your part to keep the numbers up!

    Salud!  (To your health!)

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  • Delicious Winter Squash, Mexican Style, for Your Thanksgiving Table :: Calabaza en Tacha

    Calabaza de Castilla Whole
    Looking for something different to serve for Thanksgiving?  How about calabaza en tacha–winter squash cooked in a deliciously sweet syrup?  As a side dish instead of sweet potatoes–or in addition to sweet potatoes!–this Mexican-style squash is sure to be a hit with your family and guests.

    Mari, the woman who at one time spoiled Mexico Cooks! by doing all of my housework, gave me a squash.  She brought two home from her rancho (the family farm) out in the country, one for her and one for me.  The 8" diameter squash wasn't very big, as winter squash go, but it was plenty for me.  Mari's first question, after I had happily accepted her gift, was whether or not I knew how to cook it.  "Con piloncillo y canela, sí?" (With cones of brown sugar and cinnamon, right?) 

    Even though I knew how to spice the squash and knew how to cut it apart, knowing and doing these things turned out to be worlds apart.  Faced with the project, I waffled and hesitated, intimidated by a large vegetable.  The squash sat on the counter for several days, daring me to cook it before it molded.  Then one of the cats toppled it over and rolled it around the counter, so I moved the squash outside onto the terrace table and gathered my nerve. 

    On Sunday, I finally decided it was Cook the Squash day. Mari was due to arrive early on Monday morning and it had to be done before she scolded me for letting it sit for so long.  I chose pots, knives, and gathered the rest of the simple ingredients for a mise en place.

    Calabaza Partida
    The squash with the first section cut out.

    Cutting the squash in sections was the only difficult part of preparing it.  The shell of the squash is hard.  Hard.  HARD.  I was careful to keep the knife pointed toward the wall, not toward my body.  With the force I needed to cut the squash open, one slip of the knife could have meant instant and deep penetration of my innards.  Later that night, my friend Araceli told us that her mother usually breaks a squash apart by throwing it from her home's second floor balcony onto the concrete patio!  The next morning, Mari told us that her husband had cut their squash apart with a machete.  I felt really tough, knowing that I'd been able to cut it open with just a big knife and a few pointed words.  (That's shorthand for 'the air turned blue above my counter').

    Calabaza en Trozos
    The squash, cut into sections and ready for the pot.  On the counter behind the squash is a 1930's Mexican covered cazuela (casserole), the top in the form of a turkey.

    Once I had the (few pointed words) squash cut open, I scooped out the seeds and goop and cut it into sections more or less 4" long by 3" wide.  I did not remove the hard shell, nor should you.

    Piloncillo Cones 2 Sizes 1
    Piloncillo cones in two sizes.  The large one weighs 210 grams; the small one weighs 35 grams.  I use the small ones in the recipe below.

    Meantime, I had prepared the ingredients for the almíbar (thick syrup) that the squash would cook in.  Mexican stick cinnamon, granulated sugar, and piloncillo (cones of brown sugar) went into a pot of water.  I added a big pinch of salt, tied anise seed and cloves into a square of cheesecloth and tossed the little bundle into the water.  The pot needed to simmer for at least three hours, until the syrup was thick and well-flavored.

    Calabaza Especias
    Clockwise from left: Mexican stick cinnamon, anise seed, piloncillo, and cloves.

    Calabaza en Almíbar
    Several hours later (after the syrup thickened well), I added the pieces of squash to the pot.  Cooking time for this very hard squash was approximately an hour and a half over a low-medium flame. 

    As the squash cooks in the syrup, it softens and takes on a very appetizing dark brown color.  Calabaza en tacha is one of the most typically homey Mexican dishes for desayuno (breakfast) or cena (supper).  Well heated and served in a bowl with hot milk and a little of its own syrup, the squash is both nutritious and filling.

    Calabaza Lista Pa'Comer
    Squash for breakfast!  On Monday morning, Mexico Cooks! served up a bowl of squash with hot milk, along with a slice of pan relleno con chilacayote (bread filled with sweetened chilacayote squash paste).  Mari thought my squash was almost–almost–as good as hers.

    Calabaza en Tacha estilo Mexico Cooks!

    Ingredients
    One medium-size hard shell winter squash (about 8" high)
    6 cups water
    14 small cones of dark piloncillo (coarse brown sugar)
    2 cups granulated sugar
    4 Mexican cinnamon sticks about 2.5" long
    1 Tbsp anise seed
    1 tsp cloves

    Preparation
    Heat the water in a large pot.  Add the piloncillo, the granulated sugar, and the cinnamon sticks.  Tie the anise seed and the cloves into a cheesecloth square and add it to the pot.  Cook over a slow flame until the liquid is thick and syrupy, approximately three hours.

    While the syrup is cooking, prepare the squash.  Cut it into serving-size pieces as described above.  If the squash shell is very hard, take adequate precautions so that you do not hurt yourself as you cut it in sections.  You can always throw it from your second-floor window onto the patio!

    Add the squash pieces to the thickened syrup and simmer until the squash is soft and takes on a deep brown color.  Cool for 15 minutes or so before serving.  Re-heat for desayuno (breakfast) or cena (supper).  Serve with hot milk poured over it.

    Makes about 16 servings.

    ¡Provecho!

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  • Chiles en Nogada, El Rey de los Chiles :: Chiles in Walnut Sauce, The King of Chiles

    Chile en Nogada Fonda Fina Aug 21 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada (chile poblano stuffed with a seasonal filling and topped with fresh walnut sauce, chopped parsley, walnut meats, and pomegranates), as served by chef Juan Cabrera Barron at Fonda Fina, Mexico City, August 21, 2017.

    Freshly Cut Walnuts Chile en Nogada
    Freshly cut nuez de castilla (walnuts), an essential for seasonal chiles en nogada.  Photo courtesy El Sol de Puebla.

    Mexico celebrates its independence the entire month of September with parades, parties, and traditional food and drink, served in restaurants and at home.  The traditional festive dish during the weeks just before and after the Independence Day holiday is chiles en nogada, a magnificent tribute to the seasonal availability of a certain kind of peach, the locally grown panochera apple, in-season granadas (pomegranates) and nuez de castilla (freshly harvested walnuts). From mid-July until early October, seasonal local fruits, fresh pomegranates, and newly harvested walnuts make chiles en nogada possible.  Mildly spicy chiles poblano, stuffed with picadillo and topped with richly creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, flaunt the brilliant green, white and red of the Mexican flag. 

    Manzana panochera y pera lechera
    The panochera apple, grown in the Mexican state of Puebla, and pera lechera (milky pear), also grown in the area, are two must-have ingredients for making chiles en nogada in Mexico.  If you live outside Mexico, a small crisp apple and a very crisp pear (Bosque or d'Anjou) would substitute.

    This festive dish is traditionally served on September 15 or 16 in honor of Mexico's Independence Day, though it is popular anytime in the late summer and fall. During August and September in the highlands of Mexico, particularly in Mexico City and Puebla, vendors wander tianguis (street markets) and other markets, selling the clean, white meats of nuez de castilla. It is important to use the freshest walnuts possible, as they produce such a creamy, rich sauce that it is worth the effort to buy them peeled or peel them oneself.  Yes, the recipe is time-consuming…but you and your guests will jump up and shout "VIVA!" when they've licked the platters clean. 

    Ingredients

    For the meat:  

    • 2 pounds beef brisket or other stew meat or 1 pound beef and 1 pound pork butt 
    • 1 small white onion, quartered 
    • 2 large cloves garlic 
    • about 1 Tbsp sea salt

     For the picadillo (filling):  

    • 4 Tbsp safflower or canola oil
    • the shredded meat
    • 1/3 cup chopped white onion
    • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
    • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • 1/8 tsp ground cloves
    • 3 heaping Tbsp raisins
    • 1 or 2 chiles serrano, finely minced
    • 4 Tbsp chopped fresh walnuts 
    • 4 Tbsp slivered blanched almonds
    • 2 Tbsp finely diced biznaga (candied cactus, optional)
    • 1 fresh pear, peeled and chopped
    • 1 apple, peeled and chopped
    • 4 ripe peaches, peeled and diced
    • 3 Tbsp Mexican pink pine nuts.  Substitute white if you aren't able to find pink.
    • 3 large, ripe tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
    • sea salt to taste

    Flaneur Chiles Poblanos Rojos Tehuaca?n 2016
    Fully mature chiles poblano, picked fresh in Tehuacán, Puebla.  Green chile poblano is normally used for chiles en nogada.

    For the chiles:

    –6 fresh chiles poblanos, roasted, peeled, slit open, and seeded, leaving the stem intact   

     For the nogada (walnut sauce):  

    • 1 cup fresh walnuts 
    • 6 ounces queso de cabra (goat cheese), queso doble crema or standard cream cheese (not fat free) at room temperature 
    • 1-1/2 cups crema mexicana or 1-1/4 cups sour cream thinned with milk 
    • about 1/2 tsp sea salt or to taste
    • 1 Tbsp sugar   
    • 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 cup dry sherry (optional)

    Pomegranate
    Remove the arils (seeds) from a pomegranate.  We who live in Mexico are fortunate to find pomegranate seeds ready to use, sold in plastic cups.

    For the garnish 

    –1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
    –1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds 

    Preparation:

    Cut the meat into large chunks, removing any excess fat. Place the meat into a large Dutch oven with the onion, garlic, and salt. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that collects on the surface. Lower the heat and allow the water to simmer about 45 minutes, until the meat is just tender. Take the pot off the stove and let the meat cool in the broth. Remove the pieces of meat and finely shred them. 

    Biznaga cristalizada
    Candied biznaga cactus.  Do try to find this ingredient in your local market.  There isn't an adequate substitute, so if you don't find it, leave it out.

    Warm the oil in a large, heavy skillet and sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat until they turn a pale gold. Stir in the shredded meat and cook for five minutes. Add the cinnamon, pepper, and cloves, then, stir in the raisins, the two tablespoons of chopped walnuts. Add the chopped pear, apple, biznaga, and mix well. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste, and continue cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture has evaporated. Stir often so that the mixture doesn't stick. Let cool, cover, and set aside. The picadillo may be made a day or two in advance.

    Chiles en Nogada
    Beautifully home-prepared chiles en nogada, as presented several years ago at a traditional food exhibition in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.

    Make a slit down the side of each chile, just long enough to remove the seeds and veins. Keep the stem end intact. Drain the chiles, cut side down, on paper towels until completely dry. Cover and set aside. The chiles may be prepared a day in advance. 

    At least three hours in advance, put the walnuts in a small pan of boiling water. Remove from the heat and let them sit for five minutes. Drain the nuts and, when cool, rub off as much of the dark skin as possible. into small pieces. Place the nuts, cream cheese, crema, and salt in a blender and purée thoroughly. Stir in the optional sugar, cinnamon, and sherry until thoroughly combined. Chill for several hours. 

    Preheat the oven to 250ºF. When ready to serve, reheat the meat filling and stuff the chiles until they are plump and just barely closed. Put the filled chiles, covered, to warm slightly in the oven. After they are thoroughly heated, place the chiles (cut side down) on a serving platter or on individual plates, cover with the chilled walnut sauce, and sprinkle with the chopped parsley and pomegranate seeds. 

    Azul Histo?rico Chile en Nogada
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Azul Histórico, Mexico City.

    Chile en Nogada PdeH Aug 13 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Pasillo de Humo, Mexico City.

    This dish may be served at room temperature, or it may be served chilled. It is rarely if ever served hot. 

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  • Ruta de Aromas y Sabores :: Touring Michoacán with Patricia Quintana

    Distilería 11 Baril
    A decorative charanda barrel at the entrance to Distilería El Tarasco in Uruapan.  Charanda, distilled from sugar cane and bottled as both blanco (newly distilled) or reposado (aged), is a regional alcohol specialty of Michoacán.

    Eighty hardy souls, chefs, journalists, travel specialists and food writers all, recently toured Mexico's Central Highlands on a two-week fact-finding and eating binge that brought us together from Europe, South and Central America, the United States, and other points around the globe.  Aromas y Sabores de México, Ruta del Bicentenario 2010, organized by Mexico's national tourism department and led by the marvelous chef Patricia Quintana, kicked off in Mexico City on May 29 and ended its culinary wanderings in Michoacán on June 10.  Naturally Mexico Cooks! thinks they saved the best for last!

    Distilería 9 Betty Fussell
    Eleven o'clock on a hot spring morning and my friend Betty Fussell was sucking down a charanda piña colada AND a torito at the distillery! It was Betty's first full-blown taste of Michoacán and we had a marvelous time together. 

    The two-bus, multi-van caravan wound its way from Mexico City to the State of Mexico, then to Querétaro, to Guanajuato and, for the last four days, to Michoacán.  Tour participants, accompanied by Chef Patricia Quintana of Mexico City's hot-ticket Restaurante Izote, slept when they could, partied when sleep eluded them, visited countless historic sites gussied up for Mexico's 2010 bicentennial celebrations, and ate till they could eat no more. 

    Distilería 2
    John Rivera Sedlar, of Rivera Restaurant in Los Angeles, California, enjoys a super-refreshing torito (made with charanda, of course) and a visit with Mexico Cooks!  Photo courtesy Cynthia Martínez, Restaurante San Miguelito, Morelia.

    Drink Dispenser 1
    The kind of drink dispenser that Mexico Cooks! uses for toritos for a party.

    If you'd like to make toritos for a party, they're really easy to prepare and are always a huge success.  If you can't find charanda in your hometown liquor store, substitute an inexpensive white rum.

    TORITOS (Little Bulls)
    Makes approximately 25 5-ounce servings

    1 liter charanda or white rum
    2 liters pineapple juice
    2 liters grapefruit soft drink
    Salt to taste
    Ice

    Crushed chile de árbol or other spicy chile
    Crushed salted peanuts

    Mix all of the liquids together and add salt to taste.  Pour into a large pitcher and chill thoroughly.  If your drink dispenser has a center cylinder for ice, you can fill it and keep the toritos cold without diluting them.

    At the time of serving, place a pinch of crushed chile and a teaspoonful of salted peanuts in each person's glass.  Fill each glass with the rum mixture and serve.

    This recipe is easily cut in half, if you're expecting fewer guests, or doubled (or tripled) if you're expecting a crowd.

    Salud! (To your health!)

    La Huatápera  Magda
    On a hot spring day in Uruapan, Michoacán, Magda Choque Vilca, field coordinator of Argentina's Proyecto Cultivos Andinos, delights in a cooling paleta de aguacate (avocado ice pop).

    La Huatápera Mousse de Aguacate y Macadamia
    Two of Michoacán's best known products are the avocado (the state is the world's largest avocado grower) and the macadamia nut.  This chilly and refreshing mousse, unique to Restaurante Tony's–(Morelos #183, Col. Morelos, Uruapan)–combines both delicacies.  The creamy white macadamia bottom layer supports the pale green avocado top layer.  It was absolutely delicious.

    La Huatápera Metate
    A metate y metapil (three-legged flat grinding stone, made of volcanic rock, and its 'rolling pin') on display at the regional museum at Uruapan's La Huatápera.  La Huatápera originated in the 16th Century.  Nearly five hundred years ago, Bishop Vasco de Quiroga created the building as a hospitality center for the Purépecha people. Many Mexican kitchens still depend on the metate for grinding corn, beans, chocolate, herbs, and a hundred other ingredients.

    La Huatápera Caritas de Aguacate
    For the Ruta de Aromas y Sabores tour, La Huatápera once again became a hospitality center.  Tables along the portales (covered terraces) around the building held tastes of regional treats: ceviche de trucha, guacamole, paletas, and much more.  Brought by Restaurante Tony's, the avocados in the photo above were halved horizontally, the meat partially removed and then mashed with cream cheese, spices, and stuffed back into the avocado shell and decorated with these charming faces.  The parsley eyebrows especially tickled me.

    Mirasoles Patio
    Restaurante Los Mirasoles in Morelia hosted the welcome dinner for the Michoacán portion of the Ruta de Aromas y Sabores tour.  Executive chef Rubí Silva Figueroa pulled out all the stops to make the meal a high-end version of Michoacán's regional foods.  Seated at a table with food professionals and journalists from Europe, South America, and the United States, Mexico Cooks! explained the food.  It was, as one friend said, a comida didáctica–a teaching meal!  Photo courtesy of Los Mirasoles.

    Paracho Tejedores Aranza
    Paracho, Michoacán, is known as Mexico's guitar central, but it is also famous for weaving, embroidery, and other artisan work.  Michoacán's Secretaría de Turismo (state tourism department) had arranged for a small tianguis artesanal (artisans' street market) for our tour.  Among the items on display and for sale were rebozos (long rectangular shawls) woven by the famous reboceros de Aranza (rebozo-makers of Aranza).  Finely loomed and beautifully patterned and colored, each of these dressy cotton rebozos take anywhere from two weeks to a month to complete.

    Distilería 1
    We had a marvelous time on the tour!  Left to right: Lic. Elizabeth Vargas Martín del Campo, director of the Politécnico de Guanajuato; Chef Patricia Quintana, innovative executive chef, caterer, and restaurant owner, Mexico City; Sacha Ormaechea, Restaurante Sacha, Madrid, Spain;  Olivia González de Alegría, Director General, Instituto Gastronómico de Estudios Superiores, Querétaro; Cynthia Martínez, owner, Restaurante San Miguelito, Morelia; and Mexico Cooks!.  Photo courtesy of Cynthia Martínez.

    Originally published in 2010, this article about Patricia Quintana's amazing tour of Michoacán bears repeating.
    Mexico Cooks! is on the road at the moment but will be back soon.

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