Category: Recipe

  • The Michoacán Kitchen: A Wealth of Memory

    Kitchen Casa Zuno 1
    This traditional Mexican kitchen dates to the early part of the 20th Century.

    Home cooking for you might be your mother's macaroni and cheese. For my
    friend Shana it's her grandmother's potato latkes, for Danny it's the
    fond memory of his Aunt Ethel's apple crumble. And for me? For the last 30 years, my taste buds and heart have been drawn by the smells and
    flavors of the Michoacán home kitchen.
    The first kitchen fragrance that fills my memory is that of pine wood
    burning in the clay stove centered in the mountain kitchen. One note
    behind the wood smoke is the scent of beans boiling in a clay pot, and
    the fragrance chord is finished by a top note of tortillas toasting on
    the clay comal (a
    large flat clay griddle). The home kitchen closest to my heart belongs
    to Débora, my friend who lives at more than 9500 feet above sea
    level, about two-thirds of the way up the highest mountain in Michoacán.

    Tortillas de Maíz Azul
    Thick, handmade Michoacán blue corn tortillas baking on a clay comal.

    When I visited Débora at home for the first time, my entire notion of
    how a house looks was turned upside down. My friend Celia (Débora's
    sister) had invited me to travel home with her for two weeks:"Ven conmigo a mi tierra, a conocer a mi mamá,"
    she said. ("Come with me to my hometown, to meet my mother.") Thirty years ago, we
    traveled for 52 hours, from Tijuana to what I often tease Débora as being el último rinconcito del mundo
    (the last little corner of the world), by train and by three different classes of bus.  The last 27 kilometers of the
    trip (approximately fifteen miles) was a jolting three hour ride in a converted school bus, on an unpaved road. You read that
    right: three hours to drive fifteen miles. We were traveling on a dirt road that wound nearly
    straight up the mountainside.

    From the bus stop in front of the mayor's office we walked two blocks up another hill and opened a
    small door in a long wall.  We walked up three wide slate steps into a dirt
    patio—and the house? I looked around, wondering where the house was.

    Outdoor Kitchen
    Outdoor kitchens like this one are still common in Michoacán's rural areas.

    I could see one room with a door (the bedroom, I found out later,
    complete with three rope beds and their corn husk mattresses), and
    a sitting-eating-sewing-talking room that had only three walls and
    was open to the air.  The kitchen was a tiny room with an opening
    but no door to close. That was the entire home.

    Looking around, I saw chickens picking and scratching all over the dirt floor of the central patio, the pila

    (a single-tap cold water concrete sink used for washing clothes and dishes), an
    outdoor beehive clay oven, a path that I later discovered led to the
    outhouse, and a tiny, elderly woman wrapped in a rebozo
    (typical shawl) sweeping with a broom made of twigs: Celia's mother.
    Flowering trees and shrubs surrounded the patio; enormous dahlias in
    all colors blessed the wildness of the garden.

    Tired from the long trip, I was soon put to bed at Aunt Delfina's house  next door.

    Early, early the next morning, I stuck my head out the spare
    bedroom door and saw mist hanging among the mountains. I sniffed
    the clean scent of pine smoke in the chilly air. A hint of coffee fragrance
    followed, and the toasty corn smell of freshly handmade tortillas
    cooking. I dressed and went to see what Débora was doing next door in
    that tiny kitchen.

    La Huatápera Metate
    The metate y mano (three-legged volcanic stone grinding stand and its rolling pin) have been in use since centuries before the Spaniards arrived in the New World.

    Débora was outside, standing near an outdoor stove made of a vertical oil drum. She was grinding
    nixtamal (dried
    corn prepared for making dough) on a metate (grinding stand) and patting out tortilla
    after tortilla, placing them onto the clay comal on top of the stove to cook. We smiled buenos días
    to one another and she gestured to offer me a fresh hot tortilla. I ate
    it eagerly and excused myself and went to peek into the kitchen.

    What I saw astonished me. In the center of the dim windowless kitchen
    was a rectangular stove made of clay, plastered over and colored deep
    brick red.

    The four burners were six-inch diameter holes on top of the stove.
    Below each burner hole was a long horizontal compartment for inserting
    and burning split pine wood. The center chimney took most of the smoke
    out through the roof.

    Wooden shelves holding dishes and clay cooking pots hung on the neatly
    whitewashed walls. On a low
    ledge, several kinds of fresh and dried
    chiles were piled on reed mats. A few cobs of dried corn, a plate of
    fresh pan dulce,and
    some fruits I didn't recognize were arranged on a small wooden table.
    Above my head, aged woven reed baskets filled with foodstuffs—dried
    corn, flour, coffee, a bag of beans—hung from smoke-blackened beams.

    A votive candle burned in the corner near a small print of Our Lady of
    Guadalupe.  A jelly glass filled with garden dahlias graced the tiny
    altar.  A steaming clay pot of beans for the midday meal burbled on a
    stove burner.

    Ollas pa'frijoles Capula 2009
    Typical bean pots made in Capula, Michoacán.  If you need one, just tell the vendor the weight of the beans you usually cook: half a kilo, a kilo, or more at a time.  The vendor will show you a pot of the correct size.

    I gazed at this amazing kitchen with awe. There were no modern
    conveniences at all, not even a sink or refrigerator. As I stared, Celia
    stepped in and smiled at me. "This is the way the kitchen has been
    since long before I was born," she said. "My great-grandmother cooked
    here, my grandmother cooked here, my mother cooked here, and Débora and
    I learned to cook here. All that we know of the kitchen is from here."
    She gestured to encompass the tiny space.

    "How does Débora keep food like milk and leftovers cold?" I asked.

    Celia thought for a minute. "The milkman comes on his horse
    every morning and sells her just what she thinks she'll need for the
    day. He dips the milk out of his big metal milk can with a liter
    measure and pours it into one of her clay pots. If there's a bit left
    over at the end of the day, she gives it to the cat or she mixes it with really stale
    tortillas for the pig.

    Cachete
    The local butcher sells Débora exactly the quantity of meat she needs to prepare each day's comida (main meal of the day).  In Mexico's small towns, a red flannel flag hanging on a pole outside the shop is the indication that the butcher has freshly-butchered meat.

    "Débora only buys enough meat for today, and it's always meat that is recién matada
    (butchered today). The meat that's killed and wrapped in plastic to be
    sold in the big markets—who knows how old that is! It never tastes as
    good as today's freshly cut meat.

    "Then if there is food left over from la comida (the
    midday meal), we eat it for supper later. If there's still a little
    left, she gives it to the pig. Nothing goes to waste. And if she buys a
    few limones (Mexican limes), she buries them in the ground to keep them fresh."

    "What else will you teach me while I'm here?" I asked.

    Celia shook her head. "This time you just watch and pay attention. Next time you can try your hand in the kitchen."

    Many of the traditional recipes from Michoacán have their roots in the Purhépecha culture. Corundas, uchepos, minguiche, churipo—the first two are types of tamales, the third is a cheese dish and the fourth a soup—are just-post-Conquest Purhépecha recipes and are only a few of the many dishes that make Michoacán's cuisine extraordinary.

    There are other Mexican recipes that, while not unique to Michoacán,
    have strong ties to the state. There are some recipes which you may
    want to try to duplicate in your home kitchen. If you're not able to
    purchase all of the ingredients you need for these recipes, buy a
    ticket instead and come to taste the cuisine of Michoacán in its
    natural habitat. I'd be glad to take you on a food-tasting adventure.

    Queso Cotija
    Queso Cotija (cheese from Cotija, Michoacán) is aged–like fine wine–before being sent to market.

    Many recipes from Michoacán include both corn and cheese,
    cornerstones of the daily diet. Corn is one of Mexico's native grains
    and Mexico, especially the state of Michoacán, is famous for its
    cheeses. Cotija
    (coh-TEE-hah), a town in Michoacán, has given its name
    to the aged cheese used for topping refried beans and other dishes. If
    you can't find it in your grocer's cheese case, you can substitute
    another aged, crumbly cheese.


    Chiles
    are also an important part of the Michoacán diet. Nearly all of the
    fresh and dried chiles available everywhere in Mexico are found in the
    state, as well as at least one variety that grows almost exclusively in Michoacán,
    the chile perón. Chile perón
    is approximately the size of a golf ball and is bright yellow to orange
    in color. It has black seeds, a fruity flavor, and is extremely hot. On
    a scale of one to ten, it registers about an eleven!

    Chile Manzano
    The beautiful and muy picante (very spicy!) chile perón is used extensively in the cuisine of Michoacán.  It's also known as chile manzano–and is the only chile in the world with black seeds.

    The corunda is a traditional Michoacán tamal that can be made
    either with or without a filling. These are made with a cheese and mild
    chile
    filling and are served with cream and a spicy salsa.

    Corundas Michoacanas (Michoacán Corn tamales)

    For the corundas:
    3 kilos masa (corn dough) (if there is a tortillería near you, buy it there)
    2 cups water
    1 kilo (2.2 pounds) pork lard or vegetable shortening
    5 Tablespoons baking powder
    Salt to taste
    30 fresh green corn stalk leaves (NOT the dried corn husks sold for ordinary tamales)

          
    For the filling:
    1 kilo queso doble crema (similar to cream cheese, which you can substitute)
    1/2 kilo chiles poblanos, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into strips 2" long by 1/4" wide

    Preparation:
    With a large wooden spoon, beat the corn dough and the water together for approximately 30 minutes. Set aside.

    With another large wooden spoon, beat the lard until it is spongy. Add
    the beaten dough to the lard, together with the baking powder and the
    salt. Continue beating until, when you put a very small amount of the masa in a cup of water, it floats.

    Take a fresh corn stalk leaf and place three tablespoons of dough on
    the thickest side of it. Make a small hollow in the dough and put a
    tablespoon-size piece of the cheese and three or four strips of chile in the
    hollow. Cover the cheese and chile strips with another three tablespoons of
    the dough. Fold the corn stalk leaf over and over the dough until it
    has the triangular shape of a pyramid.

    Continue making corundas until all the dough is used.

    Put three cups of water in the bottom of a large steamer pot or tamalera. Use the rack that comes with the steamer pot to hold the first layer of corundas. Place all the corundas
    in the pot, cover, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat so that the
    water is actively simmering but not boiling. Be careful during the
    steaming process that the water does not entirely boil away; check this
    from time to time.  Put a coin or two in the bottom of the tamalera; as the water boils, the coins will rattle.  When you no longer hear the rattle, add more water immediately.

    Allow the corundas to steam for one hour and then
    uncover to test for doneness by unwrapping one to see if the dough
    still sticks to the corn stalk leaf. If it still sticks, steam for
    another half hour. When the leaf comes away from the dough without
    sticking, the corundas are done.

    Salsa:
    1/2 kilo (1 pound) tomates verdes (called tomatillos in the United States), husks removed
    6-8 chiles perón (substitute chiles serrano if necessary), washed
    1 small bunch fresh cilantro, washed
    Sea salt to taste

    Wash the tomatillos until they are no longer sticky. Fill a large saucepan half full with water and bring to a boil. Add the tomatillos and the chiles and boil until the tomatillos  begin to burst open. With a slotted spoon, remove each tomatillo from the pot.  When all of the tomatillos are in the blender, add the chiles
    to the blender. Cover and blend at a low speed until the ingredients
    begin to chop well, and then stop the blender. If your blender has a
    removable center piece in the cover, add the cilantro little by little
    through that hole as you turn the blender back on to 'liquefy'. If the
    cover has no center hole, add some cilantro, blend, stop, and add more
    cilantro until all is blended. Do not chop the cilantro too finely, as
    you want flecks of it to help give the salsa both color and texture.
    Add salt to taste and stir.

    To serve the corundas:
    Unwrap a corunda and place it in a shallow soup bowl. Spoon unsweetened heavy cream over the corunda and top with several spoonfuls of the salsa.

    Making any sort of tamales (including corundas)
    is hard work and is always more fun if you can plan to do it with a
    friend or two. Let the kids help, too. Make a party of it, with the big
    reward—the eating—at the end.

    Corunda
    A corunda with salsa and crema, served by Doña Ofelia at her stand near the Basílica  de Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Our Lady of Health) in Pátzcuaro.

    There will be plenty of corundas left over for everyone to take some
    home for the next day. It's easy to reheat them. Just leave them
    wrapped in their corn stalk leaves when you put them in a plastic bag
    to refrigerate them. Then when you're ready to reheat, place as many as
    your microwave will hold in a Pyrex dish. Cover them with paper
    toweling and microwave on high until they are hot throughout. They're
    just as good left over and they also freeze well.

    Looking for a
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  • My Sweet Mexico: Recipes for Authentic Pastries, Breads, Candies, Beverages, and Frozen Treats

    My Sweet Mexico Book Launch
    Fany Gerson's new cookbook, My Sweet Mexico, is hot off the press and selling like pan caliente (fresh hot bread).  You know you can't live without it!

    The postman rang the bell at Mexico Cooks!' house today and caught me in the middle of roasting and peeling the last of a batch of chiles poblanos for our comida (midday meal).  Mildly annoyed at the interruption–peeling chiles is a messy job and I just wanted to be done with it–I accepted the package.  My annoyance instantly turned to joy and delight: Fany Gerson's long-awaited new cookbook, My Sweet Mexico, was in my hands at last.

    Frutas Cristalizadas
    Frutas cristalizadas (candied fruits), a wonderful standby of the traditional Mexican candy kitchen.

    The publication date for My Sweet Mexico was scheduled to coincide with the 2010 celebration of Mexico's Bicentennial and gives even more reason to celebrate.  I, for one, am ecstatic.  The book is a huge accomplishment: beautiful to look at, written with love and fond remembrance, and clear as the call of the tzintzontle (Mexico's nightingale) for ease of use.  My Sweet Mexico brings Mexico's traditional pastries, breads, candies, sweet beverages, and frozen treats into the home kitchens of the English-speaking world.   

    Mercado Cocadas
    Cocadas (toasted coconut candy), one of the easy-to-follow traditional recipes in My Sweet Mexico.

    Fany Gerson, a native of Mexico City, graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, the foremost cooking school in the United States.  Her work as a pastry chef includes stints at three-star restaurant Akelare in Spain, Eleven Madison Avenue in New York City, and Rosa Mexicano (also in New York City), where she prepared a hugely popular new menu of deliciously modern Mexican desserts.  A well-known food writer, her work has been featured in Gourmet magazine, the New York Times, Fine Cooking, and other top spots.

    Pátzcuaro Nieve de Pasta
    My Sweet Mexico brings us recipes for no fewer than seven kinds of tropical-flavor ice creams, a rainbow of easy-to-prepare sorbets, and three kinds of pure fruit paletas (ice pops).

    Publisher's Weekly has this to say about My Sweet Mexico: "Rare is the cookbook that successfully infuses scholarly research with the pure joy of food, but this collection, focusing on the sweets of Mexico, nails it…American readers who have only encountered the occasional tres leches cake in a Mexican restaurant will be stunned by the breadth and depth of recipes here, ranging from coffee-flavored corn cookies to guava caramel pecan rolls and hibiscus ice pops, all culled from Gerson's family, friends, and generous strangers."

    Dulces Tejocotes
    Tejocotes en almibar (a fruit similar in size and shape to small crab apples, cooked in syrup) are traditional during early winter, the season when the fruit ripens in Mexico.

    Rick Bayless (author of Mexico: One Plate at a Time) waxed poetic: "Mexico’s sweet kitchen is a wellspring of captivating tastes and seductive textures; it courses through Fany Gerson’s veins like caramely cajeta, like a rich flan, or a silky hot chocolate…This is a treasured volume I’ll own two copies of: one for home, another for our restaurant’s kitchens."

    Museo Chaca-Chaca
    Fany's recipe for macarrones (sweet milk fudgy logs) could easily be shaped and wrapped in festive, colorful tissue paper, as are the candies in the center of the photo.  What a perfect party favor!

    Limones con Coco
    Limones rellenos de coco (limes stuffed with sweetened coconut) are slightly bitter, very sweet, and altogether satisfying.

    Roberto Santibañez (author, Rosa's Mexican Table) echoed my feelings exactly: "My Sweet Mexico is fascinating and charming—it is much more than a collection of great recipes. Fany takes readers on a voyage through our country’s marvels and realities, capturing all of its fabulous grandeur with her clever scene of humor. I actually got teary-eyed as Fany’s words carried me on a sweet trip back to my childhood, full of heartwarming memories. I love this amazing cookbook; it is an enormous addition to the archives of Mexican cooking!"

    Mercado Muéganos
    Fany's recipe for traditional mueganos (sticky, sweet, crunchy dough balls) came from a mutual friend, José Luis Curiel Monteagudo.  When it comes to antique recipes for candy and other sweets, Professor Curiel is the most knowledgeable person in Mexico.

    Few cookbooks have elicited this sort of visceral response from other chefs and food writers.  Fany's anecdotes that precede each recipe take us back to an almost forgotten time in Mexico, a time when the sweet smell of caramelizing sugar, simmering seasonal fruit, cinnamon-scented chocolate and woodsmoke wafted from kitchens all over whichever Mexican town we happened to be living in.  Santibañez's tears welled up in my eyes, too, as I read Fany's classic recipe for ate de membrillo (quince paste) and was plunged into the old memory of how I learned its preparation in a convent kitchen in Tijuana.  In my mind's eye, I can still see Sister María Luisa stirring, stirring, and stirring the quince and sugar until, with her sixth sense of a lifetime of kitchen experience, she pronounced the ate to be al punto–ready to pour into its molds.

    Conchas
    Fany's pastry repertoire includes an easy-to-follow recipe for conchas (shells), one of the most common (and delicious) forms of pan dulce, a sweet bread to eat for breakfast or a light supper.  When you make them, serve your conchas with a cup of Mexico's foamy, cinnamon-laced chocolate caliente (hot chocolate).

    My Sweet Mexico is destined to be a classic of the Mexican kitchen.  In my opinion, it's the best single cookbook published in 2010.  World, take note: look for My Sweet Mexico on the short-list for all the cookbook awards.  Get your copy now: simply click on the book cover just to the left; it will take you to Amazon.com to buy My Sweet Mexico.  If you love Mexico, if you love Mexico's kitchens, if you love sweets of any kind–this is a two-thumbs up, marvelous tour of remembrance, love, and most of all, extraordinary deliciousness.  Mexico Cooks! is simply wowed. 

    Pan de Muertos Los Ortiz
    Pan de muertos (dead man's bread)!  The bread dough is flavored with orange and the knobby top represents bones.  November 2 is Día de los Muertos (the Day of the Dead)–order your copy of My Sweet Mexico now, in time to honor your deceased relatives and friends by making this marvelous bread.  Just click on the book cover at the top of the left-hand sidebar–you'll be taken to the Amazon.com page to order My Sweet Mexico.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • The Mexican Flag on Your Plate: Chiles en Nogada for Independence Day

    Chiles en Nogada
    Chiles en nogada (stuffed chiles poblanos in walnut sauce), Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.  Photo by Mexico Cooks!.

    Mexico celebrates its independence
    the entire month of September with parades, parties, and traditional
    food and drink in restaurants and at home.  The traditional festive dish
    during the weeks before and after the Independence Day holiday is chiles en nogada, a magnificent tribute to the seasonal availability of granadas (pomegranates) and nuez (freshly harvested walnuts). From late August till early October, fresh pomegranates and walnuts make chiles en nogada possible.  Spicy chiles poblano, stuffed with picadillo and topped with richly creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, flaunt the brilliant green, white and red of the Mexican flag.


    This
    festive dish is
    traditionally served on September 15 or 16 in honor of Mexico's
    Independence Day, though it is popular anytime in the late summer and
    fall. During
    August and September in the highlands of Mexico, particularly in Mexico
    City and Puebla on the streets bordering the markets, village women can
    be seen sitting on blankets painstakingly peeling off the brown skin
    from each individual walnut. It is important to use the freshest
    walnuts possible, as they produce such a creamy, rich sauce that it is
    worth the effort demanded to peel them.  Yes, the recipe is time-consuming…but you and your guests will jump up and shout "VIVA!" when they've licked the platters clean.

    Ingredientes

    Ingredients

    For the Meat 

    • 2 pounds beef brisket or other stew meat or 1 pound beef and 1 pound pork butt 
    • 1 small white onion, quartered 
    • 2 large cloves garlic 
    • about 1 Tbsp sea salt

     For the Picadillo 

    • 4 Tbsp safflower or canola oil
    • 1/3 cup chopped white onion
    • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
    • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • 1/8 tsp ground cloves
    • 3 heaping Tbsp raisins
    • 1 or 2 chiles serrano, finely minced
    • 2 Tbsp chopped walnuts or pecans
    • 2 Tbsp chopped candied pineapple
    • 1 fresh pear, peeled and chopped
    • 1 apple, peeled and chopped
    • 1 large potato, peeled and diced
    • 3 large, ripe tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
    • sea salt to taste

    Chiles_poblanos

    For the Chiles 

    • 6 fresh chiles poblanos, roasted, peeled, and seeded, leaving the stem intact 

     For the Nogada (Walnut Sauce) 

    • 1 cup fresh walnuts 
    • 6 ounces queso doble crema or cream cheese (not fat free) at room temperature 
    • 1-1/2 cups crema mexicana or 1-1/4 cups sour cream thinned with milk 
    • about 1/2 tsp sea salt or to taste
    • 1 Tbsp sugar   
    • 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 cup dry sherry (optional)

    Granadas

    For the Garnish 

    • 1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
    • 1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds

    Method

    Cut
    the meat into large chunks, removing any excess fat. Place the meat
    into a large Dutch oven with the onion, garlic, and salt. Cover with
    cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam
    that collects on the surface. Lower the heat and allow the water to
    simmer about 45 minutes, until the meat is just tender. Take the pot
    off the stove and let the meat cool in the broth. Remove the pieces of
    meat and finely shred them.

    Warm
    the oil in a large, heavy skillet and sauté the onion and garlic over
    medium heat until they turn a pale gold. Stir in the shredded meat and
    cook for five minutes. Add the cinnamon, pepper, and cloves, then, stir in
    the raisins, the two tablespoons of chopped walnuts. Add the chopped pear,
    apple, and potato, and mix well. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste,
    and continue cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture
    has evaporated. Stir often so that the mixture doesn't stick. Let cool,
    cover, and set aside. The picadillo may be made a day or two in advance.


    Make a slit down the side of each chile, just long enough to remove the seeds and veins. Keep the stem end intact. Drain the chiles, cut side down, on paper towels until completely dry. Cover and set aside. The chiles may be prepared a day in advance.

    At
    least three hours in advance, put the walnuts in a small pan of
    boiling water. Remove from the heat and let them sit for five minutes.
    Drain the nuts and, when cool, rub off as much of the dark skin as
    possible. Chop into small pieces. Place the nuts, cream cheese, crema,
    and salt in a blender and purée thoroughly. Stir in the optional sugar,
    cinnamon, and sherry until thoroughly combined. Chill for
    several hours.

    Chile_en_nogada_2


    Preheat the oven to 250ºF. When ready to serve, reheat the meat filling and stuff the chiles until they are plump and just barely closed. Put the filled chiles, covered, to warm slightly in the oven. After they are thoroughly heated, place the chiles (cut side down)
    on a serving platter or on individual plates, cover with the chilled
    walnut sauce, and sprinkle with the cilantro (or parsley) and
    pomegranate seeds.

    This dish may also be served at room temperature, or it may be served chilled. It is rarely if ever served hot.

    Photos 2, 3, 4, and 5 courtesy of Jesús Guzmán Moya, M.D., of Puebla, Puebla, México.  Enjoy more of Dr. Guzmán's lovely photos here.  Gracias, amigo Chucho!

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  • Mexico Cooks! in Tepoztlán and Cuernavaca…Heaven!

    Tepoztlán El Ciruelo Gladiolas
    Tepoztlán's Restaurante El Ciruelo is the perfect setting for a leisurely mid-afternoon comida (main meal of the day), for drinks and botanas (snacks), or simply for coffee and dessert with friends.

    Betty Fussell, Rondi Frankel, and I spent a warm, sunny Monday morning shopping in Tepoztlán's street market around the main town plaza.  We didn't make any major purchases, but we had a terrific time looking at all the clothing and artesanía (arts and crafts) available at the booths.  Suddenly all three of us were hot, tired, and more than anything, famished.  Betty suggested that we head for Restaurante El Ciruelo, so off we went, praying to San Pascual Baylón (the patron saint of the kitchen) that El Ciruelo was open on Monday.  It was!

    Tepoztlán El Ciruelo 1 Vista
    At El Ciruelo, open every Monday, you will enjoy a beautiful setting as well as a marvelous meal.  Our table faced lush green gardens with a backdrop of Tepozteco, Tepoztlán's craggy mountain.

    We settled ourselves in the covered central open area of the restaurant and studied the menu.  Everything sounded terrific and we wanted it all.  Reason prevailed, however, and we limited ourselves to ordering a couple of appetizers, a sopa seca, and a main dish, all served al centro–to share.

    In Mexico, there are distinctions between sopas, the literal definition of which is soup: one type sopa is sopa aguada (wet soup), which can be caldo (broth), consomé (consomme), or crema (cream soup).  In rare instances, sopa aguada is called just sopa: Sopa Azteca (Aztec soup) or Sopa Tarasca (Tarascan soup) are two examples.

    The second type sopa is sopa seca, which, to the foreigner, doesn't seem like 'soup' at all.  Sopa seca refers to standard Mexican-style red rice, espagueti o macaroni con crema (spaghetti or macaroni served with cream sauce), or fideos, a thin pasta more like vermicelli than any other kind of pasta.

    Tepoztlán El Ciruelo Queso y Pastel de Elote
    The three of us shared two appetizers: left, an absolutely delicious quesillo (Oaxaca cheese) wrapped in hoja santa and bathed in a light and subtle lemony sauce and top, pastel de elote (corn cake) served drizzled with crema (Mexican table cream) and sprinkled with rajas de chile poblano (strips of poblano chile).

    Tepoztlán El Ciruelo Cecina Fideos etc
    Clockwise from the left, our platillo fuerte (main dish) included  cecina de Yecapixtla (seasoned, grilled beef), served with black beans and slathered with crema and salsa, the sopa de fideos (garnished with sliced avocado) that we ordered separately, and guacamole garnished with squares of chicharrón

    We relaxed at El Ciruelo for nearly an hour after finishing our delicious meal, enjoying the breezes, the view, and one another's company.

    Restaurante El Ciruelo            
    Calle Zaragoza #17
    Barrio La Santísima
    Tepoztlán, Morelos, México
    Tel: 739.395.1203

    If you'd like to try preparing sopa de fideos at home, Mexico Cooks! prepares it like this:

    Sopa de Fideos Estilo Mexico Cooks!
    Serves 3 or 4 as a side dish.  It's a great change from rice or potatoes.

    Ingredients
    200 g pasta de fideos, either long or short (I prefer La Moderna brand, but any brand will do)
    1 chile serrano, finely minced*
    1/2 small white onion, finely minced*
    2 Tbsp vegetable oil
    2 cups boiling water
    1 Tsp tomato bouillon powder (Knorr Suiza or other)

    *Both of these may be omitted if you prefer.

    In a heavy medium-size sauté pan, heat the vegetable oil and sauté the minced chile and onion over a medium flame until they are translucent.  Add the pasta de fideos and sauté until the pasta is light golden brown.

    Add the two cups of boiling water and the tomato bouillon powder.  Stir until the powder is well dissolved.

    Cover and simmer until the pasta has absorbed almost all of the water.  Serve.

    Las Mañanitas Terraza con Sombrillas
    One of several elegant and formal terraces at Las Mañanitas.

    Rondi Frankel, who grew up in Mexico City and its environs, wanted to introduce me to Hotel and Restaurante Las Mañanitas, a favorite childhood haunt in Cuernavaca.  Betty, who had celebrated a birthday at Las Mañanitas just a few days before our visit, was eager to go back again.

    Las Mañanitas Botanas
    A tray of botanas (salty snacks) served with drinks at Las Mañanitas.  That's my paloma in the foreground.  A paloma is prepared in a tall glass with tequila, jugo de limón (lemon juice), salt, and grapefruit soft drink, over ice.  It's such a light and refreshing drink.

    Las Mañanitas Pavoreal
    Once he realized that we were suckers for his looks, this irresistible beggar ate all of our botanas, first out of our hands and then right out of the dishes on the tray–peanuts, pepitas (squash seeds), and even the potato chips!

    Las Mañanitas Guacamaya
    The pair of guacamayas (green wing macaws) at Las Mañanitas were much more photogenic than the three of us friends.

    Las Mañanitas Pasillo
    A gorgeous arched interior passageway at Las Mañanitas.  The precisely manicured grounds, home to exotic birds both feathered and human, are also home to original bronze sculptures by Francisco Zúñiga.

    Las Mañanitas Loro
    One of the feathered type.

    Las Mañanitas Vista al Jardín
    Another view of the gardens at Las Mañanitas.  This mid-20th Century hotel has 20 guest rooms or suites, a restaurant a pool, a spa, and many other high-end amenities.

    Las Mañanitas
    Calle Ricardo Linares #107
    Cuernavaca, México 62000
    USA Tel: 01.800.789.4988

    After more than a couple of hours' relaxation while bewitched by the old-style Mexican elegance that pervades Las Mañanitas, we reluctantly tore ourselves away and headed home to a more modern kind of Mexican elegance at Betty's borrowed heaven-on-earth pied a terre in Tepoztlán.  What a blessed life!

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  • Sin Maíz, No Hay País: Without Corn, There is No Country

    On July 22, 2010, UNESCO awarded Mexico's ancient corn-based cuisines–in particular the traditional cuisine of Michoacán–with the very first coveted World Heritage designation granted to a cuisine: Patrimonio Intangible de la Humanidad.  Dra. Gloria López Morales, head of Mexico's Conservatorio de Gastronomia Mexicana, made the announcement in Bogotá, Colombia, where she was attending a culinary conference organized by that country's Mexican embassy.  After six years of concerted efforts by Dra. Morales and many others involved in the preservation of Mexico's rich culinary history, the award brings honor to our beloved country and her exquisite traditional kitchen. 

    This article, originally published by Mexico Cooks! on June 14, 2008, offers a brief overview and a bit of insight into Mexico's history of corn and its uses.

    Mayan Corn God Yum Kaax
    Yumil Kaxob, the Mayan corn god.

    Mexico is corn, corn is Mexico.   From prehistoric times, Mexico has produced corn to feed its people. Archaeological remains of early corn ears found in the Oaxaca Valley date as far back as 3450 B.C.  Ears found in a cave in Puebla date to 2750 B.C.

    Diego Rivera, Festival de Maiz
    Diego Rivera, Festival de Maíz, 1923-24.

    Around 1500 B.C. the first evidence of large-scale land clearing for milpas appears. Indian farmers still grow corn in a milpa, (corn field), planting a dozen crops together, including corn, melon, tomatoes, sweet potato, and varieties of squash and beans. Some of these plants lack nutrients which others have in abundance, resulting in a powerful, self-sustaining symbiosis between all plants grown in the milpa. The milpa is therefore seen by some as one of the most successful human inventions – alongside corn.1

    Listen as this group from Burgos, Tamaulipas, sings a song from the early 20th Century: Las Cuatro MilpasThe song's sad verses recount the loss of a family's home and its milpas.        

    "Only four cornfields remain         
    Of the little ranch that was mine,

    And that little house, so white and beautiful
    Look how sad it is!

    Loan me your eyes, my brown woman,
    I'll carry them in my soul,
    And what do they see over there?
    The wreckage of that little house,
    So white and beautiful–
    It's so sad!  The stables no longer shelter cattle,
    Everything is finished!  Oh, Oh!
    Now there are no pigeons, no fragrant herbs,
    Everything is finished!

    Four cornfields that I loved so much,                 
    My mother took care of them, Oh!
    If you could just see how lonely it is,
    Now there are no poppies and no herbs!"

    The family-owned milpa is quickly disappearing from Mexico's flatlands and hillsides, giving way to agro-business corn farming.  Today, Mexico's corn industry produces more than 24 million tons of white corn a year.  Nearly half again that amount is imported from other countries. The imports are primarily yellow corn used to feed animals.

    Woman Blowing on Corn, Florentine Codex
    Woman singing to or praying over corn as she puts it in the fire– so that the corn will not be afraid of the heat.  Florentine Codex, Fray Bernardino Sahagún, third quarter 16th Century.

    According to the Popul Vuh, the Mayan creation story, humans were created from corn.  Do you know the story? 

    At first, there were only the sky and the sea.  There was not one bird, not one animal.  There was not one mountain.  The sky and the sea were alone with the Maker.  There was no one to praise the Maker's names, there was no one to praise the Maker's glory.

    Milpa
    Traditional milpa (cornfield) in the mountains of central Mexico.

    The Maker said the word, "Earth," and the earth rose, like a mist from the sea.  The Maker only thought of it, and there it was.

    The Maker thought of mountains, and great mountains came.  The Maker thought of trees, and trees grew on the land.

    The Maker made the animals, the birds, and all the many creatures of the Earth. 

    Masa Tricolor
    Masa tricolor (three-color corn dough) ground by hand using the metate y mano.

    The Maker wanted a being in his likeness.  First the Maker used dirt to create a Human, but
    made of mud and earth.  It didn't look very good.  Dry, it crumbled and wet, it softened.  It looked lopsided and twisted. It only spoke nonsense.  It could not multiply.  So the Maker tried again.

    Our Grandfather and Our Grandmother, the wise deities of the Sun and Moon, were summoned.  "Determine if we should carve people from wood," commanded the Maker. 

    They answered, "It is good to make your people with wood.  They will speak your name.
    They will walk about and multiply."

    "So be it," replied the Maker.  And as the words were spoken, it was done.  The doll-people were made with faces carved from wood.  They had children.  But they had no blood, no sweat.  They had nothing in their minds.  They had no respect for the Maker or the creations of the Maker.  They just walked about, accomplishing nothing.

    "This is not what I had in mind," said the Maker, and destroyed the wooden people.

    Corundas y Churipo
    In Michoacán, unfilled tamales called corundas are eaten with churipo, a richly delicious beef and cabbage soup.

    The Maker sat and contemplated the ears of corn, the kernels of the ears.  The Maker thought, "What comes from this nourishing life will be my people," and the Maker ground the corn, ground the corn and formed Man and Woman.  On the first day, when Man and Woman, formed from corn, awakened, they rose up praising the Maker's name and giving thanks for their lives.  They bore children, they praised the Maker as they planted corn and tended the crop.  They were made in the Maker's image, born from corn.  The Maker and his people rejoiced in one another."

    Yumil Kaxob Corn God
    Stone image of Yumil Kaxob.  Photo courtesy of Michael Martin.2

    Imagine an entire people formed from corn, formed to honor the seed, the earth, the plant, the crop!  Corn cannot grow without human intervention; ancient Mesoamerican humanity could not have existed without corn.  Spiritual planting rituals continue to be celebrated in the milpas every chosen planting day. 

    Corn is still the staple food of Mexico.  Nixtamal (dried dent corn soaked in water and cal, builder's lime) is corn's basic currency.  Nixtamal is the starting point for the tortilla, the tamal, the corunda, the sope, the cup of atole, and a myriad of other masa-based preparations.

    Sin Maíz No Hay País
    This poster advertises a conference about "Nuestro Maíz" (Our Corn) held on June 3, 2008 at the Autonomous University of Chihuahua, Mexico.

    As Mexico changes, corn production also changes.  NAFTA and globalization have affected Mexico's corn industry, as has genetic modification of corn itself.  Is corn food, or is corn fuel for vehicles?  Argument rages about the future of Mexico's corn.  There is, however, no doubt: sin maíz, no hay país.  Without corn, there is no country.

    1.  http://www.philipcoppens.com/maize.html
    2.  http://www.pbase.com/pinemikey/image/85632845

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  • Ruta de Aromas y Sabores 2010: La Mesa de Blanca


    Blanca Entrada

    The sign on the entry wall at Restaurante La Mesa de Blanca in Ziracuaretiro, Michoacán says that the place is a "restaurant of celebration".  Whether your celebration is simply a pleasant comida (midday meal) for you and your family or a huge party for friends, the joy of life overflows at Blanca's table.

    Two weeks ago, Mexico Cooks! wrote about the glorious Ruta de Aromas y Sabores 2010 tour through Michoacán.  For me, the highlight of that part of the tour was our stop for comida at Restaurante La Mesa de Blanca in tiny, far off-the-beaten-track Ziracuaretiro.

    Blanca Estela Vidalia
    The wonderful Sra. Chef Blanca Estela Vidales, who, together with her equally wonderful husband, Don Rodrigo Lemus, founded La Mesa de Blanca nearly nine years ago.  Chef Blanca's joyful personality fills the restaurant with happiness.

    Nearly 100 well-known chefs and journalists from all parts of the world had boarded tour buses and vans that morning, heading for truly fascinating culinary destinations in west-central Michoacán.  The day bore down on all of us; no matter that we were eager to do and taste and experience everything on the tour agenda, the plus-ninety degree heat, blazing sun, and the accumulated exhaustion of nearly two weeks on the road had us all fainting in our bus seats.  The buses took ever more twisting mountain roads through enormous avocado orchards as many of us dozed in silent appreciation of the on-board air conditioning.  But where were we going?  A few more turns in the road and we stopped in the tiniest town imaginable.  The driver opened the bus door and WOW!  The booming tuba and brilliant horns of a brass band shook the sleep from all of our heads.

    Blanca con Ofrenda de Plátanos 1
    The ofrenda de plátanos (banana offering) in Ziracuaretiro.

    Blanca con Ofrenda de Plátanos 2
    The Aromas y Sabores 100-member tour, preceded by a brass band, the ofrenda de plátanos, and a group of restaurant servers dressed in Michoacán's ropa típica (regional clothing) danced up the hill to the restaurant.

    Blanca con Vista del Restaurante
    The charming restaurant was ready for the onslaught of the suddenly hungry members of the tour.  Open to the fresh mountain breezes, decorated with tropical greenery, and roomy enough for the largest party, La Mesa de Blanca is a gorgeous surprise.  Click on the photo for a better view of the restaurant's interior stream filled with golden koi.

    Blanca Ceviche y Aguas
    Chef Blanca made certain that every table was complete with a variety of botanas (appetizers) and aguas frescas (fresh-made juice drinks.  The house-signature agua fresca is made with locally-grown blackberries.  The botana pictured above is ceviche made of Michoacán-farmed rainbow trout and the famous Hass avocados grown in the region around Uruapan.

    Blanca Botanas
    Another botana, this time Blanca's famously delicious guacamole with house-made chicharrón and grilled nopal cactus paddles.  The entire meal was accompanied by interleaved stacks of fresh-from-the-comal blue and white tortillas.

    Blanca Platillo Fuerte
    After a choice of either tortilla soup or sopa de milpa (chicken broth with corn and squash)–and some diners had both!–the main course included a locally grown, sun-dried chile pasilla stuffed with cheese, aporreadillo en salsa de aguacate (dried, seasoned beef and scrambled egg in avocado sauce), and a heavenly uchepo (regional specialty fresh-corn tamal).

    Carnitas
    In addition, servers brought each table a huge wooden batea (tray), lined with banana leaves and piled with freshly made, juicy carnitas.  The carnitas were so delicious that the six tour members at Mexico Cooks!' table gobbled them all down and asked for more, which also promptly disappeared.

    Blanca Postres
    Along with locally-grown coffee, every diner sampled three desserts: volcán de mango (mango 'volcano' served on a purée of local strawberries), a tamal de zarzamora (sweet blackberry tamal) and ice cream made from regionally-grown mamey.  Every item of meat and produce is produced within shouting distance of the restaurant.

    Blanca con Ofrenda de Plátanos 4
    The ofrenda de plátanos, called "La Cuelga", is a local Ziracuaretiro tradition celebrated especially during the banana harvest.  Why?  In 1554, Don Vasco de Quiroga brought the first five banana plants to this spot in Michoacán from the island of Santo Domingo.  In thanksgiving for the first successful banana harvest in the New World, these offerings are still made every year on November 30.  Aromas y Sabores 2010 was privileged to experience the tradition at La Mesa de Blanca.

    Blanca con Bosco y Lucero
    Mexico Cooks!' delightful friends, Juan Bosco Castro García (Director of Promotion for the State of Michoacán's Department of Tourism) and Executive Chef Lucero Soto Arriaga, Restaurante LU, Hotel Best Western Casino, Morelia.  Every person traveling with the Ruta de Aromas y Sabores 2010 tour had a marvelous time–and an equally marvelous comida–at La Mesa de Blanca.

    Blanca con Vista al Jardín
    Every table in the restaurant offers a beautiful view.  Choose from misty Michoacán mountainsides, the Ziracuaretiro pink and white church tower, or this vision of the restaurant garden and banana trees; no matter where you look, you will find a fresh and restful vision.

    Whether you are visiting Uruapan, Pátzcuaro, or Morelia, it's a simple drive to La Mesa de Blanca.  You need not be part of a special tour to receive a very special welcome and eat a very special meal.  Please, when you go, tell Sra. Blanca that you read about her here on Mexico Cooks!–and give her a big hug from me.

    La Mesa de Blanca
    Avenida Ferrocarril sin número


    Ziracuaretiro, Michoacán, México

    Tels: 01.423.593.0355 or 01.423.593.0356

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  • Museo del Dulce, Morelia: The Sweetest Heritage

    Museo Lillia con Pastel
    Lilia Facio Hernández offers us one of the 37 gorgeous varieties of cakes made at the Museo del Dulce de la Calle Real (the Royal Road Candy Museum).  Buy as little as a slice to indulge yourself, or purchase as much as an entire cake for a party dessert.  Each cake is more beautiful than the next and each one has a name from Mexico's history.  This one is the Iturbide, named for General Agustín Iturbide, hero of Mexico's 1810 War of Independence and designer of Mexico's first flag.

    Mexico Cooks! has had some very sweet interviews, but none has been sweeter than the time we spent recently with Arquitecto Gerardo Torres, owner of Morelia's Museo del Dulce (candy museum).  Imagine spending several hours in a 19th Century Morelia mansion presently converted into a real-life version of Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory!  Delicious aromas of melting sugar constantly waft through the air, sepia-tone photographs carry us back to earlier times in Morelia, and charmingly attractive employees treat each customer like visiting royalty.

    Museo Chocolatería
    Walking into the Museo del Dulce's retail chocolate and cake shop is a voyage to the Porfiriato (the era of Porfirio Díaz), a trip to the 19th Century.

    De la Calle Real, the candy-making firm that's part of the Museo del Dulce, has been in constant business since 1840.  The oldest family of candy makers in Morelia prides itself on the continuity of its passion for the sweet life.  Family recipes, hand-written in spidery script on yellowing pages, family photographs dating over the last two centuries, and the importance of family heritage glow in every corner of the building that was at one time the Torres home.  Every corner of the many rooms of the house, now converted to a museum and retail shop, breathes history and love of Mexico.

    Museo Carreta
    An old wooden carreta (cart) parked in one of the museum patios looks like it's just waiting to be hitched up to a team of draft animals.

    The original De la Calle Real candy shop was located in Morelia's portales (arched, covered walkways) on Avenida Madero, across from the Cathedral.  Later, the shop moved to its current spot–still on Avenida Madero, just a few blocks to the east.  Now, De la Calle Real has locations in Morelia's upscale Plaza Fiesta Camelinas, in Mexico City's traditional neighborhood Coyoacán, and will soon open branches in both Sanborns and Palacio de Hierro, two of Mexico's swankiest department stores.

    Museo Fábrica 1940s
    One room of the museum is set up with machinery used in the 1940s, when the family candy business was only 100 years old!  This beautiful hand-made copper pot has a double bottom, like a bain-marie, to keep the cooking candy from burning.

    Not only does the company continue to produce candy from old family recipes, Arq. Torres also prides himself on participating in the rescue of recipes dating back as far as pre-Colonial days.  Sweets composed of native fruits and vegetables were made with honey until the Spanish brought sugar cane to the New World.  Chocolate, native to Mexico, was consumed only by the indigenous nobility as an unsweetened cold drink–served either as bitter chocolate or flavored with chile–prior to the arrival of the Spanish. 

    Museo Dulces Conventuales
    Decorated like a convent shop, this museum and sales room carry us back to the time when fine candies were made in Morelia by cloistered Dominican nuns.  Click on the picture to enlarge any photo.

    Museo Ate de Membrillo
    In the demonstration kitchen, Mexico Cooks! watched as the cook combined equal parts fresh membrillo (quince) pulp and cane sugar in a copper pot.  She was preparing ate de membrillo (quince candy).  When the mixture formed una cortina (a curtain) without dripping as the wooden spoon was lifted from the pot, the ate was at its point of perfection.

    It's an easy walk from the Centro Histórico (Morelia's historic center) to the Museo del Dulce, but why not take the little tourist trolley instead?  Hop on in front of the Cathedral (buy tickets at the Department of Tourism kiosk in the Plaza de Armas, just to the right of the Cathedral).  The trolley will take you from there to some of the most important historic sites in Morelia, including the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, the Conservatorio de las Rosas (the oldest music conservatory in the New World) and the glorious Templo de las Rosas (Church of St. Rose of Lima, originally the home of Morelia's 16th Century Domincan nuns), and the Museo del Dulce.  The trolley trip, which lasts slightly over an hour, gives the tourist plenty of time to enjoy all of these Morelia traditions.

    Museo Ate Ya Hecho
    Dulces de la Calle Real (the candy maker's brand name) prepares specialty ates de membrillo in molds which create the embossed images of some of Morelia's historic landmarks: (from left) Las Tarascas fountain, the 18th Century aqueduct, and the Cathedral.

    Museo Ate Gourmet Empacado
    The candy maker prepares and packages small gourmet ates made of strawberry, pineapple, blackberry, and other fruits that are little-used in this presentation.  Each box tells a story, each ate is perfectly molded.

    Museo Dulce de Chayote con Hoja de Higuera
    For special culinary events, the museum occasionally re-creates antique recipes, some of which date to Mexico's colonial days.  This just-made historic ate contains chayote (vegetable pear, or mirleton) and fresh fig leaves.

    An excellent video, shown for everyone visiting the Museo del Dulce, tracks the history of candy making in Morelia.  Long known for ates (fruit pastes) and laminillas (fruit leathers), Morelia developed another culture of candies during the Porfiriato, the long presidency of Porfirio Díaz (1875-1910).  During those 35 years, the influence of everything French invaded Mexico and colored the fashion of Mexico's upper-class society.  French-style sweets became all the rage, and Morelia never lagged in preparing candies and cakes to meet the demand.  Today, Porfiriato-style cakes, beautiful to see and delicious to taste, are made and sold by De la Calle Real.  You can sit for a while in the cozy elegance of the Café del Patio de Atrás (the Back Patio) coffee shop and choose from a menu of 37 different cakes, house-made Mexican hot chocolate, delicious fresh-made ice creams, and a mind-boggling selection of other delights from the Museo del Dulce's menu.

    Museo Jamoncillo Bicentenario
    The candy maker created beautiful embossed jamoncillo (milk candy similar to penuche) ovals to honor Mexico's 2010 Bicentennial.  Each one carries the image of a hero of Mexico's independence.  These candies represent Miguel Hidalgo, father of the Independence.  The candy molds are hand-carved by a museum employee.

    Museo Closet de Sombreros
    There's a room of the store where you can dress up in Victorian-era clothing–from elegant feathered hats to fancy silk dresses, from black top hats to cutaway suits–and a shop employee will take your picture.  What a terrific souvenir!

    Museo Chaca-Chaca
    In part of the retail shop, lines of baskets hold individual candies for instant gratification of your sweet tooth–or to pack easily into your suitcase to carry home as gifts.  The tissue-paper-wrapped candies are similar to jamoncillo.

    Museo Jugetes 1
    Another entire room of the store is just stuffed with a variety of small toys, perfect for an inexpensive souvenir from Morelia.  Inexpensive and easy to pack, they're exactly right for the child in all of us. These are baleros.  The idea is to hold the long handle in your fist (with the cup on top) and catch the small wooden ball.  It looks easy to accomplish–but it's quite a challenge!

    Museo Rompope
    Nuns originated Mexico's famously delicious rompope (a kind of eggnog).  You'll find it in several flavors and bottles ranging from small to large, all made by the artisan candy makers at Dulces de la Calle Real.

    Absolutely everything about the Museo del Dulce and De la Calle Real is devoted to reverence for the past, passion for perfection in the present, and devotion to the future preservation of Mexico's traditions.  Every product and its packaging, designed and developed by Arq. Torres, is an homage to Mexico.  Each candy box incorporates an old photo and a paragraph-long history lesson, with the treat you purchased as your sweet reward for learning. 

    Museo Elia y el empaque
    Elia Ramírez Ramírez is packing small sweet treasures in Mexican pottery containers.  The packaged candies are destined for the retail store.  All employees who work directly with the public wear 19th Century costumes.

    As Arq. Torres said during our time together, "We are the in-between generation.  We still remember mothers and grandmothers who made candy at home.  We still hold that tradition in our hearts.  It's up to us to keep those memories alive, to pass them to our children and help them pass the traditions to the generations that follow.  Otherwise, we will forget everything that truly makes us who we are."

    Museo Gerardo Torres
    Arquitecto Gerardo Torres, the delightful gentleman who runs this sweet business with passionate care, comes from a long line of candy makers.  He showed Mexico Cooks! lovely old photos of his mother, his grandmother, and his great-grandmother–candy makers one and all.

    Whether you are a fan of jamoncillo, ate, chocolate,
    rompope or another traditional Mexican sweet, you will be as
    thrilled as Mexico Cooks! was with everything about the Museo del Dulce
    and De la Calle Real.  If De la Calle Real is your first experience of
    heavenly Mexican candy, it will spoil you for every other kind. 

    Museo Empleados
    Come to visit, stay to give in to temptation!  Employees at the Dulces de la Calle Real Museo del Dulce will be glad to help you find the perfect house-made candy for yourself, your relatives, and your friends.

    De la Calle Real Museo del Dulce                                    
    Av. Madero #440
    Colonia Centro
    Morelia, Michoacán, México
    443.312.8157

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  • Everything But the Squeal: Chicharrón (aka Fried Pork Skin)

    Chicharrón 1
    Hot-out-of-the-grease porky deliciousness: chicharrón (chee-chah-ROHN, fried pork skin), as made at the Morelia tianguis (street market) where Mexico Cooks! shops every Wednesday.  The piece of just-made chicharrón in the photo above is about 60cm high by 45cm wide (two feet by one and a half feet).  The cazo (cooking vessel) in the photo is about three feet in diameter at the top.

    Mexico is a huge producer of pork, and not just any pork: the little piggy that goes to market here is usually finely grained, tender, and flavorful.  The meat has just enough fat-to-lean ratio for a wonderful feel in the mouth.  Every part of the pig is consumed, from the head (pozole) to the curlicue tail (cooked in a pot of beans).  Even the skin is eaten, in at least two forms: fried as chicharrón or sliced into thin strips and pickled as cueritos.

    Chicharrón 7
    Fresh chicharrón, almost ready to eat, gets a final dowsing with boiling oil.

    In the United States, pork
    rinds destined for the snack food aisle begin as hard, dry pellets made in a factory. Meat processing plants
    sell these pellets in bulk to snack food producers and individual pork rind vendors. The
    dehydrated pellets are placed in vats of hot cooking oil, maintained at a
    temperature around 400 degrees Fahrenheit (approximately 204 degrees
    Celsius). A consistent cooking temperature is crucial, since colder oil
    may not cause the pellets to puff out during the deep frying
    stage. The individual pork
    rind pellets are held
    down in the near-boiling oil with a metal screen to insure consistency; after about 60 seconds, they're ready for packaging.

    Pork Rind Packaging
    Typical pork rind marketing from the United States.  Crunchy pre-packaged pork rinds and NASCAR go together like gin and tonic, bread and butter, or mashed potatoes and gravy.

    In Mexico, very little processing takes place between the on-the-hoof pig and the cazo (huge metal pot used to make chicharrones).  The slaughterer skins the pig in as large a single piece as possible, soaks the skin briefly in brine, and sends it to market.  At the tianguis where I shop on Wednesdays, the chicharrón vendor's brother kills the pig at the rancho.  Another relative–the vendor next to the chicharrón purveyor–sells the rest of the freshly killed animal: ribs, tongue, liver, kidneys, legs, chops, tenderloin, etc.  Feet sell fresh or pickled, ears sell fresh or fried.


    Chicharrón 2
    In Mexico, customers usually wait in line for fresh chicharrón to come out of the cazo.  Although packaged chicharrón is available in supermarkets, freshly-made is infinitely better.  Truly, there is no comparison.

    Pork rinds, long a popular snack food in the southern United States, became
    popular country-wide with the advent of high-protein food plans such as
    the Atkins and South Beach
    diets. Unlike potato or corn chips, fried pork rinds have no
    carbohydrates at all. They are exceptionally high in protein, however,
    which makes them ideal for those who prefer snack foods that have no starch component.

    Chicharrón 3
    Fresh chicharrón can be delgado (thin, above) or gordito (thick, below).  Chicharrón delgado is just the crispy, crunchy fried skin of the pig.  Ask the vendor to weigh out as much or as little as you need; in Mexico, chicharrón is sold by the kilo.  You can see the old-fashioned scale that my vendor uses in the photo above.  Other vendors at the tianguis use digital electronic scales.

    Chicharrón 5
    Chicharrón gordito is fried with little squares of pork meat still attached to the skin.  The meat develops a creamy texture, which contrasts beautifully with the crunch of the crisp-fried skin.  The difference in color between this photo and the one above is due to the red lona (tarp) that hung above the first booth and the blue lona that hung over the second booth.

    The main concern about pork
    rinds, however, is their high sodium content.  Pork
    rinds can have up to three times as much sodium as regular potato
    chips.  In spite of their sodium content, pork rinds are usually less
    greasy than other snacks.

    Pork rinds and Guacamole
    In Mexico, guacamole is often served with chunks of chicharrón instead of totopos (tortilla chips).

    In addition to eating chicharrón as a snack food, most Mexicans also enjoy it as a high-protein yet inexpensive meal.  Served everywhere in Mexico, chicharrones en salsa verde is enormously popular.

    Chicharrones en Salsa Verde
    Fried Pork Skins in Green Sauce

    Sauce
    1 lb fresh tomatillos, husked and washed
    1 large bunch cilantro, washed well
    4 to 6 chiles serranos, depending on your heat tolerance
    Salt to taste

    Listo para Licuar 2
    Mexico Cooks! already ground the tomatillos and chiles in the blender.  The cilantro is ready to add.

    In
    a large, heavy saucepan, bring 4 quarts water to a boil.  Add the husked tomatillos and the
    chiles.  Allow to boil until the
    tomatillos begin to crack open.  As each
    one opens, remove it to your blender jar. 
    A few may not open; when the rest are done, just add the unopened
    tomatillos to the rest in the blender jar. 
    Add the chiles as well.  Blend
    until roughly chopped.  Using the hole in
    the center of your blender top, add the cilantro little by little , blending
    until the cilantro is finely chopped. 
    Add salt to taste.

    Heat the salsa verde in the large, heavy saucepan until the sauce is simmering.  Add six or so ounces of freshly-made crunchy chicharrón delgado.*  Allow the chicharrón and salsa to simmer for several minutes.  The texture of the chicharrón will change; during the simmer time, it will become soft and slippery.

    If you prefer, you can put a portion of chicharrón into a bowl and pour the heated sauce on top.  The chicharrón will stay crunchy. 

    *Don't try to make this recipe with pre-packaged snack food pork rinds; they will fall apart in the sauce. 

    Serve with hot tortillas, steamed rice, and a cold beer.

    Serves two or three. 

    Provecho!

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    for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click
    here:
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  • Doña Yola’s Albóndigas de Pollo (Chicken Meatballs) en Salsa Verde

    Doña Yola la Chef
    Last week we met Doña Yolanda Rodríguez Orozco, the delightful cook at Morelia's Buffet Hacienda Valladolid.

    One of the most delicious items on the menu at Hacienda Valladolid is Albóndigas de Pollo en Salsa Verde (chicken meatballs in green sauce).  Because I promised that I would share the recipe with all of you, Doña Yola graciously shared her amazing recipe with Mexico Cooks!  Simple to prepare and marvelous to taste, these meatballs have already made it to star status on our dining table.

    Pechuga de Pollo Molida
    A chicken vendor grinds fresh chicken breast to order at the weekly tianguis (street market) in our neighborhood.  Ask the butcher at your supermarket to grind it for you.

    Espinacas
    Gorgeous dark green vitamin-rich spinach, ready to chop for the albóndigas.

    Hierbabuena con Huevos
    Fresh mint grown in a pot on our terrace, along with beautiful fresh local eggs.

    Albóndigas de Pollo en Salsa Verde Estilo Doña Yola
    Chicken Meatballs in Green Salsa, Doña Yola's Way

    Ingredients for the meatballs
    1 kilo (2.2 lbs) freshly ground chicken breast
    100 grams (1/4 lb) raw fresh spinach (stems removed), finely chopped
    1 small white onion, finely minced
    1 clove garlic, finely minced
    1 Tbsp fresh mint, finely minced
    1 chile serrano, finely minced
    1/2 cup cooked white rice
    3 eggs, lightly beaten
    1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
    Sea salt to taste
    Freshly ground pepper to taste
    1 tsp cornstarch or as needed

    Mezcla
    Ground chicken, spinach, onion, garlic, mint, and chile serrano, ready to mix with cooked rice.

    Procedure
    Lightly mix the first seven ingredients together.  Beat the eggs and Worcestershire sauce together and mix by hand into the mixture.  Add sea salt and ground black pepper to taste.  Add cornstarch until the mixture holds together well when you form a small amount into a ball.  Form the mixture into balls approximately 2" in diameter.  Makes 20 albóndigas.  Plate the meatballs in a single layer (Mexico Cooks! likes to re-use washed Styrofoam meat trays from the supermarket for the albóndigas), cover and refrigerate until ready to cook.

    Tomate y Chile
    Tomates verdes (tomatillos) and chiles serranos for preparing salsa verde.  Remove the tomatillos'  papery husks and wash the sticky tomatillos thoroughly.

    Ingredients for Salsa Verde
    10-12 tomatillos (known in Mexico as tomate verde), husks removed
    3 or 4 whole chiles serranos
    1 bunch fresh cilantro, largest stems removed
    Sea salt to taste

    Hervido

    Procedure
    In a large pot of water, bring the tomatillos and chiles to a full rolling boil.  Boil just until the tomatillos begin to crack; watch them closely or they will disintegrate in the water.

    Listo para Licuar
    Using a slotted spoon, scoop the cooked tomatillos and chiles into your blender jar.  There's no need to add liquid.  Cover, hold the blender cap on, and blend until smooth.  Be careful not to burn yourself, this is a hot mixture and tends to react like lava in the blender.

    Listo para Licuar 2
    While the blender is running, remove the center of its cap and, little by little, push the cilantro into the whizzing sauce.  Blend just un
    til smooth; you should still see big flecks of dark green cilantro in the lighter green sauce.  Add sea salt to taste and stir.

    Ya en la Salsa
    Pour the salsa into a 2-quart pot.  Add the meatballs and bring to a simmer.  Cover and allow to simmer for about 30 minutes.  Mexico Cooks! prepared six meatballs for our comida (main meal of the day), but two meatballs apiece were plenty for the two of us.  We ate the leftovers (and another two meatballs) the following day.  We froze twelve raw meatballs without salsa for subsequent meals.

    Para dar Hambre
    Albóndigas de pollo en salsa verde, plated with white rice cooked with carrots, Mexican style.

    Mexico Cooks! is so grateful to Doña Yola for sharing her recipe with us.  These albóndigas de pollo are not only easy to prepare and very healthy (with high vitamin K and beta carotene content and no added fat), but they are also absolutely delicious.

    Provecho!

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  • Home Cooking Away from Home: Buffet Hacienda Valladolid, Morelia

    Fuente Plaza Valladolid
    The fountain in Morelia's Plaza Vallodlid, in front of the Casa de Artesanía.

    Are you hungry and looking for comida (main meal of the day) in Morelia?  Would you like delicious, home-style Mexican food, as much as you care to eat?  Would you like to pay a fair price?  Ah, then Buffet Hacienda Valladolid, just a half-block from the Casa de Artesanía (House of Arts and Crafts), is exactly what you want.

    Dining Room
    One of several attractive dining areas at Buffet Hacienda Valladolid.

    Gabriel y Silvia
    Gabriel Miranda Arredondo and his wife, Silvia Araiza González, opened Hacienda Valladolid in July 2009.  Their hope was to feed not only business people in downtown Morelia, but also to attract hungry tourists in the area.  They have succeeded remarkably well, in large part due to their own kindness and generosity as hosts.

    Petra con el Buffet
    Sra. Petra takes care of maintaining the guisados (prepared foods) on the daily buffet.

    The first challenge for Gabriel and Silvia was finding the heart of the restaurant: a very special cook, someone whose unique sazón (essence and flavor in cooking) would draw clients through the door.  Gabriel specializes in Chinese cooking and Silvia runs another business, so neither was able to devote adequate attention to the Mexican cuisine they wanted to serve.  They put a help-wanted advertisement in Morelia's local newspaper and what showed up?  A miracle!

    Doña Yola la Chef
    Doña Yolanda Rodríguez Orozco, chief cook and head miracle-worker at Buffet Hacienda Valladolid.

    Doña Yola, as she is known, told Mexico Cooks! that she has been a professional cook for more than 30 years.  She lived with her godparents after she was orphaned at twelve; her godmother–a marvelous home cook–taught young Yolanda her kitchen secrets because, she said, "If you know how to cook, you can always support yourself.  You never know what life will bring you, so it's best to be prepared."

    Entrada con Vajilla
    Plates, bowls, cups and silverware are set up just inside the restaurant.  Everything at Hacienda Valladolid is self-service, but if something is lacking at your table, ask maitre de Ernesto Gama Castillo (Doña Yola's husband for the last 32 years) and he'll see that you have it.

    Doña Yola's kitchen training has served her well.  After more than 25 years as a cook in port restaurants in Lázaro Cárdenas, Michoacán, she and her husband moved to Morelia.  Here in the city, she was much in demand in industrial dining rooms, cooking for large businesses.  She prefers to cook in a smaller environment like Hacienda Valladolid, so she was eager for the new work opportunity.

    Buffet with Albóndigas
    Some of the buffet items the last time Mexico Cooks! ate at Hacienda Valladolid included carne de puerco con chile negro (pork in black chile sauce), guisado de carne de res (beef), and albóndigas de pollo en salsa verde (chicken meatballs in green sauce).

    Doña Yola laughed when she told me how she started work at the restaurant.  "Everything had to be done!  We washed walls, we cleaned floors, we installed stoves and grills–and we made everything look good, feel good, and taste good."  The restaurant kitchen, less than half the size of Mexico Cooks!' kitchen at home, turns out food for hundreds of diners every day.  The restaurant is especially busy during weekends, when families and regional tourists turn out for a wonderful and inexpensive comida.

    Buffet with Caldo de Pollo and Rajas
    Absolutely delicious caldo de pollo con verduras (chicken broth with vegetables, left) and rajas de chile poblano con champiñones en crema (poblano chile strips with mushrooms in cream, right) are buffet staples.

    Buffet with Beans and Rice
    Traditional arroz a la mexicana (Mexican rice) and frijoles refritos (beans) are always on the menu.

    Drinks
    Agua fresca de frutas (mixed fruit 'water') and agua de sandía (watermelon) are fresh-made daily.  Coffee is always available and house-made atole is on the menu as well.  All drinks (and all desserts, including freshly cut seasonal fruits, gelatins, arroz con leche (rice pudding), and cakes) are included in the cost of your comida.  You might hit the jackpot and also find Doña Yola's capirotada (bread pudding) on the dessert menu; it's the best Mexico Cooks! has ever eaten.

    Platillo #1
    Starting at seven o'clock and going clockwise around the plate: frijoles refritos, arroz a la mexicana, albóndigas de pollo con salsa verde, and carne de puerco con chile negro.  And this was just the first helping!  At Hacienda Valladolid, you are always welcome to try everything on the buffet and serve yourself as much as you like.

    Homey and comfortable, Hacienda Valladolid is where you want to be when you want your comida plentiful, delicious, and inexpensive.  Gabriel and Silvia will make you feel like part of the family.  Doña Yola's cooking will delight you and satisfy your hunger.  Like Mexico Cooks!, you'll want to go back as often as possible.  

    Buffet Hacienda Valladolid
    Fray Juan de San Miguel #50 (south of Av. Madero, 1/2 block from Plaza Valladolid)
    Colonia Centro
    Morelia, Michoacán
    Cost as of March 2010: 60 pesos, self-serve, all you can eat

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