Category: Recipe

  • Ponche Navideño :: Hot Christmas Punch, Excellent All Winter Long

    Ponche Naviden?o Mexico Desconocido
    Mexico's fragrant, delicious ponche navideño–Christmas punch, served hot.  Loaded with seasonal fruits and sweet spices, it's a do-not-miss at our Christmas festivities and is often served throughout the winter season, which is downright chilly in the Mexican highlands.  The recipe is simple and the rewards are many; you, your family, and your holiday guests will love it as much as all of us do.  Photo courtesy México Desconocido.

    At nearly every winter party in Mexico, you'll find a big vat of steaming hot, homemade ponche navideño.  Served with or without a piquete (a shot of rum, tequila, or other alcohol), this marvelous drink will warm you from the inside out.  Really, it wouldn't be Christmas (or a posada, or New Year's Eve) without it.  Here's the recipe I've used for years.  

    Ponche Navideño Mexicano**
    **You should be able to buy everything on this list at your local Latin market

    2 pounds sugar cane, peeled and cut into 3” sticks
    1 pound apples, cored and cut into thin slices or chunks
    1 pound pears, cored and cut into thin slices or chunks–Bosc are excellent for this
    10 ripe guavas, cut in quarters and seeded
    Peel of one orange 
    1 pound tejocotes, cut in quarters and seeded
    1/2 pound tamarind fruit removed from the pods and deveined
    1/2 pound prunes with or without seeds
    2 ounces dried jamaica flowers
    2 cloves
    1 star anise pod (optional)
    1 kilo piloncillo (Mexican brown sugar)
    1/2 cup white sugar (optional)
    2 long sticks Mexican cinnamon, broken in thirds or quarters

    6 quarts of water or more

    Special Equipment
    A 12-to-14 quart lidded pot
    __________________________________________________________________

    Before you start cutting up fruit, put 6 quarts of water in a pot, cover it, and over high heat, heat it until it boils.  

    Add all the cut fruit to the pot and bring the pot back to a boil.  Then lower to simmer and simmer for 20 minutes.  If you think the pot needs more water, bring it to a boil separately and add it little by little.

    Add the tamarind, the prunes, the jamaica, the cloves, the piloncillo, the white sugar, the cinnamon, and continue to simmer until all of the fruit is soft and tender. 

    We usually ask our adult guests if they'd like their ponche con piquete (with alcohol–rum, tequila, etc).  Add a shot to each cup as requested, prior to adding the ponche.

    Serves 12 to 15.  If you have some left over, save it (fruit and all) till the next day and re-heat.  Ponche navideño is even better the second day!
    _____________________________________________________________

    Ponche 2 Tipos 2018 1
    Sugar cane is in season right now!  On the left, you see it in the already-peeled cut-to-size "sticks" you want for your ponche.  On the right, you see the unpeeled sections that you want for your piñata!  Thanks to Verónica Hernández at Mexico City's Mercado Medellín (corner of Calle Campeche and Av. Medellín, Colonia Roma) for letting me take this photo; if you're in the city, look for her and her employer, Mario Bautista, at Booth 138–tell her you saw her caña (sugar cane) on Mexico Cooks!.

    Ponche Guayaba Medelli?n 2018 1
    The fragrant perfume of ripe guayabas (guavas) permeates our markets right now–they're in season and ready to buy for ponche.

    Ponche Tejocotes Medelli?n 2018 1
    Seasonal tejocotes–Mexican hawthorn, similar to the crabapple.  Each of these fruits measures approximately 1 1/4" in diameter.  The fruit is very high in pectin, which slightly thickens a pot of ponche.  If you simply cannot find tejocotes, substitute another pound of apples.

    Ponche Tamarindo
    Tamarind pods with their shells on.  Be sure to peel off the shells before cooking!  If you're unable to find the pods, use about 1/4 pound tamarind paste.

    Ponche Ciruela Pasa 1
    These are prunes with seeds.  You can use these or you can used seedless prunes.

    Ponche flor-de-jamaica-entera-deshidratada-100-grs-D_NQ_NP_766401-MLA20338152558_072015-F
    These are the dehydrated jamaica flowers you need to make ponche.  They add deep red color and slight tartness to the drink.

    Ponche anis estrella
    Star anise for your ponche.  You will find this in the store where you usually buy spices, at a Latin market, or at an Asian market.

    Jamaica Piloncillo
    Look at this huge display of piloncillo (molded raw brown sugar) at the Mercado de Jamaica, Mexico City!  One kilo will be enough for this recipe's ponche.  Click on any photo to enlarge.

    Ponche Canela y Pasitas
    This is what's known as canela–Mexican "true cinnamon".  The truth is, it's grown in Sri Lanka and imported to Mexico.  Notice how many, many layers of very thin bark are folded in on one another.  This cinnamon is quite soft, breaks and flakes easily, and is what you want to look for to use in ponche and any other Mexican recipe calling for cinnamon.  Do not be misled into buying cassia, a much more readily found, much harder in consistency, and much less flavorful "fake" cinnamon usually found packaged in the United States.  Look for canela at your Latin market; the sticks are usually quite long.  These measure nearly a half-meter!  To the right side are Mexican raisins, which, if you like, you can also add to the ponche.

    Ponche en taza Kiwilimon
    Old-fashioned Mexican peltre (enamel over metal) cups filled with ponche navideño.  Be sure to put a lot of all of the varieties of fruit into each cup.  Those are caña (sugar cane) sticks (colored pink by the jamaica flowers)–an edible decoration and a tool for pushing fruit from the cup into your mouth!  Photo courtesy Kiwilimon.

    Provecho!  (Mexico's way of saying bon appetit!)  

    May your Christmas be filled with the love of family and friends, and with the delicious flavors of Mexico!

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  • Tamales for Christmas in Mexico :: It’s Never Too Early to Start Dreaming of Them!

    Las 15 Letras Tamales de Armadillo
    Tamales Oaxaca style, wrapped in banana leaves.  These tamales, prepared in the kitchen at Restaurante Las 15 Letras in Oaxaca, were filled with armadillo meat.  They were absolutely delicious.

    When I was a child, my mother would sometimes buy a glass jar (I have conveniently forgotten the brand name) packed with what we called "hot tamales". Wrapped individually in parchment paper, covered in a thin, brackish, tomato-y fluid, these slippery travesties were all I knew of tamales until I moved to Mexico.

    The first Christmas season I that I lived in this country, over 40 years ago, my neighbor from across the street came to my door to deliver a dozen of her finest home-made tamales, fresh from the tamalera (tamales steamer). I knew enough of Mexico's politeness to understand that to refuse them would be an irreparable insult, but I also was guilty of what I now know as contempt prior to investigation. I did not want tamales. The memory of those childhood tamales was disgusting. I smiled and thanked her as graciously as I could.

    "Pruébalos ya!" she prodded. "Taste them now!" With some hesitation I reached for a plate from the shelf, a fork from the drawer (delay, delay) and unwrapped the steaming corn husk wrapper from a plump tamal she said was filled with pork meat and red chile. One bite and I was an instant convert. My delighted grin told her everything she wanted to know. She went home satisfied, wiping her hands on her apron. I downed two more tamales as soon as she was out of sight. More than 40 years later, I haven't stopped loving them.

    Tamales Tamalera Tamales Méndez
    A three-compartment tamalera: bottom left, Oaxaca-style tamales wrapped in banana leaves.  Right, central Mexico-style tamales, wrapped in corn husks.

    [youtube=://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUWjZTAWMQU&w=350&h=315] 
    The 'official' voice of the ubiquitous Mexico City tamales oaxaqueños vendors. One of these carts visits our street every night at about ten o'clock.

    Christmas in Mexico is a time for special festive foods. More tamales than any other food come from our Christmas kitchen. Tamales of pork, beef or chicken with spicy red chile or semi-tart green chile, tamales of rajas con queso (strips of roasted poblano chiles with cheese), and sweet pineapple ones, each with a single raisin pressed into the masa (dough), pour in a steady, steaming torrent from kitchen after kitchen. 

    I asked my next door neighbor what she's making for Christmas Eve dinner. "Pues, tamales,que más," she answered. "Well, tamales, what else!" 

    I asked the woman who cleans my house. "Pues, tamales, que más!" 

    I asked the woman who cuts my hair. "Pues, tamales, que más!"

    And my handyman. "What's your wife making to eat for Christmas Eve, Felipe?" 

    I bet by now you know what he replied. "Pues,tamales, que más?"

    Obviously there are other things eaten on Christmas Eve in Mexico. Some folks feast on bacalao a la vizcaína (dried salt codfish stewed with tomatoes, capers, olives, and potatoes). Some women proudly carry huge cazuelas (rustic clay casserole dishes) of mole poblano con guajolote (turkey in a complex, rich sauce of chiles, multiple toasted spices, and a little chocolate de metate (stone ground chocolate), thickened with ground tortillas) to their festive table. Some brew enormous ollas (pots) of menudo (tripe and cow's foot soup) or pozole (a hearty soup of nixtamaliz-ed cacahuatzintle, a native white corn, chiles, pork meat, and condiments) for their special Christmas Eve meal, traditionally served late on Nochebuena (Christmas Eve), after the Misa de Gallo (Midnight Mass).

    As an exceptional treat, we're sharing part of a photo essay by my good friend Rolly Brook, may he rest in peace.  The photo essay is all about tamales, their ingredients and preparation. Rolly's friend doña Martha cooks a whole pig head for her tamales; many cooks prefer to use maciza—the solid meat from the leg. Either way, the end result is a marvelous Christmas treat.

    Doña Martha Prepares Tamales for Christmas 

    Cabeza_cocida 
    Doña Martha, now with Rolly in heaven, begins to take the meat off the cooked pig head.

    Carne_de_cabeza
    Doña Martha mixes the shredded meat from the pig head into the pot of chile colorado (red chile sauce that she prepared earlier in the day).

    Mezclando_la_masa 
    Doña Martha needs a strong arm to beat freshly rendered lard into the prepared corn for the masa.  The lard and ground corn must be beaten together until the mixture is as fluffy as possible.

    Poniendo_la_masa_a_las_hojas 
    Doña Martha's daughter spreads masa (corn dough) on the prepared hojas de maíz (corn husks).

    Hojas_con_masa 
    Corn husks spread with masa, ready to be filled.

    Poniendoles_el_relleno 
    Doña Martha fills each masa-spread corn husk with meat and chile colorado.

    Doblando_los_tamales 
    Folding the hojas de maíz is an assembly-line process involving the whole family.

    Readytocook 
    Tamales in the tamalera, ready to be steamed.  Steaming takes an hour or so.

    Tamales de Puerco en Chile Rojo
    One small plateful of the finished tamales!

    The photos only show part of the process of making tamales.  You can access Rolly's entire photo essay on his website.  A few years prior to his death, Rolly graciously allowed Mexico Cooks! the use of his wonderful pictures.  Although Rolly is now having his Christmas tamales in heaven, his website is permanently on line for the benefit of anyone who needs almost any information about life in Mexico.

    Can we finish all these tamales at one sitting?  My friends and neighbors prepare hundreds of them with leftovers in mind. Here's how to reheat tamales so they're even better than when they first came out of the steamer.

    Recalentados (Reheated Tamales)

    Over a medium flame, pre-heat an ungreased clay or cast iron comal (griddle) or in a preheated heavy skillet. Put the tamales to reheat in a single layer, still in their corn husk wrappers. Let them toast, turning them over and over until the corn husks are dark golden brown, nearly black. Just when you think they're going to burn, take them off the heat and peel the husks away. The tamales will be slightly golden, a little crunchy on the edges, and absolutely out of this world delicious.

    Provecho!  (Good eating!)

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  • Longaniza con Papas, Easy and Delicious!

    Longaniza Mercado de Jamaica 31 de octubre 2018 1a
    Here's a young butcher making longaniza in a market in Mexico City.  Longaniza is chorizo's first cousin, and you can use either of those sausages in this recipe.  I prepare this dish with whichever of the two I have on hand.  You might wonder which is which: here's a little trick I made up a long time ago so I wouldn't forget.  Chorizo is made as short links, and longaniza isn't made in links, so the sausage is long–the way you see it in the photo.

    One of the simplest and most popular dishes in a Mexican household is longaniza or chorizo con papas–Mexican spicy sausage with potatoes, onions, and often a small amount of chile serrano to kick up the spice factor. I decided to prepare this earlier in the week, as I had some longaniza in the refrigerator that needed to be used.

    Longaniza Ingredients
    These three ingredients plus the longaniza and a little salt are all you need to prepare longaniza con papas!

    Longaniza Cebolla y Chile
    Minced chile serrano and diced onions.

    Longaniza Cruda
    Here's the longaniza, still in its casing.  Slide a sharp knife between the casing and the meat; remove and discard the casing.

    Longaniza Papas Cortadas
    The raw potatoes, diced.  The only potato we have in my part of Mexico is called papa Alfa, and there's really no other choice of variety.  The potato grower's union here is super-strong and won't normally allow other kinds of potatoes to come into the country.  Alfa is king.  You, however, might be able to find russets or Yukon Golds where you are, and you might like to try those instead of Alfas.

    Longaniza con Papas
    Spicy Sausage with Potatoes

    Utensils
    2-quart deep pot with lid
    2-quart heavy skillet
    Colander
    Big spoon

    Ingredients
    Half a kilo (approximately one pound) of longaniza or chorizo**
    Between half a kilo and a kilo of potatoes–the recipe is very flexible.  
    One chile serrano, minced (optional)
    One medium white onion, cut into small dice (about 1/4" square)
    A splash of vegetable oil
    Salt to taste

    **In your supermarket or Latin market, you may see a sausage labeled chorizo español.  This chorizo is much firmer than Mexican chorizo and is best for grilling, not for preparing this dish.

    Procedure
    Add water to the pot to about 2/3 level.  Salt the water, cover the pot and bring the it to a boil.  While the pot is coming to a boil, peel and dice the potatoes.  Add them to the boiling water and set your timer for 20 minutes.  I checked at 15 minutes, but the potatoes weren't yet tender.  Fork-tender is what you're looking for.  When the potatoes are tender, turn them into the colander and allow to drain well.  Set aside.

    Longaniza A Freir
    You want your longaniza to fry to this color.  It's still tender and moist.  Compare the color in this photo with the color in the photo above, before you cook it.

    If you haven't done so already, peel the casing from the longaniza and break the sausage into short sections.  Add a splash of vegetable oil–a tablespoon or so–to your skillet and let it heat to a shimmer.  Add the longaniza to the skillet and, stirring regularly, use your big spoon to break it into smaller and smaller pieces.  As it fries, it will become a darker color than it was when raw.  When it's a uniformly darker color, scoop it out into a small bowl and reserve it.  Be sure to leave the longaniza grease in the skillet–it will add a lot of flavor to the potatoes.

    Add the potatoes to the skillet and fry until they take on the slightly red color of the grease.

    In the same grease, sauté the diced onions and minced chile serrano until they are soft but not browned.  

    Last, add the reserved longaniza and any remaining grease in the bowl where they it was reserved.

    Longaniza con Papas Terminado
    Taste for salt and correct, and it's ready to eat.  Longaniza con papa is a super-quick and delicious supper, and 100% traditionally Mexican.  

    Serve with tortillas for making tacos and an agua frescaBuen provecho!  (Good appetite!)

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  • Deliciously Spicy Picadillo, Ideal for Your Winter Table

    Picadillo Cookbook
    Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz (1915-2003), a proper British woman married to Mexican diplomat César Ortiz Tinoco, learned Mexican cuisine in Mexico City, her husband's home town.  She published her wonderful The Complete Book of Mexican Cooking in 1967, which introduced the English-speaking world to some of the regional cuisines of Mexico.  I've cooked from this ever more raggedy, taped-together, yellowing, food-stained, still-magical paperback edition since the middle 1970s, starting years before I moved to Mexico.  The first truly Mexican recipe I ever prepared was picadillo, from Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz's book.  It's Mexico's traditional home-style hash.  

    Picadillo Ingredients 1
    The ingredients for picadillo are available in almost any supermarket.  Starting with the bowl of ground beef and pork at lower left in the photograph and moving clockwise, you see the raw meat, Mexican cinnamon sticks, bright orange carrots all but hidden in the dish, chiles serrano, Roma tomatoes, white potatoes, a Red Delicious apple, raisins and dried cranberries, freshly dried hoja de laurel (bay leaves), a whole white onion, and, in the little dish in the right-center foreground, freshly dried Mexican oregano.  I dried the bay leaves and the oregano myself, but you can make substitutions: use ground cinnamon rather than the cinnamon sticks, store-bought bay leaves, and the oregano you normally use instead of the Mexican type; the rest of the ingredients are commonplace.

    Picadillo Onions and Chiles
    Minced chile serrano and diced white onion.

    Hash of all kinds is one of the most comfortable of comfort foods, and the hash called picadillo (the word means 'a little something chopped-up') is simply Mexico's slightly more rambunctious cousin.  This picadillo recipe is always forgiving, always flexible.  Prepare it with ground beef, ground pork, or a combination of the two meats.  Use more potatoes, fewer carrots, an extra tomato (or two, if the ones you have are quite small).  Don't care for olives?  Leave them out.  But by all means do try picadillo: it's a far cry from your mother's canned corned beef hash.

    Picadillo Tomatoes Apple Carrots Knife
    More ready-to-cook raw ingredients, left to right: diced tomatoes; peeled, diced apple; peeled, diced carrots.  For size comparison's sake, the knife blade is 10.5" long.

    Ingredients
    1 kilo (2.2 lbs) ground pork, ground beef, or a combination of the two
    3 large, ripe Roma tomatoes, diced
    3 fresh chiles serrano, minced  (Use less chile if your tolerance for picante (spiciness) is low.)
    1 clove garlic, minced  
    1 medium-large white onion, peeled and diced
    4 medium carrots, peeled and diced
    1 or 2 large Red Delicious apples OR 1 or 2 large, ripe Bartlett pears OR one of each, peeled and diced
    4 medium white potatoes, peeled and diced
    1 cup large green olives, with or without pimento, sliced
    3/4 cup raisins, I like to use sultanas, but dark raisins are equally delicious
    1 tsp dried oregano, Mexican if you have it
    3 large bay leaves
    2" piece of Mexican cinnamon stick OR  big pinch of ground cinnamon
    1 dried clove, pulverized
    Freshly rendered pork lard OR vegetable oil, as needed
    Sea salt to taste
    Beef, chicken, or pork stock, or water, as needed

    Picadillo Olives Sliced
    Sliced large green pimento-stuffed olives.  Each of these olives measures a bit more than one inch long prior to slicing.  Slice them in thirds or quarters.

    Equipment 
    A large pot with a cover.  I use a 4-quart enameled casserole.
    Cutting board
    Sharp knife
    Large wooden spoon

    Preparation
    Heat 3 Tbsp lard or vegetable oil in your cooking pot until it shimmers.  Add the onion and chile and sauté over medium fire until the onion is translucent.  Add the ground meat and continue to sauté over medium fire until the meat is no longer pink.  Break the meat into bite-size chunks as it sautés.  Add the rest of the ingredients.

    Picadillo All Ingredients in Pot
    After sautéeing the onion, chile, and meat, add the rest of the solid ingredients to the pot and stir to incorporate them all. Then add stock or water; the liquid should come to about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the pot.  Enlarge any photo for a bigger view; you'll be able to see that I used a combination of raisins and dried cranberries.  I had about a quarter cup of dried cranberries on hand; a neighbor loaned me the raisins to make up the difference in measurement.  The section at the bottom of the photo is blurred due to rising steam.

    Cover the pot, leaving the cover just slightly ajar.  Lower the heat to its lowest.  Set your kitchen timer for 30 minutes and go do something else!  When the timer rings, check the pot for liquid.  If the picadillo has absorbed most of the original liquid, add the same amount again.  With the cover ajar, continue to cook over a very low flame for another 30 minutes and correct for salt.  Voilá!  It's picadillo, ready to serve!

    Picadillo Finished Cooking
    Picadillo, ready to serve after an hour's cooking.  This amount of picadillo will serve 6 to 8 hungry people when served over steamed white rice or Mexican red rice.  I like to prepare the picadillo recipe, serve it as a main meal, and save the rest to re-heat and serve the next day.  If anything, it is even better after a night's rest–but then, aren't we all?  After the second day, whatever picadillo is left freezes beautifully.

    Picadillo In the Plate
    Delicious, spicy picadillo, served over rice.  You and your family will love this traditional Mexican meal.  By all means let me know how it goes over at your house. A huge thank you to Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz.

    Provecho!  (Good eating!)

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  • Carne de Cerdo en Salsa Verde (Pork in Green Sauce) :: Wonderful For Cold Weather

    This recipe, initially published in 2008–13 years ago–by Mexico Cooks!, continues to be the most popular of all our articles.  Any time of year, but especially in the winter months in frigid climates, you and your family and guests will relish the warmth of this delicious dish. Enjoy!

    Tomate y Chile

    Tomatillos with their husks and fresh chiles serrano.

    If you are like most cooks–Mexico Cooks! included–there are times when you want to astonish your guests with your intricate culinary skills by preparing the most complicated and time-consuming recipes you know.  A seven-course Szechuan dinner that I prepared several years ago comes immediately to mind; it took me several days to recover from a full week of preparations. 

    Then there are other times when you want to prepare something relatively quick but still completely delicious and which will inevitably win raves from your companions at table.  This recipe for pork in green salsa absolutely satisfies both requirements.  It's my never-fail dish for many company dinners.  

    Although there are other ways to prepare the dish (griddle-roasting rather than boiling the vegetables for the sauce or leaving out the steps of flouring and browning the meat, for example), this is my favorite method.

    Carne de Cerdo en Salsa Verde (Pork in Green Chile Sauce)
    Six generous servings

    Ingredients
    Salsa verde (Green sauce)
    1 pound tomatillos (known in Mexico as tomate verde), husks removed
    4 or 5 whole chiles serrano, depending on your tolerance for picante (spiciness)
    1/2 medium white onion, coarsely chopped
    1 clove garlic (optional)
    1 medium bunch fresh cilantro, largest stems removed
    Sea salt to taste

    Manojo de Cilantro
    Fresh cilantro.

    Carne de cerdo (Pork Meat)
    1 kilo (2.2 pounds) very lean fresh pork butt, cut into 2" cubes
    White flour
    Salt
    Oil or lard sufficient for frying the pork

    Preparation
    Salsa verde
    In a large pot of water over high heat, bring the tomatillos and chiles (and garlic, if you choose to use it) to a full rolling boil.  Boil just until the tomatillos begin to crack; watch them closely or they will disintegrate in the water.

    Hervido
    Let the tomatillos and chiles (and garlic, if you like) boil until the tomatillos begin to crack.

    Using a slotted spoon, scoop the cooked tomatillos, salt, and chiles into your blender jar.  There's no need to add liquid at first, but reserve the liquid in which the vegetables boiled until you see the thickness of your sauce.  You might want to thin it slightly and the cooking liquid will not dilute the flavor. Set the vegetables aside to cool for about half an hour.  Once they are cool, cover the blender, hold the blender cap on, and blend all the vegetables, including the chopped onion, until you have a smooth sauce. 

    Be careful to allow the tomatillos and chiles to cool before you blend them; blending them while they are fresh from the boiling water could easily cause you to burn yourself, the hot mixture tends to react like molten lava exploding out of the blender.  (Note: don't ask me how I know this.) 

    Listo para Licuar
    In the blender, the boiled and cooled tomatillos and chiles.  The cilantro goes in last.

    While the blender is running, remove the center of its cap and, little by little, push the cilantro into the whizzing sauce.  Blend just until smooth; you should still see big flecks of dark green cilantro in the lighter green sauce.  Taste for salt and correct if necessary.  Reserve the sauce for later use.

    Carne Dorada
    Golden brown pork cubes.

    Carne de Cerdo (Pork Meat)
    Preheat oven to 170°C or 350°F.

    Pat the 2" pork cubes as dry as possible with paper towels.

    Put about 1/4 cup flour in a plastic grocery-size bag.  Add 1/2 tsp salt.  Melt the lard over high heat in a large heavy oven-proof casserole.  While the lard is melting, shake about 1/4 of the cubed pork in the salted flour.  When the oil or lard begins to smoke, add the floured pork cubes, being careful not to dump the flour into the pan.  Cover the pan.  As the pork cubes brown, shake another 1/4 of the pork cubes in flour and salt.  Turn the pork cubes until all sides are golden brown.  Remove browned cubes to a bowl and reserve.  Add more floured pork to the hot lard.  You may need more oil or lard as well as more salted flour.  Repeat until all pork cubes are well browned.  Reserve the browned pork in the same pan, scraping the crispy bits from the bottom.

    Add the sauce to the pork cubes in the casserole, making sure that all the cubes are immersed in sauce.  Cover and put the casserole into the oven, reducing the heat to 160°C or 325°F.  Bake for two hours.  Add cooking liquid from the vegetables if necessary to keep the sauce relatively thick but not sticking to the casserole.  The pork will be fork-tender and the green sauce will take on a rich, deep, pork-y flavor and color.

    Carne y Salsa Listo para Hornear
    The browned pork cubes and green sauce, ready to be baked.  This particular batch of carne de cerdo en salsa verde was a little more than double the recipe included here.  The recipe is very forgiving and can easily be doubled or tripled to fit the number of guests on your dinner party list.  If a whole recipe is too much for your needs, make it anyway: it freezes very well.

    Serve with arroz blanco (steamed white rice) or arroz a la mexicana (red rice), refried beans, a colorful, contrasting vegetable, and fresh, hot tortillas.  Mexico Cooks!' money-back guarantee: everyone will come back for seconds.

    Provecho!

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  • Pan Dulce (Sweet Bread) for Breakfast, Pan Dulce for Supper

    Pan_con_cafe
    Steaming hot café con leche (expresso coffee mixed with hot milk), served with a basket of Mexico's pan dulce (sweet bread).  I took this photo many, many years ago–so long ago I don't remember when–in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán at Restaurante Don Rafa, when don Rafa was still living and had served me and my companion cafe con leche and a basket of pan dulce to start our breakfast. I still miss him, and may he rest in peace. 

    In early 2000, when my mother visited me here in Mexico, one of her deepest wishes was to visit a Mexican bakery. For more than 40 years, Mother baked every crumb of bread that she and her guests consumed: white, rye, whole wheat, pumpernickel, sourdough, French baguette, and esoteric international loaves that she just had to try.  Mother wanted to see how bread baking was done in Mexico.  She even arrived with her baking apron, hoping to push her hands deep into some yeasty Mexican dough.

    In those years, there was a tiny wholesale bakery in a garage just around the block from my house.  The owner, don Pedro, the master baker, and I had become good friends.  Shortly after Mom's arrival, I took her to meet him and his helpers. For two hours that afternoon, don Pedro and my mother swapped bread stories—conversation about oven temperatures, yeast, flour densities, protein content, and tales of experiments, successes and failures. My mother was amazed that don Pedro used a big clay oven with no temperature gauge.  He tested the temperature by sticking his hand into the oven, and he just knew from experience when it was right.

    Don Pedro spoke no English and my mother spoke no Spanish, but I interpreted between them and they discovered that they were soul mates. The day before Mother was to leave for home, I took her to say goodbye to don Pedro. They both cried and insisted that pictures be taken before they exchanged farewell hugs. Such is the bond of bread.

    Panes_en_bulto
    Bread fresh from the oven: the evocative aroma brings back timeworn memories of Mom's kitchen, filled with the yeasty perfume of twice-raised, golden-crusted hot bread. Here in Mexico, that redolent scent wafts through the air from bakeries scattered like hidden treasures through many neighborhoods. At certain hours of the early morning and mid-to-late afternoon, barrio (neighborhood) ovens disgorge mountains of pan dulce (sweet bread) destined for tiny corner mom-n-pop stores or for sale to individuals.

    For a few pesos, an early desayuno (breakfast) of pan dulce served with milk, juice, hot chocolate, or coffee gets Mexico up and off to work or school.  For a few pesos in the evening, the same sort of late supper rocks Mexico to sleep.

    In the history of the world, bread has its own record and development. The making of wheat bread has evolved with the progress of world civilization. Particularly in gastronomic Mexico, bread has deep roots in the evolution of the República. The Spanish brought wheat to Nueva España to make communion hosts for the Catholic churches they established here, and to prepare the white bread to which they were accustomed.   Soon followed the flavors and recipes of all Europe, arriving with the Spanish to the New World. The 1860s era of Hapsburg Emperor Maximilian and his French wife, Charlotte, imposed a giddy 19th century French influence on our more rustic breads—with the advent of puff pastries, whipped cream fillings, and sticky glazes, the already extensive assortment of Mexican breads expanded even more.

    Conchas
    Tasty sugar-swirled conchas (shells) are ubiquitous throughout Mexico.  Take a good look at the curved form of the top of the concha and then look at the photo below.

    Concha Mold 1
    This is the baker's mold that makes the curved lines in the sugar topping.  Gently pressed into the sugar, it leaves its design.  I purchased two of these as a gift to my Mother; they hung in her kitchen until she passed away.  When my sister and I cleaned out her home, I brought them back to Mexico as a memory of her; since then, they have hung in my own kitchen.

    During the Mexican Revolution, soldiers from every region of Mexico came to know the foods of states far from their homes. When they returned to their own areas after the fighting, they took the recipes and flavors of other regions home with them. The south of Mexico incorporated northern bread recipes into its repertoire, the west took from the east, the north from the south.

    Today, most panaderías (bakeries) in Mexico prepare similar assortments of pan dulce, along with a sampling of their own regional specialties.

    Puerquitos
    Puerquitos (also called marranitos, little pigs, on the right) taste very much like gingerbread.

    It's been said that Mexico, of all the countries in the world, has the broadest and most delicious selection of breads. As a result of the mixture of cultures and regional flavors, today in Mexico you will find more than 2000 varieties of breads, and all will tempt your palate.

    Pan dulce is just one variety, but there are hundreds upon hundreds of different sub-varieties. The great mosaic of Mexican bread making, inventiveness, and creativity is such that every variety of pan dulce has a name, usually associated with its appearance. That's why you'll see names of animals, objects, and even people gracing the breads on bakery shelves. Puerquitos or marranitos (little pigs), moños o corbatas (bowties or neckties), ojo de buey (ox eye), canastas (baskets), conchas (shells), cuernitos (little horns), chinos (Chinese), polvorones (shortbread), hojaldre (puff paste), empanadas (turnovers), and espejos (mirrors): all are names of specific and very different sweet breads. 

    Nino_envuelto
    My all-time favorite name for a pan dulce is niño envuelto (it means "wrapped-up baby" and it looks for all the world like a slice of jellyroll).

    If you've never visited a Mexican bakery–a bakery where the breads are baked right on the premises–you have a real treat in store.  One of my favorite bakeries is owned by the Rojas Vargas family in Ajijic, Jalisco.  When the bolillos (crusty white rolls) come of the of the oven in the early mornings, and again when the roles (cinnamon rolls) are ready at about 12:30PM, you'll find lines of locals waiting to carry home a bag of hot, fresh goodies.  The Rojas family bakery used to be called "the secret bakery", because its only identifying sign was a tiny wood rectangle painted with the word "PAN", hanging from a nail on a house at the entrance to a dead-end alley–well, that and the incredible fragrance of baking bread, wafting down the street to lure you in.

    Hermanos Rojas Ajijic
    Meet the Rojas brothers, longtime bakers in Ajijic.  In the center of the photo is José Luis Rojas Vargas, who passed away in November 2020.  Way back when, the Rojas brothers ran the bakery and also had a trio called "Los Flamingos".  The old-time boleros they sang were as delicious as their bread.

    Panaderi?a Rojas Rollos de Canela
    The incredibly delicious cinnamon rolls made by the Rojas brothers.

    At the Rojas bakery, the bakers will help you select the breads you want. There are just a few bakers' shelves at Rojas, and the selection of items is usually small. Most of the breads are delivered to shops and stores shortly after they're taken from the ovens. Larger Mexican bakeries can be a little intimidating when you first push that front door open and enter a warm, fragrant world of unfamiliar sights and smells.

    Biscoches
    Unsweetened biscochos are very similar to biscuits.  Lately, most of these are being prepared with sugar as an ingredient.  I prefer them without, and I'm sorry to report that can't find those now.

    Coatepec Panaderi?a Resobada
    Panadería El Resobado in Coatepec, Veracruz, has been baking bread for over 130 years.  Truly, 130 years!  Two friends and I were there, at the recommendation of another friend, about three years ago.  We took our tongs and trays and gathered up bags and bags full of pan dulce, more sweet bread than we could have eaten in a week!  

    Coatepec Panaderi?a Resobada 6
    These are just the conchas at Panadería El Resobado–and just some of them, not all.  The multi-level shelves stretched across two long rooms.

    Baker Kitties Ladder Pamela 2
    Two of us sneaked into the back room at El Resobado–we thought we had heard a 'meow', and sure enough!   Cats!  These were only two of the several kitties who live in the back, near the ovens.

    Another recent bakery excursion was to Panadería Pan Bueno, located at Avenida Vallarta #5295 in Guadalajara. The owner, Sr. Roberto Cárdenas González, graciously allowed me to take photographs with the assistance of his employee, Edith Hernández González.

    Pan_bueno_entrada
    When you go inside Pan Bueno, take a minute to look around first to orient yourself. Right there by the door are the big metal trays and the tongs you need to gather up the breads you want to buy. With tray and tongs in hand, it's good to take a tour of the racks of pan dulce so you  can decide what you want.

    Mexican Wedding Cookies
    Polvorones de Nuez are an old standard Mexican recipe that many of you in English-speaking countries know as Mexican Wedding Cookies. They're easy to make and are absolutely melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Somehow they always manage to disappear first from any tray of assorted homemade cookies.  Photo courtesy tucson.com.  

    Polvorones de Nuez
    Mexican Wedding Cookies

    Preheat oven to 275ºF 

    Ingredients
    1 1/2 cups (3/4 pound) butter (room temperature)
    3/4 pound powdered sugar
    1 egg yolk
    1 teaspoon vanilla
    1/2 cup finely chopped almonds or pecans–or walnuts, or macadamia nuts
    3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

    Beat the butter until it is light and fluffy. Then beat in 2 tablespoons of the powdered sugar, the egg yolk, vanilla, and your choice of nuts. Gradually add the flour, beating after each addition to blend thoroughly. Pinch off pieces of dough the size of large walnuts and roll between your palms into round balls. Place the dough balls 1 1/2 inches apart on ungreased baking sheets. Flatten each ball very slightly.

    Bake in a 275 degree oven until very lightly browned (about 45 minutes). Remove from the oven and place the baking sheets on wire racks.  Allow to cool on the baking sheets until lukewarm.

    Sift half the remaining powdered sugar onto a large sheet of waxed paper. Roll each cookie gently but firmly in the sugar. Place cookies on wire racks over wax paper. Allow the cookies to cool completely and again dust generously with more powdered sugar.

    If you make these cookies ahead of need, store them in airtight containers, layered between sheets of waxed paper, for up to three days.

    Makes approximately three dozen cookies.

    Edith
    This is Edith, who walked with me to make the rounds of the bakery, I asked her if she knew the origin of any of the names for pan dulce. With a charming smile, she admitted that they were just traditional inventos—made up titles. When I asked her if she ever got tired of eating pan dulce, she shook her head emphatically. "Oh no, señora, we always love the pan"

    You will always love the pan as well. And now, if you'll excuse me, a slice of niño envuelto is calling to me from my kitchen. How could I have resisted buying a pan dulce or two as I made the bakery tour? All right, it was four—but who's counting?  

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Sopa Seca en México Parte Segunda: Pasta :: Dry Soup in Mexico, Part Two: Pasta

    Comida Corrida Quora
    Last week, we talked extensively about sopa seca de arroz–Mexican 'dry soup' made of rice.  Today, take a look at this menu from a fonda (a small, family-run restaurant) serving comida corrida in Mexico CityOn the day this complete meal was offered, it included your choice of sopa aguada (liquid soup, either almejas (clam shaped pasta) soup or cream of calabaza), sopa seca de arroz (rice) OR sopa seca de spaguetti, and your choice of one of the items listed in blue, everything from pollo entomatado (chicken in tomato sauce) to longaniza sausage (similar to Mexican chorizo) and nopales (cactus paddles) in a guajillo chile sauce to chilaquiles con huevo (with eggs), and a huge number of other dishes!

    Longaniza Mercado de Jamaica 31 de octubre 2018 1a
    A young butcher in Mexico City preparing longaniza.  See the casing, on the tube to the left of his left hand?  Book a tour with Mexico Cooks! and we can go watch him in person!

    Today the topic is sopa seca de pasta–"dry soup" made of some kind of Mexican pasta–anything from standard spaghetti to elbow macaroni to some tiny special pastas created just for sopas, whether liquid or dry.  Before I offer you a couple of recipes, here's a bit of the history of wheat (and pastas) in Mexico.

    A Bit of the History of Wheat in Mexico

    Like rice, wheat is not native to this country.  It’s commonly said that wheat arrived—in large quantities–when the Spanish first arrived in the so-called New World. History tells the story of wheat in a different way. Unlike rice, wheat arrived almost by accident in what is now Mexico. 

    The voyages from Europe to what came to be called the Americas were long and arduous, and almost all edible provisions were eaten and depleted prior to the ships’ arrival. Apparently the voyagers weren’t concerned about keeping a few seeds to sow if and when they arrived. For that reason, wheat came to what is now Mexico a little later and by accident.

    According to historians, three grains of wheat were found mixed into what was left of a 50 kilo (110 pound) bag of RICE, and were planted by a servant of Hernán Cortés. Just one of those three wheat grains germinated, and from that single plant, 180 grains of wheat were harvested and replanted. By 1534, only 13 years after the arrival of the Spanish, important harvests of wheat were being made near Texcoco and Puebla, in central Mexico.

    Communion Hosts Wheat
    The Spanish Jesuits subsequently carried wheat to the northern part of Mexico, where they taught the original peoples there to cultivate it, to harvest it, and to grind it into flour. The Spanish colonists were intent on converting the indigenous people to Catholicism, and according to Roman Catholic Canon Law (Canon 924, paragraph 2), pure wheat flour was then and continues to be required for the production of Communion hosts that were consumed by the Spanish colonists and by their indigenous converts. 

    The Spaniards also wanted the grain for the production of the white bread that they were accustomed to eating in Europe. That bread became a staple on the tables of the rich Spanish colonizers, while indigenous people continued to eat corn tortillas, as they had for thousands of years prior to the arrival of the Spanish.
    La Moderna Spaghetti 450gr
    A one-pound package of La Moderna brand durum wheat spaghetti.  The Mexican pasta company La Moderna, founded in 1920, today offers more than 40 pasta shapes just for sopas, whether liquid or dry, in the tiny forms of bowties, gears, alphabet letters, tongues (shaped like tear drops), BBs, lentils, fideos, snail shape, clam shape, crowns, stars, mushrooms, petticoats, tiny elbow, little eyes, little hats, feathers, spirals, screws, and more!  Packages of pasta for sopa weigh 200 grams and cost about 8 pesos (the equivalent in US dollars to about 40 cents). 200 grams of these pastas will feed about 3 to 4 people as the second course of a comida.  
    La Moderna Fideos 1
    Pasta de fideo, also made of durum wheat.  The size numbers of La Moderna fideo range from 0 (the thinnest) to 2 (the thickest).  In Mexico, the second-most popular sopa seca de pasta is fideo, short, straight, thin pieces of pasta.  Fideo is frequently also made into a liquid soup, caldo de fideo.  We'll get to that in a few paragraphs!  

    In today's Mexico, the most popular ways to prepare sopa seca de pasta are:
    1. Any shape pasta–especially fideo–cooked in caldillo, a thin red broth, until the broth is completely absorbed
    2. Cooked pasta stirred into a cream sauce or a creamy tomato sauce and sprinkled with cheese
    3. Hot spaghet
    ti or elbow macaroni with cream and diced ham
    4. Cold elbow macaroni salad
    La Moderna Municiones
    My personal favorite of the La Moderna line of tiny pastas: munición (literally, shot pellets) is the tiniest.  Munición is the size and shape of BBs!  

    Very few nineteenth century post-independence Mexican culinary records include the consumption of various types of pasta: ravioles, macarrones (long noodles), and tallarines (long, flat noodles).  Unless these were made in private homes, immigrants from countries where they were typically eaten brought them to Mexico.  At the time of the Porfiriato (1876-1910), many things here were "Frenchified", as Porfirio Díaz was a francophile through and through.  Italian-type pastas gave way to the French kitchen of elite, wealthy Mexicans. 

    Mexico Cooks! owns a reprinted Mexican cookbook, originally published in 1910, and has spent considerable time studying the recipes.  That cookbook unfortunately offers no reference to pasta of any kind.

    La Moderna was the first commercial pasta made in Mexico; its factory opened in 1920.  There are are other pasta manufacturers in today’s Mexico, most notably La Italiana, with a factory in Puebla, founded also in 1920.  La Italiana produces Italpasta for the Mexican market as does Golden Foods, located in Celaya, Guanajuato. In addition, foreign pasta makers have come to the Mexican market, particularly Barilla, which arrived in Mexico in 2003 and has its Mexico factory in San Luis Potosí. Barilla Mexico caters to the local market with both long and short pasta, plus five tiny pasta shapes specifically for preparing sopa seca.

    La Moderna Codos 1
    La Moderna tiny coditos–wee elbow macaroni.  These are size 1, the smallest made.  Each little elbow measures about 1/2 inch long.

    Forty-six percent of Mexico’s pasta is eaten at comida (Mexico's main meal of the day, eaten at mid-afternoon), either as a sopa seca or as a main dish. That’s 10 times more than we eat for supper, which is traditionally a lighter meal.  The three most-eaten pastas in Mexico are spaghetti (generally spelled espagueti, according to the rules of Spanish pronunciation) at 29%, fideos, 24%, and coditos (all sizes of elbow macaroni from the tiniest ones to the largest), 15%–of the average family consumption of 12.7 kilos of pasta per year.  That's about half the consumption of Italy, pretty amazing.

    Are you ready for some recipes?  I am, let's get cooking!

    Caldo de fideos

    My favorite recipe for sopa seca de fideos is:

    Sopa Seca (Dry Soup) of Fideos
    1. 1 pound fresh ripe tomatoes, chopped
    2. 1/4 of a medium-size onion, chopped
    3. 1 large garlic clove
    4. 1 chipotle chile en adobo (La Morena canned chiles, if you can find them.  Otherwise buy a brand that's readily available.)

    1.5 TBSP vegetable oil
    1 200gr (7.5 oz) package of fine fideo pasta.  If you can't find any brand of fideos, use broken-up angel hair pasta instead.
    1.5 cups chicken broth
    1/2 tsp oregano
    Salt to taste
    ___________________________

    Blend the first 4 ingredients in your blender until they are in small pieces, then add 1 cup of chicken broth and blend until the sauce is smooth.

    Heat the oil in a medium-size skillet and then add the fideos. Fry until lightly browned, stirring often to avoid burning them. This step will take about 2-3 minutes. Remove the fideos from the skillet and reserve.

    Add the caldillo, 1/2 cup of broth, oregano, and salt to taste to the skillet. Turn the heat up to bring to a boil (about 5 minutes). Once the sauce starts boiling, add the noodles, reduce heat to very low, and cover the skillet to let simmer.

    Keep cooking for about 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally as needed until noodles are cooked and tender. If the sauce still seems too liquid when the fideos are cooked through, simply remove the skillet from the heat and set aside for 5 minutes. This will allow the fideos to absorb the remaining liquid from the sauce.

    Serve either family-style in a medium-size bowl or on individual small plates.  Top with Mexican table cream or sour cream, crumbled sharp, dry white cheese and slices of just-ripe avocado.

    Serves 4.
    _________________________________________

    Fideos Dorados
    The fideos, fried to a golden brown.  This pasta is about an inch long and as thin as angel hair.

    Caldo de Fideos

    1 pound fresh ripe tomatoes, chopped
    1/4 of a medium-size onion, chopped
    2 large garlic cloves
    1 cup water
    Salt to taste
    6 cups chicken broth, either home-made or purchased. I like Knorr, the broth in tetrapak, if you need to buy broth.
    7.5 oz package of fideos 
    2 TBSP vegetable oil
    3 sprigs fresh parsley

    Put the tomato, onion, garlic and water into your blender jar and liquefy. When the tomato sauce is smooth, set it aside until you are ready to use it.

    Put the lard or vegetable oil in a deep pot. Heat until it shimmers and add all of the fideos at once. Stir constantly over medium heat until the fideos take on a golden-brown color.

    Pour the reserved tomato sauce through a wire strainer directly into the pot with the browned fideos. Allow to simmer (covered) on low to medium heat for about 5-10 minutes.

    Uncover and add the parsley sprigs to the pot of simmering soup. Replace the cover and simmer for another 20 minutes.

    Serves 4

    Caldo de fideos
    This soup is delicious as a first course for a midday meal or for the main course of a light lunch.  Photo courtesy Mexico10.org.

    Serves 4 to 6.
    _________________________________________

    Sopa de Tiritas Just Tiritas 1a
    Strips of corn tortillas, fried to a crisp golden brown.  I confess that I bought them already prepared!  

    And now for something completely different!  This recipe, which I found recently, is for a sopa seca de tiritas de tortilla (thin, fried corn tortilla strips).  It's not pasta, and it's not rice, and it is delicious!  I particularly like the addition of hierbabuena (fresh mint) to the caldillo.  Combined with the tomato broth and the corn tortilla strips, the flavors give you a big bang as a side dish or second course at your meal.

    Sopa Seca de Tiritas de Tortillas de Maíz con Menta

    Utensils you will need
    A deep, heavy, covered frying pan
    A large wooden spoon

    Colegio Culinario Hierbabuena
    Beautifully fresh home-grown hierbabuena (mint).

    Ingredients
    3-4 Tbsp freshly rendered lard or vegetable oil
    1 medium-size onion, cut into half-moons
    2 finely chopped tomatoes
    3 cups beef broth, either home-made or purchased
    6 big sprigs of fresh mint–leaves only, finely chopped
    Approximately half a pound of fried, thin tortilla strips
    Salt to taste
    1/2 cup aged white cheese, grated.  Look for Cotija-style cheese in your grocer's dairy case.

    Jitomate 1a
    Fresh Roma tomatoes, ripe and delicious

    Procedure  
    In a heavy skillet, heat the fat that you choose until it shimmers.  Add the onion and sauté, stirring constantly, until it is translucent and slightly yellowish.  Add the tomato and continue to cook until the tomato becomes soft and the majority of its juices have evaporated.

    Add the beef broth and the finely chopped mint leaves and allow to simmer for several minutes, until the flavors have incorporated into the onion/tomato mix.  Taste and add salt as necessary.

    Sopa de Tiritas en Caldillo
    Add the fried corn tortilla strips and simmer until all the liquid has been absorbed, approximately 5 minutes.

    Serve on individual small plate, topped with grated cheese, or serve family style on a platter and pass the cheese around to sprinkle thickly on each serving.

    Sopa de Tiritas Queso Cotija
    Finely chopped queso Cotija (Cotija cheese), ready to top your sopa seca de tiritas.

    Serves 4.

    Provecho!  I hope you enjoy these truly home-style Mexican recipes.  I look forward to seeing your comments.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Sopa Seca en México Parte Primera: Arroz :: “Dry Soup” in Mexico Part One: Rice

    El Portalito Interior
    El Portalito, a typical but larger-than-average fonda in Colonia La Condesa, Mexico City.  Mexico Cooks! was a frequent customer for the comida corrida it served prior to the massive earthquake in 2017, after which the restaurant closed permanently due to severe damage to its building.

    A multi-course Mexican comida, the main meal of the day, is normally served in Central Mexico sometime between 2:00 and 3:00PM. Either at home or in a fonda (a small, no-frills family-run restaurant), what you might be offered is called comida corrida: a multi-course meal much different from what one sees as "Mexican food" in the USA or other countries.

    El Portalito Caldo Tlalpen?o
    This sopa aguada is caldo Tlalpeño, rich, delicious chicken broth loaded with fresh vegetables and garbanzo beans.  The sopa seca de arroz (second course) was served at the same time as the first course; you can see the small plateful of arroz rojo at the left in the photo.  Typically, the diner puts several heaping soup spoons of rice in the soup bowl.  This fonda served sliced telera (at the right in the photo, a kind of white roll) rather than tortillas.

    Let’s start with the meal’s first course: soup—known in Mexico as sopa aguada (liquid soup). A liquid soup can be chicken consomé, caldo de pollo, or a cream soup. It might be tomato broth with macaroni, lentil soup, or cream of chile poblano—the selection is infinite.  The caldo Tlalpeño in the photo above is just one example.

    The second course is sopa seca—which literally means “dry soup”. Wait, what? Dry soup?  Give me a minute and I'll explain…

    The various courses go on from there, to your main dish and dessert, and then some!

    Okay, so:

    WHAT THE HECK IS SOPA SECA?

    Sopa seca—so-called "dry soup"—is the reason I was recently invited to participate in a conversation with my dear friend Zarela Martínez and her son Aarón Sánchez, both of whom are serious movers and shakers in the world of Mexican food that's based in the United States.  When that podcast is available online, I will post a link to it on Mexico Cooks!.  We all had a really good time talking to one another about home-style "dry soup" and I am so tickled and grateful to have been invited to talk with the two of them.

    When I talk about sopa seca with foreigners who aren’t familiar with it, they don’t believe me. People say, “'Dry soup' sounds like an oxymoron.  There IS no such thing!” But there issopa seca apparently came into being during the late 19th century, during the Mexican presidency/dictatorship (1876-1910) of Porfirio Díaz, and reached immense national popularity by the 1940s-1950s. Today, sopa seca is a culinary institution unique to Mexico.

    Sops Seca Arroz Rojo Lista
    Voilà–in the photo above you see sopa seca de arroz rojo ("dry soup", aka Mexican red rice).  I prepared this one with a little bit of minced chile serrano and fresh kernels of corn scraped from the cob).  You can also add diced fresh carrots, fresh or frozen peas, and a whole or minced chile serrano, if you like picante (spiciness).

    As the second course of your midday meal, sopa seca opens your appetite for what’s to come. Your sopa seca could be a small plate of arroz a la mexicana (rice, browned to golden in freshly rendered lard or oil and cooked in caldillo (a very thin tomato broth), or it could be a pasta dish; we'll read more about sopa seca de pasta next week here at Mexico Cooks!.  

    A Very Brief History of Rice in Mexico

    Rice is not native to Mexico, although about 20% of the rice we eat here is cultivated in several Mexican states.  The rest is imported from the United States or other countries.

    Judith Carney Black Rice 1
    According to Judith Carney, dean of Black rice in the Americas, rice came with Spanish invaders from the Senegal/Gambia Muslim regions of Africa, by way of the African Diaspora–in the holds of slave ships–beginning in the first quarter of the 16th century, 500 years ago. In 1522 it is documented that Hernán Cortés brought rice seed to Coyoacán from the port of Veracruz; in 1559 Champotón in the Yucatán was exporting rice “20 years after its establishment” there, and in 1579, both rice and millet were being grown in Sant María de la Victoria, Tabasco. Citation: Judith Carney, Dean of Black Rice in the Americas, Africana Studies, February 2011.

    However, other sources state that the Moors introduced rice to Spain starting in about 700AD, during their conquest of Spain; then to Italy in the 15th century, then to France, and then to post-Spanish-invasion lands, on all continents. The early conflict between the Moors and the Spanish Christians is immortalized in the traditional Cuban dish “Moors and Christians”—in which black beans play the Moors and white rice represents the Spanish, the two brought together and blended in both history and on a plate.

    Yet another theory reports that rice is a grain from Eastern Asia brought to Mexico from the Philippines at the start of the colonial period.  There are various ways to prepare rice such as: white; red; black; yellow; Puebla style; jardinière; and a la tumbada (Veracruz style) rice. Rice is used also to accompany different stews, roasts, mole-sauces, and adobo-sauces. The proper cooking point, texture, and consistency is a true controversy among different families and regions. In Southeast Mexico, rice is made mainly white to accompany the main dish of the meal. In Mexico City and other parts of central Mexico rice is usually cooked red [with tomatoes] and is served as a dry soup after the sopa aguada (broth-y soup), and before the main dish. It is common to top rice with a fried egg, or slices of fresh banana, or even mole. This seems highly logical, but another source says that until 1802 the Spanish considered rice to be a pagan cereal unfit for Christian consumption—almost 300 years after first contact!  

    It seems reasonable to believe both theories: the Mexican ports on the Pacific coast are a very long way from the ports on the Atlantic coast, and both Hernán Cortés and the Nao de China (the Spanish galleon) could easily have brought rice to the coasts of the "New World".  Today, rice is the third-most-consumed grain in Mexico, superseded only by corn and wheat.  Courtesy agrosintesis.com.

    Now for today's recipes!  Here's how Mexico Cooks! prepares caldillo and sopa seca de arroz.

    Sopa de Arroz Ingredientes Close Up 1
    Ingredients for the caldillo.

    Utensils for Caldillo
    Blender

    3 or 4 large red, completely ripe Roma tomatoes, coarsely chopped
    1/4 large white onion, coarsely chopped
    A piece of chile serrano about 1/2" long, more if you want your tomato broth to be spicy.
    About a cup of chicken broth or water
    Salt to taste

    Method of preparation for the Caldillo
    Put the chicken broth or water into your blender jar.  Add the tomatoes, the onion, and the piece of chile.  Blend until very smooth.  Once it's very smooth, add chicken broth until the caldillo is fairly thin.  Simmer the caldillo (with the pot lid ajar) until some of the liquid evaporates and the flavors have blended, about 15 minutes over a very low flame.
    ___________________________________–

    Utensils for Sopa Seca de Arroz
    A heavy pot with a cover, the pot preferably wider than it is deep, that will hold all of the ingredients in the recipe
    A wooden spoon

    Ingredients
    1 whole chile serrano, split from the tip almost to the stem end (optional)
    3 Tbsp freshly rendered pork lard (or vegetable oil)  
    1 or 2 cloves of garlic (optional–I'm not crazy about garlic in the rice, but many love it)
    1.5 cups raw white rice, washed in running water, drained, and allowed to dry
    All of the kernels cut from an ear of fresh yellow corn
    2 cups caldillo
    1 cup chicken broth
    A few sprigs of fresh cilantro, stems and all, washed
    Salt to taste

    Tip to the wise: if you see a brick-sized block of snow white, hydrogenated pork lard in your butcher's refrigerator case, run the other way.  You can buy freshly rendered pork lard at a Mexican food store near you. 

    Method of Preparation    

    Arroz Buenavista Package 1
    The rice that I use is Buenavista, grown in the state of Morelos, Mexico and available here and in some other places.  I know people who come for a visit to Mexico and take a few kilos back home with them, it's that good.  In my opinion, this is the best rice in the world for use in Mexican cooking.  The grain is large, it cooks to a delicious flavor and mouth-feel, and I love using a rice that's grown in this country. 

    Sopa de Arroz Arroz Crudo 1 
    Raw white rice, washed, drained, and dried.  It's toasting in melted lard in an old Chantal enamel-on-steel casserole, and that's my favorite wooden spoon. Put the fat you are using in the pot and bring to a shimmer.  You don't want it to smoke.  Add chile serrano, if you are using it; allow it to blacken.  Add the garlic, if you are using it, and allow the cloves to soften.   Then add the washed and dried rice, stirring constantly over medium heat until the grains of rice are toasted to a golden brown and "sound like sand" as you stir them in the bottom of the pot.  Thanks, Chef Rick Bayless, for that perfect description of the sound! 

    It's easy to burn rice, so keep your eye on it and don't stop stirring.  

    Sopa de Arroz Arroz Tostado 1
    When the rice is browned to golden, add the caldillo to the rice pot and bring to a full rolling boil. 

    Sopa de Arroz Ingredientes Blended 1
    As soon as it reaches the boiling point, immediately lower the heat to a simmer, add the fresh corn kernels, salt to taste, add fresh cilantro, stir once to combine with the rice, cover the rice pot and allow to simmer (not boil) until all of the liquid is absorbed.  I live at high altitude (6500 feet above sea level), so it takes about 20-23 minutes to cook rice.  Set your timer to 20 minutes and peek into the pot to see how the rice is coming along.  You need to keep checking, the cooking time might be different at your altitude.  At NO TIME should you stir the rice; stirring breaks the grains and you want the rice grains to remain intact.  When you see that the rice is done, keep the pot covered, turn off the fire and allow the rice to sit for a few minutes.  Take the top off the pot, give the rice a quick stir, and serve.

    Sopa de Arroz Caldillo Cooking 1
    The rice and caldillo are almost to a full rolling boil.  

    Sopa de Arroz Elote Cortado 1
    Fresh corn kernels added to the rice/caldillo mixture.  Give this mixture one good stir, cover the pot, turn the flame down to a low simmer, and don't touch it again till it's done.

    Sops Seca Arroz Rojo Lista
    Here once again is the first photo, Mexican sopa seca de arroz rojo, ready to serve.  When you taste it, you'll taste a touch of toasted flavor, some tomato, a hint of cilantro: everything fresh, everything healthy–even the lard is healthy, should you choose to use lard.  It's always my first choice for a savory fat.  

    Cooking time: 20-23 minutes

    Serves: approximately 6

    Provecho! (Good appetite!)

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  • Mexico’s Most Popular Drink :: The Michelada, Perfect for Midsummer!

    Michelada 1
    A perfect michelada, rimmed with Tajín and topped with crunchy fresh cucumber.  Spicy, salty, beery, umami-rich, and completely refreshing.

    Here in Mexico–everywhere in Mexico!–the single most popular beer drink is the michelada. Its ingredients, always based on beer, depend on the bartender, the part of the country one is in, or on one's personal taste.  A michelada is an any-time, any-season drink.

    We see fútbol (soccer) stadiums full of people slugging down liters of stadium-prepared micheladas, parties at home where no other alcoholic beverage is served, and restaurant tables full of people slurping them down along with their barbacoacarne asada, or pozole–or accompanying a hamburger and fries, or a salad.  The michelada goes with just about any sort of food.  Popular wisdom also knows it as a super hangover cure, so hey–beer for breakfast in your hour of need?  Why not, just this once?

    Michelada Corona
    The primary ingredient of any michelada is beer.  Most people prefer a light-colored lager, but once in a while someone will order a michelada made with dark beer. Corona is just one option; any light-colored lager will do. First and foremost is to use the lager you prefer: Corona, Pacifico, Modelo, or any other. And your beer doesn't even have to be made in Mexico; use whatever country's beer you like best. Photo courtesy Corona.

    The seasonings in a michelada typically include either Clamato, V8, or plain tomato juice, plus Worcestershire sauce, a very hot bottled salsa like Valentina, Cholula, Yucateca, or any of dozens on the grocer's shelf, salt—lots of salt—powdered chile, the umami-heavy seasoning liquid called Maggi, and freshly-squeezed jugo de limón (the juice of a Key lime). 

    Michelada Tajin
    Rim a frosted pint mug or glass with powdered Tajín (a commercial mix of powdered dry chile, limón flavoring, and salt).  You can find Tajín in almost any supermarket. There are imitators, but if you can find Tajín, it's the best.  Photo courtesy Tajín. 

    Tip to the wise: to evenly rim a glass: put a generous quantity of Tajín in a saucer.  In another saucer, put about 1/4 cup of water or jugo de limón (Key lime) Holding your mug or glass upside down and level, dip its opening just a bit into the water, then into the Tajín.  Voilà!

    Campbell's Tomato Juice 64 oz 1

    Campbell's tomato juice contains tomato juice from concentrate, potassium chloride, ascorbic acid, citric acid, salt, malic acid, and other flavorings.  Photo courtesy Campbell's.

    Michelada clamato
    Clamato contains water, tomato concentrate, high fructose corn syrup, MSG, salt, citric acid, onion powder, celery seed, garlic powder, dried clam broth, unspecified spices, vinegar, natural flavors, food coloring, and ascorbic acid to maintain color.  Photo courtesy Clamato.

    Now add the rest of the ingredients.  Here's a recipe to get you started; experiment with micheladas till the flavor blend is exactly the way you like it.

    Micheladas a la mexicana

    • light-colored lager beer of your choice
    • Clamato, V8, or tomato juice
    • 3 or 4 splashes hot sauce, more or less to taste.  Try Valentina, or Cholula, or use your favorite.
    • 2 splashes of Worcestershire sauce
    • 2 splashes of Maggi sauce 
    • Juice of one lime

      Fill the glass about ¼ to ? with the V8, tomato, or Clamato juice. Add the hot sauce, the lime juice, the Worcestershire sauce, and the soy sauce. If you used Tajín to salt the rim, pour any excess from the plate into the glass.  Fill the rest with cold beer and top off your micheladas with sticks of celery or jícama, skewers of shrimp or olives, half-moons of cucumber, freshly-cooked octopus–really, anything within the limits of your imagination.  And for good measure, add another splash of Maggi. 

    Michelada Worcestershire Sauce
    In the United States, the ingredients in Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce are: distilled white vinegar, molasses, sugar, water, salt, onions, anchovies, garlic, cloves, tamarind extract, natural flavorings, and chili pepper extract.  Anchovies–did you know that?  Photo courtesy Lee & Perrins.

    Michelada Valentina--4-Lt
    Valentina is arguably Mexico's best-known bottled salsa. The photo shows the four liter bottle–nearly a gallon! That size should keep you in micheladas for quite a while. If you'd prefer a smaller bottle, you can buy Valentina, either hot or extra-hot, in a 12.5 ounce size.  The ingredients are water, chile peppers, vinegar, salt, spices and sodium benzoate (as a preservative). The taste can be described as a citrus flavor, with a nicely spicy aftertaste. Photo courtesy Valentina.

    Michelada Maggi
    If you're not already using Maggi for cooking, look for it until you find it for your micheladas.  Of Swiss origin, Maggi is ubiquitous, literally a global phenomenon, used all over the world to add an extra touch of taste to savory recipes.  It's indispensable in a michelada, bringing the utmost in umami to the drink.  Your micheladas will be pale in flavor without it.  The ingredients of Maggi vary by country; if you have an MSG sensitivity, be sure to look for that in the ingredients list.  Some countries' Maggi have it, some don't.  Photo courtesy Maggi.

    Michelada V8
    V8 Original juice contains a blend of reconstituted vegetable juices including tomatoes, carrots, celery, beets, parsley, lettuce, watercress, and spinach, plus a tiny percentage of salt, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and natural flavoring. Photo courtesy V8. <

    Now add the rest of the ingredients.  Here's a recipe to get you started; experiment with micheladas till the flavor blend is exactly the way you like it.

    Micheladas a la mexicana

    • light-colored lager beer of your choice
    • Clamato or V8 or tomato juice
    • 3 or 4 splashes hot sauce, more or less to taste.  Try Valentina, or Cholula, or use your favorite.
    • 2 splashes of Worcestershire sauce
    • 2 splashes of Maggi sauce 
    • Soy sauce to taste.
    • Juice of one limón (Key lime)

      Fill the glass about ¼ to ? with the Clamato juice. Add the hot sauce, the lime juice, the Worcestershire sauce, and the soy sauce. If you used Tajín to salt the rim, pour any excess from the plate into the glass.  Fill the rest with cold beer and top off your micheladas with sticks of celery or jícama, skewers of shrimp or olives, half-moons of cucumber, freshly-cooked octopus–really, anything within the limits of your imagination.  And for good measure, add another splash of Maggi. 

    Limo?n criollo
    Finally, the taste of freshly squeezed jugo de limón (juice from the key lime) will brighten up your michelada in a way that regular lime juice won't.  You'll find limones in many supermarkets and Latin specialty markets.  The juice of one limón per liter of michelada is the ratio you want.  Mexico Cooks! photo. 

    The name michelada is said to be made of three words: 'mi' (my) 'chela' (a popular nickname for any beer) and 'helada' (icy cold). How many micheladas are consumed in Mexico every year?  Untold millions!  Do your part this summer to keep the numbers up!

    Salud!  (To your health!)

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  • Chiles Rellenos en Nogada, El Rey de los Chiles :: Stuffed Chiles in Walnut Sauce, The King of Chiles

    Chile en Nogada Fonda Fina Aug 21 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada (chile poblano stuffed with a seasonal filling and topped with fresh walnut sauce, chopped parsley, walnut meats, and pomegranates), as served by chef Juan Cabrera Barron at Fonda Fina, Mexico City, August 21, 2017.

    Freshly Cut Walnuts Chile en Nogada
    Freshly harvested nuez de castilla (walnuts), an essential for seasonal chiles en nogada.  Photo courtesy El Sol de Puebla.

    Mexico celebrates its independence during the entire month of September with parades, parties, and traditional food and drink, served in restaurants and at home.  The traditional festive dish served beginning in July and throughout the weeks just before and after the Independence Day holiday is chiles en nogada, a magnificent tribute to the seasonal availability of a certain kind of peach, the locally grown panochera apple, in-season granadas (pomegranates) and nuez de castilla (freshly harvested walnuts). From mid-July until early October, seasonal local fruits, fresh pomegranates, and newly harvested walnuts make chiles en nogada possible.  Mildly spicy chiles poblano, stuffed with picadillo and topped with richly creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, flaunt the brilliant green, white and red of the Mexican flag. 

    Manzana panochera y pera lechera
    The panochera apple, grown in the Mexican state of Puebla, and pera lechera (milky pear), also grown in the area, are two must-have ingredients for making chiles en nogada in Mexico.  If you live outside Mexico, small crisp apples and very crisp pears (Bosque or d'Anjou) would substitute.

    This festive dish is traditionally served on September 15 or 16 in honor of Mexico's Independence Day, though it is popular anytime from late July through October. During late July, August and September in the highlands of Mexico, particularly in Mexico City and Puebla, vendors wander tianguis (street markets) and other markets, selling the clean, white meats of nuez de castilla. It is important to use the freshest walnuts possible, as they produce such a creamy, rich sauce that it is worth the effort to buy them peeled or peel them oneself.  Yes, the recipe is time-consuming…but you and your guests will jump up and shout "VIVA!" when you've licked the platters clean. 

    Ingredients

    For the meat:  

    • 2 pounds beef brisket or other stew meat or 1 pound ground beef and 1 pound ground pork 
    • 1 small white onion, quartered 
    • 2 large cloves garlic 
    • about 1 Tbsp sea salt

     For the picadillo (filling):  

    • 4 Tbsp safflower or canola oil
    • the shredded or ground meats
    • 1/3 cup chopped white onion
    • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
    • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • 1/8 tsp ground cloves
    • 3 heaping Tbsp raisins
    • 1 or 2 chiles serrano, finely minced
    • 4 Tbsp chopped fresh walnuts 
    • 4 Tbsp slivered blanched almonds (optional)
    • 2 Tbsp finely diced biznaga (candied cactus, optional)
    • 1 fresh pear, peeled and chopped
    • 1 apple, peeled and chopped
    • 4 ripe peaches, peeled and diced
    • 3 Tbsp Mexican pink pine nuts.  Substitute white if you aren't able to find pink.
    • 3 large, ripe tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
    • sea salt to taste

    Flaneur Chiles Poblanos Rojos Tehuaca?n 2016
    Fully mature chiles poblano, picked fresh in Tehuacán, Puebla.  

    Rajas Chiles Asados y Pelados
    Green chiles poblano are normally used for chiles en nogada.  These have been roasted and peeled and are ready for stuffing.

    For the chiles:

    –6 fresh chiles poblanos, roasted, peeled, slit open, and seeded, leaving the stem intact   

     For the nogada (walnut sauce):  

    • 1 cup fresh walnuts 
    • 6 ounces queso de cabra (goat cheese), queso doble crema or standard cream cheese (not fat free) at room temperature 
    • 1-1/2 cups crema mexicana or 1-1/4 cups sour cream thinned with milk 
    • about 1/2 tsp sea salt or to taste
    • 1 Tbsp sugar   
    • 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 cup dry sherry (optional)

    Pomegranate
    Remove the arils (seeds) from a pomegranate.  We who live in Mexico are fortunate to find pomegranate seeds ready to use, sold in plastic cups.

    For the garnish 

    –1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
    –1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds 

    Preparation:

    Cut the meat into large chunks, removing any excess fat. Place the meat into a large Dutch oven with the onion, garlic, and salt. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that collects on the surface. Lower the heat and allow the water to simmer about 45 minutes, until the meat is just tender. Take the pot off the stove and let the meat cool in the broth. Remove the pieces of meat and finely shred them. 

    If you are using ground meats, the above step is unnecessary.  Simple brown the ground meats and then add the rest of the ingredients under the heading "picadillo" (above).

    Biznaga cristalizada
    Candied biznaga cactus.  Do try to find this ingredient in your local market.  There isn't an adequate substitute, so if you don't find it, leave it out.

    Warm the oil in a large, heavy skillet and sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat until they turn a pale gold. Stir in the shredded meat and cook for five minutes. Add the cinnamon, pepper, and cloves, then, stir in the raisins, the two tablespoons of chopped walnuts. Add the chopped pear, apple, biznaga, and mix well. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste, and continue cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture has evaporated. Stir often so that the mixture doesn't stick. Let cool, cover, and set aside. The picadillo may be made a day or two in advance.

    Chiles en Nogada
    Beautifully home-prepared chiles en nogada, as presented several years ago at a traditional food exhibition in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.

    Make a slit down the side of each chile, just long enough to remove the seeds and veins. Keep the stem end intact. Drain the chiles, cut side down, on paper towels until completely dry. Cover and set aside. The chiles may be prepared a day in advance. 

    At least three hours in advance, put the walnuts in a small pan of boiling water. Remove from the heat and let them sit for five minutes. Drain the nuts and, when cool, rub off as much of the dark skin as possible. into small pieces. Place the nuts, cream cheese, crema, and salt in a blender and purée thoroughly. Stir in the optional sugar, cinnamon, and sherry until thoroughly combined. Chill for several hours. 

    Preheat the oven to 250ºF. When ready to serve, reheat the meat filling and stuff the chiles until they are plump and just barely closed. Put the filled chiles, covered, to warm slightly in the oven. After they are heated through, place the chiles (cut side down) on a serving platter or on individual plates, cover with the chilled walnut sauce, and sprinkle with the chopped parsley and pomegranate seeds. 

    Azul Histo?rico Chile en Nogada
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Azul Histórico, Mexico City.

    Chile en Nogada PdeH Aug 13 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Pasillo de Humo, Mexico City.

    This dish may be served at room temperature, or it may be served chilled. It is rarely if ever served hot. 

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