Category: Mexican Tourism

  • Long Live Independence in Mexico :: Qué Viva La Independencia Mexicana!

    Hidalgo con Estandar
    Padre Miguel Hidalgo, whose 1810 cry for freedom from Spain set in motion the fight for what is now Mexico's independence.  His original estandarte (banner) bearing a likeness of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe) is part of Mexico's historic patrimony.

    Mexico's struggle for freedom from Spanish colonization began in earnest sometime between midnight and dawn on September 16, 1810, when Father Miguel Hidalgo stood up with the estandarte to shout out the Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores–"Dolores" being the name of the town known today as Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato.  The grito precedes the parades of school children and military battalions, politicians proclaiming speeches, and general festivity.  In normal times–prior to COVID-19–Mexico has always celebrated its Fiestas Patrias (Patriotic Holidays) on September 16, with enormous energy.  Last year (2020) and this year will be much more subdued.

    Crucero Banderas
    Flag sellers' carts blossom all over Mexico for a month or so prior to Independence Day.  I usually go take a look at what the latest souvenir is, and if I need to replace the little Mexican flag on my desk, this is the time to do that.

    Grito Bandera Mexicana Chica
    The little Mexican flag on my desk.  I think it will last another year, if the cats don't try to chew on it!  This wee flag measures about six inches long and three inches high.

    Hundreds of books have been written about Mexico's break from Spain, millions of words have been dedicated to exploring the lives of the daring men and women who knew, a bare 200 years ago, that the time had come for freedom.  You can read some of the history on the Internet.  Another excellent source for Mexican history is The Life and Times of Mexico, by Earl Shorris.  You'll find that highly readable book available on the left-hand side of this page.  Just click on the book cover to order it from Amazon. 

    Bandera Monumental Morelia
    This bandera monumental (monumentally-sized Mexican national flag) waves over one of the highest points in the city of Morelia.  In 1999, former Mexican president Ernesto Zedillo Ponce de León initiated the program of oversize flags made to fly over some of Mexico's historic cities.  These enormous flags generally measure more than 14 meters high by 25 meters long and fly from 50-meter-high flagpoles.

    Balcón del Grito Zócalo
    The balcony of Mexico City's Palacio del Gobierno (government office building).  On the night of September 15, President Andrés Manuel López Obrador will stand on the balcony to give the annual grito (shout) that is said to replicate Padre Hidalgo's rallying cry for independence.  In every Mexican town, no matter its size, the elected official will also give the grito during that night.

    Grito
    The Palacio de Gobierno in Morelia, Michoacán, all dressed up on September 15, 2020, ready for the Grito.  In the center of the facade is the balcony from which the Grito is proclaimed by the governor.

    Zocalo-cd-mexico-y-catedral
    Mexico City's metropolitan cathedral and the zócalo (main square) with its bandera monumental, perfect for Independence Day festivities.  The 2021 verbena patria (patriotic festivity) in the nation's capital promises to be low key, in keeping with protection from COVID-19.

    In Morelia, considered to be the cradle of independence–it was in this city, then called Vallodolid, that the pro-independence conspiracy was developed in 1809–the budget is supposed to be 28.5 million pesos (a bit over two million United States dollars).  Many Michoacanos are thrilled with the Fiestas Patrias party plans, while many others are outraged at this huge expenditure that comes at a time when Mexico is suffering not only an economic but a political and psychological crisis.

    Kiosko 16 de septiembre
    A tiny kiosko (bandstand) in a small-town plaza in the state of Jalisco, decorated for its Fiestas Patrias.

    Today, Mexico is as it has always been: a country of profound contrasts.  Life parties with death in 2021 just as much as it did in 1810.  The road behind us and before us is littered with confetti and spent shell casings.  Our continuing task is to find la ruta a la independencia (the path to independence).

    PosadaCalaveria
    José Guadalupe Posada (1851-1913), La Calavería. I suspect these esqueletitos (little skeletons) are celebrating their independence!

    Viva México!  Qué viva!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Sopa Seca en México Parte Segunda: Pasta :: Dry Soup in Mexico, Part Two: Pasta

    Comida Corrida Quora
    Last week, we talked extensively about sopa seca de arroz–Mexican 'dry soup' made of rice.  Today, take a look at this menu from a fonda (a small, family-run restaurant) serving comida corrida in Mexico CityOn the day this complete meal was offered, it included your choice of sopa aguada (liquid soup, either almejas (clam shaped pasta) soup or cream of calabaza), sopa seca de arroz (rice) OR sopa seca de spaguetti, and your choice of one of the items listed in blue, everything from pollo entomatado (chicken in tomato sauce) to longaniza sausage (similar to Mexican chorizo) and nopales (cactus paddles) in a guajillo chile sauce to chilaquiles con huevo (with eggs), and a huge number of other dishes!

    Longaniza Mercado de Jamaica 31 de octubre 2018 1a
    A young butcher in Mexico City preparing longaniza.  See the casing, on the tube to the left of his left hand?  Book a tour with Mexico Cooks! and we can go watch him in person!

    Today the topic is sopa seca de pasta–"dry soup" made of some kind of Mexican pasta–anything from standard spaghetti to elbow macaroni to some tiny special pastas created just for sopas, whether liquid or dry.  Before I offer you a couple of recipes, here's a bit of the history of wheat (and pastas) in Mexico.

    A Bit of the History of Wheat in Mexico

    Like rice, wheat is not native to this country.  It’s commonly said that wheat arrived—in large quantities–when the Spanish first arrived in the so-called New World. History tells the story of wheat in a different way. Unlike rice, wheat arrived almost by accident in what is now Mexico. 

    The voyages from Europe to what came to be called the Americas were long and arduous, and almost all edible provisions were eaten and depleted prior to the ships’ arrival. Apparently the voyagers weren’t concerned about keeping a few seeds to sow if and when they arrived. For that reason, wheat came to what is now Mexico a little later and by accident.

    According to historians, three grains of wheat were found mixed into what was left of a 50 kilo (110 pound) bag of RICE, and were planted by a servant of Hernán Cortés. Just one of those three wheat grains germinated, and from that single plant, 180 grains of wheat were harvested and replanted. By 1534, only 13 years after the arrival of the Spanish, important harvests of wheat were being made near Texcoco and Puebla, in central Mexico.

    Communion Hosts Wheat
    The Spanish Jesuits subsequently carried wheat to the northern part of Mexico, where they taught the original peoples there to cultivate it, to harvest it, and to grind it into flour. The Spanish colonists were intent on converting the indigenous people to Catholicism, and according to Roman Catholic Canon Law (Canon 924, paragraph 2), pure wheat flour was then and continues to be required for the production of Communion hosts that were consumed by the Spanish colonists and by their indigenous converts. 

    The Spaniards also wanted the grain for the production of the white bread that they were accustomed to eating in Europe. That bread became a staple on the tables of the rich Spanish colonizers, while indigenous people continued to eat corn tortillas, as they had for thousands of years prior to the arrival of the Spanish.
    La Moderna Spaghetti 450gr
    A one-pound package of La Moderna brand durum wheat spaghetti.  The Mexican pasta company La Moderna, founded in 1920, today offers more than 40 pasta shapes just for sopas, whether liquid or dry, in the tiny forms of bowties, gears, alphabet letters, tongues (shaped like tear drops), BBs, lentils, fideos, snail shape, clam shape, crowns, stars, mushrooms, petticoats, tiny elbow, little eyes, little hats, feathers, spirals, screws, and more!  Packages of pasta for sopa weigh 200 grams and cost about 8 pesos (the equivalent in US dollars to about 40 cents). 200 grams of these pastas will feed about 3 to 4 people as the second course of a comida.  
    La Moderna Fideos 1
    Pasta de fideo, also made of durum wheat.  The size numbers of La Moderna fideo range from 0 (the thinnest) to 2 (the thickest).  In Mexico, the second-most popular sopa seca de pasta is fideo, short, straight, thin pieces of pasta.  Fideo is frequently also made into a liquid soup, caldo de fideo.  We'll get to that in a few paragraphs!  

    In today's Mexico, the most popular ways to prepare sopa seca de pasta are:
    1. Any shape pasta–especially fideo–cooked in caldillo, a thin red broth, until the broth is completely absorbed
    2. Cooked pasta stirred into a cream sauce or a creamy tomato sauce and sprinkled with cheese
    3. Hot spaghet
    ti or elbow macaroni with cream and diced ham
    4. Cold elbow macaroni salad
    La Moderna Municiones
    My personal favorite of the La Moderna line of tiny pastas: munición (literally, shot pellets) is the tiniest.  Munición is the size and shape of BBs!  

    Very few nineteenth century post-independence Mexican culinary records include the consumption of various types of pasta: ravioles, macarrones (long noodles), and tallarines (long, flat noodles).  Unless these were made in private homes, immigrants from countries where they were typically eaten brought them to Mexico.  At the time of the Porfiriato (1876-1910), many things here were "Frenchified", as Porfirio Díaz was a francophile through and through.  Italian-type pastas gave way to the French kitchen of elite, wealthy Mexicans. 

    Mexico Cooks! owns a reprinted Mexican cookbook, originally published in 1910, and has spent considerable time studying the recipes.  That cookbook unfortunately offers no reference to pasta of any kind.

    La Moderna was the first commercial pasta made in Mexico; its factory opened in 1920.  There are are other pasta manufacturers in today’s Mexico, most notably La Italiana, with a factory in Puebla, founded also in 1920.  La Italiana produces Italpasta for the Mexican market as does Golden Foods, located in Celaya, Guanajuato. In addition, foreign pasta makers have come to the Mexican market, particularly Barilla, which arrived in Mexico in 2003 and has its Mexico factory in San Luis Potosí. Barilla Mexico caters to the local market with both long and short pasta, plus five tiny pasta shapes specifically for preparing sopa seca.

    La Moderna Codos 1
    La Moderna tiny coditos–wee elbow macaroni.  These are size 1, the smallest made.  Each little elbow measures about 1/2 inch long.

    Forty-six percent of Mexico’s pasta is eaten at comida (Mexico's main meal of the day, eaten at mid-afternoon), either as a sopa seca or as a main dish. That’s 10 times more than we eat for supper, which is traditionally a lighter meal.  The three most-eaten pastas in Mexico are spaghetti (generally spelled espagueti, according to the rules of Spanish pronunciation) at 29%, fideos, 24%, and coditos (all sizes of elbow macaroni from the tiniest ones to the largest), 15%–of the average family consumption of 12.7 kilos of pasta per year.  That's about half the consumption of Italy, pretty amazing.

    Are you ready for some recipes?  I am, let's get cooking!

    Caldo de fideos

    My favorite recipe for sopa seca de fideos is:

    Sopa Seca (Dry Soup) of Fideos
    1. 1 pound fresh ripe tomatoes, chopped
    2. 1/4 of a medium-size onion, chopped
    3. 1 large garlic clove
    4. 1 chipotle chile en adobo (La Morena canned chiles, if you can find them.  Otherwise buy a brand that's readily available.)

    1.5 TBSP vegetable oil
    1 200gr (7.5 oz) package of fine fideo pasta.  If you can't find any brand of fideos, use broken-up angel hair pasta instead.
    1.5 cups chicken broth
    1/2 tsp oregano
    Salt to taste
    ___________________________

    Blend the first 4 ingredients in your blender until they are in small pieces, then add 1 cup of chicken broth and blend until the sauce is smooth.

    Heat the oil in a medium-size skillet and then add the fideos. Fry until lightly browned, stirring often to avoid burning them. This step will take about 2-3 minutes. Remove the fideos from the skillet and reserve.

    Add the caldillo, 1/2 cup of broth, oregano, and salt to taste to the skillet. Turn the heat up to bring to a boil (about 5 minutes). Once the sauce starts boiling, add the noodles, reduce heat to very low, and cover the skillet to let simmer.

    Keep cooking for about 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally as needed until noodles are cooked and tender. If the sauce still seems too liquid when the fideos are cooked through, simply remove the skillet from the heat and set aside for 5 minutes. This will allow the fideos to absorb the remaining liquid from the sauce.

    Serve either family-style in a medium-size bowl or on individual small plates.  Top with Mexican table cream or sour cream, crumbled sharp, dry white cheese and slices of just-ripe avocado.

    Serves 4.
    _________________________________________

    Fideos Dorados
    The fideos, fried to a golden brown.  This pasta is about an inch long and as thin as angel hair.

    Caldo de Fideos

    1 pound fresh ripe tomatoes, chopped
    1/4 of a medium-size onion, chopped
    2 large garlic cloves
    1 cup water
    Salt to taste
    6 cups chicken broth, either home-made or purchased. I like Knorr, the broth in tetrapak, if you need to buy broth.
    7.5 oz package of fideos 
    2 TBSP vegetable oil
    3 sprigs fresh parsley

    Put the tomato, onion, garlic and water into your blender jar and liquefy. When the tomato sauce is smooth, set it aside until you are ready to use it.

    Put the lard or vegetable oil in a deep pot. Heat until it shimmers and add all of the fideos at once. Stir constantly over medium heat until the fideos take on a golden-brown color.

    Pour the reserved tomato sauce through a wire strainer directly into the pot with the browned fideos. Allow to simmer (covered) on low to medium heat for about 5-10 minutes.

    Uncover and add the parsley sprigs to the pot of simmering soup. Replace the cover and simmer for another 20 minutes.

    Serves 4

    Caldo de fideos
    This soup is delicious as a first course for a midday meal or for the main course of a light lunch.  Photo courtesy Mexico10.org.

    Serves 4 to 6.
    _________________________________________

    Sopa de Tiritas Just Tiritas 1a
    Strips of corn tortillas, fried to a crisp golden brown.  I confess that I bought them already prepared!  

    And now for something completely different!  This recipe, which I found recently, is for a sopa seca de tiritas de tortilla (thin, fried corn tortilla strips).  It's not pasta, and it's not rice, and it is delicious!  I particularly like the addition of hierbabuena (fresh mint) to the caldillo.  Combined with the tomato broth and the corn tortilla strips, the flavors give you a big bang as a side dish or second course at your meal.

    Sopa Seca de Tiritas de Tortillas de Maíz con Menta

    Utensils you will need
    A deep, heavy, covered frying pan
    A large wooden spoon

    Colegio Culinario Hierbabuena
    Beautifully fresh home-grown hierbabuena (mint).

    Ingredients
    3-4 Tbsp freshly rendered lard or vegetable oil
    1 medium-size onion, cut into half-moons
    2 finely chopped tomatoes
    3 cups beef broth, either home-made or purchased
    6 big sprigs of fresh mint–leaves only, finely chopped
    Approximately half a pound of fried, thin tortilla strips
    Salt to taste
    1/2 cup aged white cheese, grated.  Look for Cotija-style cheese in your grocer's dairy case.

    Jitomate 1a
    Fresh Roma tomatoes, ripe and delicious

    Procedure  
    In a heavy skillet, heat the fat that you choose until it shimmers.  Add the onion and sauté, stirring constantly, until it is translucent and slightly yellowish.  Add the tomato and continue to cook until the tomato becomes soft and the majority of its juices have evaporated.

    Add the beef broth and the finely chopped mint leaves and allow to simmer for several minutes, until the flavors have incorporated into the onion/tomato mix.  Taste and add salt as necessary.

    Sopa de Tiritas en Caldillo
    Add the fried corn tortilla strips and simmer until all the liquid has been absorbed, approximately 5 minutes.

    Serve on individual small plate, topped with grated cheese, or serve family style on a platter and pass the cheese around to sprinkle thickly on each serving.

    Sopa de Tiritas Queso Cotija
    Finely chopped queso Cotija (Cotija cheese), ready to top your sopa seca de tiritas.

    Serves 4.

    Provecho!  I hope you enjoy these truly home-style Mexican recipes.  I look forward to seeing your comments.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Sopa Seca en México Parte Primera: Arroz :: “Dry Soup” in Mexico Part One: Rice

    El Portalito Interior
    El Portalito, a typical but larger-than-average fonda in Colonia La Condesa, Mexico City.  Mexico Cooks! was a frequent customer for the comida corrida it served prior to the massive earthquake in 2017, after which the restaurant closed permanently due to severe damage to its building.

    A multi-course Mexican comida, the main meal of the day, is normally served in Central Mexico sometime between 2:00 and 3:00PM. Either at home or in a fonda (a small, no-frills family-run restaurant), what you might be offered is called comida corrida: a multi-course meal much different from what one sees as "Mexican food" in the USA or other countries.

    El Portalito Caldo Tlalpen?o
    This sopa aguada is caldo Tlalpeño, rich, delicious chicken broth loaded with fresh vegetables and garbanzo beans.  The sopa seca de arroz (second course) was served at the same time as the first course; you can see the small plateful of arroz rojo at the left in the photo.  Typically, the diner puts several heaping soup spoons of rice in the soup bowl.  This fonda served sliced telera (at the right in the photo, a kind of white roll) rather than tortillas.

    Let’s start with the meal’s first course: soup—known in Mexico as sopa aguada (liquid soup). A liquid soup can be chicken consomé, caldo de pollo, or a cream soup. It might be tomato broth with macaroni, lentil soup, or cream of chile poblano—the selection is infinite.  The caldo Tlalpeño in the photo above is just one example.

    The second course is sopa seca—which literally means “dry soup”. Wait, what? Dry soup?  Give me a minute and I'll explain…

    The various courses go on from there, to your main dish and dessert, and then some!

    Okay, so:

    WHAT THE HECK IS SOPA SECA?

    Sopa seca—so-called "dry soup"—is the reason I was recently invited to participate in a conversation with my dear friend Zarela Martínez and her son Aarón Sánchez, both of whom are serious movers and shakers in the world of Mexican food that's based in the United States.  When that podcast is available online, I will post a link to it on Mexico Cooks!.  We all had a really good time talking to one another about home-style "dry soup" and I am so tickled and grateful to have been invited to talk with the two of them.

    When I talk about sopa seca with foreigners who aren’t familiar with it, they don’t believe me. People say, “'Dry soup' sounds like an oxymoron.  There IS no such thing!” But there issopa seca apparently came into being during the late 19th century, during the Mexican presidency/dictatorship (1876-1910) of Porfirio Díaz, and reached immense national popularity by the 1940s-1950s. Today, sopa seca is a culinary institution unique to Mexico.

    Sops Seca Arroz Rojo Lista
    Voilà–in the photo above you see sopa seca de arroz rojo ("dry soup", aka Mexican red rice).  I prepared this one with a little bit of minced chile serrano and fresh kernels of corn scraped from the cob).  You can also add diced fresh carrots, fresh or frozen peas, and a whole or minced chile serrano, if you like picante (spiciness).

    As the second course of your midday meal, sopa seca opens your appetite for what’s to come. Your sopa seca could be a small plate of arroz a la mexicana (rice, browned to golden in freshly rendered lard or oil and cooked in caldillo (a very thin tomato broth), or it could be a pasta dish; we'll read more about sopa seca de pasta next week here at Mexico Cooks!.  

    A Very Brief History of Rice in Mexico

    Rice is not native to Mexico, although about 20% of the rice we eat here is cultivated in several Mexican states.  The rest is imported from the United States or other countries.

    Judith Carney Black Rice 1
    According to Judith Carney, dean of Black rice in the Americas, rice came with Spanish invaders from the Senegal/Gambia Muslim regions of Africa, by way of the African Diaspora–in the holds of slave ships–beginning in the first quarter of the 16th century, 500 years ago. In 1522 it is documented that Hernán Cortés brought rice seed to Coyoacán from the port of Veracruz; in 1559 Champotón in the Yucatán was exporting rice “20 years after its establishment” there, and in 1579, both rice and millet were being grown in Sant María de la Victoria, Tabasco. Citation: Judith Carney, Dean of Black Rice in the Americas, Africana Studies, February 2011.

    However, other sources state that the Moors introduced rice to Spain starting in about 700AD, during their conquest of Spain; then to Italy in the 15th century, then to France, and then to post-Spanish-invasion lands, on all continents. The early conflict between the Moors and the Spanish Christians is immortalized in the traditional Cuban dish “Moors and Christians”—in which black beans play the Moors and white rice represents the Spanish, the two brought together and blended in both history and on a plate.

    Yet another theory reports that rice is a grain from Eastern Asia brought to Mexico from the Philippines at the start of the colonial period.  There are various ways to prepare rice such as: white; red; black; yellow; Puebla style; jardinière; and a la tumbada (Veracruz style) rice. Rice is used also to accompany different stews, roasts, mole-sauces, and adobo-sauces. The proper cooking point, texture, and consistency is a true controversy among different families and regions. In Southeast Mexico, rice is made mainly white to accompany the main dish of the meal. In Mexico City and other parts of central Mexico rice is usually cooked red [with tomatoes] and is served as a dry soup after the sopa aguada (broth-y soup), and before the main dish. It is common to top rice with a fried egg, or slices of fresh banana, or even mole. This seems highly logical, but another source says that until 1802 the Spanish considered rice to be a pagan cereal unfit for Christian consumption—almost 300 years after first contact!  

    It seems reasonable to believe both theories: the Mexican ports on the Pacific coast are a very long way from the ports on the Atlantic coast, and both Hernán Cortés and the Nao de China (the Spanish galleon) could easily have brought rice to the coasts of the "New World".  Today, rice is the third-most-consumed grain in Mexico, superseded only by corn and wheat.  Courtesy agrosintesis.com.

    Now for today's recipes!  Here's how Mexico Cooks! prepares caldillo and sopa seca de arroz.

    Sopa de Arroz Ingredientes Close Up 1
    Ingredients for the caldillo.

    Utensils for Caldillo
    Blender

    3 or 4 large red, completely ripe Roma tomatoes, coarsely chopped
    1/4 large white onion, coarsely chopped
    A piece of chile serrano about 1/2" long, more if you want your tomato broth to be spicy.
    About a cup of chicken broth or water
    Salt to taste

    Method of preparation for the Caldillo
    Put the chicken broth or water into your blender jar.  Add the tomatoes, the onion, and the piece of chile.  Blend until very smooth.  Once it's very smooth, add chicken broth until the caldillo is fairly thin.  Simmer the caldillo (with the pot lid ajar) until some of the liquid evaporates and the flavors have blended, about 15 minutes over a very low flame.
    ___________________________________–

    Utensils for Sopa Seca de Arroz
    A heavy pot with a cover, the pot preferably wider than it is deep, that will hold all of the ingredients in the recipe
    A wooden spoon

    Ingredients
    1 whole chile serrano, split from the tip almost to the stem end (optional)
    3 Tbsp freshly rendered pork lard (or vegetable oil)  
    1 or 2 cloves of garlic (optional–I'm not crazy about garlic in the rice, but many love it)
    1.5 cups raw white rice, washed in running water, drained, and allowed to dry
    All of the kernels cut from an ear of fresh yellow corn
    2 cups caldillo
    1 cup chicken broth
    A few sprigs of fresh cilantro, stems and all, washed
    Salt to taste

    Tip to the wise: if you see a brick-sized block of snow white, hydrogenated pork lard in your butcher's refrigerator case, run the other way.  You can buy freshly rendered pork lard at a Mexican food store near you. 

    Method of Preparation    

    Arroz Buenavista Package 1
    The rice that I use is Buenavista, grown in the state of Morelos, Mexico and available here and in some other places.  I know people who come for a visit to Mexico and take a few kilos back home with them, it's that good.  In my opinion, this is the best rice in the world for use in Mexican cooking.  The grain is large, it cooks to a delicious flavor and mouth-feel, and I love using a rice that's grown in this country. 

    Sopa de Arroz Arroz Crudo 1 
    Raw white rice, washed, drained, and dried.  It's toasting in melted lard in an old Chantal enamel-on-steel casserole, and that's my favorite wooden spoon. Put the fat you are using in the pot and bring to a shimmer.  You don't want it to smoke.  Add chile serrano, if you are using it; allow it to blacken.  Add the garlic, if you are using it, and allow the cloves to soften.   Then add the washed and dried rice, stirring constantly over medium heat until the grains of rice are toasted to a golden brown and "sound like sand" as you stir them in the bottom of the pot.  Thanks, Chef Rick Bayless, for that perfect description of the sound! 

    It's easy to burn rice, so keep your eye on it and don't stop stirring.  

    Sopa de Arroz Arroz Tostado 1
    When the rice is browned to golden, add the caldillo to the rice pot and bring to a full rolling boil. 

    Sopa de Arroz Ingredientes Blended 1
    As soon as it reaches the boiling point, immediately lower the heat to a simmer, add the fresh corn kernels, salt to taste, add fresh cilantro, stir once to combine with the rice, cover the rice pot and allow to simmer (not boil) until all of the liquid is absorbed.  I live at high altitude (6500 feet above sea level), so it takes about 20-23 minutes to cook rice.  Set your timer to 20 minutes and peek into the pot to see how the rice is coming along.  You need to keep checking, the cooking time might be different at your altitude.  At NO TIME should you stir the rice; stirring breaks the grains and you want the rice grains to remain intact.  When you see that the rice is done, keep the pot covered, turn off the fire and allow the rice to sit for a few minutes.  Take the top off the pot, give the rice a quick stir, and serve.

    Sopa de Arroz Caldillo Cooking 1
    The rice and caldillo are almost to a full rolling boil.  

    Sopa de Arroz Elote Cortado 1
    Fresh corn kernels added to the rice/caldillo mixture.  Give this mixture one good stir, cover the pot, turn the flame down to a low simmer, and don't touch it again till it's done.

    Sops Seca Arroz Rojo Lista
    Here once again is the first photo, Mexican sopa seca de arroz rojo, ready to serve.  When you taste it, you'll taste a touch of toasted flavor, some tomato, a hint of cilantro: everything fresh, everything healthy–even the lard is healthy, should you choose to use lard.  It's always my first choice for a savory fat.  

    Cooking time: 20-23 minutes

    Serves: approximately 6

    Provecho! (Good appetite!)

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Old-Fashioned Kitchen Sayings (Part Two) :: Dichos Mexicanos de la Cocina (Parte 2)

    Pollo Listo para Caldo
    A beautiful pink and golden Mexican chicken, ready for the soup pot.

    Last week's article about Mexico's dichos de la cocina (kitchen sayings) was just the tip of the iceberg.  I love them so much that I thought you might like to learn more of them!

      Chiles Rellenos Conde Pétatl
    Chile relleno con frijoles negros de la olla (stuffed poblano chile served with freshly cooked black beans). 

    Mexico's dichos de la cocina (kitchen sayings) number in the hundreds, if not the thousands.  Just like sayings and proverbs in any language, Mexican dichos usually have a double meaning: what the words of the saying are, and then how they are interpreted.  In English, the phrase "the early bird catches the worm" make sense just as you read it, but it has a secondary import: if you start your endeavor sooner rather than later, you have a much better chance of success.  So it is with all of these!

    Hog Heaven Bouquet de Cabezas
    Pig heads at a Mexico City market, ready to buy and take home to make pozole.

    Here are some of Mexico Cooks!' personal favorite kitchen sayings:

    –Vale más pan con amor, que gallina con dolor.  Bread eaten with love is worth more than chicken eaten with pain.
    –Se cambia mas fácilmente de religión que de café. 
    It's easier to change your religion than to change your coffee.
    –Quien hambre tiene, en pan piensa. 
    The hungry person thinks of bread. 

    Pan con Cafe
    Café con leche
    (coffee with milk) served with a basket of pan dulce (sweet Mexican breads).

    –El que parte y comparte, se queda con la mejor parte.  The one who portions and shares, gets the best part.
    –Al hablar, como al guisar, su granito de sal.  In speaking and cooking, a grain of salt.
    –Frutos y amores, los primeros son los mejores.  Fruits and loves–the first are the best.

    Paracho Fruta con Avejas
    A street vendor's fresh fruit in Paracho, Michoacán.  He sells seasonal fruits, including papaya, sandía (watermelon), and mango.  Enlarge any photo for better detail–in this photo, you'll see the bees.

    –Guajolote que se sale del corral, termina en mole.  The turkey that gets out of the yard ends up in mole.
    –La vida es como una cebolla, uno la pela llorando.  Life is like an onion, you cry while you peel it.
    –Mata el pollo y pon la mesa.  Kill the chicken and set the table.

    Frijol y Agua
    Frijol peruano ('Peruvian' beans), ready to cook in a clay pot filled with water.

    –Mentir y comer pescado quieren cuidado.   Be careful when lying and eating fish.
    –Nunca falta un negrito en el arroz.  There is always a black speck in the rice.
    –Al hambre de siete días, no hay pan duro.  If you've been hungry for a week, there is no such thing as hard bread.

    Flor de Lis Champurrado
    Champurrado (chocolate atole) at Restaurant Flor de Lis, Mexico City. 

    –De golosos y tragones, están llenos los panteones.  Cemeteries are filled with gluttons and big eaters.
    En la forma de agarrar el taco, se conoce al que es tragón.  They can tell if you're a big eater by the way you hold your taco.
    La mujer y las tortillas, calientes han de ser.  Women and tortillas have to be hot.

    Carnitas Taco 1
    Taco de carnitas at a Mexico City tianguis (street market).

    There are literally hundreds more Mexican kitchen sayings.  Sometime soon Mexico Cooks! will be back with more.   

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  • Old Fashioned Kitchen Sayings from Mexico :: Dichos de Antaño de la Cocina Mexicana

    Tzintzuntzan Frijolitos al Fogón
    Frijoles boil in a clay pot placed on a creative fogón (on-the-ground cooking fire).  The fire ring is the wheel rim of a truck, the wood is what was available.  The clay pot ensures old-fashioned flavor and Mexico Cooks!' interest in the cooking process ensured old-fashioned hospitality. "When will the beans be ready?" I asked.  "Come back at 1:30," the cook told us.  "They'll be ready to share, and I'll make some tortillas."

    Twenty or more years ago, Mexico Cooks! ate a once-in-a-lifetime meal in Mexico.  Simplicity itself, the comida (midday meal) consisted of steamed white rice piled with home-grown sliced bananas, homemade fresh cheese, frijoles de la olla (beans in their pot liquor, freshly cooked as in the photo above), and hand-patted tortillas, hot from the comal (griddle).  That meal, served in an outdoor kitchen, was our introduction to Mexican tradition, authenticity, and hospitality, all on a level we had never known before.

    Food, shared with friends and acquaintances, brings us together in elemental hospitality.  Food and the sharing of it in Mexico have, since earliest times, given rise to wonderful dichos (sayings) from the kitchen. 
    A Comer y a Misa...
    This hand-embroidered tablecloth was made for display at Pátzcuaro's Museo Regional del Arte Popular (Regional Folk Arts Museum).  Every one of its many, many sayings stitched into the cloth is a dicho de la cocina The one closest to the bottom of the photo says, "Del plato a la boca, se cae la sopa." ("Between the plate and the mouth, the soup spills")–which means "between one's intention and one's accomplishment, a lot can go wrong".

    Quoting a dicho de la cocina always brings a smile.  Here are a few favorites:

    • Mujer que guisa, se casa a prisa.  (The woman who cooks is soon married.)
    • A comer y a misa, a la primer llamada.  (To eat and to Mass, go at the first call.)
    • Mejor llegar a tiempo que ser invitado.  (It's better to arrive on time than to be invited.)

    Mesa para Visitas
    Whether rich or poor, people always invite others to share their table.  It's seriously offensive to refuse an offered meal.

    • Al que nace para tamal, del cielo le caen las hojas.  If you're born to be a tamal, your corn husks will fall from heaven.
    • Come a gusto y placentero y que ayune tu heredero.  Eat what you like and at your pleasure–let your descendants fast!
    • Cuando el ratón está lleno, hasta la harina le sabe amarga.  When the mouse is full, even flour tastes bitter to him.

    Pozole Rojo
    Red pozole, made with pork, chiles, and nixtamal de maíz cacahuatzintle (a type of processed dried corn), is one of Mexico's most comforting meals.  For a wonderfully rich recipe, try this one from our friend Rolly's favorite cook, Doña Martha.

    • Desayunar como rey, comer como príncipe y cenar como mendigo.  Eat breakfast like a king, eat at midday like a prince, and have supper like a beggar.
    • El hambre es la buena, no la comida.  Hunger is the good thing, not the food.
    • El que parte y comparte, se queda con la mejor parte.  The one who cuts and serves the food gets the best part.

    Uchepos de Nata
    Uchepos de leche
    are a regional Michoacán specialty served for breakfast or supper.

    • Fuchi… ¡quiero más!  It's AWFUL…give me some more!
    • Gástalo en la cocina y no en medicina.  Spend your money in the kitchen, not on medicine.
    • Invierno buen tiempo para el herrero, el panadero y el chocolatero.  Winter's a good time for the ironworker, the baker, and the chocolate maker.

    Caldo de Pollo Casera 1
    Mexican caldo de pollo–traditional chicken soup–is hearty with shredded chicken, carrots, calabacita (similar to zucchini), potatoes, and chayote.  Dressed and seasoned at the table with a spritz of jugo de limón (Key lime juice), roughly chopped cilantro, minced onion, and a spoonful of spicy salsa, it's absolutely essential to one's comfort and well-being.

    • La comida entra por los ojos. Food comes in through the eyes.
    • La paciencia es amarga, pero sus frutos son dulces.  Patience is bitter, but its fruits are sweet.
    • La venganza es dulce al paladar, pero amarga para la garganta.  Vengance is sweet in the mouth, but bitter in the throat.

    Outdoor Kitchen
    An outdoor kitchen is still common in rural areas of Mexico.  This one, near Morelia, Michoacán is lovely, dressed in soft blue paint and flowers.

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  • Mexico’s Most Popular Drink :: The Michelada, Perfect for Midsummer!

    Michelada 1
    A perfect michelada, rimmed with Tajín and topped with crunchy fresh cucumber.  Spicy, salty, beery, umami-rich, and completely refreshing.

    Here in Mexico–everywhere in Mexico!–the single most popular beer drink is the michelada. Its ingredients, always based on beer, depend on the bartender, the part of the country one is in, or on one's personal taste.  A michelada is an any-time, any-season drink.

    We see fútbol (soccer) stadiums full of people slugging down liters of stadium-prepared micheladas, parties at home where no other alcoholic beverage is served, and restaurant tables full of people slurping them down along with their barbacoacarne asada, or pozole–or accompanying a hamburger and fries, or a salad.  The michelada goes with just about any sort of food.  Popular wisdom also knows it as a super hangover cure, so hey–beer for breakfast in your hour of need?  Why not, just this once?

    Michelada Corona
    The primary ingredient of any michelada is beer.  Most people prefer a light-colored lager, but once in a while someone will order a michelada made with dark beer. Corona is just one option; any light-colored lager will do. First and foremost is to use the lager you prefer: Corona, Pacifico, Modelo, or any other. And your beer doesn't even have to be made in Mexico; use whatever country's beer you like best. Photo courtesy Corona.

    The seasonings in a michelada typically include either Clamato, V8, or plain tomato juice, plus Worcestershire sauce, a very hot bottled salsa like Valentina, Cholula, Yucateca, or any of dozens on the grocer's shelf, salt—lots of salt—powdered chile, the umami-heavy seasoning liquid called Maggi, and freshly-squeezed jugo de limón (the juice of a Key lime). 

    Michelada Tajin
    Rim a frosted pint mug or glass with powdered Tajín (a commercial mix of powdered dry chile, limón flavoring, and salt).  You can find Tajín in almost any supermarket. There are imitators, but if you can find Tajín, it's the best.  Photo courtesy Tajín. 

    Tip to the wise: to evenly rim a glass: put a generous quantity of Tajín in a saucer.  In another saucer, put about 1/4 cup of water or jugo de limón (Key lime) Holding your mug or glass upside down and level, dip its opening just a bit into the water, then into the Tajín.  Voilà!

    Campbell's Tomato Juice 64 oz 1

    Campbell's tomato juice contains tomato juice from concentrate, potassium chloride, ascorbic acid, citric acid, salt, malic acid, and other flavorings.  Photo courtesy Campbell's.

    Michelada clamato
    Clamato contains water, tomato concentrate, high fructose corn syrup, MSG, salt, citric acid, onion powder, celery seed, garlic powder, dried clam broth, unspecified spices, vinegar, natural flavors, food coloring, and ascorbic acid to maintain color.  Photo courtesy Clamato.

    Now add the rest of the ingredients.  Here's a recipe to get you started; experiment with micheladas till the flavor blend is exactly the way you like it.

    Micheladas a la mexicana

    • light-colored lager beer of your choice
    • Clamato, V8, or tomato juice
    • 3 or 4 splashes hot sauce, more or less to taste.  Try Valentina, or Cholula, or use your favorite.
    • 2 splashes of Worcestershire sauce
    • 2 splashes of Maggi sauce 
    • Juice of one lime

      Fill the glass about ¼ to ? with the V8, tomato, or Clamato juice. Add the hot sauce, the lime juice, the Worcestershire sauce, and the soy sauce. If you used Tajín to salt the rim, pour any excess from the plate into the glass.  Fill the rest with cold beer and top off your micheladas with sticks of celery or jícama, skewers of shrimp or olives, half-moons of cucumber, freshly-cooked octopus–really, anything within the limits of your imagination.  And for good measure, add another splash of Maggi. 

    Michelada Worcestershire Sauce
    In the United States, the ingredients in Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce are: distilled white vinegar, molasses, sugar, water, salt, onions, anchovies, garlic, cloves, tamarind extract, natural flavorings, and chili pepper extract.  Anchovies–did you know that?  Photo courtesy Lee & Perrins.

    Michelada Valentina--4-Lt
    Valentina is arguably Mexico's best-known bottled salsa. The photo shows the four liter bottle–nearly a gallon! That size should keep you in micheladas for quite a while. If you'd prefer a smaller bottle, you can buy Valentina, either hot or extra-hot, in a 12.5 ounce size.  The ingredients are water, chile peppers, vinegar, salt, spices and sodium benzoate (as a preservative). The taste can be described as a citrus flavor, with a nicely spicy aftertaste. Photo courtesy Valentina.

    Michelada Maggi
    If you're not already using Maggi for cooking, look for it until you find it for your micheladas.  Of Swiss origin, Maggi is ubiquitous, literally a global phenomenon, used all over the world to add an extra touch of taste to savory recipes.  It's indispensable in a michelada, bringing the utmost in umami to the drink.  Your micheladas will be pale in flavor without it.  The ingredients of Maggi vary by country; if you have an MSG sensitivity, be sure to look for that in the ingredients list.  Some countries' Maggi have it, some don't.  Photo courtesy Maggi.

    Michelada V8
    V8 Original juice contains a blend of reconstituted vegetable juices including tomatoes, carrots, celery, beets, parsley, lettuce, watercress, and spinach, plus a tiny percentage of salt, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and natural flavoring. Photo courtesy V8. <

    Now add the rest of the ingredients.  Here's a recipe to get you started; experiment with micheladas till the flavor blend is exactly the way you like it.

    Micheladas a la mexicana

    • light-colored lager beer of your choice
    • Clamato or V8 or tomato juice
    • 3 or 4 splashes hot sauce, more or less to taste.  Try Valentina, or Cholula, or use your favorite.
    • 2 splashes of Worcestershire sauce
    • 2 splashes of Maggi sauce 
    • Soy sauce to taste.
    • Juice of one limón (Key lime)

      Fill the glass about ¼ to ? with the Clamato juice. Add the hot sauce, the lime juice, the Worcestershire sauce, and the soy sauce. If you used Tajín to salt the rim, pour any excess from the plate into the glass.  Fill the rest with cold beer and top off your micheladas with sticks of celery or jícama, skewers of shrimp or olives, half-moons of cucumber, freshly-cooked octopus–really, anything within the limits of your imagination.  And for good measure, add another splash of Maggi. 

    Limo?n criollo
    Finally, the taste of freshly squeezed jugo de limón (juice from the key lime) will brighten up your michelada in a way that regular lime juice won't.  You'll find limones in many supermarkets and Latin specialty markets.  The juice of one limón per liter of michelada is the ratio you want.  Mexico Cooks! photo. 

    The name michelada is said to be made of three words: 'mi' (my) 'chela' (a popular nickname for any beer) and 'helada' (icy cold). How many micheladas are consumed in Mexico every year?  Untold millions!  Do your part this summer to keep the numbers up!

    Salud!  (To your health!)

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  • Chiles Rellenos en Nogada, El Rey de los Chiles :: Stuffed Chiles in Walnut Sauce, The King of Chiles

    Chile en Nogada Fonda Fina Aug 21 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada (chile poblano stuffed with a seasonal filling and topped with fresh walnut sauce, chopped parsley, walnut meats, and pomegranates), as served by chef Juan Cabrera Barron at Fonda Fina, Mexico City, August 21, 2017.

    Freshly Cut Walnuts Chile en Nogada
    Freshly harvested nuez de castilla (walnuts), an essential for seasonal chiles en nogada.  Photo courtesy El Sol de Puebla.

    Mexico celebrates its independence during the entire month of September with parades, parties, and traditional food and drink, served in restaurants and at home.  The traditional festive dish served beginning in July and throughout the weeks just before and after the Independence Day holiday is chiles en nogada, a magnificent tribute to the seasonal availability of a certain kind of peach, the locally grown panochera apple, in-season granadas (pomegranates) and nuez de castilla (freshly harvested walnuts). From mid-July until early October, seasonal local fruits, fresh pomegranates, and newly harvested walnuts make chiles en nogada possible.  Mildly spicy chiles poblano, stuffed with picadillo and topped with richly creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, flaunt the brilliant green, white and red of the Mexican flag. 

    Manzana panochera y pera lechera
    The panochera apple, grown in the Mexican state of Puebla, and pera lechera (milky pear), also grown in the area, are two must-have ingredients for making chiles en nogada in Mexico.  If you live outside Mexico, small crisp apples and very crisp pears (Bosque or d'Anjou) would substitute.

    This festive dish is traditionally served on September 15 or 16 in honor of Mexico's Independence Day, though it is popular anytime from late July through October. During late July, August and September in the highlands of Mexico, particularly in Mexico City and Puebla, vendors wander tianguis (street markets) and other markets, selling the clean, white meats of nuez de castilla. It is important to use the freshest walnuts possible, as they produce such a creamy, rich sauce that it is worth the effort to buy them peeled or peel them oneself.  Yes, the recipe is time-consuming…but you and your guests will jump up and shout "VIVA!" when you've licked the platters clean. 

    Ingredients

    For the meat:  

    • 2 pounds beef brisket or other stew meat or 1 pound ground beef and 1 pound ground pork 
    • 1 small white onion, quartered 
    • 2 large cloves garlic 
    • about 1 Tbsp sea salt

     For the picadillo (filling):  

    • 4 Tbsp safflower or canola oil
    • the shredded or ground meats
    • 1/3 cup chopped white onion
    • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
    • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • 1/8 tsp ground cloves
    • 3 heaping Tbsp raisins
    • 1 or 2 chiles serrano, finely minced
    • 4 Tbsp chopped fresh walnuts 
    • 4 Tbsp slivered blanched almonds (optional)
    • 2 Tbsp finely diced biznaga (candied cactus, optional)
    • 1 fresh pear, peeled and chopped
    • 1 apple, peeled and chopped
    • 4 ripe peaches, peeled and diced
    • 3 Tbsp Mexican pink pine nuts.  Substitute white if you aren't able to find pink.
    • 3 large, ripe tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
    • sea salt to taste

    Flaneur Chiles Poblanos Rojos Tehuaca?n 2016
    Fully mature chiles poblano, picked fresh in Tehuacán, Puebla.  

    Rajas Chiles Asados y Pelados
    Green chiles poblano are normally used for chiles en nogada.  These have been roasted and peeled and are ready for stuffing.

    For the chiles:

    –6 fresh chiles poblanos, roasted, peeled, slit open, and seeded, leaving the stem intact   

     For the nogada (walnut sauce):  

    • 1 cup fresh walnuts 
    • 6 ounces queso de cabra (goat cheese), queso doble crema or standard cream cheese (not fat free) at room temperature 
    • 1-1/2 cups crema mexicana or 1-1/4 cups sour cream thinned with milk 
    • about 1/2 tsp sea salt or to taste
    • 1 Tbsp sugar   
    • 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 cup dry sherry (optional)

    Pomegranate
    Remove the arils (seeds) from a pomegranate.  We who live in Mexico are fortunate to find pomegranate seeds ready to use, sold in plastic cups.

    For the garnish 

    –1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
    –1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds 

    Preparation:

    Cut the meat into large chunks, removing any excess fat. Place the meat into a large Dutch oven with the onion, garlic, and salt. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that collects on the surface. Lower the heat and allow the water to simmer about 45 minutes, until the meat is just tender. Take the pot off the stove and let the meat cool in the broth. Remove the pieces of meat and finely shred them. 

    If you are using ground meats, the above step is unnecessary.  Simple brown the ground meats and then add the rest of the ingredients under the heading "picadillo" (above).

    Biznaga cristalizada
    Candied biznaga cactus.  Do try to find this ingredient in your local market.  There isn't an adequate substitute, so if you don't find it, leave it out.

    Warm the oil in a large, heavy skillet and sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat until they turn a pale gold. Stir in the shredded meat and cook for five minutes. Add the cinnamon, pepper, and cloves, then, stir in the raisins, the two tablespoons of chopped walnuts. Add the chopped pear, apple, biznaga, and mix well. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste, and continue cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture has evaporated. Stir often so that the mixture doesn't stick. Let cool, cover, and set aside. The picadillo may be made a day or two in advance.

    Chiles en Nogada
    Beautifully home-prepared chiles en nogada, as presented several years ago at a traditional food exhibition in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.

    Make a slit down the side of each chile, just long enough to remove the seeds and veins. Keep the stem end intact. Drain the chiles, cut side down, on paper towels until completely dry. Cover and set aside. The chiles may be prepared a day in advance. 

    At least three hours in advance, put the walnuts in a small pan of boiling water. Remove from the heat and let them sit for five minutes. Drain the nuts and, when cool, rub off as much of the dark skin as possible. into small pieces. Place the nuts, cream cheese, crema, and salt in a blender and purée thoroughly. Stir in the optional sugar, cinnamon, and sherry until thoroughly combined. Chill for several hours. 

    Preheat the oven to 250ºF. When ready to serve, reheat the meat filling and stuff the chiles until they are plump and just barely closed. Put the filled chiles, covered, to warm slightly in the oven. After they are heated through, place the chiles (cut side down) on a serving platter or on individual plates, cover with the chilled walnut sauce, and sprinkle with the chopped parsley and pomegranate seeds. 

    Azul Histo?rico Chile en Nogada
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Azul Histórico, Mexico City.

    Chile en Nogada PdeH Aug 13 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Pasillo de Humo, Mexico City.

    This dish may be served at room temperature, or it may be served chilled. It is rarely if ever served hot. 

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  • Albóndigas de Pollo en Salsa Verde :: Chicken Meatballs in Green Sauce, doña Yola Style

    Doña Yola la Chef
    Several years ago, Mexico Cooks! was thrilled to meet doña Yolanda Rodríguez Orozco.  At the time, she was working at a now-defunct buffet restaurant in Morelia, Michoacán.  In Mexico, 'doña' is an honorific indicating true respect for a woman (it's don for a man).  Affectionately known to one and all as doña Yola, she cooked with tremendous love as the primary seasoning for whatever she put on the table.

    One of the most delicious items on the menu at that restaurant was Albóndigas de Pollo en Salsa Verde (chicken meatballs in green sauce).  Because I promised that I would share the recipe with all of you, doña Yola graciously shared her amazingly easy recipe with me.  Simple to prepare and marvelous to taste, these meatballs instantly made it to star status on our dining table.

    Pechuga de Pollo Molida
    A chicken vendor grinds fresh chicken breast to order at the weekly tianguis (street market) in our neighborhood.  You can ask the butcher at your supermarket to grind the breasts for you.

    Espinacas
    Gorgeous dark green vitamin-rich spinach, ready to chop for the albóndigas.

    Hierbabuena con Huevos
    Fresh hierbabuena (mint) grown in a pot on our terrace or available at any market, along with beautiful fresh local eggs.

    Albóndigas de Pollo en Salsa Verde Estilo doña Yola
    Chicken Meatballs in Green Salsa, doña Yola's Way

    Ingredients for the meatballs
    1 kilo (2.2 lbs) freshly ground chicken breast
    100 grams (more or less 1/4 lb) raw fresh spinach (stems removed), finely chopped
    1 small white onion, finely minced
    1 clove garlic, finely minced
    1 Tbsp fresh mint, finely minced
    1 chile serrano, finely minced
    1/2 cup cooked white rice
    3 eggs, lightly beaten
    1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
    Sea salt to taste
    Freshly ground pepper to taste
    1 tsp cornstarch or as needed

    Mezcla
    Ground chicken, spinach, onion, garlic, mint, and chile serrano, ready to mix with cooked rice.

    Procedure
    Lightly mix the first seven ingredients together.  Beat the eggs and Worcestershire sauce together and mix by hand into the mixture.  Add sea salt and ground black pepper to taste.  Add cornstarch until the mixture holds together well when you form a small amount into a ball.  Form the mixture into balls approximately 2" in diameter.  Makes 20 albóndigas.  Plate the meatballs in a single layer (Mexico Cooks! likes to re-use well-washed biodegradable meat trays from a supermarket for holding the albóndigas), then cover and refrigerate until ready to cook.

    Tomate y Chile
    Tomates verdes (you probably know them as tomatillos) and chiles serranos for preparing salsa verde.  Remove the tomatillos'  papery husks and wash the sticky tomatillos thoroughly.

    Ingredients for Salsa Verde
    10-12 tomatillos (known in Mexico as tomate verde), husks removed
    3 or 4 whole chiles serranos
    1 bunch fresh cilantro, largest stems removed
    Sea salt to taste

    Hervido

    Procedure
    In a large pot of water, bring the tomatillos and chiles to a full rolling boil.  Boil just until the tomatillos begin to crack; watch them closely or they will disintegrate in the water.

    Listo para Licuar
    Using a slotted spoon, scoop the cooked tomatillos and chiles into your blender jar.  There's no need to add liquid.  Cover, hold the blender cap on, and blend until smooth.  Be careful not to burn yourself, this is a hot mixture and tends to react like lava in the blender.  Don't ask me how I know this.

    Listo para Licuar 2
    While the blender is running, remove the center of its cap and, little by little, push the cilantro into the whizzing sauce.  Blend just until smooth; you should still see big flecks of dark green cilantro in the lighter green sauce.  Add sea salt to taste and stir.

    Ya en la Salsa
    Pour the salsa into a 2-quart pot.  Add the meatballs and bring to a simmer.  Cover and allow to simmer for about 30 minutes.  Mexico Cooks! prepared six meatballs for our comida (main meal of the day), but two meatballs apiece were plenty for the two of us.  We ate the leftovers (and another two meatballs) the following day.  We froze twelve raw meatballs without salsa for subsequent meals.

    Para dar Hambre
    Albóndigas de pollo en salsa verde, plated with white rice cooked with carrots, Mexican style.

    Mexico Cooks! is so grateful to doña Yola for sharing her recipe with us.  These albóndigas de pollo are not only easy to prepare and very healthy (with high vitamin K and beta carotene content and no added fat), but they are also absolutely delicious.

    Provecho!

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  • A Few of Mexico’s Old Favorite Herbs–and Some You Might Not Have Met Yet

    Colegio Culinario Hierbabuena
    Fresh hierbabuena (mint) growing in a Morelia friend's garden.

    The  cuisines of Mexico–and you know that there are many different regional cuisines–are a fantastic amalgam of indigenous corn-based food preparations with an overlay of Spanish ingredients, a strong influence of Moorish flavors, and a lagniappe of French artifice from the mid-to-late 19th Century. There is no one cuisine in this big country, although some popular dishes are found in every region. Not every cook prepares enchiladas with the same list of ingredients; tacos, although ubiquitous in Mexico, can be different at every crowded taco stand.

    Garlic in Wire Basket 1
    Mexico Cooks! stores garlic in this 3" diameter wire basket, hanging from a cup hook on the side of a cupboard.  Circulating air keeps the garlic fresh for quite a while.

    Canela Mexicana 1
    Mexican canela (cinnamon), for sale in a Oaxaca market.  Mexican cinnamon sticks (actually grown in Sri Lanka and imported to Mexico) are usually about two feet long and, unlike the short, hard, nearly flavorless cinnamon sticks sold outside the country, are easily broken into the length piece you need for a recipe.  Grind it into horchata (usually a chilled rice drink), use it to flavor a comforting, sweet and hot atole (a thick corn drink), or use it for traditional seasoning in arroz con leche (Mexican rice pudding).  Naturally there are many other Mexican recipes that require canela.

    Many of the herbs and spices that you use in your own kitchen are also used in the Mexican kitchen. Garlic, cinnamon, oregano, and thyme are in widespread use here. Cumin, cloves, and mint show up frequently. Lemon grass, which we usually think of as an ingredient in Thai or Vietnamese dishes, is commonly grown in many parts of Mexico and is used to make tea.

    A good part of the differences in the regional cuisines of Mexico is each region's use of herbs. Some of those herbs are completely unknown to those of us whose familiarity with Mexican food stops with Pepe's Taco Hut on Main Street, USA. Pepe, whose mother's family emigrated to the USA from the Mexican state of Hidalgo, prepares the restaurant's platillos fuertes (main dishes) from recipes passed down from his abuelita (grandmother), who lived for 97 years in the same Hidalgo village. He's adapted those recipes to include the ingredients he can find in the States and to the palates of his customers.

    Orégano Orejón
    This herb, a large-leafed, strong-flavored, and fuzzy variety of oregano called orégano orejón (big-ear oregano), is unusual even in Mexico. Mexico Cooks! once had a pot of it, but the plant has unfortunately gone to the great beyond.  I'd love to have another pot of it.

    Standard oregano is quite common in Mexican cooking. It can be used either fresh or dried. A small pot of oregano in a sunny spot of your kitchen garden will usually be plenty for all your cooking needs. If you live in a place where the growing season is short, harvest oregano periodically through the summer, tie the stems in small bunches, and hang upside down in a dark place to dry. It dries very fast and retains most of its aroma and flavor. Discard the stems and store the crisp leaves in an airtight, lightproof containers.

    Because the growing season in many parts of Mexico is almost year-round, I can always cut a fresh sprig of oregano or two to use when making spaghetti sauce, pescado a la veracruzana, (fish prepared in the style of Veracruz) or other tomato-based sauces. I wash the sprigs and either strip off the leaves into the pot or put the entire sprig into the sauce for seasoning.

    Mexican Basil 1
    In Mexico, albahaca (basil) is used primarily in Italian restaurants and pizza shops, although Genovese basil is all but unknown here.  However, Mexican basil is widely grown and used in an unusual way: many small businesses put a pot of growing basil just outside the front door to their shops.  Why?  The creencia (belief) is that a flower pot filled with an albahaca plant will draw clients and money to the business.

    Romero Rosemary 1
    Romero (rosemary).  This non-native herb is used very little in Mexico's cuisines.  However, some 'modern Mexican' chefs are making cold rosemary infusions to be drunk either before or with a meal.

    The Mexican kitchen uses a wide range of other herbs. The Spanish names read like a mysterious litany: epazote, estragón, hoja santa, hierbabuena; comino, clavo, and romero. In English, they are (in order) wormseed, tarragon, holy leaf, mint, cumin, cloves, and rosemary.

    Mercado 100 Epazote
    Epazote
    grows wild all over Mexico and in parts of the United States. Several months ago I paid ten pesos (approximately 50 cents USD) at a tianguis (street market) for a pot of it to plant in my garden. As I was carrying the pot home, my neighbor, doña Mago, saw me and exclaimed, "Porque compraste eso?" ("Why did you buy that?").

    "Well, you know" I answered, "I like it to cook in my beans, to make quesadillas, for the flavor—"

    "No, no, no, amiga!" she cried (always looking out for me), and pointed a finger toward the corner. "It grows up through the cracks in the sidewalk just down the street. You should have asked me to show you where to find it. You could have saved your money. When I want some, I just go over there and cut a piece." It's true. When I was out for a walk the next day, I noticed for the first time the epazote plant she had mentioned.

    Regardless of my profligate waste of ten pesos, I do like to cook a big sprig of epazote in a pot of beans. The herb is originally from Mexico and Central America. The indigenous language name that was given to epazote is derived from the Nahuatl words 'epti' and 'zotle': the combined word means 'skunk sweat'. As you can imagine, the herb has a very strong and distinctive flavor. According to Mexican kitchen lore, epazote also has anti-flatulent properties, which is why it might be smart to add it to the boiling bean pot.

    Tamales de Pollo Guajillo Cebolla Titita
    Veracruz-style tamal ready to wrap in its hoja de plátano (banana leaf)–the leaf is the flat, dark green part under the masa (corn dough).  Carmen Titita Ramírez Degollado, owner of the El Bajío restaurant chain in Mexico City, was giving me instructions on how to make this style tamal.

    Banana leaves are used for wrapping meats to prepare barbacoa (southeastern Mexican barbecue, cooked in a pit) and for wrapping and flavoring tamales from Veracruz and Oaxaca, in southeastern Mexico.  Another plant used to give uncommon seasonings to Oaxacan cuisine is hoja de aguacate (avocado leaf). You won't be able to run right out to your nearest Safeway or HEB store to find either of these. If you live in an area where there's a large Asian population, you'll find packages of frozen banana leaves in any well-stocked Asian food market. As for avocado leaves—well, the only avocado leaf that gives anise flavor to a dish is aguacate criollo, a kind of avocado native to Mexico and doesn't grow elsewhere. Unfortunately there's no seasoning substitute for them; the standard Hass avocado leaf has no flavor.

    Hoja Santa
    Hoja santa
    (holy leaf) is also known as acuyo.

    Hoja santa is used extensively in Mexican cooking. It's a large, heart-shaped leaf that comes from a tall, bushy plant—a plant that will take over the garden space that it's planted in and then some, if you let it. It's a native of Mexico and has medicinal properties as well as seasoning uses. The flavor of hoja santa is reminiscent of anise, and it combines exceptionally well with fish or chicken. 

    As you can see, Mexican home cooking is far more than tacos and enchiladas. The more unusual kitchen herbs of Mexican cuisine add intense flavor without adding that blast of spiciness that we have so often mistaken for the only seasoning of Mexico.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • What’s in Season in Mexico’s Markets This July?

    Mercado de Sonora Calabaza
    At the Mercado de Sonora in Mexico City, this gigantic freshly cut squash looks more like a huge flower. The squash, an extremely hard-shelled variety known as calabaza de Castilla (Castilian squash), was approximately two feet in diameter! Behind it are plátanos machos (plaintains). The squash, carefully cut in half to show its beautiful flesh and seeds, is resting on taro root rhizomes.

    Those of you who live somewhere outside Mexico and are enjoying seasonal fresh fruits and vegetables right now might be surprised to learn that even in Mexico, where the growing season can be year-round, there are times when it's the season for (insert name of item here) and we all rush to buy what's new in our markets. Whether Mexico Cooks! shops at a tianguis (street market), at an enclosed municipal market, or at a modern supermarket, seasonal fruits and vegetables are must-haves–otherwise, they won't be back in the markets till next year.

    Mercado de Jamaica Nopales
    The most recently arrived seasonal fruit for summer 2021 is the tuna (prickly pear cactus fruit).  Available by the ton from late June until sometime in September, the tuna is considered to be Mexico's national fruit.  It even appears on Mexican flag!  You can see how it grows: that's a nopal cactus paddle, with tunas growing around the outside edge. More are piled up in the boxes. The spiny, thick green peel encloses a marvelous fruit.  

    Mercado de Jamaica Tuna Pelada
    Here's a tuna that I just peeled.  Peel-and-eat, seeds and all.  Cut the ends from the tuna, make a lengthwise slit down one side of the skin, and with your fingers, simply pull the skin away from the flesh.  Chilled, the sweet, crisp tuna flesh is as refreshing as watermelon–and similarly textured. A longtime friend of mine, don Baldomero (QEPD), used to tell me, "Cristina, chickens eat little stones to help their digestion.  We Mexicans eat tunas!"

    Hongos Silvestres Morilla Mercado Jamaica
    Can you even believe it?  The cool, refreshing rainy season in central Mexico means wild mushrooms!  The season is just beginning.  I bought these glorious fresh morels at a municipal market where I often take touring foodies. Women from small towns in mountainous areas around Mexico City forage for these and other mushrooms (chanterelles and lobster mushrooms, anyone?) and sell them at local markets.  These morels were so inexpensive (80 pesos the kilo–about $4.00USD) that I bought a kilo (2.2 pounds) and gave half to my neighbor.

    Hongos Silvestres Mercado Santo Nin?o Morelia
    What you may know as lobster mushrooms (Hypomyces lactifluorum) are called trompa de puerco (pig snout) here in central Mexico. Contrary to its mushroom name, this is actually a fungus that attacks a kind of wild white mushroom, deforming it into the delicacy you see in the picture. These do sometimes appear at farmers' markets in the USA, but prepare to pay through the snout for them: upwards of $30.00USD per pound.  Here, they're a tenth that price.

    Flor de Calabaza Mercado Paracho  Michoaca?n
    These enormous just-cut flor de calabaza (squash blossoms) appear in Mexico's markets as the plants are setting their fruit.  The Purépecha indigenous woman in the photo has brought her flowers to sell on the street in Paracho, Michoacán.  Tidbit of information: only the male blossoms are cut for eating; the female flowers, notable by the spherical beginning of a squash at the base of each flower, are left on the vine to bear fruit.

    DF Mangos Parai?so Mercado Coyoaca?n
    Mangos!  It's still mango season in Mexico, and the varieties are many.  These are Paraíso (aka Hayden): about five inches long and plump as can be, the flesh is tender, sweet, and incredibly popular as a snack.  Mangos are the most-cultivated fruit in the world, with India leading the way in mango cultivation!

    Mango Flowers  Pa?tzcuaro Feb 2011
    Here's a ready-to-eat mango-on-a-stick, offered by a street vendor in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.  Spritzed with a little jugo de limón (juice of the Key lime), sprinkled with a big pinch of salt, and dusted with crushed, dried, red chile–absolutely marvelous.  People in Mexico look forward all year long to the several months of mango season.

    Papaya
    July is also papaya season.  This variety, the usual one that we see in Mexico, is the Carica papaya–otherwise known as the Maradol.  Ranging in size from about eight inches long to a jumbo-size foot and a half, the Maradol papaya has very thin orange skin, meaty, deep orange flesh and usually a zillion firm black seeds, each about half the size of a small pea.  Eat this fruit any time: diced for breakfast, in a smoothie, or accompany your comida (main meal at midday) with a refreshing agua fresca de papaya–a papaya fruit water.

    Limo?n Criollo
    Limón criollo: Mexico's small spherical 'native' limones are known in the United States as Key limes.  These limones aren't really native to Mexico; they originated in Asia and were brought here by the Spanish nearly 500 years ago. Available all year and used ubiquitously for everything from squeezing onto fresh fruit to squeezing into your bowl of caldo de pollo (chicken soup) to spritzing onto your hands for slicking down your head of unruly hair, these green to greenish-yellow limones are available all year long.  July is their peak season, though. Their flavor is completely different from either the lime OR the lemon; oddly enough, neither Persian limes (the large oval green ones) nor Eureka lemons (the large oval yellow ones) are grown for the fresh fruit market in Mexico.  Once in a great while we see them imported.

    Sandi?a
    Last, the sandía (watermelon).  Available all over Mexico and in season right this minute, the sweetness of the fruit is as refreshing as a cool shower.  Native to somewhere in Africa–there's lots of controversy about where–and over 5000 years old, Mexico's watermelon is grown primarily in this country's western and eastern coastal states.

    Paracho Fruta con Avejas
    Fresh mango, papaya, and watermelon, ready to be seasoned just the way you like them.

    Here in Mexico, many tropical fruits are eaten sprinkled with salt, crushed, dried red chile pepper, and a squirt or two of limón.  If you've never tried it this way, you'll be surprised at how this multi-level flavor combination changes a standard sweet fruit experience to a rush of OH MY GOODNESS! in your mouth.  Many years ago, when my elderly mother visited me in Mexico, I presented her with an already-seasoned breakfast plate of fresh ripe-picked pineapple from Veracruz, ripe-picked strawberries from Michoacán, ripe-picked papaya from Chiapas, and field-ripened cantaloupe from Mexico's west coast.  Always an adventurous eater, she gobbled it right down and sighed in contentment.  She said, "Cristina, I've never really understood tropical fruit before.  It needs all those seasonings to make it just perfect."  My mother was right.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.