Category: Mexican Markets

  • The Catrina, Mexico’s Iconic Legacy from José Guadalupe Posada

    Catrina Posada Autoretrato
    José Guadalupe Posada, born in early 1852 in the state of Aguascalientes, Mexico, developed his skill as an artist into a career as the foremost political cartoonist of his era, regularly skewering the high and mighty of late 19th century Mexico with his engravings.  His portrait (above), engraved by mid-20th century engraver Leopoldo Méndez, is a classic.

    Posada's satirical efforts started when he worked as a teenage apprentice in Aguascalientes.  His boss, José Trinidad Pedroza, assigned him the job of creating a finger-pointing cartoon depicting the misdeeds of a local politician.  His characterization was so successful that it created a tremendous hullabaloo in Aguascalientes; both Posada and Pedroza had to leave town in a hurry to avoid the politico's wrath.  When the tumult calmed down, the two printers returned to their work of exposing nefarious political goings-on. 

    Catrina Taller de Posada
    Posada, photographed around the turn of the 20th century, standing in the doorway of his Mexico City taller de grabado (engraving workshop).

    When Pedroza's Aguascalientes workplace was destroyed by a flood in 1888, Posada moved to Mexico City to open his own workshop.  After the move to the capital, Posada began publishing and distributing frequent volantes (flyers).  He used the medium to continue to puncture the egos and expose the foibles and serious crimes of government and social figures of the day.  During a time when many in Mexico were illiterate, the message of political cartoons could be easily understood even without reading the articles.  Many credit Posada with raising the political and social consciousness of the peón (common laborer), exposing social injustice at a time when most at that level were blind to it.

    Catrina First Drawing
    Posada's first published fashionably-hatted calavera (skull).  The cartoon is titled, "Big Sale of Grinning Skulls".  Over the course of the rest of his career, it is estimated that the prolific Posada published as many as 20,000 political volantes, at a penny apiece, including many thousands that were illustrated by calaveras.

    What was Posada's purpose in utilizing a skeleton–albeit a well-dressed skeleton–to illustrate his articles?  Mexico's president/dictator at the time, Porfirio Díaz, appreciated and aped all things French.  During his rule, known as the Porfiriato, Mexican government officials and high society alike dressed in the French mode, expressing what was known then and is known now as malinchismo: over-valuing foreign imports over Mexico's national products. The Frenchified calavera engraved by Posada is offered as a satirical portrait of those Mexican natives who, Posada felt, were aspiring to adopt European aristocratic traditions in Mexico's pre-revolutionary era. The irony of Posada’s drawing—a fabulously over-dressed skeleton—is that no matter what we’re wearing, we all end as bones.

    Catrina Posada El Jarabe
    El Jarabe en Ultratumba (Dancing Beyond the Grave).

    In Mexico, we play with, make fun of, and party with death. We throw our arms around her in a wickedly sardonic embrace and escape her return embrace with a zippy side-step, a wink, and a joke.  Every day is a dance with death.  Death is a woman who has a numerous affectionate and humorous nicknames: la Huesuda (the bony woman), la Seria (the serious woman), la Novia Fiel (the faithful bride), la Igualadora (the equalizer), la Dientona (the toothy woman), la Pelona (the bald woman), la Patrona (the boss lady), and a hundred more. She's always here, just around the next corner or right over there, behind that pillar.  She waits with patience, until later today or until twelve o'clock next Thursday, or sometime next year–but when it's time, she's right there to dance away with you at her side.

    Catrinas (large) Torres_edited-1
    In the fairly recent past, Posada's politicized calavera became known as la catrina, a figure now closely related to Mexico's celebration of Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).  Renowned Michoacán-based painter and sculptor Juan Torres CalderónMexico Cooks! good friend, was the first to present Posada's catrina vision in clay.  In 1982, his wife, Velia Canals, began production of Maestro Torres' catrina designs.  Their workshop in Capula, Michoacán, is open for sales to the public.

    The Mexican word catrina–the word now used for any representation of Posada's original French-attired calavera–simply means a woman who is dressed to the nines.  Her male counterpart is known as a catrín—a handsome man, usually dressed in elegant male attire. Together, the couple are catrines.  Even today, if you go out to a formal event, your neighbor (seeing you leave the house) might well say, “Uff, qué catrina!” Unless you’re a man, of course, in which case the neighbor would say, “Qué catrín!”.

    Catrina Pa?tzcuaro Catrinas Papel Mache?_edited-1
    These catrines are made of paper maché.  On the far right, you see a bride and groom.  Mexico Cooks!' kitchen shows off this same artisan's chef figure, in a green chef's jacket and a high white toque.  Enlarge any photo to have a better view.

    Catrina Panaderi?a Ortiz
    Some of the many Día de los Muertos figures displayed at the fabulous bakery Hornos de Los Ortíz, in Morelia, Michoacán.  The owner makes these gorgeous figures out of bread dough!  If you happen to be in Morelia in the next few weeks, DO NOT MISS this bakery and its annual display.  The owners, in a typical Mexican play on words, call the diorama a pan-teón: bread cemetery.

    Catrina Vestido Hojas de Ma?iz
    During the 2015 Noche de los Muertos events in Morelia's historic center, this young woman dressed in a skirt and hat made of totomoxtle (dried corn husks)–the husks normally used for making tamales.  Her mother made her outfit and painted her face.

    Catrina Maquillaje Nin?a
    During the last few years, many Mexican children and adults have begun to paint their faces for Día (and Noche) de Muertos.  The little girl in the chair lives in Opopeo, Michoacán, a small town not far from Morelia.  In the town square's bandstand, young people were designing a special face for each child who wanted one.

    Posada's century-old political calavera has evolved into one of Mexico's most beloved icons, the catrina.  When your friends ask you about her, be sure that they know the history behind this beautiful creature.  She's more than just a pretty face.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here to see new information: Tours

  • Mexico Cooks! Tours–Fabulous Food, Marvelous Markets, and So Much More

    Tours Maque Charola
    So many of you are nearly fanatical–and rightfully so–about Mexico's artisan-made goods!  The technique shown above, that incorporates hand-ground lacquers into beautiful designs and objects of all types, is famous in Michoacán.  The very best examples are for sale for only two weeks a year.  Let's go see!

    In the "ABOUT" section listed on the front page of Mexico Cooks! (up there in the right-hand corner, where it's easy to miss), I make mention of the highly personalized tours I frequently give for small groups.  Many of my readers have asked about planning a Mexico Cooks! tour for themselves and their friends.   Today, I've succumbed to your requests for more information about making Mexico Cooks! tour happen.

    Tours Jamaica Camioneta Flores Muertos
    Pulling into a Mexico City market with a truckload of newly cut cempazúchitl, pata de león, and nube–all flowers used during celebrations for Mexico's Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).  Come tour with Mexico Cooks! and we might be able to pull into the market right behind a truck like this.

    Entrada_sn_nombre
    Mexico Cooks!
    has been all over this enormous country since first living in Mexico more than 35 years ago.  Over all of that time, we've found a lot of hidden wonders, places rarely mentioned in guidebooks.  For example, a huge popsicle marks the entrance to this way-off-the-beaten-path town.  Why?  We can take you there to find out!

    El Farolito Tacos al Pastor 2
    Food–street food, market food, and restaurant food–makes up the majority of Mexico Cooks!' tours.  These are tacos al pastor (shepherd-style tacos), loved by everyone and allegedly invented in Mexico City.  Just tell the pastorero (the guy who prepares these), "Cuatro con todo, por favor," (four with everything, please), and get ready for a mix of flavors that no other meal provides. Chances are you'll want more than four!

    Coyoacn_la_luna
    This pale and luminous tile moon mural graces a fountain that is a must-see in Mexico City–we have to go!

    Minimum group size is two people, and I can accommodate up to seven tour participants for a day trip, a few-days' trip, or a longer adventure.

    All of the tours that I offer include the following:

    • my undivided attention for the duration of your tour
    • personalized tours to meet your special interests
    • extensive pre-planning to maximize your experience on tour
    • my 100% bilingual (English/Spanish) guide service
    • Cost of all meals taken as a group including Cristina's meal(s)

    Not included in the cost of your tour:

    • air transportation costs to/from and within Mexico
    • ground transportation to/from airports and/or bus stations
    • hotel accommodations and tips to hotel personnel
    • alcoholic beverages with meals or on your own
    • all food and all beverages consumed at non-tour meals or during "on your own" time
    • gratuity to Cristina (if you choose) at close of tour

    Huitlacoche 3
    Huitlacoche, freshly cut and ready to purchase at one of Mexico's most fascinating markets.  During the course of several years, clients and market vendors alike have discovered that when Mexico Cooks! takes a group to the market, the magic starts.  Expect plenty of tasting opportunities, tips on how to choose the best Mexican ingredients in the town where you live, and Cristina's tips on preparing Mexican dishes.

    Fresh Chiles_edited-1
    Do you see six varieties of fresh chiles?  Prepare to learn the differences among them at any of Mexico's markets.

    The myriad wonders of Mexico are too many to count, and too many to see in an entire lifetime.  If you've been here and want more, the "more" that most tourists never see, Mexico Cooks! will meet your needs.  Traveling with Mexico Cooks!, you have the opportunity to tailor-make the tour you want.  Nothing is pre-packaged.  Mexico Cooks! bases its tours on your ideas, your wants, your needs.

    Muertos Taco Carnitas
    Dear readers, what you see is ONE taco de carnitas, prepared by the vendor for my clients as a taste of his wares.  A taste.  Just seeing the photo makes my mouth water. When can we go?

    Ma?ximo Panna Cotta1
    Does an upscale restaurant meal better suit your style? We know the best places in Mexico City, the state of Michoacán, and the state of Oaxaca. You will be rolling your eyes with delight.

    If you have particular interests (artisan villages and handwork, churches and cathedrals, city and country markets [with or without a cooking class!], traditional Mexican food and ingredients in all their regional varieties, restaurants small and large, special fiestas and religious celebrations, and small regional museums, to list a few), Mexico Cooks! can show you more than you've dreamed of finding.

    Cristina Market Tour Pa?tzcuaro
    During this market tour in Michoacán, my clients learned about and, for the first time, tasted a fruit they'd never seen before: the mamey. They loved it, and if this will be your first time trying it, so will you. 

    Many of Mexico Cooks!' tours are focused on Mexico's high-altitude Central Highlands, where the weather is nearly always temperate: balmy and sunny during the day and refreshingly cool during the evening hours.  The best times for touring are mid-June through February.  March through late May are often uncomfortably warm and dry for daytime touring.  Come discover the cool joy of central Mexico in the summer.

    Frida Kallejera 2014
    During a Mexico City tour, we ran into Frida Kahlo–well, actually Frida Kallejera (uniquely-spelled street Frida)!  If we're lucky on your tour, we'll see her again.

    Tlacolula Bolsas de Pla?stico
    There's a market in Oaxaca that will just plain knock your socks off: colors, fragrances, sounds, the works, all are love at first sight.  It's my favorite market in all of Mexico, and I suspect you'll feel the same way.

    Stairway Bearded Guy
    Just wait!  With one turn of your head, you'll see the most unexpected things!  There's no place like Mexico–and no tour like a Mexico Cooks! tour.  Email me at patalarga@gmail.com to start making your plans.

    Buen viaje–Mexico Cooks! te espera!  (Have a great trip–Mexico Cooks! is waiting for you!)

  • Tradition and Authenticity: What Is *Real* Mexican Food?

    Originally published in a different format in 2007, this article has recently received a good bit of attention on social networks.  It bears re-publishing here.

    Chiles Rellenos Conde Pétatl
    "Real" Mexican chile relleno (stuffed, battered, and fried chile poblano), caldillo de jitomate (tomato broth), and frijoles negros (black beans).

    More and more people who want to experience "real" Mexican food are asking about the availability of authentic Mexican meals outside Mexico. Bloggers and posters on food-oriented websites have vociferously definite opinions on what constitutes authenticity. Writers' claims range from the uninformed (the fajitas at such-and-such a restaurant are totally authentic, just like in Mexico) to the ridiculous (Mexican cooks in Mexico can't get good ingredients, so Mexican meals prepared in the United States are superior to those in Mexico).

    Blind Men and Elephant
    Much of what I read about authentic Mexican cooking reminds me of that old story of the blind men and the elephant. "Oh," says the first, running his hands up and down the elephant's leg, "an elephant is exactly like a tree."  "Aha," says the second, stroking the elephant's trunk, "the elephant is precisely like a hose."  And so forth. If you haven't experienced what most posters persist in calling "authentic Mexican", then there's no way to compare any restaurant in the United States with anything that is prepared or served in Mexico. You're simply spinning your wheels.

    It's my considered opinion that there is no such thing as one definition of authentic Mexican. Wait, before you start hopping up and down to refute that, consider that "authentic" is generally what you were raised to appreciate. Your mother's pot roast is authentic, but so is my mother's. Your aunt's tuna salad is the real deal, but so is my aunt's, and they're not the least bit similar.

    Carne y Salsa Listo para Hornear
    Carne de puerco en salsa verde (pork meat in green sauce), my traditional recipe.

    The descriptor I use for many dishes is 'traditional'. We can even argue about  that adjective, but it serves to describe the traditional dish of–oh, say carne de puerco en chile verde–as served in the North of Mexico, in the Central Highlands, or in the Yucatán. There may be big variations among the preparations of this dish, but each preparation is traditional and each is authentic in its region.

    I think that in order to understand the cuisines of Mexico, we have to give up arguing about authenticity and concentrate on the reality of certain dishes.

    Chiles en Nogada
    A 200-year-old tradition in Mexico at this time of year: chiles en nogada (stuffed chiles poblano in a creamy sauce made with fresh (i.e., recently harvested) walnuts.  It's the Mexican flag on your plate: green chile, white sauce, and red pomegranates.

    Traditional Mexican cooking is not a hit-or-miss let's-make-something-for-dinner proposition based on "let's see what we have in the despensa (pantry)." Traditional Mexican cooking is as complicated and precise as traditional French cooking, with just as many hide-bound conventions as French cuisine imposes. You can't just throw some chiles and a glob of chocolate into a sauce and call it mole. You can't simply decide to call something Mexican salsa when it's not. There are specific recipes to follow, specific flavors and textures to expect, and specific results to attain. Yes, some liberties are taken, particularly in Mexico's new alta cocina (haute cuisine) and fusion restaurants, but even those liberties are based, we hope, on specific traditional recipes.

    In recent readings of food-oriented websites, I've noticed questions about what ingredients are available in Mexico. The posts have gone on to ask whether or not those ingredients are up to snuff when compared with what's available in what the writer surmises to be more sophisticated food sources such as the United States.

    Jamaica No Lo Piense Mucho
    Deep red, vine-ripened tomatoes, available all year long in central Mexico. The sign reads, "Don't think about it much–take a little kilo!"  At twelve pesos the kilo, these tomatos cost approximately $1.00 USD for 2.2 pounds.

    Surprise, surprise: most readily available fresh foods in Mexico's markets are even better than similar ingredients you find outside Mexico. Foreign chefs who tour with me to visit Mexico's stunning produce markets are inevitably astonished to see that what is grown for the ordinary home-cook user is fresher, more flavorful, more attractive, and much less costly than similar ingredients available in the United States.

    Pollo Listo para Caldo
    Chicken, ready for the pot.  Our Mexican chickens are generally fed ground marigold petals mixed into their feed–that's why the flesh is so pink, the skin so yellow, and the egg yolks are like big orange suns.

    It's the same with most meats: pork and chicken are head and shoulders above what you find in North of the Border meat markets. Fish and seafood are from-the-sea fresh and distributed within just a few hours of any of Mexico's coasts.

    Nevertheless, Mexican restaurants in the United States make do with the less-than-superior ingredients found outside Mexico. In fact, some downright delicious traditional Mexican meals can be had in some North of the Border Mexican restaurants. Those restaurants are hard to find, though, because in the States, most of what has come to be known as Mexican cooking is actually Tex-Mex cooking. There's nothing wrong with Tex-Mex cooking, nothing at all. It's just not traditional Mexican cooking.  Tex-Mex is great food from a particular region of the United States. Some of it is adapted from Mexican cooking and some is the invention of early Texas settlers. Some innovations are adapted from both of those points of origin.  Fajitas, ubiquitous on Mexican restaurant menus all over the United States, are a typical Tex-Mex invention.  Now available in Mexico's restaurants, fajitas are offered to the tourist trade as prototypically authentic. 

    You need to know that the best of Mexico's cuisines is not found in restaurants. It comes straight from somebody's mama's kitchen. Clearly not all Mexicans are good cooks, just as not all Chinese are good cooks, not all Italians are good cooks, etc. But the most traditional, the most (if you will) authentic Mexican meals are home prepared.

    DK Pensativa 2
    Diana Kennedy, UNAM 2011.  Mrs. Kennedy was at the Mexican Autonomous University to present her book, Oaxaca Al Gusto.

    That reality is what made Diana Kennedy who she is today: she took the time to travel Mexico, searching for the best of the best of the traditional preparations. For the most part, she didn't find them in fancy restaurants, homey comedores (small commercial dining rooms) or fondas (tiny working-class restaurants). She found them as she stood next to the stove in a home kitchen, watching Doña Fulana prepare comida (the midday main meal of the day) for her family.  She took the time to educate her palate, understand the ingredients, taste what was offered to her, and learn, learn, learn from home cooks before she started putting traditional recipes, techniques, and stories on paper. If we take the time to prepare recipes from any of Ms. Kennedy's many cookbooks, we too can experience her wealth of experience and can come to understand what traditional Mexican cooking can be.  Her books will bring Mexico's kitchens to you when you are not able to go to Mexico.

    Yoghurt 1
    Fresh Michoacán-grown strawberries, available all year in central Mexico.

    In order to understand the cuisines of Mexico, we need to experience their riches. Until that time, we can argue till the cows come home and you'll still be just another blind guy patting the beast's side and exclaiming how the elephant is mighty like a wall.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours

  • Corn: An Ancient Gift from Mexico to Feed the World

    Cueva ends of ears of corn 2
    At first glance, these appear to be flowers–but look closely: they're actually cross-sections of different varieties, sizes and colors of maíces nativos (native corn), grown continuously in Mexico for thousands of years, right up to the present time.  They're so beautiful–and delicious! Photo courtesy Tortilla de Maíz Mexicana.

    Cueva Conferencia Coapan_edited-1
    A few weeks ago, CONACULTA (Mexico's ministry of culture) invited Maestro Rafael Mier and Mexico Cooks! to speak about the preservation of traditional tortillas and about the milpa (millennia-old sustainable agricultural method still used in Mexico) at the Second Annual Festival Universo de la Milpa, held this year in Santa María Coapan, Puebla. Santa María Coapan, a part of the municipality of Tehuacán, is at the epicenter of the documented-to-date 11,000 year history of corn.

    Left to right in the photo: Maestra Teresa de la Luz Hilario, Regidora de Educación y Cultura de Santa María Coapan; Maestro Rafael Mier of Tortilla de Maíz Mexicana; Mexico Cooks!; (speaking) the humanitarian and life-long human rights abogada del pueblo (advocate for the people) Concepción Hernández Méndez; and at far right, Lic. Roberto G. Quintero Nava, Director General de Culturas Populares of Puebla, CONACULTA.  It was an honor to be part of this event and to meet its outstanding participants in this center of Mexican corn production. Photo courtesy Rafael Mier.

    Cueva Monumento al Mai?z 1
    In tiny Coxcatlán, Puebla (just down the highway on the road south out of Tehuacán), a main attraction is the monument to corn.  The legend at the base of the recently refurbished monument reads, "Coxcatlán, Cuna del Maíz (Cradle of Corn)".  All photos copyright Mexico Cooks! unless otherwise noted.

    From the small town of Coxcatlán, our driver took us about five kilometers further, south toward the Oaxaca border; there's a turnoff onto a dirt road at the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve.  The September 24, 2016 Mexico Cooks! article offers some fascinating general information about the biosphere.

    Cueva Bio?sfera Colina Rocosa 2
    If you didn't know to turn onto that poorly marked, narrow, and winding dirt road, you'd just keep whizzing along the highway, saying, "Nothing to see here, just a lot of big cactus and scrub trees.  The Oaxaca border is only 30 kilometers away, let's hurry so we get there before dark."  But this humble dirt road twists through a portion of an internationally important site marking the origin and development of agriculture in Mesoamerica and the world. Archeological research here has provided key information regarding the domestication of various species such as corn (Zea mays sp.), chile (Capsicum annuum), amaranth (Amaranthus sp.), avocado (Persea americana), squash (Cucurbita sp.), bean (Phaseolus sp.), and numerous other plants that are with us still in the modern era. This biosphere is home to just under 3000 kinds of native flora plus the largest collection of columnar cacti in the world.  In addition, the biosphere contains approximately 600 species of vertebrate animals.  Let's not hurry–let's spend some time here.

    Cueva Richard MacNeish
    Archeologist Richard S. MacNeish (April 29, 1918-January 16, 2001).  In 1965, Dr. MacNeish and a group of his colleagues first uncovered the agricultural treasures in the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán biosphere.  Their excavation resulted in some of the most significant agricultural finds in the world.  A statue in his memory is prominent today in Tehuacán.  Dr. MacNeish, one of the most outstanding archaeologists of the Americas, developed innovative field methods that allowed him and his teams of co-archaeologists, anthropologists, sociologists, agronomists, and others to use science rather than educated guesswork to locate potentially important sites for excavation.  Other than his discoveries in this biosphere, which are crucial to our understanding of Mesoamerican agriculture and settlement, his greatest legacy is probably his influence on and encouragement of students, other archaeologists, and the multitude of scientific professionals with whom he worked.  Photo of Dr. MacNeish courtesy LibraryThing.

    My good friend and colleague Rafael Mier, founder of Tortilla de Maíz Mexicana (by all means join the Facebook group), had talked a good while with me about his desire to visit the site where, over 50 years ago, Dr. MacNeish documented the remains of ancient corn.  The more we talked about going to the cave, the more my heart raced: We were going to visit one of the places in Mexico where corn was born. Where corn was born.  I felt that the trip would be much more than a Sunday drive in the country: it felt like a pilgrimage, to the most basic food destination in Mexico. To the origin of everything.   

    La Lagunilla Teocintle Dije
    The extremely ancient peoples of what is now Mexico domesticated a native wild-growing plant called teocintle, which over the course of many years became what we know today as corn. Teocintle–the photo above is a seed head of the plant, harvested in 2015 in the State of Mexico and framed in sterling silver–is a grass similar to rice in that the grains grow and mature as a cluster of individuals, on a stalk. A mazorca (seed head) of teocintle has no center structure; no cob, if you will.  One of the primary features that distinguishes corn from teocintle is the cob. Scientists tracked the domestication of teocintle from the wild grain to its semi-domesticated state, and from semi-domestication to the incredible variety of native Mexican corns that we know today.  The actual teocintle seed head in the photo measures approximately three inches long.  What you see in my hand is the million-times-over great-grandfather, the ancient ancestor of corn.

    Cueva Rafa Cristina Gustavo
    The mouth of la Cuna del Maíz Mexicano (the cradle of Mexican corn).  I grew up in the southern United States, where I knew a few caves.  I had expected to see a cave along the lines of Wyandotte Caves in Indiana, or Mammoth Cave in Kentucky: huge, multi-room caverns in which a person can walk along seeing rivers, stalagmites, stalactites, and other underground cave formations.  Not here; this cave is simply what you see in the photograph, a sheltering karst-formation in the limestone, a pre-historic bubble.  Standing in this spot gave me chills, and simply thinking about it while looking at the photograph now makes a shiver run up my spine.  Out here in the vastness of this ancient natural world, in some ways so similar to the primitive world into which corn was born, one forgets about the crowded city, one forgets about modern problems, and one returns both mentally and spiritually to another time and to a connection with those Stone Age people who gave us the gift of corn, the true staff of life in much of today's world.

    This shelter, according to years-long archeological research by Dr. MacNeish and others, was used as a camp, as a shelter during the rainy season for as many as 25 to 30 people, and as a post-harvest storage place for corn and other native vegetables (corn, beans, chiles, etc). Families, bands of families, and tribes living in or traveling through the Coxcatlán area used this type shelter for 10,000 years or more, primarily during the time in Mesoamerica that is analogous to the Archaic archeological period: approximately 5000 to 3400 BCE. Dr. MacNeish's extensive research showed more than 42 separate occupations, 28 habitation zones, and seven cultural phases in this cave.

    Olotito Fosilizado
    At the Museo del Maíz (Corn Museum) in Tehuacán, there is a small display of the original dehydrated corn cobs and utensils found in the cave in the biosphere. This tiny cob measures less than one inch long.

    Cueva Museo Olotes Fo?siles Rafa
    These dehydrated cobs, also found in the cave, are quite a bit larger and probably somewhat younger than the tiny one in the photo above. They measure between 2 and 3 inches long.  Some ancient fingers plucked this corn from its stalk, some long-ago woman–she must have been a woman–removed the kernels from the cobs and prepared food.  How similar the growing methods, how similar what they ate, those people who created corn from a wild plant.  Corn, beans, chiles, squash, amaranth, avocado: all served up in some way for millennia-past meals, and all available in Mexico's markets today.  What foods do you eat that nourished your Stone Age forebears? How precious it is to know and taste the flavors of eleven thousand years worth of comidas (Mexico's main meal of the day)! 
     
    In addition to the important finding of dehydrated corn cob specimens (nearly 25,000 samples) and other kinds of vegetables in the substrata of the Tehuacán cave, Dr. MacNeish and subsequent archeologists found a large number of ancient tools such as chipped-flint darts used for hunting, grinding stones, and coas (pointed sticks used for planting).  The investigators also found approximately 100 samples of human feces, which were examined to document the human diet of those long-ago days.  Thanks to carbon dating, a method of determining the age of organic objects which was developed in the 1940s, scientists were and continue to be able to assign dates to ancient artifacts.

    2 La Planta del Hombre de Mai?z Mural Templo Rojo Cacaxtla, Tlaxcala
    Part of a mural found in ruins dating to 650-900 AD in Cacaxtla, Tlaxcala.  Click on the photograph to enlarge it; you'll see that what initially appear to be ears of corn are in fact a part of Mexico's creation myth: humankind is born of corn, and corn is born of humankind.  Corn, which humankind created in the domestication process, cannot in fact exist without a human helping hand to husk it, take the dried kernels from the cob, and plant those kernels for subsequent harvest.  Aside from wheat and rice, corn is the single-most planted grain in the world; there are countries and regions where humans could not exist without corn.

    Mexicano mai?z palomero 2
    This tiny mazorca (dried ear of corn) is maíz palomero: (popcorn, scientific name Zaya mays everta), native to Mexico, the only kind of corn in the world that pops.  Maíz palomero is believed by many scientists to have been the first corn. Today, this original corn is tragically all but extinct in Mexico.  My colleague Maestro Rafael Mier, who lives in Mexico City, wanted to plant it; he contacted a number of possible sources without locating any seed at all. He ultimately called a seed bank in another Mexican state to see if they had some.  They did, and they took seeds out of their freezer bank so that he could sow them on his property. His goal is to begin the reversal of the extinction of this original Mexican corn. This wee ear of popcorn, the standard size for this variety, is just about four inches long. Look how beautiful it is, with its crystalline white and golden triangular kernels. 

    Diversidad-Genetica-de-Maiz--CYMMIT
    Mexico still grows and cooks with 59 different varieties of native corns, corns that are essential to the regions in which they grow.  A type of native corn that grows well in the state of Tamaulipas, for example, will probably not produce as well in Oaxaca.  Nor will a native corn that is easily produced in the state of Guerrero grow well in the state of Coahuila.  Climates differ, altitudes differ, soils differ: all impact Mexico's native corns.  If you click on the poster to enlarge it, you'll see how very, very different Mexico's 59 corn varieties are from one another. Click on any photo to enlarge it for a better view.  Photo courtesy CIMMYT.

    Tlaxcala Mai?ces
    These multi-colored mazorcas are native to the Mexican state of Tlaxcala, the smallest state in the República.

    Elote Rojo Pa?tzcuaro
    These elotes (ears of freshly harvested young corn) are native to the state of Michoacán.

    Recorrido Elotes y Granos
    These large fresh ears are elotes from the State of México, for sale earlier this summer at Mexico City's Mercado de Jamaica.

    Cueva Mazorcas Chiapas
    And finally, these mazorcas are native to the far-southern state of Chiapas.

    Chinese_word_for_crisis.svg copy

    Mexico knows itself as 'the people of the corn'.  Mexico knows that sin maíz no hay país–without corn, there is no country.  Right now, Mexico is at a crisis point, the point of preserving its heritage of corn–or allowing that heritage to be lost to the transnational producers of uniform, high-yielding, genetically modified corn that is not Mexico's corn.  The Chinese characters in the photo mean crisis, defined as both danger and opportunity. Which word will Mexico choose to safeguard its heritage and frame its future?   I take my stand on the side of the 11,000 year history that defines us.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours. 
     

  • The Astonishing Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve in Southeastern Mexico

    Cueva Biosfera desde la Cueva
    This is a tiny part of the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere near the town of Coxcatlán, Puebla.  Many huge columnar cardón cactus are visible through the trees and shrubs. An all but unmarked entrance to this section of the biosphere is approximately five kilometers from Coxcatlán. The dirt road into the biosphere is in relatively good shape during this part of the year when it rains very little.  The greenery and hills looked at first like any other part of rural Mexico, but what I saw and learned here excited me enormously.

    Roadrunner 2
    As we wound slowly along the dirt road, we saw a roadrunner skitter across our path and into the undergrowth; even our old-hand guide to the reserve was excited!  He said it was really unusual to get to see this elusive bird.  I'd previously seen two or three of them near Albuquerque, but never in Mexico.  The roadrunner ran across the road so fast that his legs truly looked like they were spinning in circles, just like the famous cartoon.  He was far too quick for me to take his picture from the car; thank you Joe Schelling for the use of this wonderful image.

    Cueva Flor de Un?a de Gato Cuna del Mai?z
    The bottlebrush-shaped flower of the senegalia greggii (uña de gato, or cat's claw acacia) bush.  The plant is said to be medicinal. While walking a short, sandy, uphill trail, I slipped, fell on my posterior, and an insect stung me there several times, and quite painfully.

    Un?a de gato thorns
    Leaves, branches, and cat-claw shaped thorns of the uña de gato tree. One of the men in our party cut two thin, 3" long pieces of a green branch of uña de gato and told me to put one little stick behind each ear, the way you'd put a pencil behind your ear, to take away the pain of the stings. I followed instructions and little by little the pain diminished. Would it have lessened anyway?  Probably, but I've learned to say 'yes' to most possibilities in Mexico. I never want to miss anything!

    Cardo?n Cactus Coxatla?n 8-2016 2
    Meet the cardón cactus (Pachycereus pringlei), which grows prolifically in the Tehuacán biosphere.  It is the tallest cactus species in the world and an enormous specimen such as this one can weigh as much as 25 tons. The cardón bears a delicious fruit. Woodpeckers drill into its columns to make their nests and small animals also invade them for shelter.  This particular columnar giant in its prime of life is approximately 20 meters (nearly 70 feet) tall. Its rate of growth?  Just a smidge over two centimeters per year. Its age?  You do the math. Clue: its lifespan is measured in hundreds of years.

    Cueva Lantana Cuna del Mai?z
    This common ornamental–you might even have one growing in your garden–is lantana.  It's so widespread that most of us don't know that it is native to Mexico, particularly to semi-arid and tropical regions.  It grows wild in the biosphere.  Between its orange and yellow flowers, the varied greens of bushes and trees, and the white and pink flowers of the uña de gato, the underbrush glows like the colors on an artist's palette.

    Pochote
    The tall pochote tree, native to Mexico and sacred to the Maya, looks as if it is wearing an exotic armor of fearsome thorns, but in reality they are merely protuberances similar in texture to cork.  I noticed that one of our companions, a guide to the biosphere, had hitched himself partway up the trunk and was breaking some of them off the tree; just before I asked him to take one or two for me, he slid down and put five of them into my hand.  How lovely that he read my mind!  

    Another of our guide companions explained that the pochote is host to a kind of worm called cuetla, which is about ten centimeters (four inches) long and relatively thick through the body.  The cuetlas are harvested, roasted or fried, and eaten; they are allegedly quite tasty and are thought of as a delicacy.  The bulbous roots of the tree store substantial water; the roots can be dug up and chewed to quench thirst.

    Cueva Pochote Spines 2
    The five pochote spines, with some other tiliches (tchotchkes, stuff) on the top shelf of a miniature trastero (literally, dish cupboard) in my kitchen. The tallest one, far left, measures about two inches high.

    Cueva algodon-y-fruta-del-pochote
    The pods of the pochote, about six to eight inches long, are filled with a very light, cottony, fibrous material that can be used to stuff pillows.  The pochote fibers, known in English as kapok, were at one time used to stuff life vests.

    Cueva mica
    Mica, a silicate mineral found everywhere in the world, is abundant in the biosphere.  Our small group noticed light glinting from what we thought were numerous but ordinary stones on the sandy paths.  Our guides immediately told us that the 'stones' were mica.  They seemed almost magical, reflecting the strong light of the summer sun.  Photo courtesy Google Images.

    Readers, you know that Mexico Cooks! ordinarily follows a path that leads to something of culinary interest.  Going to the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán biosphere reserve was no exception.  Be sure to come back next week, when you'll read about why we were so intent upon this particular destination. Trust me when I tell you that this was one of the most exciting days I've ever spent in Mexico.  Don't miss it!

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  • Chiles en Nogada for September 16: Mexico’s Independence Day: The Mexican Flag on Your Plate

    Chiles en Nogada
    Chiles en nogada (stuffed chiles poblanos in walnut sauce), Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.  Photo by Mexico Cooks!.

    Mexico celebrates its independence the entire month of September with parades, parties, and traditional food and drink in restaurants and at home.  The traditional festive dish during the weeks before and after the Independence Day holiday is chiles en nogada, a magnificent tribute to the seasonal availability of granadas (pomegranates) and nuez de castilla (freshly harvested walnuts). From late August till early October, fresh pomegranates and walnuts make chiles en nogada possible.  Spicy chiles poblano, stuffed with picadillo and topped with richly creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, flaunt the brilliant green, white and red of the Mexican flag. 

    This festive dish is traditionally served on September 15 or 16 in honor of Mexico's Independence Day, though it is popular anytime in the late summer and fall. During August and September in the highlands of Mexico, particularly in Mexico City and Puebla on the streets bordering the markets, village women can be seen sitting on blankets painstakingly peeling off the brown skin from each individual walnut. It is important to use the freshest walnuts possible, as they produce such a creamy, rich sauce that it is worth the effort demanded to peel them.  Yes, the recipe is time-consuming…but you and your guests will jump up and shout "VIVA!" when they've licked the platters clean.  

    Ingredientes

    Ingredients

    For the Meat  

    • 2 pounds beef brisket or other stew meat or 1 pound beef and 1 pound pork butt 
    • 1 small white onion, quartered 
    • 2 large cloves garlic 
    • about 1 Tbsp sea salt

     For the Picadillo   

    • 4 Tbsp safflower or canola oil
    • 1/3 cup chopped white onion
    • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
    • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • 1/8 tsp ground cloves
    • 3 heaping Tbsp raisins
    • 1 or 2 chiles serrano, finely minced
    • 4 Tbsp chopped walnuts 
    • 4 Tbsp slivered blanched almonds
    • 2 Tbsp chopped biznaga (candied cactus)
    • 1 fresh pear, peeled and chopped
    • 1 apple, peeled and chopped
    • 4 ripe peaches, peeled and diced
    • 3 large, ripe tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
    • sea salt to taste

    Chiles_poblanos

    For the Chiles 

    • 6 fresh chiles poblanos, roasted, peeled, and seeded, leaving the stem intact   

     For the Nogada (Walnut Sauce)   

    • 1 cup fresh walnuts 
    • 6 ounces queso doble crema or cream cheese (not fat free) at room temperature 
    • 1-1/2 cups crema mexicana or 1-1/4 cups sour cream thinned with milk 
    • about 1/2 tsp sea salt or to taste
    • 1 Tbsp sugar   
    • 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 cup dry sherry (optional)

     Granadas

    For the Garnish  

    • 1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
    • 1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds 

    Method

    Cut the meat into large chunks, removing any excess fat. Place the meat into a large Dutch oven with the onion, garlic, and salt. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that collects on the surface. Lower the heat and allow the water to simmer about 45 minutes, until the meat is just tender. Take the pot off the stove and let the meat cool in the broth. Remove the pieces of meat and finely shred them. 

    Warm the oil in a large, heavy skillet and sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat until they turn a pale gold. Stir in the shredded meat and cook for five minutes. Add the cinnamon, pepper, and cloves, then, stir in the raisins, the two tablespoons of chopped walnuts. Add the chopped pear, apple, biznaga, and mix well. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste, and continue cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture has evaporated. Stir often so that the mixture doesn't stick. Let cool, cover, and set aside. The picadillo may be made a day or two in advance. 

    Make a slit down the side of each chile, just long enough to remove the seeds and veins. Keep the stem end intact. Drain the chiles, cut side down, on paper towels until completely dry. Cover and set aside. The chiles may be prepared a day in advance. 

    At least three hours in advance, put the walnuts in a small pan of boiling water. Remove from the heat and let them sit for five minutes. Drain the nuts and, when cool, rub off as much of the dark skin as possible. Chop into small pieces. Place the nuts, cream cheese, crema, and salt in a blender and purée thoroughly. Stir in the optional sugar, cinnamon, and sherry until thoroughly combined. Chill for several hours.  Biznaga cristalizada
    Candied biznaga cactus, ready to be diced for the filling.

    Preheat the oven to 250ºF. When ready to serve, reheat the meat filling and stuff the chiles until they are plump and just barely closed. Put the filled chiles, covered, to warm slightly in the oven. After they are thoroughly heated, place the chiles (cut side down) on a serving platter or on individual plates, cover with the chilled walnut sauce, and sprinkle with the cilantro (or parsley) and pomegranate seeds. 

    Azul Histo?rico Chile en Nogada
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Azul Histórico, Mexico City.

    This dish may also be served at room temperature, or it may be served chilled. It is rarely if ever served hot. 

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  • Michoacán’s Own Soup: The Origins of Sopa Tarasca, Hidden in the Mist of Time

    Camino a Senguio, 23-08-08
    North-central Michoacán is frequently and with much reason called paradise on earth.  Autumn's wildflowers, ripening corn, green mountains, and a partly cloudy sky combine to give you the sense that 'paradise on earth' just might be exactly where you are: in this case, near Senguio, Michoacán.

    The state of Michoacán is well-known both for its lovely scenery and its even more lovely–and delicious–regional cooking.  The indigenous Purépecha kitchen, in particular, is Mexico Cooks!' favorite.  If you look back at the Mexico Cooks! archives (found listed on the right-hand side of this page), you'll see many, many articles about this marvelous cuisine, which dates back to pre-Hispanic days.  

    Misnamed "Tarascos" by unknowing 16th century Spanish invaders, the Purépecha have, just within the last 25 to 30 years, largely reclaimed their actual tribal name. Nonetheless, one of the most popular dishes in the Michoacán culinary repertoire bears the name sopa tarasca (Tarascan Soup).

    Tzintzuntzan Frijolitos al Fogón
    Not precisely traditional, but certainly not modern, this pot of beans is cooking over a wood fire built in a deep tire rim in an open patio in Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán.

    You might well ask, "Sopa tarasca must be a pre-Hispanic dish, right?"  Or maybe, "Sopa tarasca was first made for her family by a long-ago Purépecha housewife, no?"  Over the course of years, most people who have eaten and fallen in love with this remarkably delicious and filling soup have asked me these same questions.  Much to their surprise, the answer is always, "No…but let me tell you the story I know."

    Plaza Chica Pátzcuaro con Torre
    Once upon a time, before Mexico Cooks! was born, the small plaza in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán looked like the above photo.  Part of the two-story building with the arches, just to the right of the photo's center, became the home of the Hostería de don Felipe, which had a dining room to serve its guests. Later, the Hostería was renamed Gran Hotel.  In the 1960's, Rafael García Correa was a young cook in the Gran Hotel kitchen.

    Don Rafa Luis Jiménez
    When I met Rafael García Correa in 1982, he was the head of the kitchen at the Gran Hotel.  The photo above, taken in 2004 by Luis Jiménez of the New York Times during an interview where I was present, is don Rafa (don is an honorific title given to a revered older man) showing us a bowl of sopa tarasca in the foreground, along with a plate of corundas (a kind of Michoacán tamal).

    Don Rafa told me that in the mid-1960s, he himself, along with the hotel's then-owner and the owner's American wife, invented a dish that, once offered to the public, became an almost instant classic: sopa tarasca was born, not created in an indigenous kitchen but for a tourist hotel's dining room. Today, we'd call that cocina de autor: the cook's invention.

    Sopa Tarasca Lu Morelia
    Sopa tarasca as served at Lu Cocina Michoacana in Morelia.  Read more about the restaurant here.

    Sopa Tarasca Hotel La Soledad
    Sopa tarasca as served at the Hotel de la Soledad, Morelia.  Some sopa tarasca is based on beans; some, like don Rafa's, is not.

    Was don Rafa the inventor?  He swore his story is true.  He also gave me a hand-written recipe which he promised is the original.  Don Rafa passed away a few years ago, and any possible secrets of sopa tarasca's origins were buried with him.

    Don Rafa reported that sopa tarasca was served for the first time as part of a Pátzcuaro wedding banquet, on May 8, 1965.  Years later, he opened his own restaurant near Plaza Gertrudis Bocanegra (the plaza chica) in Pátzcuaro. If you go to the restaurant, you can still enjoy a bowl of his own sopa tarasca.

    Today, sopa tarasca is a Michoacán icon, prepared in almost every restaurant around Lake Pátzcuaro as well as in further-flung establishments.  It's one of those you-have-to-try-it local dishes that people who know you've been to Michoacán will ask you about: did you taste it at so-and-so's restaurant?  How about at this other place, did you like it there?

    Sopa Tarasca Estilo Mansión Iturbide
    Sopa tarasca as served at Pátzcuaro's Mansión Iturbe, a hotel and restaurant.
    Click on any picture to see a larger view.

    Fortunately, sopa tarasca is a relatively easy soup to prepare at home.  The ingredients should be readily available, if not in your nearby supermarket then at a Mexican market not far from you.  The recipe I offer you here is don Rafa's, but there are others (notably an excellent one from Diana Kennedy) that are available either in books or on the Internet.

    Sopa Tarasca Alma Cervantes
    Sopa tarasca as served by chef Alma Cervantes Cota at Restaurante Azul y Oro Ingeniería, UNAM, Mexico City.

    Sopa Tarasca Don Rafael García

    Ingredients
    500 grams tomato purée
    2 tortillas
    5 corn tortillas, cut into very thin strips and fried until crisp
    100 grams chile pasillo, cut into thin strips and fried until just crisp.  Be very careful not to burn the chiles, they fry quickly and burn in the blink of an eye.
    250 grams Mexican table cream
    100 grams Oaxaca cheese, shredded
    50 grams all-purpose flour
    100 grams unsalted butter
    1 clove garlic
    1 small white onion
    10 cups rich chicken stock
    Worcestershire sauce to taste 
    Salt and pepper to taste
    1 sprig fresh thyme
    1 sprig fresh marjoram or oregano
    2 bay leaves

    Preparation
    In a heavy pot, prepare a roux with the butter and flour, stirring constantly so that no lumps form.  Allow to cook until the roux is a deep caramel color.

    In a blender, liquify the two tortillas listed, some of the fried chiles, and the onion. Add this mixture to the roux and continue stirring until it is well incorporated. Next, add the tomato purée, the chicken broth, the herbs, and salt and pepper to taste.  Add half a teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce and taste; if you think more is needed, add bit by bit.  Allow to simmer for 15 minutes.

    Put equal amounts of the soup into each of 10 bowls.  Garnish with fried tortilla strips, fried chile ancho or negro, some Oaxaca cheese, and some cream.  You can add some cubed avocado and a few sprigs of cilantro.  Take your cues from the photos I've included in this article. 

    SopaTarasca Fancy
    Sopa tarasca, garnished in this serving with fried shredded tortillas and fried shredded chile pasilla.

    Serves 10.

    Provecho!

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  • Zarzamora or Tzitún? In Michoacán, They’re All Blackberries and All Delicious!

    Yoghurt 11 Zarza
    Blackberries are one of the staples of the Mexico Cooks! kitchen.  In season nearly year-round, Mexico's blackberries are commercially grown primarily in the state of Michoacán.  I'm crushing this bowlful of delicious blackberries with Splenda® and a pinch of salt to add to breakfast yoghurt.  Wild blackberries (in the Purépecha language, tzitún) still grow in the oak and pine forests of Michoacán.

    In 1994, the commercially cultivated blackberry first arrived in the area around Los Reyes, Michoacán.  High in the mountains, Los Reyes offered a perfect climate for the Brazos variety of erect blackberries.  Originally, the commercial growers planted only three hectáreas (about 6 acres) of berries.   Developed at Texas A&M University and introduced in 1959, 'Brazos' has been the Texas standard for years and is still a great variety. The berries are large and the plants produce heavily.  In Michoacán, this variety starts ripening early in May.  The berries are a little acid and are better for cooking and canning than fresh eating. This variety has more thorny plants and larger seeded fruit than many of the improved varieties.  In fact, the blackberries offered in Mexico's markets are huge, about an inch long by half an inch in diameter–as big as the ball of my thumb.

    Cobbler Blackberries on the Hoof
    Brazos blackberries 'on the hoof'.

    Since those 1994 beginnings, local growers have learned a tremendous amount about the cultivation of blackberries.  Today, the fruit fields cover more than 4,500 hectáreas in the area of Los Reyes, Tocumbo, and Peribán–almost all in the west-central highlands of Michoacán.  The 2009 production reached a weight of 30,000 tons of blackberries–tons!  Ninety percent of those were exported to the United States, the primary foreign market.  The rest of those exported went to Europe and Japan.  This quantity of blackberries represents 95% of those grown in Michoacán and 90% of those grown anywhere in Mexico.  This rinconcito (tiny corner) of Mexico produces more blackberries than anywhere else in the world.  Fortunately, enough of Michoacán's blackberries stay in Mexico to satisfy its population.

    Cobbler Blackberries
    Recently Mexico Cooks! was unable to find unsweetened, unflavored yoghurt in our neighborhood shops–and there was nearly a kilo (2.2 pounds) of blackberries in the refrigerator that needed to be eaten immediately.  They had been destined for a week's worth of breakfasts, but one morning se me prendió el foco (the light bulb went on in my brain) and I thought: COBBLER!  In the bowl is the entire amount of berries, mixed with sugar, the juice and some grated zest of a limón (key lime), and a bit of cornstarch.

    Cobbler Assorted Ingredients
    Blackberry cobbler, as you might have guessed, is not in the standard Mexican food repetoire.  However, when all of the ingredients are grown or made in Mexico, maybe it should be.  In the photo are salt, baking powder, an egg, two limones, standard-grade sugar, milk, and freshly rendered pork lard.  Lard, so shoot me!

    Cobbler Buttered Pan
    Pre-heat the oven to 425ºF and butter a baking dish.  In this instance, I used an 8" square glass baking dish.

    Cobbler Blackberries in Pan
    Scoop the blackberry mixture into the pan and gently even it out.

    Cobbler Measuring Shortening
    Measure the shortening (you can use solid vegetable shortening if you prefer not to use lard).  I always use the displacement method to measure solid shortening: for this 1/4 cup of lard, I started with 1 3/4 cups of cold water in this clear measuring cup.  I added lard until the water rose to the two-cup level, then emptied out the water.  Bingo, 1/4 cup of lard and no mess.

    Cobbler Shortening and Flour
    The flour mixture that will become the dough for topping the cobbler.  You see the lard on top of the flour mixture, ready to be worked into it.

    Cobbler Shortening and Flour Finished
    The flour mixture should look like this when you finish working the lard into it.

    Cobbler Milk and Egg
    Break an egg into the milk and beat with a fork till blended.

    Cobbler Ready for Oven
    The cobbler, topped with raw dough and ready for the oven.  Sprinkle the raw dough with sugar to give it a finished look after baking.  The cornstarch that I mixed with the raw blackberries and sugar thickens the juices as the cobbler bakes.

    Cobbler Ready to Eat
    Bake the cobbler for about half an hour, or until the dough is light golden brown.  Your house will smell heavenly!

    Here's the entire recipe:

    Blackberry Cobbler
    Ingredients
    4-6 cups fresh blackberries
    3/4 cup sugar, divided use
    1 Tbsp lemon juice
    zest of 1/2 lemon
    1 Tbsp cornstarch

    2 cups all-purpose flour
    1/4 tsp salt
    1 Tbsp baking powder
    1/4 cup shortening–in this instance, lard
    4 Tbsp butter
    1 whole egg
    1/2 cup milk

    Preparation
    Preheat your oven to 425ºF.

    Butter the glass baking dish.  Mix blackberries, 1/2 cup sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice, and lemon zest in a large mixing bowl.  Reserve.

    In a separate bowl, mix the flour, salt, baking powder, and 1 or 2 Tbsp sugar.  Add the shortening and butter and work them into the flour with your fingers, until the mixture looks like fairly coarse corn meal. 

    Measure 1/2 cup milk into a large measuring cup; break the egg into the milk.  Beat with a fork until well blended.  Pour the milk/egg mixture into the flour/shortening mixture and stir until smooth.  The dough should not be sticky; if you need to add more flour, start with just an additional tablespoon.  When the dough is smooth but still quite damp, it's ready.

    Pour the blackberry mixture into the glass baking dish and gently even out the berries with your fingers.  Put large spoonfuls of dough all over the berries, leaving some small spaces on top for the juice to bubble through.  Flatten the dough a little–use your fingers, and don't worry about how it looks.  Sprinkle the top of the dough with a tablespoon or two of sugar.

    Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes.  A serving of your cobbler, topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, will look like this–truly a thing of beauty.

    Cobbler Serving Dessert
    The finished product: blackberry cobbler, hot out of the oven and topped with rich real-cream vanilla ice cream.

    What could be better for dessert–a taste of Mexican blackberries, from a recipe straight out of your grandmother's kitchen! 

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  • A Simple Mexican Classic :: Rajas con Crema, Chile Poblano Strips with Cream

    Chile Poblano
    The chile poblano is one of the most commonly used fresh chiles in Mexico's kitchen.  A very large, fleshy chile, it can measure as much as seven or eight inches long.  The stem end is much wider than the point, and the color ranges from dark green to almost black-green. Shopping tip: if you buy chiles poblano that are flat on all sides, they will roast more quickly than if they are deeply creased in spots.  The flat sides will evenly touch the roasting surface.

    The chile poblano is commonly used for preparing main dishes such as chiles rellenos, including the seasonal and festive chiles en nogada.  It is also used for making rajas de chile poblano con crema (strips of chile poblano with cream), a marvelously flavorful vegetable side dish.  All photos by Mexico Cooks! unless otherwise noted.

    Rajas Poblano Asado Maura
    To prepare chiles poblano for use in any recipe, wash and roast them.  Don't try to use them with the peel on; the peels will be as tough as trying to chew through plastic.  Mexico Cooks! uses a cast iron comal (griddle) placed over a high flame to roast as many as four to six chiles at a time.  Other cooks prefer to roast these chiles one at a time over an open flame, or on a broiler pan in a slightly open oven. No matter which roasting method you use, the roasted chiles should look like the ones in the above photo.  Photo courtesy Maura Hernández.

    Once the chiles are roasted, put them in a plastic bag, twist it shut, and allow the chiles to 'sweat' for 10 to 15 minutes.  You'll easily be able to remove the blackened peels.  It's best not to rinse them–or rinse them only a little–as rinsing removes a good bit of the delicious chile poblano flavor.  

    Rajas Chiles Asados y Pelados
    After you have peeled your roasted chiles, they will look like this.  If just a bit of toasted peel sticks to the chile, it will simply add another layer of flavor to your dish.  Click on the photo to enlarge and better see the remaining blackened bits of peel.

    Rajas Chile Abierto con Semilla
    Make a slit down the full length of each chile and cut off its stem end.  Remove the seeds by brushing them into a trash receptacle.

    Rajas Chiles Asados Pelados y Limpios
    Chiles poblano, roasted, peeled, and laid flat on a cutting board.  The next step is to slice them into strips–rajas, in Spanish.

    Rajas Chiles ya en Rajas
    Rajas, ready to prepare and serve.  For this meal, Mexico Cooks! used three large chiles to prepare a side dish for two people.

    Rajas Chile Morrón y Ceballo en Sartén
    The ingredients include half a white onion, sliced very thin, and about one-third of a large sweet red pepper, diced. Sauté in hot oil until soft and translucent.  Mexican cooks normally use fresh corn kernels in this recipe; I happened to have part of a sweet red pepper that needed to be cooked, so I used that instead.

    Rajas Chile Morrón con Cebolla Acitronado
    Peppers and onions, ready for the addition of the chile strips!

    Rajas Chiles etc a Cocinar
    Continue to sauté the vegetables until the chiles are soft.  Because the chile strips are already roasted, the sauté process will not take long.  You do not want your rajas to be over-cooked; they should still be bright green at the end of cooking.

    Rajas Poner la Crema
    Add about half a cup of crema para la mesa (Mexican table cream or creme fraiche–NOT sour cream) to the vegetable mix.  Stir until well incorporated. 

    Rajas Ya con Crema
    The cream will become a thick sauce for the vegetables.  Salt to taste.  The chile poblano is generally quite mild and flavorful, but once in a while you will come across one that is surprisingly spicy.  There's no way to tell by looking at them whether they are mild or hot, and either way they're delicious and not overly 'hot'.

    Rajas con Pollo en Plato
    Mexico Cooks! served the rajas de chile poblano con crema alongside strips of a very large chicken breast, lightly dusted with salted flour and sautéed in olive oil seasoned with a smashed clove of garlic.  This chicken breast half, which weighed nearly a pound, made ten strips and was plenty for the two of us for our main meal of the day.  This simple meal was easy and delicious.

    Provecho! (Good eating!)

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  • What’s the Real Story on Mexico’s Mealtimes? It’s Time for Comida, Mexico’s Main Meal of the Day

    Entrada
    A stylized modern entrada (appetizer), served at Restaurante Quintonil in Mexico City.  

    Mexico's main meal of the day is comida, which is eaten sometime between two and five o'clock in the afternoon.  Prime time for comida is three o'clock; in many places all over the República, businesses still respect the old-time rule that closes business doors during mid-afternoon meal time.  In fact, unless the business mentions that it observes horario corrido (continuous work day) you can assume that from two until at least four in the afternoon, its doors are closed to business.  Its workday is from 10:00AM to 2:00PM and from 4:00PM to 8:00PM.

    Azul Histórico 5 Crema de Cilantro
    Crema de cilantro (cream of cilantro soup).  The soup course comes after the entrada. Soups include caldos (broths), consomés (clear soups), cremas (creamed soups), and other styles of sopa aguada–liquid soup.

    In cities and towns all over Mexico, you'll find fondas, comida económica, and comida corrida restaurants.  All of these small, usually family-run restaurants specialize in full meals that stoke your furnace for the rest of your workday and beyond.  In addition, in many cities there are high-end restaurants that specialize in comidas for professional and business lunches, others that are designed for the ladies-who-lunch trade, and still other, family-style restaurants that invite everyone from the oldest great-grandpa to the newest newborn to enjoy time together.

    Amecameca Ensaladas Varias
    A variety of prepared salads for sale in a market.  Sold by the kilo or portion of a kilo, these salads are meant to be taken home and eaten along with your comida.

    Encuentro Mole con Pollo
    Mexico's signature mole con pollo (mole with chicken) is popular for the platillo fuerte (main dish) at a comida, whether served at home or in a restaurant.  Many regions of the country have special mole recipes; some, like those found in Puebla or Oaxaca, are very well known.  Others, especially some from the state of Michoacán, are less well known but equally delicious.

    Albóndigas en el Plato
    These Jalisco-style albóndigas (meatballs) are traditional and typically served as a platillo fuerte for comida, along with their delicious sauce, a big helping of steamed white rice, a garnish of avocado, and a tall stack of tortillas.

    Many soon-to-be-visitors to Mexico write to me saying something like this: "I want to plan for breakfast in the hotel and a meal in such-and-such a restaurant at lunchtime.  Then we want to go for dinner at such-and-such restaurant."  Unless you are a professional eater–and I know that some of you are!–it's difficult to fit all of that food into one day, given the times of day that meals are usually eaten here.  If your breakfast is included in the cost of your hotel or B&B, many of the available dishes will look like those featured here last week.  They're very, very filling.  Just a few hours later, it's time for comida, an even more filling meal when eaten in a restaurant.  

    Carne y Salsa Listo para Hornear
    Carne de cerdo en salsa verde (pork in green sauce) is a typical home-style dish (in this instance, just being put into the Mexico Cooks! oven) often served for comida.  Of course it is preceded by an appetizer, a soup, and perhaps a salad; it's accompanied by red or white rice, refried beans, and a stack of tortillas–and followed by dessert!

    Torta Especial Los Cun?ados Aguascalientes con Chilpancingo 2
    The famous and enormous torta especial, from Tortas Los Cuñados, across the street from my home.  This torta is a multi-meat sandwich with cheese, garnished with lettuce, tomato, and pickled chiles jalapeños), served on a bread called telera.  The word telera means shuttle, because the bread is shaped like one.  This kind of delicious hot sandwich is neither lunch nor a complete comida

    "Lunch" as it is eaten in the United States or elsewhere does not exist in Mexico.  You might see a restaurant sign reading "LONCHERÍA", but it refers to a kind of cold sandwich, known as a 'lonche', not to a place where you can have lunch.  A lonche can be eaten at any old time–between meals, instead of meals, before or after a movie, and so on.

    Carnitas
    This is a boiling pot of Michoacán carnitas–huge chunks of lean pork, boiled in freshly rendered lard until the pork is fork-tender with crisp, chewy outsides.  Coarsely chopped and served by the platter, ready to stuff into hot-off-the-fire tortillas and top with minced onions, chopped cilantro, super-spicy salsa, a sprinkle of sea salt and a squeeze of lime, carnitas can be a rustic and delicious comida all on their own.

    Muertos Taco Carnitas
    Here are those same carnitas, in a taco.  On the side is a slice of pickled chile manzano, hot as Hades but much more delicious.

    Gelatina Pinar
    Gelatina is a common light dessert following a heavy comida

    Flan Napolitano
    On the other hand, you will almost always have room for a slice of old-fashioned creamy flan.

    Next week, we finish our day of Mexico's meals with cena–supper!

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