Category: Current Affairs

  • The Catrina, Mexico’s Iconic Legacy from José Guadalupe Posada

    Catrina Posada Autoretrato
    José Guadalupe Posada, born in early 1852 in the state of Aguascalientes, Mexico, developed his skill as an artist into a career as the foremost political cartoonist of his era, regularly skewering the high and mighty of late 19th century Mexico with his engravings.  His portrait (above), engraved by mid-20th century engraver Leopoldo Méndez, is a classic.

    Posada's satirical efforts started when he worked as a teenage apprentice in Aguascalientes.  His boss, José Trinidad Pedroza, assigned him the job of creating a finger-pointing cartoon depicting the misdeeds of a local politician.  His characterization was so successful that it created a tremendous hullabaloo in Aguascalientes; both Posada and Pedroza had to leave town in a hurry to avoid the politico's wrath.  When the tumult calmed down, the two printers returned to their work of exposing nefarious political goings-on. 

    Catrina Taller de Posada
    Posada, photographed around the turn of the 20th century, standing in the doorway of his Mexico City taller de grabado (engraving workshop).

    When Pedroza's Aguascalientes workplace was destroyed by a flood in 1888, Posada moved to Mexico City to open his own workshop.  After the move to the capital, Posada began publishing and distributing frequent volantes (flyers).  He used the medium to continue to puncture the egos and expose the foibles and serious crimes of government and social figures of the day.  During a time when many in Mexico were illiterate, the message of political cartoons could be easily understood even without reading the articles.  Many credit Posada with raising the political and social consciousness of the peón (common laborer), exposing social injustice at a time when most at that level were blind to it.

    Catrina First Drawing
    Posada's first published fashionably-hatted calavera (skull).  The cartoon is titled, "Big Sale of Grinning Skulls".  Over the course of the rest of his career, it is estimated that the prolific Posada published as many as 20,000 political volantes, at a penny apiece, including many thousands that were illustrated by calaveras.

    What was Posada's purpose in utilizing a skeleton–albeit a well-dressed skeleton–to illustrate his articles?  Mexico's president/dictator at the time, Porfirio Díaz, appreciated and aped all things French.  During his rule, known as the Porfiriato, Mexican government officials and high society alike dressed in the French mode, expressing what was known then and is known now as malinchismo: over-valuing foreign imports over Mexico's national products. The Frenchified calavera engraved by Posada is offered as a satirical portrait of those Mexican natives who, Posada felt, were aspiring to adopt European aristocratic traditions in Mexico's pre-revolutionary era. The irony of Posada’s drawing—a fabulously over-dressed skeleton—is that no matter what we’re wearing, we all end as bones.

    Catrina Posada El Jarabe
    El Jarabe en Ultratumba (Dancing Beyond the Grave).

    In Mexico, we play with, make fun of, and party with death. We throw our arms around her in a wickedly sardonic embrace and escape her return embrace with a zippy side-step, a wink, and a joke.  Every day is a dance with death.  Death is a woman who has a numerous affectionate and humorous nicknames: la Huesuda (the bony woman), la Seria (the serious woman), la Novia Fiel (the faithful bride), la Igualadora (the equalizer), la Dientona (the toothy woman), la Pelona (the bald woman), la Patrona (the boss lady), and a hundred more. She's always here, just around the next corner or right over there, behind that pillar.  She waits with patience, until later today or until twelve o'clock next Thursday, or sometime next year–but when it's time, she's right there to dance away with you at her side.

    Catrinas (large) Torres_edited-1
    In the fairly recent past, Posada's politicized calavera became known as la catrina, a figure now closely related to Mexico's celebration of Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).  Renowned Michoacán-based painter and sculptor Juan Torres CalderónMexico Cooks! good friend, was the first to present Posada's catrina vision in clay.  In 1982, his wife, Velia Canals, began production of Maestro Torres' catrina designs.  Their workshop in Capula, Michoacán, is open for sales to the public.

    The Mexican word catrina–the word now used for any representation of Posada's original French-attired calavera–simply means a woman who is dressed to the nines.  Her male counterpart is known as a catrín—a handsome man, usually dressed in elegant male attire. Together, the couple are catrines.  Even today, if you go out to a formal event, your neighbor (seeing you leave the house) might well say, “Uff, qué catrina!” Unless you’re a man, of course, in which case the neighbor would say, “Qué catrín!”.

    Catrina Pa?tzcuaro Catrinas Papel Mache?_edited-1
    These catrines are made of paper maché.  On the far right, you see a bride and groom.  Mexico Cooks!' kitchen shows off this same artisan's chef figure, in a green chef's jacket and a high white toque.  Enlarge any photo to have a better view.

    Catrina Panaderi?a Ortiz
    Some of the many Día de los Muertos figures displayed at the fabulous bakery Hornos de Los Ortíz, in Morelia, Michoacán.  The owner makes these gorgeous figures out of bread dough!  If you happen to be in Morelia in the next few weeks, DO NOT MISS this bakery and its annual display.  The owners, in a typical Mexican play on words, call the diorama a pan-teón: bread cemetery.

    Catrina Vestido Hojas de Ma?iz
    During the 2015 Noche de los Muertos events in Morelia's historic center, this young woman dressed in a skirt and hat made of totomoxtle (dried corn husks)–the husks normally used for making tamales.  Her mother made her outfit and painted her face.

    Catrina Maquillaje Nin?a
    During the last few years, many Mexican children and adults have begun to paint their faces for Día (and Noche) de Muertos.  The little girl in the chair lives in Opopeo, Michoacán, a small town not far from Morelia.  In the town square's bandstand, young people were designing a special face for each child who wanted one.

    Posada's century-old political calavera has evolved into one of Mexico's most beloved icons, the catrina.  When your friends ask you about her, be sure that they know the history behind this beautiful creature.  She's more than just a pretty face.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here to see new information: Tours

  • The Astonishing Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve in Southeastern Mexico

    Cueva Biosfera desde la Cueva
    This is a tiny part of the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere near the town of Coxcatlán, Puebla.  Many huge columnar cardón cactus are visible through the trees and shrubs. An all but unmarked entrance to this section of the biosphere is approximately five kilometers from Coxcatlán. The dirt road into the biosphere is in relatively good shape during this part of the year when it rains very little.  The greenery and hills looked at first like any other part of rural Mexico, but what I saw and learned here excited me enormously.

    Roadrunner 2
    As we wound slowly along the dirt road, we saw a roadrunner skitter across our path and into the undergrowth; even our old-hand guide to the reserve was excited!  He said it was really unusual to get to see this elusive bird.  I'd previously seen two or three of them near Albuquerque, but never in Mexico.  The roadrunner ran across the road so fast that his legs truly looked like they were spinning in circles, just like the famous cartoon.  He was far too quick for me to take his picture from the car; thank you Joe Schelling for the use of this wonderful image.

    Cueva Flor de Un?a de Gato Cuna del Mai?z
    The bottlebrush-shaped flower of the senegalia greggii (uña de gato, or cat's claw acacia) bush.  The plant is said to be medicinal. While walking a short, sandy, uphill trail, I slipped, fell on my posterior, and an insect stung me there several times, and quite painfully.

    Un?a de gato thorns
    Leaves, branches, and cat-claw shaped thorns of the uña de gato tree. One of the men in our party cut two thin, 3" long pieces of a green branch of uña de gato and told me to put one little stick behind each ear, the way you'd put a pencil behind your ear, to take away the pain of the stings. I followed instructions and little by little the pain diminished. Would it have lessened anyway?  Probably, but I've learned to say 'yes' to most possibilities in Mexico. I never want to miss anything!

    Cardo?n Cactus Coxatla?n 8-2016 2
    Meet the cardón cactus (Pachycereus pringlei), which grows prolifically in the Tehuacán biosphere.  It is the tallest cactus species in the world and an enormous specimen such as this one can weigh as much as 25 tons. The cardón bears a delicious fruit. Woodpeckers drill into its columns to make their nests and small animals also invade them for shelter.  This particular columnar giant in its prime of life is approximately 20 meters (nearly 70 feet) tall. Its rate of growth?  Just a smidge over two centimeters per year. Its age?  You do the math. Clue: its lifespan is measured in hundreds of years.

    Cueva Lantana Cuna del Mai?z
    This common ornamental–you might even have one growing in your garden–is lantana.  It's so widespread that most of us don't know that it is native to Mexico, particularly to semi-arid and tropical regions.  It grows wild in the biosphere.  Between its orange and yellow flowers, the varied greens of bushes and trees, and the white and pink flowers of the uña de gato, the underbrush glows like the colors on an artist's palette.

    Pochote
    The tall pochote tree, native to Mexico and sacred to the Maya, looks as if it is wearing an exotic armor of fearsome thorns, but in reality they are merely protuberances similar in texture to cork.  I noticed that one of our companions, a guide to the biosphere, had hitched himself partway up the trunk and was breaking some of them off the tree; just before I asked him to take one or two for me, he slid down and put five of them into my hand.  How lovely that he read my mind!  

    Another of our guide companions explained that the pochote is host to a kind of worm called cuetla, which is about ten centimeters (four inches) long and relatively thick through the body.  The cuetlas are harvested, roasted or fried, and eaten; they are allegedly quite tasty and are thought of as a delicacy.  The bulbous roots of the tree store substantial water; the roots can be dug up and chewed to quench thirst.

    Cueva Pochote Spines 2
    The five pochote spines, with some other tiliches (tchotchkes, stuff) on the top shelf of a miniature trastero (literally, dish cupboard) in my kitchen. The tallest one, far left, measures about two inches high.

    Cueva algodon-y-fruta-del-pochote
    The pods of the pochote, about six to eight inches long, are filled with a very light, cottony, fibrous material that can be used to stuff pillows.  The pochote fibers, known in English as kapok, were at one time used to stuff life vests.

    Cueva mica
    Mica, a silicate mineral found everywhere in the world, is abundant in the biosphere.  Our small group noticed light glinting from what we thought were numerous but ordinary stones on the sandy paths.  Our guides immediately told us that the 'stones' were mica.  They seemed almost magical, reflecting the strong light of the summer sun.  Photo courtesy Google Images.

    Readers, you know that Mexico Cooks! ordinarily follows a path that leads to something of culinary interest.  Going to the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán biosphere reserve was no exception.  Be sure to come back next week, when you'll read about why we were so intent upon this particular destination. Trust me when I tell you that this was one of the most exciting days I've ever spent in Mexico.  Don't miss it!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Mexico’s Independence Celebration: A Month of Fiestas Patrias

    Fiestas-Patrias Star Media
    Street vendors hawk la bandera nacional (the Mexican flag) in dozens of forms for several weeks during August and right up to September 16, Mexico's Independence Day. In this photo, you see a vendor near the zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución) in Mexico City.  Photo courtesy Starmedia.

    Mexico's official struggle for freedom from Spanish colonization began sometime between midnight and dawn on September 16, 1810, when Father Miguel Hidalgo gave the Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores) from the parish bell tower in the town known today as Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato.  Mexico celebrates its day of Fiestas Patrias (Patriotic Holidays) on September 16 with parades of school children and military batallions, politicians proclaiming speeches, and general festivity. 

    Banderas
    Another flag vendor, this time in Morelia, Michoacán.  All photos copyright Mexico Cooks! unless otherwise noted.

    Hundreds of books have been written about Mexico's break from Spain, millions of words have been dedicated to exploring the lives of the daring men and women who knew, a bit more than 200 years ago, that the time had come for freedom.  You can read some of the history on the Internet.  Another excellent source for Mexican history is The Life and Times of Mexico, by Earl Shorris.  You'll find that book available to order through Amazon.com, on the left-hand side of this page.

    But the best-kept secret in Mexico is the Independence Day party.  No, the biggest deal is not on September 16th.  Held every year on the night of September 15, the Gran Noche Mexicana (the Great Mexican Night), the real celebration of the revolutionary events in 1810, is a combination of New Year's Eve, your birthday, and your country's independence festivities.  Wouldn't you really rather hear about the party?  I knew you would!

    Kiosko_adornado
    Jalisco town kiosko (bandstand) decorated for the Fiestas Patrias.

    For years I've attended the September 15 celebrations in a variety of towns and cities.  In Mexico City, the country's president leads hundreds of thousands of citizens in late-night celebrations in the zócalo, the enormous square surrounded by government buildings and the Metropolitan Cathedral.  Every Mexican town big enough to have a mayor holds a reenactment of the Grito de Dolores, Hidalgo's cry for independence.  The town square is decorated with flags, bunting, and ribbons.  Cohetes (sky rockets) flare and bang.  Sometime around eleven o'clock at night, the folks, assembled in the town plaza since nine or so, are restless for the celebration to begin.  The mayor's secretary peeks out from the doorway of the government offices, the folkloric dancers file off the stage in the plaza, the band tunes up for the Himno Nacional (the national anthem), the crowd waves its flags and hushes its jostling.  The mayor steps out onto the balcony of the government building or onto the stage built just outside the building's front door to lead the singing of the Himno's emotional verses. 

    Grito-independencia-zocalo-2015
    The bandera monumental and celebratory fireworks in front of Mexico's Palacio Nacional, the zócalo, Mexico City, September 15, 2015. Press courtesy photo.

    Dressed in his finest and backed up by a military or police guard, the mayor clears his throat and loudly begins an Independence Day proclamation.  He pulls a heavy rope to ring the Independence bell, then he waves a huge Mexican flag.  Back and forth, back and forth!  In every Mexican town, the proclamation ends with Hidalgo's 205-year-old exhortations: "Long live religion!  Long live Our Lady of Guadalupe! Long live the Americas and death to the corrupt government!  Viva México!  Qué viva!"

    Guadalupano
    Father Hidalgo's 1810 banner.  He carried this banner as his standard as a leader in the fight for Mexico's independence from Spain.

    The mayor and the crowd shout as one voice: "Viva México!  Qué viva!  Qué viva!"  The mayor grins and waves as the fireworks begin, bursting huge green, white, and red chrysanthemums over the heads of the attendees.

    Later there will be dancing and more music, and food, including traditional pozole, tostadas, mezcal, tequila and beer, and, in larger towns and cities, all-night revelry in the plaza, in private homes, and in hotels, restaurants, and events halls.

    A number of years ago my friend, música ranchera singer Lupita Jiménez from Guadalajara, invited me to a Gran Noche Mexicana where she was performing.  The event was scheduled to start at 9.30, but Mexican custom normally dictates late arrival.  By ten o'clock I was on my way to the party.  At the salón de eventos (events hall) the parking lot was already full, but a man was parking cars on the street just a block away.  As I left my car, he said, "Could you pay me now for watching your car?  It's 20 pesos.  I'll be leaving a little early, probably before the event is over." 

    "How long will you be here?" I asked, a bit anxious about leaving the car alone on this night of prodigious revelry.

    Lupita
    Lupita Jiménez in performance at a Gran Noche Mexicana in Guadalajara.

    "Till six."  My jaw dropped and I handed him the 20 pesos.  Six in the morning!  Surely we wouldn't party quite so long as that! 

    The sad truth is that I didn't.  I couldn't.  My stamina flagged at about 3:00 AM, after dinner had been served at 10:30, a city politician had proclaimed the Grito, the Himno Nacional had been sung, and big noisy fireworks had been set off on the indoor stage (I swear to you) of the salón de eventos.  Then the show started, a brief recapitulation in dance of Mexican history, starting with concheros (loincloth-clad Aztec dancers) whirling around a belching volcano, and ending with the glorious jarabe tapatía–the Guadalajara regional dance that most speakers of English know as the Mexican hat dance.

    After innumerable trios, duets, and solo singers, the show paused for intermission at close to two in the morning.  Several of my table-mates slipped away, but I thought I could make it to the end.  The first half of the Gran Noche Mexicana had been invigorating and exciting and I loved it.  During intermission, a wonderful Mexican comedian poked fun at politics, functionaries, and Mexican life in general.  We were all roaring with laughter.  When the comic left the stage, I realized that I was exhausted and needed to go home to bed.  Just as the performers stepped onto the stage to begin the next round of song, I sneaked away. 

    When I called Lupita the next afternoon to congratulate her on the success of the event, she asked if I'd stayed for the last few costume changes.  "Mija, I had to go home early.  I lasted till three, but then I just couldn't stay awake.  I'm so sorry I missed the end." 

    Lupita laughed.  "I'm glad you lasted that long, but next time you have to stay for the whole night!  You missed the best part!"

    Zcalo_df_2
    The Zócalo (main city plaza) in Mexico City, dressed up for the Fiestas Patrias.

    Viva México!  Qué viva!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours. 

     

  • Morelia en Boca en la Boca de Todos :: Everybody’s Talking about Morelia en Boca, Sixth Year!

    Due to an unexpected health issue, Mexico Cooks! is unable to attend the sixth edition of Morelia en Boca, taking place this weekend in Morelia, Michoacán.  Rather than miss the festivities altogether, I invite you this week and next week to a re-run of the very first Morelia en Boca, offered in 2011.

    Morelia en Boca logotipo
    Morelia en Boca 2011
    offered three full days and nights of gastronomic conferences, wine and food tasting, and marvelous dinners (with wine pairings) prepared by internationally-known chefs.  Whispers of the glories of this festival-to-come had circulated for an entire year, and Mexico Cooks! had eagerly awaited the event.

    Everyone's first question was, "Why a rabbit for the festival logo?" The rabbit, long linked with the rich culture of Michoacán, has several meanings.  First, it refers to the former town of San Juan Parangaricutiro, which was relocated to the former hacienda known as Los Conejos (the rabbits) when the erupting volcano Paricutín destroyed the original town in 1943.  Second, the logo refers to the ancient Purhépecha legend of the rabbit in the moon.  According to the legend, the mischievous rabbit devours the ripe produce in a farming family's fields.  The farmer then traps the rabbit to serve as a family dinner.  The smart rabbit tricks a coyote into freeing him from his cage.  The watching moon–considered to be the rabbit's mother–gives her son the gift of zigzagging and hopping in order to escape the angry, hungry, and desperate coyote.  Just as the rabbit is about to be trapped, the moon drops down a silver ladder that she has knit from spiderwebs.  The rabbit hops high and skips up the ladder, disappearing forever into the moon's embrace.  The coyote is left on the earth to howl his pain, his hunger, his fear, and his desperation, while the rabbit is plainly visible on the shining face of his mother, the moon.  Next time the moon is full, take a look and you'll see him for yourself, still cuddled in the moon's embrace.  The rabbit in the moon, ancient emblem of Michoacán and Mexico, is visible to the entire world.

    Mise en Place con Jícaritas
    Mise en place (all previously prepared ingredients in place) for a cooking demonstration, one of many presented at this recent and enormously successful international culinary event .  The pre-measured ingredients that you see here are displayed in tiny dried jícaras (gourds).

    The festival paired renowned chefs from as far south as Oaxaca and Chiapas with others from as far north as New York City.  Food writers and photographers from both Mexico and the United States descended en masse on Morelia for the event.  The most common and excited exclamation among wine and culinary participants at the festival–in both Spanish and English–was, "Oh my god, we're friends on Facebook and finally we get to meet in person!

    Pilar, Lucero, Iliana Presentación
    From left, Oaxaca's chef Pilar Cabrera of Restaurante La Olla, Morelia's favorite daughter chef Lucero Soto Arriaga (Restaurante LU, Morelia), and chef Iliana de la Vega, of the extraordinary Austin, Texas restaurant El Naranjo (formerly based in Oaxaca).  The three laughing chefs were mid-presentation at Morelia en Boca.

    Grupo Cocina al Natural
    The group from Cocina al Natural, including Celia Marín, Bertha Herrera, Martha Ponce, Sonia Ortiz, and Ana Luisa Suárez of Vinos Wagner, a sponsor of the website.  Cocina al Natural launched its website with a joy-filled presentation that included video, delightful talk, and chilled white wines from from Vinos Wagner.

    Morelia en Boca offered something for everyone with an interest in either food or wine or both.  Daily conferences included panels speaking on topics ranging from the importance and influence of the Culinary Institute of America (Chefs Iliana de la Vega and Roberto Santíbañez) to the launch of the new and wonderful interactive–and very user-friendly–website Cocina al Natural (Celia Marín and Sonia Ortiz).  Equally diverse demonstrations included presentations by chefs Enrique Olvera (Restaurante Pujol, Mexico City), Pablo San Román (Restaurante DO, Mexico City) and the new generation of chefs represented by Rodolfo Castellaños (Restaurante Huaje, Oaxaca) and Marta Zepeda (Restaurante Tierra y Cielo, San Cristóbal de las Casas), and an enormous chocolate sculpture–of our logo rabbit–by premier Mexican chocolate maker and chef José Ramón Castillo.  More than a dozen separate catas de vino (wine tastings) showed off wineries from Mexico, France, Spain, and the United States.  The Belgian brewer Gouden Carolus beamed over its featured offerings of summery wheat beer and truly delicious fruit flavored beers.

    Riviera Nayarit con Betty Vázquez
    Part of the team from Riviera Nayarit, including the outstanding west coast chefs (left to right) Gerardo Sandoval Fernández, Betty Vázquez, and Marco Valdivia.  The Riviera Nayarit stand at Villa Gourmet offered portions of aguachile de camarón (raw shrimp marinated in a sometimes-fiery sauce of jugo de limón and chile serrano), along with a delicious Nayarit-style cebiche topped with spicy Salsa Huichol, one of the sponsors of Riviera Nayarit's visit to Morelia en Boca.

    Mexico Cooks! on the Job courtesy Adriana Pérez de Legaspi
    Mexico Cooks! on the job.  Photo courtesy Adriana Pérez de Legaspi.

    Food and wine tastings at Morelia en Boca took place at the Palacio Clavijero, a 17th Century Jesuit school.  In the building's second patio, more than 30 charming wooden providers' booths surrounded a multitude of comfortable tables and chairs.  The cost of festival tickets included good-sized tastes (really, as much as you wanted) of both food and drink, including treats from Oaxaca, Chiapas, Nayarit, and Michoacán, Belgian beer, and wines from several countries.

    Museo del Dulce 1 Zarza con Cotija
    Drop-dead delicious bite-size dark chocolate cups filled with jam handmade from Michoacán-grown blackberries and topped with artisan-made queso Cotija, also from Michoacán.  These little marvels (and a big selection of others) were available at the Morelia Museo del Dulce stand at Villa Gourmet.

    Next week, come back for Part Two of the festivities at Morelia en Boca.  Mexico Cooks! will feature the Morelia en Boca dinners prepared by chefs Roberto Santibáñez of Fonda in New York City, Lucero Soto Arriaga of Morelia's Restaurante LU, Margarita Carrillo de Salinas of Restaurante Don Emiliano in Cabo San José, Baja California Sur, and Rodolfo Castellanos of Restaurante Huaje, Oaxaca.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Pastorela in Cuitzeo: The Best Christmas Play Ever

    This article, originally published at Christmastime 2007has been extremely popular every Christmas since then.  We think you will enjoy this slightly updated version…

    Christmas_pageant_1953
    A Seattle Christmas pageant, circa 1953.  Thanks, Sandy in Seattle!

    My school put on a Christmas pageant when I was in the third grade, back in the days before the law specified generic holiday greetings.  Remember way back then, how Joey and Jimmy, Ralphie and Bobby, were the shepherds in their father's striped terrycloth bathrobes, the sashes tied three or four times around their waists?  Chuck got to be Joseph and that prissy little Linda Beth got to dress in blue and white as the Virgin Mary when everybody KNEW it should have been you up there nuzzling the Baby Jesus.  Here's a sweet little reminder:  

    [youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clSUr9fLapY&w=320&h=240]

    Pastorela_19th_century
    A 19th Century pastorela photograph showing Bartolo, the indolent shepherd who overslept and missed his chance to go to Bethlehem to see the Niño Dios (Christ Child).

    In Mexico, a Christmas pageant, like almost everything, is different from Christmas plays North of the Border.  Called a pastorela, the Mexican Christmas play is part very naughty topical comedy, part traditional drama, part Sunday school lesson, and 100% morality play.  Pastorela means pastoral, or a play that takes place in the countryside, and concerns the activities of pastores, or shepherds. First introduced to Mexico by Franciscan missionaries in the 1500's, pastorelas continued to grow in favor here.  Today, the plays are one of the most popular Christmastime entertainments.  The theme portrays the eternal conflict between good and evil. The plot revolves around the pilgrimage of the shepherds to Bethlehem to see the newborn Niño Dios.

    The devil is not ordinarily associated with Christmas. In Mexico, however, Satan plays a very solid role in the holiday festivities. He is actually the star!  Lucifer works all his worst wiles to detour the shepherds away from their destination.  Costumed as various alluring personages, Satan and his apprentice devils do their best to trick the shepherds into abandoning their journey to redemption.  At the end, Satan is tricked, good triumphs, the shepherds meet the Holy Family, and all is well.

    Several years ago, Mexico Cooks! spent a week or so looking for a pastorela to be presented at a time we could attend.  One day I noticed an article in the newspaper about a pastorela that was being offered that very night in Cuitzeo, a small town about an hour north of Morelia.  The title of the play (El Ermitaño.com: The Hermit.com) was intriguing, the photo of the performers in costume looked exciting, and the timing was right. I called my friend Bunny, who jumped at the chance to accompany me to the evening performance, and we were off to Cuitzeo.

    Cuitzeo reached the status of Mexican Pueblo Mágico, the third in Michoacán, in 2006.   The requirements for the Pueblo Mágico designation are:

    • a town or city rich in tradition
    • located in an area of high interest to tourists
    • that it have a strong history
    • that it have ready access from major highways

    You'll see in this video that Cuitzeo easily meets Pueblo Mágico criteria.

    Our pastorela took place outside, on the grounds of the Ex-Convento de Santa María Magdalena, a 16th Century Augustinian convent.  We stopped first in the church to see the Christmas decorations.

    La_santsima_camino_a_beln
    Cuitzeo's 17th Century Virgin Mary wears a charming straw sombrero, carries a lace-trimmed basket, and rides a donkey as she and Joseph travel to Bethlehem.

    The presentation of El Ermitaño.com, written by the wonderful contemporary Mexican playwright Miguel Sabido, was sponsored by Adopt a Work of Art, the Michoacán Secretary of Tourism, the Cuitzeo city government, the National Institute of Anthropology and History, and the newspaper La Voz de Michoacán.  We discovered that this pastorela was not a simple country town's Christmas caprice.  It is a sophisticated, professional play of great good humor.

    According to Miguel Sabido, "The culture which distinguishes Mexico is both vast and rich, but it's composed of more than our country's admirable buildings.  Mexico has its greatest patrimony in its popular rituals, and its recipes like the pinole cookies that are only made here in this region, and the pastorelas.  These are Mexico's legacies and we must make a commitment to spread her traditions."

    Entrada
    The pastorela characters mounted the stage dancing, singing, and rejoicing over the birth of the Niño Dios.

    Adam_and_eve_2
    Adam and Eve were the first to take the devil's bait: Adam bit the apple and all hell broke loose.

    Cantando
    Still singing, the shepherds, in typical indigenous Purhépecha dress, started their trip to Bethlehem.

    El ermitaño (the hermit), portrayed as a post-elderly (think 200 years old) fellow, leads the shepherds (in this case, indigenous Purépecha from Michoacán) on the long trip to Bethlehem.  The Archangel Michael warns them that they'll see the devil in the disguise of famous and fascinating people.  When Satan begins to tempt the simple shepherds, they easily fall into his traps.

    Ermitao
    El ermitaño
     (the hermit) co-starred with Satan.

    Famously rival Mexican soccer teams, a drunken debauch complete with Caribbean dancers in flounced skirts and turbans, and an angelic choir are all devils in disguise.  In every encounter, Archangel Michael has to intervene to prod the shepherds on their way.  Topical jokes ran wild, references to the famous and the infamous flew, and we loved it all.

    Beln
    Finally, Bethlehem!  The Virgin Mary holds the Niño Dios as St. Joseph and the shepherds look on.

    The pastorela story was typically good conquers evil, but what a production!  Acted, danced, and sung by professionals, the morality play kept the crowd (packed into bleachers on two sides of the open stage) laughing, clapping, booing and hissing, and singing along with Mexico's treasured and iconic villancicos (Christmas carols). 

    [youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07FjX4R1d-s&w=350&h=263] 
    Listen to this lovely version of Los Peces en el Río.  Can you hear the lyric 'la Virgen lava pañales'?  It means 'the Virgin is washing diapers'!

    Mexico Cooks! wishes everyone a very joyous New Year, filled with good health, great happiness, and many delights.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • The Traditional Nacimiento (Manger or Creche) in Mexico

    Arbolito 2010 2
    A Christmas tree may be the central focus of your home decoration during this joyous season of the Christian year.  In most parts of Mexico, though, the Christmas tree is a fairly recent import and the primary focus of the holiday is still on the nacimiento (manger scene, creche, or nativity scene).

    One of Mexico Cooks!' biggest delights every late November and early December is shopping for Christmas–not hunting for gifts, but rather on the lookout for new items to place in our nacimiento (manger scene).  Truth be told, we have five nacimientos–or maybe six–that come out each Christmas season, but only one of them keeps growing every year.

    Barro Nacimiento 2010
    The tiny figures in this nacimiento are made of clay; the choza (hut) is made of wood.  The shepherds and angels have distinctive faces; no two are alike.  One shepherd carries firewood, another a tray of pan dulce (sweet breads), a third has a little bird in his hands.  The tallest figures measure only three inches high.  The Niño Dios (Baby Jesus) is not usually placed in the pesebre (manger) until the night of December 24.  The Niño Dios for this nacimiento is just over an inch long and is portrayed sleeping on his stomach with his tiny knees drawn up under him, just like a real infant.  This nacimiento was made about 30 years ago in Tonalá, Jalisco, Mexico.

    Mexican households traditionally pass the figures for their nacimientos down through the family; the figures begin to look a little tattered after traveling from great-great-grandparents to several subsequent generations, but no one minds.  In fact, each figure holds loving family memories and is the precious repository of years of 'remember when?'.  No one cares that the Virgin Mary's gown is chipped around the hem or that St. Joseph is missing an arm; remembering how the years-ago newest baby, now 32 and with a baby of his own, teethed on the Virgin's dress or how a long-deceased visiting aunt's dog bit off St. Joseph's arm is cause for a family's nostalgic laughter.

    Nacimiento en Vivo
    Nacimiento en vivo (living nativity scene), Lake Chapala, Jalisco, Mexico.  In 13th century Italy, St. Francis of Assisi was the first to be inspired to re-enact the birth of Christ.  The first nacimiento was presented with living creatures: the oxen, the donkey, and the Holy Family.  Even today in hundreds of Mexican communities, you'll see living manger scenes. 

    Nacimiento 18th Century Italian
    Holy Family, 18th century Italy.  The first nativity figures, made of clay, were created in 15th century Naples and their use spread rapidly throughout Italy and Spain.  In Spain, the early figural groups were called 'Belenes' (Bethlehems). 

    AAA José y María Hacia Belén
    A few weeks before Christmas, our tiny nacimiento de plomo (manger scene with lead figures, none over four inches high) comes out of yearlong storage.  The wee village houses are made of cardboard and hand-painted; each has snow on its roof and a little tree in front.  You might well ask what the figures in the photo represent: Sr. San José (St. Joseph, who in Mexico always wears green and gold) leads the donkey carrying la Virgen María (the Virgin Mary) on their trek to Belén (Bethlehem).  We put these figures out earliest and move them a bit closer to Bethlehem every day.  This nacimiento is the one that grows each year; we have added many figures to the original few.  This year we expect the total number of figures to rise to well over 200.

    Nacimiento Más Poblado
    Click on the photo and you will see that the Holy Family has not yet arrived in Bethlehem; the choza is empty and St. Joseph's staff is just visible in the lower right-hand corner.  Click to enlarge the photo to better see the figures in the nacimiento: gamboling sheep, birds of all kinds, shepherds, shepherdesses, St. Charbel, an angel, and Our Lady of Guadalupe are all ready to receive the Niño Dios (Baby Jesus).  Notice the upright red figure standing in the Spanish moss: that's Satan, who is always present in a Mexican nacimiento to remind us that although the birth of Jesus offers love and the possibility of redemption to the world, sin and evil are always present.

    Nacimiento Arriero y Woman at the Well
    Detail of the lead figures in our ever-growing nacimiento.  To the left is a well (with doves) and a woman coming to draw water; to the right is an arriero (donkey-herder) giving his stubborn little donkey what-for.  No matter how many figures are included, the central figures in any nacimiento are the Holy Family (St. Joseph, the Virgin Mary, and the Baby Jesus).  In Mexico, those three are collectively known as el misterio (the mystery).

    Nacimiento Grande
    A very small portion of one of the largest nacimientos on display in Mexico City.  It measures more than 700 square meters and includes thousands of figures.  They include everything you can think of and some things that would never occur to you: a butcher shop, a running stream and a waterfall, sleeping peasants, and washerwomen.  A nacimiento can include all of the important stories of the Bible, from Genesis to the Resurrection, as well as figures representing daily life–both today's life in Mexico and life at the time of Jesus's birth.  Photo courtesy El Universal.

    Papel Roca Mexico Cooks
    Papel roca (hand-painted paper for decorating a nacimiento), a choza (little hut), and two kinds of moss for sale in this booth at the Guadalajara tianguis navideño (Christmas market).  This year, Mexico Cooks! has purchased figures of a miniature pre-Hispanic loinclothed warrior, a tiny shoemaker working at his bench, a wee man sawing firewood, and a shepherd standing under a tree while holding a lamb. The shepherd's tree looks exactly like a stalk of broccoli and makes us smile each time we look at it. 

    Where in Mexico can you buy figures for your nacimiento?  Every city and town has a market where, for about a month between the end of November and the first week in January, a large number of vendors offer items especially for Christmas.  Some larger cities, like Mexico City, Guadalajara, Morelia, and others, offer several tianguis navideños (Christmas markets) where literally thousands of figures of every size are for sale.  A few years ago, we found a tiny figure of the seated Virgin Mary, one breast partially exposed as she nurses the Niño Dios, who lies nestled in her arms.  It's the only one like it that we have ever seen.

    Navidad 2014 Pastor y Fogo?n
    This shepherd keeps watch over his cook-fire in the Mexico Cooks! nacimiento.  He's about three inches long from head to toe; the base of the fire is about the same length; the lead props for the pot are about two inches high.

    Nacimiento Tianguis Niño Dios Todos Tamaños
    This booth at a tianguis navideño in Guadalajara offers Niños Dios in every possible size, from tiny ones measuring less than three inches long to babies the size of a two-year-old child.  In Mexico City's Centro Histórico, Calle Talavera is an entire street devoted to shops specializing in clothing for your Niño Dios.  The nacimiento is traditionally displayed until February 2 (Candlemas Day), when the Niño Dios is gently taken out of the pesebre in a special ceremony called the levantamiento (raising).  The nacimiento is then carefully stored away until the following December.

    Esperanza
    The choza (hut) in the Mexico Cooks! nacimiento.  People and animals are waiting for the arrival of the Mary and Joseph, and for the birth of the Christ Child.  Click on any photo for a larger view.  In addition to the original lead figures, we now have indigenous figures found in a Mexico City flea market, antique lead animal figures (the rabbit behind the sleeping lamb, the little brown dog behind the kneeling shepherd), finely detailed santons from a trip to Provence, modern resin figures of every description, and many more.  Two hundred more–and counting!  

    Tianguis Shooting Stars
    Piles of gold and silver glitter cardboard stars of Bethlehem, for sale at the tianguis navideño in southern Mexico City's Mercado Mixcoac.

    Nacimiento (Villagers)
    At another tianguis navideño, an assortment of clay figures for your nacimiento: villagers, chickens, and vendors.  Size and scale don't matter: you'll find crocodiles the size of a soft drink can and elephants no bigger than your little finger.  Both will work equally well in your nacimiento.

    Nacimiento (Flamingos)
    Giant flamingos go right along with burritas (little donkeys).  Why not?

    Each traditional figure in a nacimiento is symbolic of a particular value.  For example, the choza (the little hut) represents humility and simplicity.  Moss represents humility–it's something that everyone steps on.  The donkey represents the most humble animal in all creation, chosen to carry the pregnant Virgin Mary.  The star of Bethlehem represents renewal and unending light.

    Nacimiento 6 (Devils)
    Which diablito (little devil) tempts you most, the one with the money bag or the one with the booze?

    Nacimiento Figures 2 (shepherds)
    How many shepherds do you want?  This Guadalajara tianguis navideño booth has hundreds, and in sizes ranging from an inch to well over a foot tall.

    Tortilleras Mexico Cooks
    It wouldn't be a Mexican nacimiento without tortillas!

    This Christmas, Mexico Cooks! wishes you all the blessings of the season.  Whatever your faith, we hope you enjoy this peek at the nacimiento, one of Mexico's lasting traditions.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Restaurante Nicos: Vintage Traditions, New Acclaim

    This article about Mexico City's ever-popular Restaurante Nicos bears repeating today for an important announcement.  Just a few weeks ago, our much-loved Nicos was named to the list of 50 Best Restaurants in Latin America, presented by RESTAURANT, a British specialty magazine. Long a great cause for pride in Mexico City, thanks to this award Nicos is now even better known throughout the world.

    Tamales Gerardo Vazquez Lugo
    Chef Gerardo Vázquez Lugo, consummately professional executive chef at Restaurante Nicos in Mexico City.  

    Nicos Bread Service
    Freshly baked, still-warm bolillo (crusty white bread roll) served from a dried guaje (gourd) and accompanied by three salsas and a wee dish of sea salt.

    Mexico City's gourmands–the many of us who are heartily fond of good food and drink–often travel substantially north of the Centro Histórico (downtown) to have a marvelous meal.  The magnet that pulls us to Delegación Azcapotzalco?  Restaurante Nicos, a Mexico City institution since 1957.  Started by don Raimundo Vázques and his wife María Elena Lugo Zermeño (chef Gerardo's parents) and run by the Vázquez Lugo family for the last 58 years, the restaurant offers a warmly charming atmosphere, excellent service, and simply fantastic food.

    Nicos Guacamole Ingredientes
    It always makes me happy to see that Nicos makes its guacamole exactly the way I've been doing it at home for 30 years.  You can see that the avocado is left in silky chunks; it's not mashed.  Add a little olive oil, some sea salt, small-diced white onion, small-diced tomato, chopped cilantro, and as much minced chile serrano as your palate can handle.  No limón (Key lime) is necessary. 

    Nicos Guacamole Finished
    Prepared at tableside with perfectly ripe, perfectly fresh ingredients, this guacamole brims over in its molcajete (volcanic stone mortar) and is a plentiful appetizer for four diners.  It's served with freshly-fried salty totopos (tortilla chips).

    This oasis of great eating has never pretended to be more than a family restaurant serving home-style Mexican cooking.  Traditional recipes prepared and served in the spirit of Slow Food are the basis of Nicos' kitchen, and attentive, non-obtrusive, closely-supervised staff continue to ensure that the customer is king.  Really, what more can we want? 

    Nicos Dobladita de Tinga
    Another appetizer, this time doblada de tinga (delectable stewed, spiced, and shredded chicken stuffed into a folded, hot-off-the-comal (griddle) tortilla).  These dobladas are offered three to an order, but our server generously provided our table of four diners with an extra doblada.

    A Mexican food enthusiast and restaurant owner visiting from Oregon recently invited me and some other friends to accompany him for comida (main meal of Mexico's day) at Nicos.  An eager sí, cómo no!, and Mexico Cooks! joined this group of friends at table.  Faced with the truly difficult choices among Nicos' marvelous appetizers, soups, salads, and main dishes, we of course ordered far too much food, and of course we polished it all off with delight.

    Nicos Trancas
    Our third entrada (appetizer) was this beautiful plate of trancastaquitos (small rolled and fried tacos) stuffed with chicken and served with farm-fresh crema de mesa (Mexican table cream, similar to creme fraiche), grated queso fresco (soft white cheese), lettuce, and tomato–plus a small bowl of guacamole.

    Nicos Sopa de Nata
    We ordered two sopas to share.  This is what Mexico knows as a sopa seca (dry soup).  In this case, it's the very special sopa seca de natas; a 19th century recipe from the convent of the Capuchinas (Capuchin nuns) in Guadalajara.  It's made of crepes, layered with shredded chicken and a sauce made of nata (unpasteurized cream from raw milk)tomatoes, and finely sliced chile poblano.  Once the ingredients are layered in a baking dish, they're baked for about an hour and a half.

    Nicos Sopa de Frijol Plate
    A soup plate arrives at table already piled with accompaniments for sopa de frijoles, the sopa aguada (liquid soup) we ordered.  The shallow bowl holds strips of thinly sliced, fried tortillas, queso Pijijiapan (a white crumbly cheese from the state of Chiapas), lightly fried chile de árbol, and crema de rancho (farm-style table cream).  Note the name Pijijiapan: it's the only place name in Mexico with five dotted letters in a row!  You can always count on Mexico Cooks! for this sort of fascinating trivia.

    Nicos Sopa de Frijol
    Absolutely delicious sopa de frijoles (bean soup), based on an ayocote (white runner bean) broth flavored with fresh epazote (wormweed) is then ladled atop the soup accompaniments, and our waiter added a few drops of organic olive oil. 

    Nicos Adobo de Carne de Cerdo
    The first of our three platos fuertes (main dishes) was adobo de antaño con carne de cerdo con tamal de ejote tierno (pork cooked in an old-fashioned smooth, spicy adobo (sauce) and served with a fresh-corn tamal.

    Nicos Frijolitos Negros
    A tiny pot of frijoles negros (black beans), for just a spoonful each to go with our main dishes.

    Nicos Frijolitos Charros
    And another tiny pot of frijoles charros (cowboy-style beans with bacon, onion, and tomato).  We couldn't have just one pot of beans, right?

    Nicos Conejo en Chile Piquín
    Our second main dish: conejo al chile piquín (tender rabbit in a chile piquín sauce), served with ensalada de nopalitos (cactus paddle salad).  Next time I am at Nicos, I'll order this dish just for myself.  It was unquestionably my favorite–fall-off-the-bone tender rabbit cooked in a supremely delicious sauce.  Just try and get me to give you a bite!

    Nicos Pollo en Pulque
    This dish of pollo en hoja de aguacate con pulque (boneless chicken with avocado leaf, orange juice, butter, and pulque) was, for me, a close runner-up to the rabbit.  Beautifully presented and carrying the subtle flavor of anise-y avocado leaf and earthy pulque, the recipe was created by one of Mexico's foremost chefs and my friend, Mexico's great lady of the kitchen, Alicia Gironella d'Angeli.

    Can you tell that we were simply too stuffed to order dessert?  We waddled out of the restaurant into the first downpour of Mexico City's 2013 rainy season, happy to have spent several hours enjoying one another's company and a superb meal.  Next time you're in Mexico City, Restaurante Nicos will be a truly memorable experience for you.

    Restaurante Nicos
    Av. Cuitláhuac 3102, corner of Clavería
    Col. Clavería
    Del. Azcapotzalco
    Mexico City 02080
    Tel: 55.5396.7090 (reservations suggested for hours of comida, 2.30-4:00PM)
    Hours: Monday through Friday 7.30AM to 7:30PM

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Noche de Muertos (Night of the Dead) in Michoacán, A Journey of Love and Respect

    Cristina de Puro Hueso
    Mexico Cooks!' 
    full body bone scan, 2009.

    Remember me as you pass by,
    As you are now, so once was I.
    As I am now, so you will be,
    Prepare for death and follow me.
                       …from a tombstone

    What is death?  We know its first symptoms: the heart stops pumping, breath and brain activity stop. We know death's look and feel: a still, cold body from which the spirit has fled.  The orphan and widow know death's sorrow, the priest knows the liturgy of the departed and the prayers to assuage the pain of those left to mourn. But in most English-speaking countries, death and the living are not friends.  We the living look away from our mortality, we talk of the terminally ill in terms of 'if anything happens', not 'when she dies'.  We hang the crepe, we cover the mirrors, we say the beads, and some of us fling ourselves sobbing upon the carefully disguised casket as it is lowered into the Astroturf-lined grave.

    Octavio Paz, Mexico City's Nobel Laureate poet and essayist who died in 1998, is famously quoted as saying, "In New York, Paris, and London, the word death is never mentioned, because it burns the lips."

    Canta a la Muerte
    Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán panteón (cemetery), Mexico Cooks! photo.  These fellows sing to la Descarnada (the fleshless woman) on November 2, 2009.

    In Mexico, on the contrary, every day is a dance with death.  Death is a woman who has a numerous affectionate and humorous nicknames: la Huesuda (the bony woman), la Seria (the serious woman), la Novia Fiel (the faithful bride), la Igualadora (the equalizer), la Dientona (the toothy woman), la Pelona (the bald woman), la Patrona (the boss lady), and a hundred more.  She's always here, just around the next corner or maybe right over there, behind that pillar.  She waits with patience, until later today or until twelve o'clock next Thursday, or until sometime next year–but when it's your time to go, she's right there, ready to dance away with you at her side. 

    Muertos La Santa Muerte
    November 2013 altar to La Santa Muerte (Holy Death), Sta. Ana Chapirito (near Pátzcuaro), Michoacán. Devotees of this deathly apparition say that her cult has existed since before the Spanish arrived in Mexico.

    In Mexico, death is also in the midst of life.  We see our dead, alive as you and me, each November, when we wait at our cemeteries for those who have gone before to come home, if only for a night. That, in a nutshell, is Noche de Muertos: the Night of the Dead.

    Muertos Vista al Panteón Quiroga
    In the lower center portion of this photograph, you can see the Quiroga, Michoacán, panteón municipal (town cemetery).  Late in the afternoon of November 1, 2013, most townspeople had not yet gone to the cemetery with candles and flowers for their loved ones' graves.  Click on any photograph for a larger view.

    Over the course of the last 30-plus years, Mexico Cooks! has been to countless Noche de Muertos events, but none as mystical, as spiritual, or as profoundly magical as that of 2013.  Invited to accompany a very small group on a private tour in Michoacán, I looked forward to spending three days enjoying the company of old and new friends. I did all that, plus I came away with an extraordinarily privileged view of life and death.

    Muertos Altar Casero Nico
    A magnificent Purépecha ofrenda (in this case, a home altar) in the village of Santa Fe de la Laguna, Michoacán. This detailed and lovely ofrenda was created to the memory of the family's maiden aunt, who died at 74. Because she had never married, even at her advanced age she was considered to be an angelito (little angel)–like an innocent child–and her spirit was called back home to the family on November 1, the day of the angelitos.  Be sure to click on the photo to see the details of the altar. Fruits, breads, incense, salt, flowers, colors, and candles have particular symbolism and are necessary parts of the ofrenda.

    Muertos Altar Nico Detail
    Detail of the ofrenda casera (home altar) shown above. Several local people told Mexico Cooks! that the fruit piled on the altar tasted different from fruit from the same source that had not been used for the ofrenda. "Compramos por ejemplo plátanos y pusimos unos en el altar y otros en la cocina para comer. Ya para el día siguiente, los del altar pierden su sabor, no saben a nada," they said.  'We bought bananas, for example, and we put some on the altar and the rest in the kitchen to eat.  The next day, the ones in the kitchen were fine, but the ones from the altar had no taste at all.'

    Muertos La Pacanda Generaciones
    Preparing a family member's ofrenda (altar) in the camposanto in the village of Arócutin, Michoacán. The camposanto–literally, holy ground–is a cemetery contained within the walls of a churchyard.  The candles used in this area of Michoacán are hand made in Ihuatzio and Santa Fé de la Laguna.

    Come with me along the unlit road that skirts the Lago de Pátzcuaro: Lake Pátzcuaro.  It's chilly and the roadside weeds are damp with earlier rain, but for the moment the sky has cleared and filled with stars.  Up the hill on the right and down the slope leading left toward the lake are tiny villages, dark but for the glow of tall candles lit one by one in the cemeteries.  Tonight is November 1, the night silent souls wend their way home from Mictlán, the land beyond life.

    Muertos Campo Santo Arócutin
    At the grave: candlelight to illuminate the soul's way, cempazúchitl (deeply orange marigolds) for their distinctive fragrance required to open the path back home, smoldering copal (frankincense) to cleanse the earth and air of any remnants of evil, covered baskets of the deceased's favorite foods.  And a low painted chair, where the living can rest through the night.

    Muertos La Pacanda Ofrenda
    Waiting through the night.  This tumba (grave) refused to be photographed head-on.  From an oblique angle, the tumba allowed its likeness to be made.

    Muertos Campo Santo Arócutin 2
    "Oh grave, where is thy victory?  Oh death, where is thy sting?"

    Noche de Muertos is not a costume party, although you may see it portrayed as such in the press.  It is not a drunken brawl, although certain towns appear to welcome that sort of blast-of-banda-music reventón (big blow-out).  It is not a tourist event, though strangers are certainly welcomed to these cemeteries. Noche de Muertos is a celebration of the spirit's life over the body's death, a festival of remembrance, a solemn passover.  Years ago, in an interview published in the New York Times, Mexico Cooks! said, "Noche de Muertos is about mutual nostalgia.  The living remember the dead, and the dead remember the taste of home."

    Muertos La Pacanda Velas
    One by one, grave by grave, golden cempazútchiles give shape to rock-bound tombs and long candles give light to what was a dark and lonely place, transforming the cemetery into a glowing garden.  How could a soul resist this setting in its honor?  

    Muertos Campo Santo Arócutin Better
    "Our hearts remember…" we promise the dead.  Church bells toll slowly throughout the night, calling souls home with their distinctive clamor (death knell).  Come…come home.  Come…come home.

    Muertos Viejita Arócutin
    Watching.  Prayers.  No me olvido de ti, mi viejo amado. (I haven't forgotten you, my dear old man.)

    Next year, come with me.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours

  • Revisiting Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) in the Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán Cemetery

    Tradiciones
    Graves decorated for Noche de los Muertos (Night of the Dead) in the Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán panteón (cemetery).  These recent graves lie within easy sight of the yácatas (Purhépecha pyramids, mid-center in the photograph) just across the road.  The yácatas, dating to as early as 900 A.D., were formerly both a priestly burial site and the site of ancient Purhépecha religious ceremonies.  

    Rituals for the traditional Noche y Día de los Muertos (Night and Day of the Dead) take place all over Mexico on the night of November 1 and the day of November 2.  One of the best-known celebrations of this enormously important spiritual holiday takes place in the town of Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán.   A visit to the town cemetery on November 2 gives just a small idea of the beauty of the events.  During this very Mexican, very special festival, the dead–at least in spirit–pay a visit to their loved ones here on earth.  In an article in 2005, The New York Times quoted Mexico Cooks! as saying, "It's about mutual nostalgia: the living remember the dead, and the dead remember the taste of home."

    Panteón Tzintzuntzan
    The packed-earth paths among the graves at the cemetery in Tzintzuntzan wind through old trees and dappled sunshine.

    Coche de Bebé
    This little car, decorated with cempasúchil (marigold) flowers, fruits, and pan de muertos (bread of the dead) in the shape of human figures, is the cemetery ofrenda (altar, or offering) for a baby born in October 2005 and dead the same November.  Tiny white baby shoes are on the car's hood, along with a baby bottle.  Click on any photo to enlarge it.

    The faithful Purhépecha believe that the angelitos, the dead children, are the first of the departed who come to re-visit their loved ones each year during the day of November 1, arriving early in the evening.  Their parents take an ofrenda (offering) of fruit, candies, and wooden toys to the children's graves and invite the little ones to come and eat.  Late in the night, the godfather of a dead child goes to the cemetery with a boveda (arch) made of cempasúchil (marigolds).  At home, the parents have already prepared beautiful altars to honor the memory and spirits of their children.

    Tumba con Veladoras
    Cempasúchiles, gladiolas, and candles adorn this grave.  The cross is made of red veladoras (candles in holders) in a framework of blue and white.

    Each year, late in the night of November 1, the spirits of deceased adults make their way back to this earthly plane to visit their relatives.  The living relatives, bearing food, bright golden flowers, strong drink, and other favorites of the dead, file into Purhépecha cemeteries to commune with those who have gone before.  The assembled lay out blankets, unfold chairs, bring out plastic cups, cartons of beer, a bottle of tequila, and assorted food for their own consumption as they settle in for the long, cold night of vigil.

    Canta a la Muerte
    A band or two or three often wander the cemetery, hired for a song or two or three to entertain the living and the dead.

    Copal incense burns, its mystic scent calling the souls of the dead home.  Candles, hundreds and hundreds of candles, flicker on and around the graves, showing the way home to the wandering spirits.  Food–especially corn tamales and churipo, a beef soup for festivals–and other personal gifts for the 'visitors' show the spirits that they are still valued members of their community.  Special Purhépecha-style pan de muertos (bread of the dead) in the form of human bodies represents the relationship between the living and the dead.  Seasonal fruits, including bananas, oranges, and limas, are hung on the ofrendas de cempasúchil to represent the relationship between nature and human beings.

    Ofrenda Angelito con Fotos
    This elaborate bóveda de cempasúchil (marigold arch) hung with an old family photograph and topped by a feather dove (the symbol of the Holy Spirit) decorates a family grave.  Under the photograph, an angel stands vigil.

    Panteón Comida
    During the Día y Noche de Muertos fiesta, a loved one's grave becomes a place to pray, party, and reminisce.  Candles, a glass of water to quench the deceased person's thirst, a bottle of his or her favorite liquor, and favorite foods such as mole or tamalespan de muertoscalabaza en tacha, and seasonal fresh fruits are always placed on the grave. Baskets of favorite foods, prepared especially for the spirits of deceased family members, are covered with beautiful hand-embroidered cloths.  The spirits partake of the food's essence; the living gather at the grave to partake of the material food.

    Ofrenda Arco con dos Cruces
    Marigolds are used as symbols for their yellow color, which resembles the gold that was used as decoration for the ancient grand festivals.  The flowers were used to adorn the visitor in the form of crowns or necklaces.  Today, the belief is that the ofrendas de cempasúchil (marigold arches) aid the visiting spirits to identify their homes.  Cempasúchil petals are also strewn over the bare earth mounds of the graves.

    Tzintzuntzan Coronas
    These modern coronas (wreaths) are made of ribbons and plastic, much more durable than fresh flowers.  The brilliant colors eventually fade over the course of a year, but the wreaths will stay up till next October.

    Pata de Leon
    Cempasúchilespata de león (lion's paw, as cockscomb is known in this part of Michoacán), freshly cut gladiola, nube (baby's breath) and just-in-season flor de las ánimas (flowers of the souls–wild orchids) from the mountains are the flowers most commonly used on Tzintzuntzan's graves.

    Bici Panteón
    My favorite ofrenda of 2009: a terrific full-size bicycle made of cempasúchiles, decorated with various fruits–including a pineapple on the seat!  The flowers at the base of the grave marker are flores de las ánimas (wild orchids).  This elaborate style of figural ofrenda is very unusual.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

     

  • Día y Noche de los Muertos: Another Look at the Day and Night of the Dead in Michoacán

    Catrinas Papel Maché
    Catrinas de papel maché (death-mocking skeletal figures made of paper maché).  The catrín (male figure) and catrina (female figure) come from the late 19th and early 20th Century drawings by political cartoonist José Guadalupe Posada.  Posada drew his skeletons dressed in finery of the Porfiriato (the era between 1875-1910 when Porfirio Díaz, a Francophile, ruled Mexico) to demonstrate the pointlessness of vanity in one's life that, in the end, covers nothing but bones.

    Día (y Noche) de los Muertos (Day or Night of the Dead) is celebrated in Mexico each year late on November 1 and early on November 2.  It's a festival both solemn and humorous, both sacred and profane: it's a wildly and uniquely Mexican fiesta (party), although other Latin American countries–Guatemala, Honduras, and Perú, among others–celebrate the dates in other ways.

    Called Día de los Muertos in most of Mexico, in Michoacán the fiesta is known as Noche de los Muertos.  The traditional celebrations in Purhépecha pueblos (indigenous towns) near Morelia are among the most famous in Mexico.

    Pan de Muertos Los Ortiz
    Everywhere in Mexico, it's traditional to eat pan de muertos (bread of the dead) before, during, and after the early November Día de los Muertos.  Mexico Cooks! photographed this gorgeous pan de muertos at Panadería Hornos Los Ortiz on Av. Vicente Santa María in Morelia.

    Catrinas Velia Torres
    These catrínes de barro (clay) are tremendously elegant.  They are the creations of acclaimed painter and bronze sculptor Juan Torres Calderón and his wife, clay sculptor Belia Canals.  Maestro Torres and Belia Canals work in Capula, Michoacán, where  in the early 1960s they started the now Mexico-wide tradition of clay catrines.

    Cohetero
    Cohetes (rockets) are another tradition for Día de los Muertos and other fiestas.  Coheteros carry bundles of long-stick rockets in local processions, lighting one after another during the duration of the parade.  The young boy walking behind the cohetero is carrying a pole to move electrical wires out of the way of the rockets.  The intense boom! boom! boom! of the cohetes announces the arrival of the procession.

    Calabaza Lista Pa'Comer
    Calabaza en tacha (squash in syrup) is one of the most traditional foods for a Diá de los Muertos ofrenda (home or cemetery altar to honor the deceased). Delicious for breakfast or for a light supper, this squash brings the flavors and scents of home to the dearly departed.

    Panteón Comida
    During the Día y Noche de Muertos fiesta, a loved one's grave becomes a place to pray, party, and reminisce.  Candles, a glass of water to quench the deceased person's thirst, a bottle of his or her favorite liquor, and favorite foods such as mole or tamales, pan de muertoscalabaza en tacha, and seasonal fresh fruits are always placed on the grave. 

    During this very Mexican, very special festival, the dead–at least in spirit–pay a visit to their loved ones here on earth.  It's a mutual nostalgia: the living remember the dead, and the dead remember the taste of home.

    Ofrenda Monseñor
    An acquaintance in Pátzcuaro dedicated this very large ofrenda (offering, or altar) to his deceased parents and other family members.  The colors, the candles, the foods, the photos, and the flowers are all part of the old traditional altar decoration.

    Next week, Mexico Cooks! will take you to one of the most important cemeteries in Mexico for a last look at the special Michoacán traditional commemoration of Noche de los Muertos .

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.