Category: Anniversary

  • Good Friday Procession of Silence, Morelia, Michoacán :: Viernes Santo Procesión del Silencio

    Due to the restrictions of COVID-19 in 2020 and 2021, the procession was shown in a different format via virtual transmissionLike many virtual events during the pandemic, a virtual platform was not the same as being face to face with the enormity of the Crucifixion.  Viernes Santo (Good Friday) fell on April 15, 2022. For the first time in two years, the actual Procesión del Silencio (Procession of Silence) took place live on Avenida Madero, Morelia's main street.  

    Drummers
    Hooded drummers marked the beat of Morelia's penitential Procesión del Silencio: Good Friday's silent procession commemorating both the crucifixion of Christ and his Mother's grief.  Only the drumbeat broke the silence along the route.

    Dolores 1
    Nuestra Señora de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows).  Hooded members of various Catholic confraternities (religious organizations founded in Europe in the 15th Century) carry these life-size statues on their wooden platforms approximately three kilometers through Morelia's Centro Histórico.

    Rezando en la Huerta
    Jesus during la Oración en el Huerto (praying in the Garden of Gethsemane), just prior to his arrest on Holy Thursday night.  Boy Scouts (the young man in red at the right of the photo) hold the protective rope all along the route of the procession.

    Cristo en el Pilar
    El Señor del Pilar (the Lord of the Column) depicts Jesus, bound to a column, and whipped by Roman soldiers after his conviction.

    Soldados Romanos
    Roman soldiers.

    Veladora 2
    The majority of Morelia's Procesión del Silencio takes place after dark, by candlelight.  

    Legion de Jesús
    The Legion of Christ carry their banner and their lamps.  The Procesión del Silencio lasts about four hours.  During that time, all of Morelia's Centro Histórico is closed to vehicular traffic.

    La Cruz a Cuestas
    Jesus carries the cross a cuestas (on his back) to Calvary.  More than 50,000 spectators stood along the entire route of Morelia's Procesión del Silencio.

    Cargando la Cruz 2
    Penitents from one of Morelia's confraternities carry their crosses the length of the procession.  Many march barefoot through the city streets.  The procession will celebrate its forty-first anniversary this year.  

    Cristo en la Cruz
    Robed and hooded members of another Catholic confraternity carry a small image of the crucified Christ.  As a sign of penitence, tall pointed hoods called capirotes cover the faces of those who march.

    Antorchas
    Clothed in gold and black, these marching penitents carry huge metal torches.

    Cristo Muerto
    Six men of all ages carry Cristo Muerto (the dead Christ), while six others follow as relief when the burden of the image, the platform, the lights, and the flowers becomes too heavy.  The man at the far right of the photo carries one of two saw horses used to support the platform during occasional pauses in the procession.

    Nuestra Señora de Soledad
    At the end of the Procesión del Silencio, la Virgen de la Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude) follows the body of her crucified Son.  The platform bearing her image holds burning candles, a purple and gold velvet canopy, and banks of fresh flowers.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Another Year Has Passed :: Time for Chiles en Nogada (Stuffed Poblano Chiles in Walnut Sauce)

    Chiles en Nogada
    It's that time of year again: time for chiles en nogada!  The photo above is of beautifully home-prepared chiles en nogada, as presented several years ago at a traditional food exhibition in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.

    Nuez Pelado
    This year's freshly harvested and peeled nuez de castilla (walnuts), an essential for seasonal chiles en nogada.  The nut meats must be perfectly white, with no pieces of the papery brown peel left at all.  This step is the fiddley-est part of the recipe.  You can do it, it just takes patience.  If you have school-age children, get them to help you.

    Mexico celebrates its independence the entire month of September with parades, parties, and traditional food and drink, served in restaurants and at home.  The traditional festive dish during the weeks just before and after the Independence Day holiday is chiles en nogada, a magnificent tribute to the seasonal availability of a certain kind of peach, a particular kind of pear (the pera lechera), the locally grown panochera apple, newly in-season granadas (pomegranates) and nuez de castilla (freshly harvested walnuts). From mid-July until early October, seasonal local fruits, fresh pomegranates, and newly harvested walnuts make chiles en nogada possible.  Mildly spicy chiles poblano, stuffed with a special kind of picadillo and topped with richly creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, flaunt the brilliant green, white and red of the Mexican flag. 

    Manzana panochera y pera lechera
    The panochera apple, grown in the Mexican state of Puebla, and pera lechera (milky pear), also grown in the area, are two must-have ingredients for making chiles en nogada in Mexico.  If you live outside central Mexico, a small crisp apple and a very crisp pear (Bosc or d'Anjou) would substitute.

    This festive dish is traditionally served on September 15 or 16 in honor of Mexico's Independence Day, though it is popular anytime in the late summer and fall. During August and September in the highlands of Mexico, particularly in Mexico City and Puebla, vendors wander through tianguis (street markets) and other markets, selling the clean, white meats of nuez de castilla. It is important to use the freshest walnuts possible, as they produce such a creamy, rich sauce that it is worth the effort to buy them peeled or peel them oneself.  Yes, the recipe is time-consuming (not difficult, just takes time)…but you and your guests will jump up and shout "VIVA!" when they've licked the platters clean. 

    Ingredients

    For the meat:  

    • 2 pounds beef brisket or other stew meat or 1 pound beef and 1 pound pork butt*
    • 1 small white onion, quartered 
    • 2 large cloves garlic 
    • about 1 Tbsp sea salt
      *
      You can, if you are in a pinch for time, use equal quantities of coarsely ground beef and pork.  Brown them before adding other ingredients.

     For the picadillo (filling):  

    • 4 Tbsp safflower or canola oil
    • the shredded meat (or the ground meat)
    • 1/3 cup chopped white onion
    • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
    • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • 1/8 tsp ground cloves
    • pinch pimienta gorda (allspice)
    • 1/2 plátano macho (plantain), chopped fine
    • 1 or 2 chiles serrano, finely minced
    • 4 Tbsp chopped fresh walnuts 
    • 4 Tbsp slivered blanched almonds
    • 2 Tbsp finely diced biznaga (candied cactus, optional)
    • 1 fresh pear, peeled and chopped
    • 1 apple, peeled and chopped
    • 4 ripe peaches, peeled and diced
    • 3 Tbsp Mexican pink pine nuts.  Don't substitute white if you aren't able to find pink.  White pine nuts have a bitter aftertaste.
    • 3 large, ripe tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
    • sea salt to taste

    Flaneur Chiles Poblanos Rojos Tehuaca?n 2016
    Fully mature chiles poblano, picked fresh and sold on the street in Tehuacán, Puebla, very close to where the chiles are grown. 

    Chile Poblano
    Deep green chiles poblano are normally used for chiles en nogada.  These measure as much as seven inches long. If you click on the photo to make it larger, you can see that these chiles have deep, long grooves running down their sides. When I'm buying them, I choose chiles poblano that are as smooth and flat as possible on their broad flat sides.  The flat smoothness makes them easier to roast easily.  

    For the chiles:

    –6 fresh chiles poblanos, roasted, peeled, slit open, and seeded, leaving the stem intact   

     For the nogada (walnut sauce):  

    • 1 cup freshly harvested nuez de castilla (walnuts), peeled of all brown membrane** 
    • 6 ounces queso de cabra (goat cheese), queso doble crema or standard cream cheese (not fat free) at room temperature 
    • 1-1/2 cups crema mexicana or 1-1/4 cups sour cream thinned with milk 
    • about 1/2 tsp sea salt or to taste
    • 1 Tbsp sugar   
    • 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 cup dry sherry (optional)

    **Please note that this recipe is correctly made with walnuts, not pecans.  Using pecans will give your sauce a non-traditional flavor and a beige color, rather than pure white.

    Pomegranate
    Remove the arils (seeds) from a pomegranate.  

    Bonjour Paris Granada con Otras Frutas
    We who live in Mexico are fortunate to find pomegranate seeds ready to use, sold in plastic cups.  See them at the top of the photo, with the pink plastic spoons stuck into the cups?

    For the garnish 

    –1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
    –1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds 

    Preparation:

    Cut the meat into large chunks, removing any excess fat. Place the meat into a large Dutch oven with the onion, garlic, and salt. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that collects on the surface. Lower the heat and allow the water to simmer about 45 minutes, until the meat is just tender. Take the pot off the stove and let the meat cool in the broth. Remove the pieces of meat and finely shred them. 

    Biznaga cristalizada
    Candied biznaga (aka acitrón) cactus.  Do try to find this ingredient in your local market.  There isn't an adequate substitute, so if you don't find it, leave it out.

    Pin?on Rosado Mexico 1
    Mexican pink pine nuts.  Their taste is sweeter than the standard white ones, and they leave no bitter aftertaste in your dish.  If you can't find these pink pine nuts, you can substitute the white ones.

    Warm the oil in a large, heavy skillet and sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat until they turn a pale gold. Stir in the shredded or ground meats and cook for five minutes. Add the cinnamon, pepper, and cloves, then, stir in the two tablespoons of chopped walnuts. Add the chopped pear, apple, and finely diced biznaga cactus, and mix well. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste, and continue cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture has evaporated. Stir often so that the mixture doesn't stick. Let cool, cover, and set aside. The picadillo may be made and refrigerated a day or two in advance of final preparations.

    Roasted Chiles Poblano 1
    Roasted chiles poblano, ready to peel, seed, and stuff.  Photo courtesy Delicious Mexican Recipes.

    Roast and eel the chiles and make a slit down the side of each chile, just long enough to remove the seeds and veins. Keep the stem end intact. Drain the chiles, cut side down, on paper towels until completely dry. Cover and set aside. The chiles may be prepared a day in advance. 

    At least three hours in advance, put the walnuts in a small pan of water, boiling over high heat. Remove from the heat and let them sit for five minutes. Drain the nuts and, when cool, rub off as much of the dark skin as possible.  Chop the nuts into small pieces. Place the nuts, cream cheese, crema, and salt in a blender and purée thoroughly. Stir in the sugar, cinnamon, and sherry until thoroughly combined. Chill for several hours. 

    Preheat the oven to 250ºF. When ready to serve, reheat the meat filling and stuff the chiles until they are plump and just barely closed. Put the filled chiles, covered, to warm slightly in the oven. After they are thoroughly heated, place the chiles (cut side down) on a serving platter or on individual plates, cover with the chilled walnut sauce, and sprinkle with the chopped parsley and pomegranate seeds. 

    Azul Histo?rico Chile en Nogada
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Azul Histórico, Mexico City.

    Chile en Nogada Celia Florian Oaxaca 1
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Las Quince Letras, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca.

    This dish may be served at room temperature, or it may be served slightly chilled. It is rarely if ever served hot. 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • The Traditional Mexican Kitchen :: Is It Authentic, or What?

    I wrote and first published this article in 2010, in response to inquiries from readers who were confused about other authors' articles about "What is authentic Mexican food?"  The subject has come up again and again, most recently in comments and queries from readers and food professionals about Mexican and other cuisines. I still stand behind what I wrote nearly 10 years ago.

    Chiles Rellenos Conde Pétatl
    "Real" Mexican chile relleno (stuffed, battered, and fried chile poblano), caldillo de jitomate (thin tomato broth), and frijoles negros (black beans).  Notice that the chile is not suffocated with globs of melted cheese.  

    More and more people who want to experience "real" Mexican food are asking about the availability of authentic Mexican meals outside Mexico. Bloggers and posters on food-oriented websites have vociferously definite opinions on what constitutes authenticity. Writers' claims range from the uninformed (the fajitas at such-and-such a restaurant are totally authentic, just like in Mexico) to the ridiculous (Mexican cooks in Mexico can't get good ingredients, so Mexican meals prepared in the United States are superior to those in Mexico).

    Blind Men and Elephant
    Much of what I read about authentic Mexican cooking reminds me of that old story of the blind men and the elephant. "Oh," says the first blind man, running his hands up and down the elephant's leg, "an elephant is exactly like a tree."  "Aha," says the second, stroking the elephant's trunk, "the elephant is precisely like a hose."  And so forth. I contend that if you haven't experienced what most writers persist in calling "authentic Mexican", then there's no way to compare any restaurant in the United States with anything that is prepared or served in Mexico. You're simply spinning your wheels.

    It's my considered opinion that there is no such thing as one definition of authentic Mexican. Wait, before you start hopping up and down to refute that, consider that in my opinion, "authentic" is generally what you were raised to appreciate. Your mother's pot roast is authentic, but so is my mother's. Your aunt's tuna salad is the real deal, but so is my aunt's, and they're not the least bit similar.  And Señora Martínez in Mexico makes yet another version of tuna salad, very different from any I've eaten in the USA.

    Fonda Margarita Carne de Cerdo en Salsa Verde
    Carne de puerco en salsa verde (pork meat in green sauce), a traditional recipe as served at the restaurant Fonda Margarita in Mexico City.

    Carne y Salsa Listo para Hornear
    Carne de puerco en salsa verde from the Mexico Cooks! home kitchen.  The preparation looks similar to that at Fonda Margarita, but I tweak a thing or two that make the recipe my personal tradition, different from the restaurant's.

    As you can see, the descriptor I use for many dishes is 'traditional'. We can even argue about that adjective, but it serves to describe the traditional dish of–oh, say carne de puerco en chile verde–as served in the northern part of Mexico, in Mexico City, in the Central Highlands, or in the Yucatán. There may be big variations among the preparations of this dish, but each preparation is traditional and each is considered authentic in its region.

    I think that in order to understand the cuisines of Mexico, we have to give up arguing about authenticity and concentrate on the reality of certain dishes.

    Chiles en Nogada
    A nearly 200-year-old tradition in Mexico that shows up every September: chiles en nogada (stuffed chiles poblano in a creamy sauce made with fresh (i.e., recently harvested) walnuts.  It's the Mexican flag on your plate: green chile poblano, creamy white walnut sauce, and red pomegranate arils.  But hoo boy–there are arguments to the death about the "authentic" way to prepare these chiles: battered or not battered?  Put up your dukes!  (I fall on the not-battered side, in case you wondered.  God help me.)

    Traditional Mexican cooking is not a hit-or-miss let's-make-something-for-dinner proposition based on "let's see what we have in the despensa (pantry)." Traditional Mexican cooking is as complicated and precise as traditional French cooking, with just as many hide-bound conventions as French cuisine imposes. You can't just throw some chiles and a glob of chocolate into a sauce and call it mole. You can't simply decide to call something "authentic" Mexican x, y, or z when it's not. There are specific recipes to follow, specific flavors and textures to expect, and specific results to attain. Yes, some liberties are taken, particularly in Mexico's new alta cocina mexicana (Mexican haute cuisine) and fusion restaurants, but even those liberties are based, we hope, on specific traditional recipes.  As Alicia Gironella d'Angeli (a true grande dame of Mexico's kitchen) often said to me, "Cristina, you cannot de-construct a dish until you have learned to construct it."  Amen.

    In recent readings of food-oriented websites, I've noticed questions about what ingredients are available in Mexico. The posts have gone on to ask whether or not those ingredients are up to snuff when compared to what's available in what the writer believes to be more sophisticated food sources such as the United States.

    Jamaica No Lo Piense Mucho
    Deep red, vine-ripened plum tomatoes, available all year long in central Mexico. The sign reads, "Don't think about it much–take home a little kilo!"  At twelve pesos the kilo, these Mexico-grown tomatoes, brought to market red-ripe, cost approximately 75 cents USD for 2.2 pounds.

    Surprise, surprise: most readily available fresh foods in Mexico's markets are even better than similar ingredients you find outside Mexico. Foreign chefs who tour with me to visit Mexico's stunning produce, fish, and meat markets are inevitably astonished to see that what is grown for the ordinary home-cook end user in Mexico is fresher, riper, more flavorful, more attractive, and much less costly than similar ingredients available in the United States.

    Pollo Listo para Caldo
    Chicken, ready for the pot.  The chickens raised in Mexico for our food are generally fed ground marigold petals mixed into their feed–that's why the flesh is so pink, the skin so yellow, and why the egg yolks are like big orange suns.

    It's the same with most meats: pork and chicken are head and shoulders above what you find in North of the Border supermarkets. Fish and seafood are direct-from-the-sea fresh and distributed by air within just an hour or two from any of Mexico's long coastlines.

    Fresa Mercado de Jamaica March 2016 1
    Look at the quality of Mexico's fresh, locally grown, seasonal strawberries–and the season starts right now, in February.  Deep red to its center, a strawberry like this is hard to find in other countries.

    Nevertheless, Mexican restaurants in the United States make do with the less-than-superior ingredients found outside Mexico. In fact, some downright delicious traditional Mexican meals can be had in some north of the border Mexican restaurants. Those restaurants are hard to find, though, because in the States, most of what has come to be known as Mexican cooking is actually Tex-Mex or Cal-Mex cooking. There's nothing wrong with Tex-Mex and Cal-Mex cooking, nothing at all. It's just not traditional Mexican cooking.  Tex-Mex is great food from a particular region of the United States. Some of it is adapted from Mexican cooking and some is the invention of early Texas settlers. Some innovations are adapted from both of those points of origin.  Fajitas, ubiquitous on Mexican restaurant menus all over the United States, are a typical Tex-Mex invention.  Now available in some of Mexico's restaurants, fajitas are offered to the tourist trade as prototypically authentic. 

    Pozole Blanco Moctezuma
    Pozole blanco (white pozole) with delicious clear broth that starts with a a long-simmered whole pig's head, nixtamalized native white cacahuatzintle corn, and lots of tender, flavorful pork meat.  Add to the pot some herbs and spices.  Then add hunks of avocado at the table–along with a squeeze or two of limón criollo (you know it as Key lime), some crushed, dried Mexican oregano, crushed, dried chile de árbol, and, if you like, a tablespoon or two of mezcal.  Traditional and heavenly!

    You need to know that the best of Mexico's cuisines is not found in restaurants. It comes straight from somebody's mama's kitchen. Clearly not all Mexicans are good cooks, just as not all Chinese are good cooks, not all Italians are good cooks, and so forth. But the most traditional, the most (if you will) authentic Mexican meals are home prepared.

    DK Pensativa 2
    Diana Kennedy, UNAM 2011.  Mrs. Kennedy was at the Mexican National Autonomous University to present her book, Oaxaca Al Gusto.

    That reality is what made Diana Kennedy who she is today: she took the time to travel Mexico, searching for the best of the best of the traditional preparations. For the most part, she didn't find them in fancy restaurants, homey comedores (small commercial dining rooms) or fondas (tiny working-class restaurants). She found them as she stood facing the stove in a home kitchen, watching doña Fulana prepare desayuno (breakfast), comida (the midday main meal of the day), or cena (supper) for her family.  Ms. Kennedy, an English woman, took the time to educate her palate, understand the ingredients, taste what was offered to her, and learn, learn, learn from home cooks before she started putting traditional recipes, techniques, and stories on paper. If we take the time to prepare recipes from any of Ms. Kennedy's many cookbooks, we too can take advantage of her wealth of experience and can come to understand what traditional Mexican cooking can be.  Her books will bring Mexico's kitchens to you when you are not able to go to Mexico.  But please: do follow the recipes, or your dish will come out different from what it is supposed to be.

    Abigail Mendoza Mole Negro at Home
    My dear friend Abigail Mendoza, cocinera tradicional (traditional home cook) from Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca, prepares a vat of mole negro (black mole, the king of moles) for a large party she invited me to attend at her home.

    In order to understand the cuisines of Mexico, we need to experience their riches. Until that time, we can argue till the cows come home and you'll still be just another blind guy patting the beast's side and exclaiming how the elephant is mighty like a wall.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809 in Morelia, Michoacán :: Happy First Anniversary!

    Consp Logo Bigger
    In English, the name of Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809 is, "The Plot of 1809"–plot as in spying, clandestine whispers, sneaking around, closed-door planning, state secrets, heroes, and Mexico's fight for independence.  See the upside-down crown at the base of the restaurant's logo (above)?  It's a clear sign that Spanish rule–the rule of the crown–was about to be overturned by the plotters.  And why is this important to Morelia, Michoacán?  Morelia is where the plotting started–the plot that would eventually bring about Mexico's independence from Spain.  Little clues all over the restaurant's interior let the diner in on the plot.  If you see something unusual while you're dining, ask what it means!  But shhhh…  All photos courtesy La Conspiración unless otherwise noted.

    Consp Exterior 1
    Located in the recently renovated Portal Allende, just behind and with a glorious view of Morelia's beautiful cathedral, La Conspiración offers the diner a choice of under-roof outdoor seating or seating in the elegant indoor rooms.  The owners closely monitor the entire ambience, ensuring that a client's time at the restaurant is quiet, relaxing, and filled with delight.  

    Consp Catedral de Noche 1
    In the evening, when you're relaxing at La Conspiración outside under the portales (arches), you can easily see the sky-high towers and the blue dome of the Cathedral–illuminated by soft white lighting, the lovely view will take your breath away.  Photo Mexico Cooks!.

    Let's talk just a little about the history of Mexico's independence from Spain–then I promise we'll talk about what's on the menu for you at La Conspiración.

    Consp Heroes de la Independencia
    Just a few of the most important conspirators in the fight for Mexico's independence.  At bottom right, wearing a white headscarf, is José María Morelos y Pavón, one of the first conspirators to join the plot.  The city of Morelia, originally named Valladolid, was renamed "Morelia" in 1828, to honor his heroism during the struggle for freedom from the rule of Spain.

    In September of 1809, in Valladolid (today known as Morelia), Michoacán, several people, including military man José Mariano Michelena, several other men born in Nueva España of Spanish parents, including a priest and a monk, began a secret movement with the goal of overthrowing the Spanish government of the country we now know as Mexico.  Among other plans, they infiltrated a meeting of indigenous people in case it were necessary to take up arms against the Spanish, even though the preference was a peaceful takeover.

    The plot was discovered on December 21, 1809 and the members were imprisoned.  Nevertheless, their influence had spread roots in the states of Querétaro and Guanajuato.  In San Miguel el Grande, Guanajuato, Admiral Ignacio Allende, Father Miguel Hidalgo, and Miguel Domínguez and his wife, Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez, continued to work to plot the fight for independence from Spain.  On September 15, 1810, Father Hidalgo gave the cry for independence on the steps of the church of Nuestra Señora de Dolores, in what is today the city called Dolores Hidalgo, in Mexico's state of Guanajuato.

    Hidalgo con Estandar
    Father Hidalgo with the Estandarte de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, the banner with which he led the insurgents during the fight for independence.

    In 1821, Spain and "Nueva España" signed the Treaty of Córdoba, ending Spain's rule over Nueva España (now Mexico).

    Consp Personal 1
    Expect to see your attentive wait staff in elegant vintage-style uniforms at Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809.  No detail has been overlooked: from staff uniforms to bar ware to unique copper bathroom fixtures, you can count on chef Martínez and Sr. González to give you the best.

    Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809 opened on October 20, 2017, exactly one year ago today.  Cynthia Martínez Becerril, the owner/chef, and her front-of-the-house partner Roberto González, head the restaurant and form an anchor in Portal Allende.  The restaurant, open every day from 12:00 noon until midnight, offers cozy, quiet dining in a truly elegant setting, a setting where you can go in casual clothing or your best gala dress, where you can enjoy live music (even on the sidewalk) vetted by the owners, and where the food is traditional, or inventive, or bar-style, but inevitably marvelous.  Everything from the courtesy-of-the-house shot glass of spicy, tangy shrimp broth to
    the over-the-top desserts will delight your palate.

    Consp Bar and Tenders
    The beautiful bar, fully stocked with just about anything you might like to drink, welcomes you to La Conspiración.

    Consp Mural Privado 1
    Planning a private dinner party?  Imagine yourself and your guests in this room, surrounded by the luxury of a hand-painted tropical mural.

    Consp Machitos
    An appetizer of machitos Michoacán style to share–traditionally made of beef small intestine–served with salsa borracha (literally "drunken" sauce–made with beer) and just-made guacamole.  

    Consp Sopa Tarasca

    Sopa Tarasca, a classic soup from Michoacán's kitchen, is based on a recipe from Morelia's longtime chef, Sra. Livier Ruíz.  It's topped with drizzles of Mexican table cream, fried tortilla strips, and fried black chiles.  This superb version is bean-based, while another equally excellent version is not.  Both versions are traditional to Michoacán.

    Consp Crema de Ajos
    Cream of roasted garlic soup, served with dehydrated jamón de serrano (thinly sliced crisp Spanish-style ham), crunchy tomato, and a delicious crouton of pan de agua.  

    Consp Pasta con Mole
    House-made mole with pasta: chef Cynthia's creation, and one that I thought might be an extremely unlikely combination of two worlds.  The truth is, this dish works to satisfy you in a deep way that you'll really love. 

    Consp Chamorro
    Long-cooked chamorro (pork shank), big and meaty and served in a richly spiced sauce.  Accompanied by steamed rice and refried black beans.  

    Consp Rib Eye con Alcaparras y Papas Gajo con Ensalada
    Ribeye steak, broiled to your taste, with capers and potato wedges, plus a small salad.

    Consp Uchepos
    Uchepos de nata are Michoacán's fresh corn tamales. These are served with Mexican table cream, queso fresco (a crumbly fresh cheese), and molcajete-made salsa–or if you prefer, a salsa de chile poblano (poblano chile sauce).

    Consp Nieves
    For dessert, a basket of house-made peanut marzipan ice cream with fresh seasonal fruits grown in Michoacán, one of Mexico's primary producers of strawberries, blackberries, and red raspberries.

    Consp Concha con Natas
    Last but not least, the completely outrageous and exquisitely sinful concha con natas, served with ice cream and English-style custard, and topped with a lacy, decorative, burned tortilla.  If you've had a full meal, you might want to consider sharing this extraordinary delicacy with your dinner companion.  But order it, you won't regret it.  Photo courtesy Mexico Cooks!.  

    Provecho!
      (Mexico's bon appetit!)

    Consp Staff Cocina
    Chef Cynthia Martínez (front, center) and part of the restaurant staff.  Happy anniversary to the whole team at La Conspiración!  May you have a joyous day and many more to come.

    Restaurante La Conspiración de 1809
    Portal Allende 209
    Centro Histórico
    Morelia, Michoacán 58000
    Cell: 014431580443
    Landline: 4436906820 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Mexico City Earthquake :: We Interrupt Our Regular Programing…

    Plaza Rio de Janeiro de Arriba
    Beautiful Plaza Río de Janeiro, Colonia Roma Norte, Mexico City. The tall pink building on the right-hand side of the photo is (was, I suppose) the home of a friend.  It was seriously damaged in the quake and all residents were evacuated. Photo courtesy Capt. Ricardo Gómez Garrido and Pinterest.  

    At 11:00AM on September 19, 2017, the 32nd anniversary of the 1985 Mexico City earthquake, the nation as a whole took a few moments to sound its earthquake alarms as a test run for city residents to practice precautions, and as a memorial to the many, many thousands of people who lost their lives in Mexico City that day so long ago.  The earthquake alarm is arguably the most shocking sound in this city where I live.  There are 8000 alarm speakers set up, one or more in every neighborhood; one of them is just on the corner, only one door from my apartment building.  The horrible and unmistakeable sound–alerta sísmica alerta sísmica alerta sísmica, accompanied by unspeakable sirens–comes directly into my home office window.  As 11:00AM approached, I steeled myself and warned the cats; the alarm went off as scheduled, stopped within a minute or so, and we all breathed a sigh of relief.

    Two hours and fourteen minutes later, all hell broke loose.  A massive earthquake, 7.1 on the Richter scale, shallow and with a nearby epicenter, crashed into Mexico City with no warning.  Due to its proximity, there was no time to sound the alarm until the quake had already started.  As is usually the case, the neighborhood where I live and the neighborhood nearest me were hardest hit.  There are geological reasons for that, but no need to elaborate on those now.  Parts of the whole city sustained serious damage; at last count, about 50 buildings collapsed, thousands more are in danger of collapsing, more than 400 people lost their lives, and thousands more are seriously injured.

    El Pai?s Condesa Colapsado
    This building collapsed in my neighborhood.  Photo courtesy El País.

    On September 24, a young Mexico City woman whom I do not know used social media to express her thoughts, feelings, and experiences as she volunteered that day with an earthquake relief effort.  I contacted her and asked her permission to translate her writing into English and publish it here.  She calls herself "Al" and she asked that I not publish a photograph of her.  She says she's not a writer, although in my opinion she most definitely is.  
    ___________________________________________________________

    "Yesterday I spent six hours helping at Ground Zero on Calle Escocia, in the Del Valle neighborhood of Mexico City. I had stayed overnight at my parents’ home, and got up at 6:30AM. My mother made breakfast for me while I was getting ready, and then I lined up to go to the place where volunteers were to gather.

    Escocia con Gabriel Mancera
    "Al" wrote about the wreckage and rescue efforts at this building. Photo courtesy El Universal.

    Those in charge explained to us that we women were to pass empty buckets to the Mexican army, who were going to fill them with rubble and then pass them to two lines of men who were behind us, pressed up against the walls. The army was to move any metal, glass, furniture, and other more dangerous objects. They knew how inexperienced most of us volunteers were and they didn’t want us to run any risks.

    In order for us to go in, they gave us equipment—helmet, gloves, vest, and face masks. They used permanent markers to write our name, a contact number, and blood type on our arms. They vaccinated us against tetanus.

    And then we went into Ground Zero in silence, our cellular phones turned off. Right after a 45 minute delay due to the scare of the second earthquake [Saturday 23 September, a 6.2 aftershock from the earthquake on September 7, 2017], the army immediately put us to work. We had to wait while Civil Defense made sure that it was safe to go into the building.

    My eyes could not believe what they were seeing: I had never seen a collapsed building, never thought how a structure so strong and solid could become a mountain of rubble and memories. The “line of life”, as we called it, began its work, and we put thinking aside in order to be able do our job.

    Daniel Aguilar El Universal Buckets Sept 2017
    The 'line of life'.  Photo courtesy Daniel Águilar and El Universal.

    While we were actively working, other volunteers continuously offered us donated water, electrolytes, candies, tamales, and hard-boiled eggs. We volunteers preferred not to eat; we just took candies and left the food for the army and the engineers. Doctors came through continuously, asking if we were feeling all right, putting drops in our eyes, and helping people out of the building if they looked over-tired.

    Passing buckets, even the big paint-bucket size ones we had, seems simple, but after an hour I felt blisters on my hands and cramps in my shoulders. I knew I was not the only one tired when buckets began to drop from the hands of other volunteers. Some shouted, “Be careful! Those could break!” The men tried to make us feel better, saying we were doing great work.

    Meanwhile, we tried to concentrate so as not to delay the work as we watched pieces of other people’s lives go by: shoes, photographs, chairs, clothing, blankets, pictures from their walls. Objects that they surely obtained from their own efforts and dedication, and now they are nothing. A wheelbarrow, thrown aside by the masonry workers who were removing bigger pieces of the wreckage, grabbed my attention
    . In the wheelbarrow was a set of brand new drinking glasses, still in their wrapped box.

    As the women at the head of the ‘line of life’ withdrew, those behind them advanced. I came closer to the head of the line, and suddenly I saw a car among the ruin of the building’s parking garage: a bright-red Nissan Sentra, undamaged. Nevertheless, the garage entrance is blocked, so the car will never get out unharmed.

    La Jornada Escombros y Fotos
    Memories among the wreckage.  Photo courtesy La Jornada.

    Nobody is taking selfies, nobody is playing music, no one talks, no one makes jokes or acts lazy. Respect is tangible. The entire area is filled with mourning. Yesterday, workers here rescued a pug dog and a cat, which tells us that there is still the possibility of life among the rubble. If we do our work efficiently, it could make the difference between life and death for someone else.

    The Army, the Navy, and the engineers work tirelessly. We have a crane that operates with millimeter-sharp precision, moving walls as the driver is instructed so that the search for life can continue; when the crane is working, there is absolute silence. The Mexican flag waves on the tip of the crane as it maneuvers, and my heart expands. The military men stand shoulder to shoulder in front of us volunteers to protect us from the massive cement walls that the crane manipulates.

    Once a wall is on the ground, the men take up their pickaxes and in minutes turn the wall into pieces. Our work starts again: pass the buckets as fast as possible to get the hunks of cement out fast, as fast as possible. The buckets come back with the men, the wheelbarrows come and go, the army takes the riskiest material away. My throat aches, my heart hurts even worse, my soul grows larger as I see the massive and selfless effort put forth to help others.

    DAniel Aguilar Fila de Cubetas
    Photo courtesy Daniel Águilar and El Universal.

    The rescue team from Chile arrives to help; they climb up to evaluate the ruins. Our activity continues hour after hour. I get used to my companions; I know that the one on the left is quick, but the one on the right is scatterbrained. I keep helping her so we don’t get behind. Because of her helmet and her face mask, it’s hard to tell how old she is, but many are much younger than I—the majority of the volunteers are younger.

    After a while, one of the engineers asks what time we started work. 8:30AM. He says we need to leave, but my companion on the left and I say that we can keep working for a couple of hours longer. He says it’s almost three o’clock—I can scarcely believe it!—and that we need to stop now so that our exhaustion doesn’t cause an accident. They stop the ‘line of life’ and announce that a convoy will leave with fifteen women. We leave our buckets and head out toward Calle Escocia, in the direction of Calle Eugenia. While we are leaving, people drop what they have in their hands, take off their gloves, and start applauding us: the volunteers, the paramedics, the engineers, the masonry workers. Someone from the army shouts: “Long live our brave Mexican women!”

    Among applause and cheering, with my eyes on the ground and holding back tears, I leave Ground Zero. Our group turns toward Calle Eugenia, I turn in my equipment, and people offer me fruit, food, and water as they congratulate me. With many thank yous, I continue on my way out. As I walk, I realize that I am alone: I don’t know where my companions are, but I would have liked to say goodbye to them.

    Daniel Aguilar El Universal Perro de Rescate Sept 2017
    Rescue dogs have been critical to the relief effort.  Photo courtesy Daniel Águilar and El Universal.

    Everything hurts, I’m so hungry, my face is burning and I feel dizzy. A volunteer notices and she stops me and takes me to a control booth, where they give me a banana and a soft drink. I wait a few minutes and go out through the cordoned-off area, where the volunteers who will relieve us and the police applaud me again. I’ve never gotten so much attention, and I only smile. Fame is not my thing. I take a grateful breath, I comb my dust-stiffened hair, shake off my pants a little, and keep walking toward Calle Gabriel Mancera. I think about what I have lived through, proud of my work and above all, that I didn’t cry in front of the others. This ends when I see my mother waiting for me at the first checkpoint, among the dump trucks waiting to take away more rubble.

    We are so fortunate to have all that we do. The least we can do is help those who are going through such difficult times. A friend took a picture of me as I arrived at her house, so that I would never forget what I learned and felt that day. And I won’t."
    __________________________________________________________________

     None of us will forget, Al.  Thank you and God bless you.

  • Chiles en Nogada, El Rey de los Chiles :: Chiles in Walnut Sauce, The King of Chiles

    Chile en Nogada Fonda Fina Aug 21 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada (chile poblano stuffed with a seasonal filling and topped with fresh walnut sauce, chopped parsley, walnut meats, and pomegranates), as served by chef Juan Cabrera Barron at Fonda Fina, Mexico City, August 21, 2017.

    Freshly Cut Walnuts Chile en Nogada
    Freshly cut nuez de castilla (walnuts), an essential for seasonal chiles en nogada.  Photo courtesy El Sol de Puebla.

    Mexico celebrates its independence the entire month of September with parades, parties, and traditional food and drink, served in restaurants and at home.  The traditional festive dish during the weeks just before and after the Independence Day holiday is chiles en nogada, a magnificent tribute to the seasonal availability of a certain kind of peach, the locally grown panochera apple, in-season granadas (pomegranates) and nuez de castilla (freshly harvested walnuts). From mid-July until early October, seasonal local fruits, fresh pomegranates, and newly harvested walnuts make chiles en nogada possible.  Mildly spicy chiles poblano, stuffed with picadillo and topped with richly creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, flaunt the brilliant green, white and red of the Mexican flag. 

    Manzana panochera y pera lechera
    The panochera apple, grown in the Mexican state of Puebla, and pera lechera (milky pear), also grown in the area, are two must-have ingredients for making chiles en nogada in Mexico.  If you live outside Mexico, a small crisp apple and a very crisp pear (Bosque or d'Anjou) would substitute.

    This festive dish is traditionally served on September 15 or 16 in honor of Mexico's Independence Day, though it is popular anytime in the late summer and fall. During August and September in the highlands of Mexico, particularly in Mexico City and Puebla, vendors wander tianguis (street markets) and other markets, selling the clean, white meats of nuez de castilla. It is important to use the freshest walnuts possible, as they produce such a creamy, rich sauce that it is worth the effort to buy them peeled or peel them oneself.  Yes, the recipe is time-consuming…but you and your guests will jump up and shout "VIVA!" when they've licked the platters clean. 

    Ingredients

    For the meat:  

    • 2 pounds beef brisket or other stew meat or 1 pound beef and 1 pound pork butt 
    • 1 small white onion, quartered 
    • 2 large cloves garlic 
    • about 1 Tbsp sea salt

     For the picadillo (filling):  

    • 4 Tbsp safflower or canola oil
    • the shredded meat
    • 1/3 cup chopped white onion
    • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
    • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • 1/8 tsp ground cloves
    • 3 heaping Tbsp raisins
    • 1 or 2 chiles serrano, finely minced
    • 4 Tbsp chopped fresh walnuts 
    • 4 Tbsp slivered blanched almonds
    • 2 Tbsp finely diced biznaga (candied cactus, optional)
    • 1 fresh pear, peeled and chopped
    • 1 apple, peeled and chopped
    • 4 ripe peaches, peeled and diced
    • 3 Tbsp Mexican pink pine nuts.  Substitute white if you aren't able to find pink.
    • 3 large, ripe tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
    • sea salt to taste

    Flaneur Chiles Poblanos Rojos Tehuaca?n 2016
    Fully mature chiles poblano, picked fresh in Tehuacán, Puebla.  Green chile poblano is normally used for chiles en nogada.

    For the chiles:

    –6 fresh chiles poblanos, roasted, peeled, slit open, and seeded, leaving the stem intact   

     For the nogada (walnut sauce):  

    • 1 cup fresh walnuts 
    • 6 ounces queso de cabra (goat cheese), queso doble crema or standard cream cheese (not fat free) at room temperature 
    • 1-1/2 cups crema mexicana or 1-1/4 cups sour cream thinned with milk 
    • about 1/2 tsp sea salt or to taste
    • 1 Tbsp sugar   
    • 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 cup dry sherry (optional)

    Pomegranate
    Remove the arils (seeds) from a pomegranate.  We who live in Mexico are fortunate to find pomegranate seeds ready to use, sold in plastic cups.

    For the garnish 

    –1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
    –1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds 

    Preparation:

    Cut the meat into large chunks, removing any excess fat. Place the meat into a large Dutch oven with the onion, garlic, and salt. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that collects on the surface. Lower the heat and allow the water to simmer about 45 minutes, until the meat is just tender. Take the pot off the stove and let the meat cool in the broth. Remove the pieces of meat and finely shred them. 

    Biznaga cristalizada
    Candied biznaga cactus.  Do try to find this ingredient in your local market.  There isn't an adequate substitute, so if you don't find it, leave it out.

    Warm the oil in a large, heavy skillet and sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat until they turn a pale gold. Stir in the shredded meat and cook for five minutes. Add the cinnamon, pepper, and cloves, then, stir in the raisins, the two tablespoons of chopped walnuts. Add the chopped pear, apple, biznaga, and mix well. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste, and continue cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture has evaporated. Stir often so that the mixture doesn't stick. Let cool, cover, and set aside. The picadillo may be made a day or two in advance.

    Chiles en Nogada
    Beautifully home-prepared chiles en nogada, as presented several years ago at a traditional food exhibition in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.

    Make a slit down the side of each chile, just long enough to remove the seeds and veins. Keep the stem end intact. Drain the chiles, cut side down, on paper towels until completely dry. Cover and set aside. The chiles may be prepared a day in advance. 

    At least three hours in advance, put the walnuts in a small pan of boiling water. Remove from the heat and let them sit for five minutes. Drain the nuts and, when cool, rub off as much of the dark skin as possible. into small pieces. Place the nuts, cream cheese, crema, and salt in a blender and purée thoroughly. Stir in the optional sugar, cinnamon, and sherry until thoroughly combined. Chill for several hours. 

    Preheat the oven to 250ºF. When ready to serve, reheat the meat filling and stuff the chiles until they are plump and just barely closed. Put the filled chiles, covered, to warm slightly in the oven. After they are thoroughly heated, place the chiles (cut side down) on a serving platter or on individual plates, cover with the chilled walnut sauce, and sprinkle with the chopped parsley and pomegranate seeds. 

    Azul Histo?rico Chile en Nogada
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Azul Histórico, Mexico City.

    Chile en Nogada PdeH Aug 13 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Pasillo de Humo, Mexico City.

    This dish may be served at room temperature, or it may be served chilled. It is rarely if ever served hot. 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • OAXACA: First Grand Meeting of Oaxaca’s Traditional Cooks :: Primer Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca

    Encuentro Oaxaca Poster 2017 1
    Oaxaca hosted its first-ever Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales on April 24-25, 2017.  The festivities included more than 50 traditional home cooks from Oaxaca's eight regions, plus two days of conferences and other activities.  Doña Martina Sánchez is the person shown on the poster; she's making a tlayuda, a very large, thin corn tortilla that will subsequently be topped with any number of ingredients. 

    Empanadas de don?a Martina Sa?nchez 1
    Indescribably delicious empanandas, prepared by doña Martina Sánchez at the Mexico City press conference prior to the Encuentro.

    Oaxaca Plaza de la Danza 2a Wide
    From 1:00PM until 9:00PM, the cocineras tradicionales (traditional cooks) sold plates and platters and bowls of both well- and little-known dishes to the hordes and throngs of avid attendees.  More than 10,000 people showed up over the course of two days.  The Encuentro was a tremendous success in every respect.

    Celia Floria?n Puebla July 2016
    Señora Celia Florián, traditional cook, restaurant owner (Las 15 Letras, Calle Abasolo 300, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca), and one of the principal organizers of the Primer Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca.  My dear friend Celia is a truly great woman, in every sense of the word.

    Oaxaca thrilled Mexico Cooks! with an invitation to an April 23-26 hosted press trip to Oaxaca, for the sole purpose of eating, drinking, photographing, and writing about the first Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales in that city.  The event took place during the celebration of the city's 485th anniversary of founding, and what a celebration it was!  The Encuentro, primarily organized by Señora Celia Florián and hosted by Oaxaca's city government and other organizations, the event included more than 50 traditional cooks who set up their cooking fires on the Plaza de la Danza, just in front of Oaxaca's beautiful Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.

    Oaxaca Los Rubios Daniel Cui IGER 1
    La Danza de los Rubios of Santiago Juxtlahuaca, Oaxaca, pounded the stage with its fiercely colorful, tremendously flashy rendition of this more than 100-year-old dance to open the Encuentro.  Normally danced during Carnaval, the bailable (dance) made a wonderful festival of the Encuentro.  Photo courtesy Daniel Cui, IGERS Mexico.

    Encuentro Oaxaca Pig Roasting 1
    Just one of a huge number of whole pigs, roasted over firewood at the Encuentro.  This one was almost ready to be served, together with puré de papa (mashed potato), all in the style of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, in far-southern Oaxaca.  

    Oaxaca Istmo Carne de Cerdo con Pure? de Papa Gaby Vargas
    My plate, filled with tender, juicy, wood-roasted, mouth-watering carne de cerdo (pork meat), Isthmus-style puré de papa (mashed potato), and delicious sauce. The cocinera tradicional istmeña who served the crowd wears the typical clothing of the Tehuana: a woman from the Isthmus: hand embroidered velveteen blouse coupled with a colorful skirt and typically white lacy underskirt, gold filigree jewelry, and a ribbon or flower wreath around the head.  Photo courtesy Gaby Vargas.

    Oaxaca Encuentro Mendoza Sisters
    From left to right: Rufina Mendoza Ruíz, Abigail Mendoza Ruíz, Mexico Cooks!, and Marcelina Mendoza Ruíz.  The Mendoza Ruíz sisters are arguably the best-known cocineras tradicionales in Oaxaca–and probably in all of Mexico.  Indigenous Zapotecas from Teotitlán del Valle, they operate Tlamanalli, their family restaurant.  Abigail Mendoza has literally traveled the world educating people about Mexican and Oaxacan food.  It's a privilege to be a friend of the loving Mendoza family.

    Oaxaca Tichindas en Caldo 1
    Tichindas en caldo de frijol: sweet-water mussels hand-gathered from their muddy flats along the coast of Oaxaca and prepared in a slightly spicy, slightly savory, slightly sweet sauce of smoothly-ground beans that knocked my socks off.  The mussels themselves, shells and all, were just over an inch long. From now on, when I think para chuparse los dedos (finger-lickin' good), this will be the dish in my mind.  I ate this bowl of mussels on the last day of the Encuentro; on the first day, a friend gave me the last tiny bit of a tamal with one of these mussels, still in the shell, wrapped in rich masa (corn dough). The next day, I went looking for those tamales, but they were completely sold out.  This bowl of tichinda soup was my consolation prize, but wow, a prize indeed.

    Tehuanas Primer Encuentro Oaxaca 25 abril 2017
    Three members of a fascinating and tender round table conference; the one of the topics was "food memories from your childhood".  The Tehuanas (women from the Istmus of Tehuantepec) are (left to right): Aurora de Toledo, owner of Restaurante Zandunga; Deyaniro Aquino Pineda, owner of Restaurante La Teca; and Ofelia Toledo Pineda, owner of Restaurante Yu Ne Nisa.  All three restaurants are located in the city of Oaxaca.

    [youtube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgQROnZ1SY0&w=560&h=315]
    Tejate, one of the iconic drinks of Oaxaca, is made from corn masa, Oaxacan chocolate, canela (Mexican cinnamon), the finely ground large brown seed of the mamey fruit, and flor de cacao (also known as rosita). After those ingredients are beaten by hand (see video), water and ice are added.

    Oaxaca Tlacolula Mamey Resized
    Mamey fruit for sale at a market in Oaxaca.  The mamey tastes very much like a baked sweet potato. The cut fruits–so beautiful!–have had their seeds removed to be sold separately.

    Ocotla?n Mercado Venta de Rosita y Semilla de Mamey MC
    At the top of the photo are long sticks of Mexican cinnamon.  In the woven tray is flor de cacao, or rosita. At the bottom are the large brown mamey seeds, ready to be ground to a fine powder for tejate.

    [youtube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFg7WqFmn3U&w=560&h=315]
    In this video, the vendor has added cold water and ice to the tejate mixture–it's almost ready to serve.  You can see that the surface of the tejate is foamy and thick, while the liquid she mixes from on high is thin, as it is supposed to be.  Tejate is a delicious and extremely refreshing cold chocolate drink.  When you're in Oaxaca, be sure to try it!

    Oaxaca Mercado Benito Jua?rez Tejate
    The finished product, tejate ready to be served.  We thoroughly enjoyed a jícara of this one at Oaxaca's Mercado Benito Juárez.

    For two full days and evenings, thousands of hungry people lined up at this event for Oaxacan regional food specialties that are rarely seen outside the comunidades (small indigenous towns) where they are made.  Oaxaca residents, Mexicans from states near and far, and foreign tourists devoured anything and everything that the cocineras tradicionales prepared; everything I tasted was a thrill.  The Encuentro was enlivened by constant live music and other entertainment, the city was in full fiesta mode for its anniversary, and everyone was excited and happy to be present.  

    As soon as the dates for the Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018 are announced, I'll post the news right here.  You really, really need to book your trip as soon as possible!  The event is a do-not-miss.  In addition, I'll be offering a guided tour of the festivities!

    Encuentro Oaxaca Comensales Marichuy
    Eager comensales (diners) pass along one of three sides of the Plaza de la Danza, where the cocineras tradicionales served food.  No admission fee at the Encuentro means that one can purchase more of the very inexpensive dishes that the traditional cooks prepare and serve. Photo courtesy Marichuy Garduño.

    Oaxaca Aguas Casilda Group
    Part of the invited Mexico City press group took a culinary tour of Oaxaca's Mercado Benito Juárez.  I'd been there many times before, and nevertheless learned a tremendous amount from our guide.  We're sitting for our portrait at Aguas Frescas Casilda, an institution in Oaxaca.

    Over the course of many years, Mexico Cooks! has been invited to countless culinary festivals in Mexico.  The Primer Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca will always stand out in my mind as extraordinary: as the first in Oaxaca and as being entirely exemplary of Oaxaca's marvelous hospitality.  Profound thanks to Celia Florián, to the Oaxaca city government, to the Oaxaca tourism department, to CANIRAC Oaxaca (Cámara Nacional de la Industria de Restaurantes y Alimentos Condimentados–Mexico's national restaurant association), to the cocineras tradicionales, and to all who made this marvelous event possible.  Trabajar en equipo siempre es mejor (it's always better to work as a team) has never been truer.  Three cheers and huge gratitude to all.

    Next week, Mexico Cooks! will feature some of the restaurants where we were spoiled rotten by Oaxaca's CANIRAC.  The truth is, we ate more in three days than is really conscionable.  Between the traditional food at the Encuentro and our meals at Oaxaca's legendary restaurants, we all but waddled our way through the city. 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Mexico’s Independence Celebration: A Month of Fiestas Patrias

    Fiestas-Patrias Star Media
    Street vendors hawk la bandera nacional (the Mexican flag) in dozens of forms for several weeks during August and right up to September 16, Mexico's Independence Day. In this photo, you see a vendor near the zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución) in Mexico City.  Photo courtesy Starmedia.

    Mexico's official struggle for freedom from Spanish colonization began sometime between midnight and dawn on September 16, 1810, when Father Miguel Hidalgo gave the Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores) from the parish bell tower in the town known today as Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato.  Mexico celebrates its day of Fiestas Patrias (Patriotic Holidays) on September 16 with parades of school children and military batallions, politicians proclaiming speeches, and general festivity. 

    Banderas
    Another flag vendor, this time in Morelia, Michoacán.  All photos copyright Mexico Cooks! unless otherwise noted.

    Hundreds of books have been written about Mexico's break from Spain, millions of words have been dedicated to exploring the lives of the daring men and women who knew, a bit more than 200 years ago, that the time had come for freedom.  You can read some of the history on the Internet.  Another excellent source for Mexican history is The Life and Times of Mexico, by Earl Shorris.  You'll find that book available to order through Amazon.com, on the left-hand side of this page.

    But the best-kept secret in Mexico is the Independence Day party.  No, the biggest deal is not on September 16th.  Held every year on the night of September 15, the Gran Noche Mexicana (the Great Mexican Night), the real celebration of the revolutionary events in 1810, is a combination of New Year's Eve, your birthday, and your country's independence festivities.  Wouldn't you really rather hear about the party?  I knew you would!

    Kiosko_adornado
    Jalisco town kiosko (bandstand) decorated for the Fiestas Patrias.

    For years I've attended the September 15 celebrations in a variety of towns and cities.  In Mexico City, the country's president leads hundreds of thousands of citizens in late-night celebrations in the zócalo, the enormous square surrounded by government buildings and the Metropolitan Cathedral.  Every Mexican town big enough to have a mayor holds a reenactment of the Grito de Dolores, Hidalgo's cry for independence.  The town square is decorated with flags, bunting, and ribbons.  Cohetes (sky rockets) flare and bang.  Sometime around eleven o'clock at night, the folks, assembled in the town plaza since nine or so, are restless for the celebration to begin.  The mayor's secretary peeks out from the doorway of the government offices, the folkloric dancers file off the stage in the plaza, the band tunes up for the Himno Nacional (the national anthem), the crowd waves its flags and hushes its jostling.  The mayor steps out onto the balcony of the government building or onto the stage built just outside the building's front door to lead the singing of the Himno's emotional verses. 

    Grito-independencia-zocalo-2015
    The bandera monumental and celebratory fireworks in front of Mexico's Palacio Nacional, the zócalo, Mexico City, September 15, 2015. Press courtesy photo.

    Dressed in his finest and backed up by a military or police guard, the mayor clears his throat and loudly begins an Independence Day proclamation.  He pulls a heavy rope to ring the Independence bell, then he waves a huge Mexican flag.  Back and forth, back and forth!  In every Mexican town, the proclamation ends with Hidalgo's 205-year-old exhortations: "Long live religion!  Long live Our Lady of Guadalupe! Long live the Americas and death to the corrupt government!  Viva México!  Qué viva!"

    Guadalupano
    Father Hidalgo's 1810 banner.  He carried this banner as his standard as a leader in the fight for Mexico's independence from Spain.

    The mayor and the crowd shout as one voice: "Viva México!  Qué viva!  Qué viva!"  The mayor grins and waves as the fireworks begin, bursting huge green, white, and red chrysanthemums over the heads of the attendees.

    Later there will be dancing and more music, and food, including traditional pozole, tostadas, mezcal, tequila and beer, and, in larger towns and cities, all-night revelry in the plaza, in private homes, and in hotels, restaurants, and events halls.

    A number of years ago my friend, música ranchera singer Lupita Jiménez from Guadalajara, invited me to a Gran Noche Mexicana where she was performing.  The event was scheduled to start at 9.30, but Mexican custom normally dictates late arrival.  By ten o'clock I was on my way to the party.  At the salón de eventos (events hall) the parking lot was already full, but a man was parking cars on the street just a block away.  As I left my car, he said, "Could you pay me now for watching your car?  It's 20 pesos.  I'll be leaving a little early, probably before the event is over." 

    "How long will you be here?" I asked, a bit anxious about leaving the car alone on this night of prodigious revelry.

    Lupita
    Lupita Jiménez in performance at a Gran Noche Mexicana in Guadalajara.

    "Till six."  My jaw dropped and I handed him the 20 pesos.  Six in the morning!  Surely we wouldn't party quite so long as that! 

    The sad truth is that I didn't.  I couldn't.  My stamina flagged at about 3:00 AM, after dinner had been served at 10:30, a city politician had proclaimed the Grito, the Himno Nacional had been sung, and big noisy fireworks had been set off on the indoor stage (I swear to you) of the salón de eventos.  Then the show started, a brief recapitulation in dance of Mexican history, starting with concheros (loincloth-clad Aztec dancers) whirling around a belching volcano, and ending with the glorious jarabe tapatía–the Guadalajara regional dance that most speakers of English know as the Mexican hat dance.

    After innumerable trios, duets, and solo singers, the show paused for intermission at close to two in the morning.  Several of my table-mates slipped away, but I thought I could make it to the end.  The first half of the Gran Noche Mexicana had been invigorating and exciting and I loved it.  During intermission, a wonderful Mexican comedian poked fun at politics, functionaries, and Mexican life in general.  We were all roaring with laughter.  When the comic left the stage, I realized that I was exhausted and needed to go home to bed.  Just as the performers stepped onto the stage to begin the next round of song, I sneaked away. 

    When I called Lupita the next afternoon to congratulate her on the success of the event, she asked if I'd stayed for the last few costume changes.  "Mija, I had to go home early.  I lasted till three, but then I just couldn't stay awake.  I'm so sorry I missed the end." 

    Lupita laughed.  "I'm glad you lasted that long, but next time you have to stay for the whole night!  You missed the best part!"

    Zcalo_df_2
    The Zócalo (main city plaza) in Mexico City, dressed up for the Fiestas Patrias.

    Viva México!  Qué viva!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours. 

     

  • Morelia en Boca en la Boca de Todos :: Everybody’s Talking about Morelia en Boca, Sixth Year!

    Due to an unexpected health issue, Mexico Cooks! is unable to attend the sixth edition of Morelia en Boca, taking place this weekend in Morelia, Michoacán.  Rather than miss the festivities altogether, I invite you this week and next week to a re-run of the very first Morelia en Boca, offered in 2011.

    Morelia en Boca logotipo
    Morelia en Boca 2011
    offered three full days and nights of gastronomic conferences, wine and food tasting, and marvelous dinners (with wine pairings) prepared by internationally-known chefs.  Whispers of the glories of this festival-to-come had circulated for an entire year, and Mexico Cooks! had eagerly awaited the event.

    Everyone's first question was, "Why a rabbit for the festival logo?" The rabbit, long linked with the rich culture of Michoacán, has several meanings.  First, it refers to the former town of San Juan Parangaricutiro, which was relocated to the former hacienda known as Los Conejos (the rabbits) when the erupting volcano Paricutín destroyed the original town in 1943.  Second, the logo refers to the ancient Purhépecha legend of the rabbit in the moon.  According to the legend, the mischievous rabbit devours the ripe produce in a farming family's fields.  The farmer then traps the rabbit to serve as a family dinner.  The smart rabbit tricks a coyote into freeing him from his cage.  The watching moon–considered to be the rabbit's mother–gives her son the gift of zigzagging and hopping in order to escape the angry, hungry, and desperate coyote.  Just as the rabbit is about to be trapped, the moon drops down a silver ladder that she has knit from spiderwebs.  The rabbit hops high and skips up the ladder, disappearing forever into the moon's embrace.  The coyote is left on the earth to howl his pain, his hunger, his fear, and his desperation, while the rabbit is plainly visible on the shining face of his mother, the moon.  Next time the moon is full, take a look and you'll see him for yourself, still cuddled in the moon's embrace.  The rabbit in the moon, ancient emblem of Michoacán and Mexico, is visible to the entire world.

    Mise en Place con Jícaritas
    Mise en place (all previously prepared ingredients in place) for a cooking demonstration, one of many presented at this recent and enormously successful international culinary event .  The pre-measured ingredients that you see here are displayed in tiny dried jícaras (gourds).

    The festival paired renowned chefs from as far south as Oaxaca and Chiapas with others from as far north as New York City.  Food writers and photographers from both Mexico and the United States descended en masse on Morelia for the event.  The most common and excited exclamation among wine and culinary participants at the festival–in both Spanish and English–was, "Oh my god, we're friends on Facebook and finally we get to meet in person!

    Pilar, Lucero, Iliana Presentación
    From left, Oaxaca's chef Pilar Cabrera of Restaurante La Olla, Morelia's favorite daughter chef Lucero Soto Arriaga (Restaurante LU, Morelia), and chef Iliana de la Vega, of the extraordinary Austin, Texas restaurant El Naranjo (formerly based in Oaxaca).  The three laughing chefs were mid-presentation at Morelia en Boca.

    Grupo Cocina al Natural
    The group from Cocina al Natural, including Celia Marín, Bertha Herrera, Martha Ponce, Sonia Ortiz, and Ana Luisa Suárez of Vinos Wagner, a sponsor of the website.  Cocina al Natural launched its website with a joy-filled presentation that included video, delightful talk, and chilled white wines from from Vinos Wagner.

    Morelia en Boca offered something for everyone with an interest in either food or wine or both.  Daily conferences included panels speaking on topics ranging from the importance and influence of the Culinary Institute of America (Chefs Iliana de la Vega and Roberto Santíbañez) to the launch of the new and wonderful interactive–and very user-friendly–website Cocina al Natural (Celia Marín and Sonia Ortiz).  Equally diverse demonstrations included presentations by chefs Enrique Olvera (Restaurante Pujol, Mexico City), Pablo San Román (Restaurante DO, Mexico City) and the new generation of chefs represented by Rodolfo Castellaños (Restaurante Huaje, Oaxaca) and Marta Zepeda (Restaurante Tierra y Cielo, San Cristóbal de las Casas), and an enormous chocolate sculpture–of our logo rabbit–by premier Mexican chocolate maker and chef José Ramón Castillo.  More than a dozen separate catas de vino (wine tastings) showed off wineries from Mexico, France, Spain, and the United States.  The Belgian brewer Gouden Carolus beamed over its featured offerings of summery wheat beer and truly delicious fruit flavored beers.

    Riviera Nayarit con Betty Vázquez
    Part of the team from Riviera Nayarit, including the outstanding west coast chefs (left to right) Gerardo Sandoval Fernández, Betty Vázquez, and Marco Valdivia.  The Riviera Nayarit stand at Villa Gourmet offered portions of aguachile de camarón (raw shrimp marinated in a sometimes-fiery sauce of jugo de limón and chile serrano), along with a delicious Nayarit-style cebiche topped with spicy Salsa Huichol, one of the sponsors of Riviera Nayarit's visit to Morelia en Boca.

    Mexico Cooks! on the Job courtesy Adriana Pérez de Legaspi
    Mexico Cooks! on the job.  Photo courtesy Adriana Pérez de Legaspi.

    Food and wine tastings at Morelia en Boca took place at the Palacio Clavijero, a 17th Century Jesuit school.  In the building's second patio, more than 30 charming wooden providers' booths surrounded a multitude of comfortable tables and chairs.  The cost of festival tickets included good-sized tastes (really, as much as you wanted) of both food and drink, including treats from Oaxaca, Chiapas, Nayarit, and Michoacán, Belgian beer, and wines from several countries.

    Museo del Dulce 1 Zarza con Cotija
    Drop-dead delicious bite-size dark chocolate cups filled with jam handmade from Michoacán-grown blackberries and topped with artisan-made queso Cotija, also from Michoacán.  These little marvels (and a big selection of others) were available at the Morelia Museo del Dulce stand at Villa Gourmet.

    Next week, come back for Part Two of the festivities at Morelia en Boca.  Mexico Cooks! will feature the Morelia en Boca dinners prepared by chefs Roberto Santibáñez of Fonda in New York City, Lucero Soto Arriaga of Morelia's Restaurante LU, Margarita Carrillo de Salinas of Restaurante Don Emiliano in Cabo San José, Baja California Sur, and Rodolfo Castellanos of Restaurante Huaje, Oaxaca.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Restaurante Nicos: Vintage Traditions, New Acclaim

    This article about Mexico City's ever-popular Restaurante Nicos bears repeating today for an important announcement.  Just a few weeks ago, our much-loved Nicos was named to the list of 50 Best Restaurants in Latin America, presented by RESTAURANT, a British specialty magazine. Long a great cause for pride in Mexico City, thanks to this award Nicos is now even better known throughout the world.

    Tamales Gerardo Vazquez Lugo
    Chef Gerardo Vázquez Lugo, consummately professional executive chef at Restaurante Nicos in Mexico City.  

    Nicos Bread Service
    Freshly baked, still-warm bolillo (crusty white bread roll) served from a dried guaje (gourd) and accompanied by three salsas and a wee dish of sea salt.

    Mexico City's gourmands–the many of us who are heartily fond of good food and drink–often travel substantially north of the Centro Histórico (downtown) to have a marvelous meal.  The magnet that pulls us to Delegación Azcapotzalco?  Restaurante Nicos, a Mexico City institution since 1957.  Started by don Raimundo Vázques and his wife María Elena Lugo Zermeño (chef Gerardo's parents) and run by the Vázquez Lugo family for the last 58 years, the restaurant offers a warmly charming atmosphere, excellent service, and simply fantastic food.

    Nicos Guacamole Ingredientes
    It always makes me happy to see that Nicos makes its guacamole exactly the way I've been doing it at home for 30 years.  You can see that the avocado is left in silky chunks; it's not mashed.  Add a little olive oil, some sea salt, small-diced white onion, small-diced tomato, chopped cilantro, and as much minced chile serrano as your palate can handle.  No limón (Key lime) is necessary. 

    Nicos Guacamole Finished
    Prepared at tableside with perfectly ripe, perfectly fresh ingredients, this guacamole brims over in its molcajete (volcanic stone mortar) and is a plentiful appetizer for four diners.  It's served with freshly-fried salty totopos (tortilla chips).

    This oasis of great eating has never pretended to be more than a family restaurant serving home-style Mexican cooking.  Traditional recipes prepared and served in the spirit of Slow Food are the basis of Nicos' kitchen, and attentive, non-obtrusive, closely-supervised staff continue to ensure that the customer is king.  Really, what more can we want? 

    Nicos Dobladita de Tinga
    Another appetizer, this time doblada de tinga (delectable stewed, spiced, and shredded chicken stuffed into a folded, hot-off-the-comal (griddle) tortilla).  These dobladas are offered three to an order, but our server generously provided our table of four diners with an extra doblada.

    A Mexican food enthusiast and restaurant owner visiting from Oregon recently invited me and some other friends to accompany him for comida (main meal of Mexico's day) at Nicos.  An eager sí, cómo no!, and Mexico Cooks! joined this group of friends at table.  Faced with the truly difficult choices among Nicos' marvelous appetizers, soups, salads, and main dishes, we of course ordered far too much food, and of course we polished it all off with delight.

    Nicos Trancas
    Our third entrada (appetizer) was this beautiful plate of trancastaquitos (small rolled and fried tacos) stuffed with chicken and served with farm-fresh crema de mesa (Mexican table cream, similar to creme fraiche), grated queso fresco (soft white cheese), lettuce, and tomato–plus a small bowl of guacamole.

    Nicos Sopa de Nata
    We ordered two sopas to share.  This is what Mexico knows as a sopa seca (dry soup).  In this case, it's the very special sopa seca de natas; a 19th century recipe from the convent of the Capuchinas (Capuchin nuns) in Guadalajara.  It's made of crepes, layered with shredded chicken and a sauce made of nata (unpasteurized cream from raw milk)tomatoes, and finely sliced chile poblano.  Once the ingredients are layered in a baking dish, they're baked for about an hour and a half.

    Nicos Sopa de Frijol Plate
    A soup plate arrives at table already piled with accompaniments for sopa de frijoles, the sopa aguada (liquid soup) we ordered.  The shallow bowl holds strips of thinly sliced, fried tortillas, queso Pijijiapan (a white crumbly cheese from the state of Chiapas), lightly fried chile de árbol, and crema de rancho (farm-style table cream).  Note the name Pijijiapan: it's the only place name in Mexico with five dotted letters in a row!  You can always count on Mexico Cooks! for this sort of fascinating trivia.

    Nicos Sopa de Frijol
    Absolutely delicious sopa de frijoles (bean soup), based on an ayocote (white runner bean) broth flavored with fresh epazote (wormweed) is then ladled atop the soup accompaniments, and our waiter added a few drops of organic olive oil. 

    Nicos Adobo de Carne de Cerdo
    The first of our three platos fuertes (main dishes) was adobo de antaño con carne de cerdo con tamal de ejote tierno (pork cooked in an old-fashioned smooth, spicy adobo (sauce) and served with a fresh-corn tamal.

    Nicos Frijolitos Negros
    A tiny pot of frijoles negros (black beans), for just a spoonful each to go with our main dishes.

    Nicos Frijolitos Charros
    And another tiny pot of frijoles charros (cowboy-style beans with bacon, onion, and tomato).  We couldn't have just one pot of beans, right?

    Nicos Conejo en Chile Piquín
    Our second main dish: conejo al chile piquín (tender rabbit in a chile piquín sauce), served with ensalada de nopalitos (cactus paddle salad).  Next time I am at Nicos, I'll order this dish just for myself.  It was unquestionably my favorite–fall-off-the-bone tender rabbit cooked in a supremely delicious sauce.  Just try and get me to give you a bite!

    Nicos Pollo en Pulque
    This dish of pollo en hoja de aguacate con pulque (boneless chicken with avocado leaf, orange juice, butter, and pulque) was, for me, a close runner-up to the rabbit.  Beautifully presented and carrying the subtle flavor of anise-y avocado leaf and earthy pulque, the recipe was created by one of Mexico's foremost chefs and my friend, Mexico's great lady of the kitchen, Alicia Gironella d'Angeli.

    Can you tell that we were simply too stuffed to order dessert?  We waddled out of the restaurant into the first downpour of Mexico City's 2013 rainy season, happy to have spent several hours enjoying one another's company and a superb meal.  Next time you're in Mexico City, Restaurante Nicos will be a truly memorable experience for you.

    Restaurante Nicos
    Av. Cuitláhuac 3102, corner of Clavería
    Col. Clavería
    Del. Azcapotzalco
    Mexico City 02080
    Tel: 55.5396.7090 (reservations suggested for hours of comida, 2.30-4:00PM)
    Hours: Monday through Friday 7.30AM to 7:30PM

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.