Author: typepadtowordpress

  • Healing the Body, Healing the Soul in Concepción de Buenos Aires, Jalisco

    It occurred to me earlier this week to re-publish this Mexico Cooks! article, originally published in 2007, when I read an article in the New York Times about a beautifully restored house in Concepción de Buenos Aires.  I loved being in the town, and I remembered my day there with much fondness as I read the newspaper article.  I only wish I had known all those years ago about the lovely home. 

    Road
    The road to Concepción de Buenos Aires.

    The drive deep into the mountains was long, more than two hours from my home in Guadalajara. Many kilometers of the twisting road were rough, pocked with deep potholes. I got stuck behind a slow-moving slat-side truck full to the brim with plastic bags of raw chicken, huge crates of vegetables and fruits, bags of bread and other foods. I was in a hurry to reach Concepción de Buenos Aires, a tiny town well off the beaten tourist path, where I was to meet Sr. Cura Manuel Cárdenas Contreras, the pastor of la Parroquia de la Inmaculada Concepción—the parish of the Immaculate Conception. I'd heard a little about him and his healing work from an acquaintance, but I really couldn't imagine what lay in store for me.

    When I arrived, I discovered that it was tianguis (street market) day in Concepción de Buenos Aires. The streets around the town square were closed, blocked by vendors' booths. Rock music blared and the dusty cobblestones were crowded with men in jeans and cowboy hats, women in red-checkered aprons buying vegetables for the day's comida (dinner), and little children tugging at their older siblings' hands as they pleaded for a candy or toy. I squeezed into a parking space and navigated through booths of bolis (a frozen treat), flower arrangements, and DVDs to get to the parish steps.

    I made my way through the church to its inner courtyard, where there was a great deal of bustle. A big truck—the very loaded-down truck I had followed along the road to town—was being emptied. One of the women helping with the truck explained to me that all of its contents had been donated for the poor of the town. The food was being divided into bags for individual families. "We do this every week," she beamed. She led me to the entrance to the parish office. "He's in there, just go on in," she encouraged me.

    Health1church
    La Inmaculada

    Religious pamphlets, candles, and pictures crowded sales shelves in the dim anteroom. What I assumed to be the secretary's desk was unoccupied. I waited a moment for a prior visitor to come out of the priest's office. When the visitor left, a gravelly voice welcomed me. "Come in, come in."

    Padre Manuel rose to greet me and we chatted for a bit. A steady stream of townspeople arrived to schedule Mass intentions. "I'll close the office at 12:30," he said, "and we'll go over to the house to talk further. We can have some privacy there."

    Just then a tiny elderly woman wrapped up in a shawl came into the office. She was looking for the church secretary, who was indeed taking the day off. Padre Manuel said, "What do you need?"

    She said, "I'm looking for a hand."

    Father Manuel held up one of his, fingers spread apart. "Here's one."

    "Ay, padre, not yours, no no no. It's that I fell and broke my hand, and I promised the Virgin if it got well I'd hang up a hand to say thank you." She wanted to purchase a small milagro, a metal token that she'd hang near an image of the Virgin as a way to say thank you for her healing.

    Close
    Detail above the altar of La Inmaculada.

    He asked to see her hand, which from where I was sitting looked bruised and still a bit swollen. He started rubbing her hand a little and she winced. He said, "You have sugar, don't you?"

    "Sí, padre." She nodded her admission of diabetes.

    "And I can tell that your hand still hurts. Who were you fighting with?"

    "Ay, padre, I fell down!" She giggled. "I guess I was fighting with the ground. The doctor just took the cast off and yes, it still hurts."

    He prodded at her hand with his big fingers and then yanked her little finger. Then he prodded around her thumb and yanked a bit. "Move your hand." She tentatively moved her fingers. "No, really move it, bend it, make a fist, wiggle your fingers."

    She did, and a slow beautiful grin spread across her face. "It doesn't hurt!" He grinned and nodded.

    Milagros_2
    Milagros mexicanos, including human body parts, animals, and other symbols.

    Then he said, "How's your hearing?"

    "Ay, padre, since my husband died three months ago I can't hear, my ears are stopped up." He put an index finger into each of her ears and snapped them out again in an abrupt motion. Then he tapped one of his index fingers, hard, on the crown of her head. And again. Then he whispered, "What is your name?" No reaction. A little louder. No reaction. And again, this time very loud.

    "Consuelo Álvarez Martínez, padre."

    He repeated his ministrations, and from behind her, whispered very softly in her ear again. "What is your name?" She answered instantly.

    Then he said, "You have trouble with your blood pressure, right?" 

    "Sí, padre." He put his hand high on the bony part of her chest and pressed hard. Then he asked her if she got dizzy when she bent over.

    "No, padre, but after I bend over and then stand up, I get dizzy."

    He said, "Try it."

    She did. "A little, padre."

    He pressed on the bony part of her chest. "Again."

    "Ay padre, still a little."

    "Now try." And she said she was fine, no dizziness.

    It was all very matter of fact. There were three other people in the room, including me. She went happily on her way, saying she'd be back the next day to pay her debt to the Virgin.

    In just a few minutes, Padre Manuel finished writing up the Mass intentions and ushered me through the church, down the sacristy steps, and into the spacious office where he receives people who are looking for his help. Settled at his desk, he began talking about his life.

    "I was born in 1931 in Valle Florido, a rancho that's part of the municipality of Concepción de Buenos Aires, to Manuel Cárdenas García and Petra Contreras Cárdenas. I never knew my father. He was killed by eight men just six months after he married my mother. She never remarried, so I was an only child. When I was seven years old, I started primary school out in the country.

    "By the time I was thirteen, I had started thinking about what I wanted to be when I grew up. In those days, there were only a few options. The diocesan seminarians from Guadalajara came out to the rancho on vacation in August that year, and I began to be interested in knowing more about God. I liked the catechism and I decided to go ahead and enter the junior seminary.

    "For the first two years, I studied in Tlaquepaque to finish school. Then I entered Señor San José Diocesan Seminary in Guadalajara. After I studied three years of theology in the diocesan seminary in Mérida, I finished my theology studies in Guadalajara and then was sent to the state of Tabasco. I was ordained a priest in Tabasco on July 9, 1961, by Archbishop Fernando Ruíz Solórzano."

    Padre Manuel paused and tapped a finger on his desk. "How long were you in Tabasco, Padre?" I asked.

    "Sixteen years, all told. Then at the request of the bishop of Ciudad Guzmán, I came back to the archdiocese of Jalisco."

    I was puzzled. "How is the archdiocese of Jalisco divided, Padre? I didn't know there were other diocesan divisions."

    He smiled. "Yes, we have the archdiocese, with its base in Guadalajara. Then we have three other diocesan seats within the archdiocese: Ciudad Guzmán, San Juan de los Lagos, and Autlán." He ticked the names off on his fingers. "So I was called to the diocese of Ciudad Guzmán and came back to Concepción de Buenos Aires on April 30, 1973. Then in May, I was called to Tuxpan to help with the fiestas of Nuestro Señor del Perdón. On June 13, 1973, I was named pastor at the parish of Teocuitatlán de Corona, in Jalisco.

    "I was there for nearly ten years, and then I was asked to be pastor at another parish in Jalisco.

    "Finally, in 1994, I was named pastor here at La Inmaculada, in my home town of Concepción de Buenos Aires. And I've been here ever since, eleven years now." He shook his head incredulously at the rapid passage of time.

    Padre_manuel
    El Señor Cura Manuel Cárdenas Contreras

    "Padre Manuel, many people have told me about your remarkable ability to bring about miraculous cures. Tell me something about how that started."

    He leaned forward and looked intensely at me. "I don't cure. God cures. I'm only the means. As a human being, I don't really understand what happens.

    "More than twenty years ago, I suffered a lot from terrible back pain that affected my right leg. For eleven months, the pain was intense, day and night. I went to many different doctors, different specialists, as I looked for a cure, but the pain wouldn't leave me and the doctors weren't able to cure me. I was desperate.

    "In one of God's mysteries that we as human beings can't understand, I was sent to a doctor, a specialist, in Guadalajara. He was a trained medical specialist, but he also used alternative healing methods. He utilized an alternative energy, he did some things that I can't explain even now. In twenty minutes the pain was gone and I could stand up straight. I went back twice more, and I was cured." Padre Manuel held out his hand and drew in his breath.

    "The doctor told me that I also had the gift of healing. I told him no, no I didn't. He said yes, yes I did, and that he would teach me how to use the gift. I refused, over and over again.

    "Then one day the doctor said to me, 'So, you wanted to be healed, but you don't want to be an instrument of healing? You wanted to receive, but you don't want to give back?' That stopped me in my tracks. How could I continue to refuse?"

    I felt a chill run through my body as I listened to Padre Manuel tell his story. "Please go on," I encouraged him.

    "The doctor asked me to come back four times a week, four hours a day, for four months. He said in that length of time he could teach me to use the power for healing that he felt in me. He taught me about the positive energy that comes from women, the negative energy that comes from men, and how they complement one another, the yin and the yang. He taught me about chakras and auras, he showed me how to use ordinary scissors to effect healing.

    "I've talked to thousands of people since then, from all social classes. People with health problems come here from everywhere, eager to be healed. Now I'm only able to see people on Fridays and Saturdays. Working in this way is extremely draining, very tiring.

    "Recently a family brought one of their daughters to me, all the way from Texas. When she came, she was walking with crutches, with great difficulty. The girl had just had an operation that cost $40,000 USD, an operation that the doctors told the family would allow her to walk again.  The operation was a failure." Padre Manuel pointed to my left. "Look, those are her crutches. When she left here, she could walk as well as you can."

    I felt the sharp sting of tears in my eyes. "A friend of mine came to you a few years ago, with terrible back pain. Maybe you remember him—Eufemio García?" Padre Manuel nodded.

    I reminisced about his story. "Eufemio had rescued an enormous old crippled dog that had to be bathed frequently to keep her from smelling bad. He used to strip down and hose her off in his patio so he wouldn't make such a mess in his house. One evening he bathed her, let her in the house onto the tile floors, and she slipped and couldn't get up. Eufemio tried to lift her and he slipped, doing the splits on the tiles. Not only had he pulled his muscles, but he developed a bad back injury that prevented him from taking anything but baby steps. He couldn't walk up a flight of stairs and he couldn't step up onto the high curbs we have here.  Some other friends brought Eufemio up to Concepción de Buenos Aires to see you."

    Padre Manuel took up the thread of the story. "You know, I cure using scissors. Of course the scissors never touch the person, but they draw energy and cut pain and—well, we don't know exactly how it works, but it does. If I remember your friend, he's a big man, right?"

    "Yes, Padre, he's well over six feet tall. Not as tall as you are, but tall."

    Padre Manuel nodded. "I would have had him stand in front of me while I passed the scissors over his head, his neck, and down his back. It doesn't sound so impressive or important, but what did he tell you happened to him?"

    "He told me that he could have sworn you pressed the scissors against his body as you worked with him. He said he felt their pressure, but one of his friends who was here that day insists that the scissors never touched him. He felt them move over his body in just the way that you described."

    The priest nodded again. "She's right, the scissors never touched him. What else did he tell you?"

    I thought for a moment. "He said that the pain lessened immediately. He said you told him to bend and touch his toes. He could do it, and there was no pain. Then you asked him to do some knee bends, and again there was no problem. He said he could take normal steps right away, and in about ten minutes he was completely back to normal. He told me he took some teas that you'd prescribed to supplement the healing. He said his pain never came back and he's had no problem with his back since then."

    Once again Padre Manuel nodded. "That's excellent, I'm so glad to hear it. Tell your friend to treasure his health.

    Road_to_concepcion
    Blue agave–tequila–fields near Concepción de Buenos Aires

    "You know, a Japanese woman, a chemist in Tapachula, brought her daughter to me because she couldn't raise her arms or use them. Now that she has been here, she can. In Spanish, we have a dicho (saying): Querer sanar es media salud (to want to be healed is half of health). I can't explain the mysteries of God in curing people of their problems, but I know it is God who cures. What I do is work with God's energy and the energy of the person who has the illness. That woman you saw in my office earlier today? With God's help, her problems will be healed.

    "Just tell people that it is God who heals, it's not me." Padre Manuel clasped my hands and walked me to the door of the church. "Remember, I'm the instrument." He bent down and hugged me. "Vaya con Dios."

    Here's a link to the beautiful New York Times article.  Architect's Home in Concepción de Buenos Aires  Enjoy!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Pan Dulce (Sweet Bread) for Breakfast, Pan Dulce for Supper

    Pan_con_cafe
    Steaming hot café con leche (expresso coffee mixed with hot milk), served with a basket of Mexico's pan dulce (sweet bread).  I took this photo many, many years ago–so long ago I don't remember when–in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán at Restaurante Don Rafa, when don Rafa was still living and had served me and my companion cafe con leche and a basket of pan dulce to start our breakfast. I still miss him, and may he rest in peace. 

    In early 2000, when my mother visited me here in Mexico, one of her deepest wishes was to visit a Mexican bakery. For more than 40 years, Mother baked every crumb of bread that she and her guests consumed: white, rye, whole wheat, pumpernickel, sourdough, French baguette, and esoteric international loaves that she just had to try.  Mother wanted to see how bread baking was done in Mexico.  She even arrived with her baking apron, hoping to push her hands deep into some yeasty Mexican dough.

    In those years, there was a tiny wholesale bakery in a garage just around the block from my house.  The owner, don Pedro, the master baker, and I had become good friends.  Shortly after Mom's arrival, I took her to meet him and his helpers. For two hours that afternoon, don Pedro and my mother swapped bread stories—conversation about oven temperatures, yeast, flour densities, protein content, and tales of experiments, successes and failures. My mother was amazed that don Pedro used a big clay oven with no temperature gauge.  He tested the temperature by sticking his hand into the oven, and he just knew from experience when it was right.

    Don Pedro spoke no English and my mother spoke no Spanish, but I interpreted between them and they discovered that they were soul mates. The day before Mother was to leave for home, I took her to say goodbye to don Pedro. They both cried and insisted that pictures be taken before they exchanged farewell hugs. Such is the bond of bread.

    Panes_en_bulto
    Bread fresh from the oven: the evocative aroma brings back timeworn memories of Mom's kitchen, filled with the yeasty perfume of twice-raised, golden-crusted hot bread. Here in Mexico, that redolent scent wafts through the air from bakeries scattered like hidden treasures through many neighborhoods. At certain hours of the early morning and mid-to-late afternoon, barrio (neighborhood) ovens disgorge mountains of pan dulce (sweet bread) destined for tiny corner mom-n-pop stores or for sale to individuals.

    For a few pesos, an early desayuno (breakfast) of pan dulce served with milk, juice, hot chocolate, or coffee gets Mexico up and off to work or school.  For a few pesos in the evening, the same sort of late supper rocks Mexico to sleep.

    In the history of the world, bread has its own record and development. The making of wheat bread has evolved with the progress of world civilization. Particularly in gastronomic Mexico, bread has deep roots in the evolution of the República. The Spanish brought wheat to Nueva España to make communion hosts for the Catholic churches they established here, and to prepare the white bread to which they were accustomed.   Soon followed the flavors and recipes of all Europe, arriving with the Spanish to the New World. The 1860s era of Hapsburg Emperor Maximilian and his French wife, Charlotte, imposed a giddy 19th century French influence on our more rustic breads—with the advent of puff pastries, whipped cream fillings, and sticky glazes, the already extensive assortment of Mexican breads expanded even more.

    Conchas
    Tasty sugar-swirled conchas (shells) are ubiquitous throughout Mexico.  Take a good look at the curved form of the top of the concha and then look at the photo below.

    Concha Mold 1
    This is the baker's mold that makes the curved lines in the sugar topping.  Gently pressed into the sugar, it leaves its design.  I purchased two of these as a gift to my Mother; they hung in her kitchen until she passed away.  When my sister and I cleaned out her home, I brought them back to Mexico as a memory of her; since then, they have hung in my own kitchen.

    During the Mexican Revolution, soldiers from every region of Mexico came to know the foods of states far from their homes. When they returned to their own areas after the fighting, they took the recipes and flavors of other regions home with them. The south of Mexico incorporated northern bread recipes into its repertoire, the west took from the east, the north from the south.

    Today, most panaderías (bakeries) in Mexico prepare similar assortments of pan dulce, along with a sampling of their own regional specialties.

    Puerquitos
    Puerquitos (also called marranitos, little pigs, on the right) taste very much like gingerbread.

    It's been said that Mexico, of all the countries in the world, has the broadest and most delicious selection of breads. As a result of the mixture of cultures and regional flavors, today in Mexico you will find more than 2000 varieties of breads, and all will tempt your palate.

    Pan dulce is just one variety, but there are hundreds upon hundreds of different sub-varieties. The great mosaic of Mexican bread making, inventiveness, and creativity is such that every variety of pan dulce has a name, usually associated with its appearance. That's why you'll see names of animals, objects, and even people gracing the breads on bakery shelves. Puerquitos or marranitos (little pigs), moños o corbatas (bowties or neckties), ojo de buey (ox eye), canastas (baskets), conchas (shells), cuernitos (little horns), chinos (Chinese), polvorones (shortbread), hojaldre (puff paste), empanadas (turnovers), and espejos (mirrors): all are names of specific and very different sweet breads. 

    Nino_envuelto
    My all-time favorite name for a pan dulce is niño envuelto (it means "wrapped-up baby" and it looks for all the world like a slice of jellyroll).

    If you've never visited a Mexican bakery–a bakery where the breads are baked right on the premises–you have a real treat in store.  One of my favorite bakeries is owned by the Rojas Vargas family in Ajijic, Jalisco.  When the bolillos (crusty white rolls) come of the of the oven in the early mornings, and again when the roles (cinnamon rolls) are ready at about 12:30PM, you'll find lines of locals waiting to carry home a bag of hot, fresh goodies.  The Rojas family bakery used to be called "the secret bakery", because its only identifying sign was a tiny wood rectangle painted with the word "PAN", hanging from a nail on a house at the entrance to a dead-end alley–well, that and the incredible fragrance of baking bread, wafting down the street to lure you in.

    Hermanos Rojas Ajijic
    Meet the Rojas brothers, longtime bakers in Ajijic.  In the center of the photo is José Luis Rojas Vargas, who passed away in November 2020.  Way back when, the Rojas brothers ran the bakery and also had a trio called "Los Flamingos".  The old-time boleros they sang were as delicious as their bread.

    Panaderi?a Rojas Rollos de Canela
    The incredibly delicious cinnamon rolls made by the Rojas brothers.

    At the Rojas bakery, the bakers will help you select the breads you want. There are just a few bakers' shelves at Rojas, and the selection of items is usually small. Most of the breads are delivered to shops and stores shortly after they're taken from the ovens. Larger Mexican bakeries can be a little intimidating when you first push that front door open and enter a warm, fragrant world of unfamiliar sights and smells.

    Biscoches
    Unsweetened biscochos are very similar to biscuits.  Lately, most of these are being prepared with sugar as an ingredient.  I prefer them without, and I'm sorry to report that can't find those now.

    Coatepec Panaderi?a Resobada
    Panadería El Resobado in Coatepec, Veracruz, has been baking bread for over 130 years.  Truly, 130 years!  Two friends and I were there, at the recommendation of another friend, about three years ago.  We took our tongs and trays and gathered up bags and bags full of pan dulce, more sweet bread than we could have eaten in a week!  

    Coatepec Panaderi?a Resobada 6
    These are just the conchas at Panadería El Resobado–and just some of them, not all.  The multi-level shelves stretched across two long rooms.

    Baker Kitties Ladder Pamela 2
    Two of us sneaked into the back room at El Resobado–we thought we had heard a 'meow', and sure enough!   Cats!  These were only two of the several kitties who live in the back, near the ovens.

    Another recent bakery excursion was to Panadería Pan Bueno, located at Avenida Vallarta #5295 in Guadalajara. The owner, Sr. Roberto Cárdenas González, graciously allowed me to take photographs with the assistance of his employee, Edith Hernández González.

    Pan_bueno_entrada
    When you go inside Pan Bueno, take a minute to look around first to orient yourself. Right there by the door are the big metal trays and the tongs you need to gather up the breads you want to buy. With tray and tongs in hand, it's good to take a tour of the racks of pan dulce so you  can decide what you want.

    Mexican Wedding Cookies
    Polvorones de Nuez are an old standard Mexican recipe that many of you in English-speaking countries know as Mexican Wedding Cookies. They're easy to make and are absolutely melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Somehow they always manage to disappear first from any tray of assorted homemade cookies.  Photo courtesy tucson.com.  

    Polvorones de Nuez
    Mexican Wedding Cookies

    Preheat oven to 275ºF 

    Ingredients
    1 1/2 cups (3/4 pound) butter (room temperature)
    3/4 pound powdered sugar
    1 egg yolk
    1 teaspoon vanilla
    1/2 cup finely chopped almonds or pecans–or walnuts, or macadamia nuts
    3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

    Beat the butter until it is light and fluffy. Then beat in 2 tablespoons of the powdered sugar, the egg yolk, vanilla, and your choice of nuts. Gradually add the flour, beating after each addition to blend thoroughly. Pinch off pieces of dough the size of large walnuts and roll between your palms into round balls. Place the dough balls 1 1/2 inches apart on ungreased baking sheets. Flatten each ball very slightly.

    Bake in a 275 degree oven until very lightly browned (about 45 minutes). Remove from the oven and place the baking sheets on wire racks.  Allow to cool on the baking sheets until lukewarm.

    Sift half the remaining powdered sugar onto a large sheet of waxed paper. Roll each cookie gently but firmly in the sugar. Place cookies on wire racks over wax paper. Allow the cookies to cool completely and again dust generously with more powdered sugar.

    If you make these cookies ahead of need, store them in airtight containers, layered between sheets of waxed paper, for up to three days.

    Makes approximately three dozen cookies.

    Edith
    This is Edith, who walked with me to make the rounds of the bakery, I asked her if she knew the origin of any of the names for pan dulce. With a charming smile, she admitted that they were just traditional inventos—made up titles. When I asked her if she ever got tired of eating pan dulce, she shook her head emphatically. "Oh no, señora, we always love the pan"

    You will always love the pan as well. And now, if you'll excuse me, a slice of niño envuelto is calling to me from my kitchen. How could I have resisted buying a pan dulce or two as I made the bakery tour? All right, it was four—but who's counting?  

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Mezcal Uasïsï, Michoacán’s Special Gift from Mayahuel, the Goddess of Mezcal

    Updated information about Mezcal Uasïsï :: Where to purchase this top-of-the-line mezcal in Mexico!

    Mezcal Cupreata 3
    Close to the northern edge of the Tierra Caliente, outside Etúcuaro, Michoacán, there's a well-hidden vinata (mezcal-making setup)–it's just beyond this field of cupreata maguey.  To get there, you need to go with someone who knows how to find it.  The mezcal producer, Ignacio Pérez Scott, is the fourth generation of his family to dedicate himself to production of the liquor.  He produces traditional mezcal which he then sells to select bottlers for branding.  We're visiting the vinata with Maira Malo Hernández, owner of the mezcal brand Uasïsï (wah-SHEE-shee), and her daughters, Viridiana and Mayra Méndez Malo.  Sra. Malo's daughters and her sons, Juan, Carlos, and Jorge Méndez Malo are also part of the Uasïsï team.

    Mezcal Don Nacho con Maira
    In the shade of the vinata, mezcal producer Ignacio Pérez Scott shares an affectionate moment with his long-time friend, Maira Malo Hernández.

    [youtube=://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gprCMwmaKKc&w=640&h=360]
    Uasïsï, the name Sra. Malo chose for her mezcal, is the Purépecha word for bat.  It's this bat that pollinates the cupreata maguey, among other magueys.

    Mezcal con Flor
    Don Nacho ("don" is an honorific title, used with great respect, and "Nacho" is the Mexican nickname for Ignacio) told me that his cupreata maguey (seen here with its quiote (spike) of yellow maguey flower) takes eight to ten years to mature. Once it matures and throws up the flower spike, the plant can be harvested.

    Mezcal Maira Partiendo Piñas
    When the producer harvests the maguey plant, the first task is to remove the quiote (flower stem); the pencas (leaves) are removed next. The pencas were removed from the places where you can see the diamond shapes on the outside of the hearts.  The pencas can be used in cooking, particularly in making traditional barbacoa and mixiote. The corazón (heart) also known as piña (pineapple) of each maguey plant is then chopped into smaller pieces for baking. In the photo above, Mezcal Uasïsï owner Maira Malo Hernández pitched in to chop some of the piñas. Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH (Maira Malo Hernández).

    Mezcal Tamaño de la Piña
    Here you can see the size of the chopped piñas de maguey.  Each piña can weigh as much as 80 to 100 pounds.  Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Uasïsï Pino al Horno
    Pine logs, stacked firmly into the fire pit.  Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Mezcal Horno
    Don Nacho is tamping the volcanic rock evenly into the pit, on top of the pine logs.  Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Uasïsï Horno Incendido
    The fire in the pit is red hot and smoking.  Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Uasïsï Piñas and Fire
    The fire is burning evenly now, and the piñas are ready to be placed in the baking pit.  The pit will be loaded with approximately 150 piñas weighing a total of about four tons.  Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Uasïsï Horno Tapado
    The burning pit is covered with petates (woven reed mats) and then with mounded earth.  The piñas need to bake for a full week.  Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Mezcal Piñas al Horno
    After a week, the piñas are thoroughly baked and are now uncovered.  At the bottom right-hand corner of the photo, you can see some petates (woven reed mats). Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Mezcal Chopping Trough
    The more than six foot long pine-lined trench where the baked piñas are hand-chopped and smashed with axes.

    Mezcal Machacando Piñas 2
    The vinata crew has moved some of the baked piñas to the trough and are hand-smashing them with axes so that they can be placed into the fermenting tanks. Don Nacho and his crew use no machinery during any stage of their mezcal production.  Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Mezcal Tinacos
    These are the tinacos (covered storage tanks) where the baked and smashed piñas are fermented.  The fermentation process, like the baking process, takes an entire week.

    Mezcal Alambique
    Post-fermentation, the process of double-distillation begins.  This is the alambique (still), made of pine.  As the mezcal distills, the metal top allows condensation to drip back into the still.

    Mezcal Alambique 2
    The other side of the alambique.  Don Nacho explained that the wooden still will last for about one year; after that, the wood will be replaced.

    Mezcal Fire Hole
    This is the fire hole, where a pine wood fire actually cooks the fermented maguey piña mash to distill it.  Above the metal arch of this fire hole are several inches of concrete, the top of which you can see in the photo just before this one.  No fire actually touches the wooden still.

    Uasïsï Ad
    The finished product: Uasïsï Mezcal Joven.  Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Uasïsï Bottle with Labels
    Both sides of the bottle.  The front label, on the right, tells you that this is joven (young, unaged) mezcal with 48% alcohol content.  The back label, on the left, gives all the pertinent information about the mezcal: the number and lot of the bottle, the exact provenance (village or state) of the mezcal, as well as the type of maguey used.  Photo courtesy Uasïsï MMH.

    Cata Mezcal UNLA
    This tasting of Uasïsï mezcal was held at UNLA (Universidad Latina de América) in Morelia, Michoacán.  

    And what, you ask, does Uasïsï joven actually taste like? To start with, if you have tasted other mezcales, you probably and immediately think smokey. Uasïsï is not in any way smokey.  To my palate, Uasïsï joven tastes fresh, like the green of the maguey.  It has tiny lingering tones of Michoacán pine.  It carries a hint of wildflowers.  Because the alcohol content is high, the first sip feels strong in the front of the mouth. As it moves to the back of the tongue, it mellows.  And the moment you swallow that first drop, filled with the flavors of Michoacán, you immediately want another.  Uasïsï is an extraordinary drink, destined to be a star in the world of mezcal.  

    Now that you know you want a bottle (or two or three) of Uasïsï mezcal, where can you get it?  The Uasïsï sales base is currently in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, about an hour from Morelia.  Let me know when you'll be here and we'll go to the source!

    Cristina con Maira y Luis Robledo Morelia en Boca May 2014
    My good friend Maira Malo Hernández and I (pictured at Morelia en Boca 2014 with Mexico City chef and chocolatier Luis Robledo Richards) invite you to buy Uasïsï at:

    La Jacaranda Cultural Pátzcuaro
    Art Gallery, Restaurant, Coffee Bar, Artisan Work, Music, and Cultural Space 
    Calle Doctor José María Coss #4, Centro Histórico
    Pátzcuaro 61600, Michoacán, México 
    Hours: Noon until 9:00PM Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday
               10:00AM – 10:00PM Thursday, Friday, Saturday
    Teléfono: 434-342-0758

    It's entirely possible that Uasïsï mezcal will be coming soon to a liquor store near you.  Check back with Mexico Cooks! from time to time and we'll keep you up to date on the possibility of export to countries outside Mexico.  And if you're planning to be in Mexico and would like to visit the vinata, Mexico Cooks! can make that dream come true.  The experience is magical.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours. 

  • Long Live Independence in Mexico :: Qué Viva La Independencia Mexicana!

    Hidalgo con Estandar
    Padre Miguel Hidalgo, whose 1810 cry for freedom from Spain set in motion the fight for what is now Mexico's independence.  His original estandarte (banner) bearing a likeness of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe) is part of Mexico's historic patrimony.

    Mexico's struggle for freedom from Spanish colonization began in earnest sometime between midnight and dawn on September 16, 1810, when Father Miguel Hidalgo stood up with the estandarte to shout out the Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores–"Dolores" being the name of the town known today as Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato.  The grito precedes the parades of school children and military battalions, politicians proclaiming speeches, and general festivity.  In normal times–prior to COVID-19–Mexico has always celebrated its Fiestas Patrias (Patriotic Holidays) on September 16, with enormous energy.  Last year (2020) and this year will be much more subdued.

    Crucero Banderas
    Flag sellers' carts blossom all over Mexico for a month or so prior to Independence Day.  I usually go take a look at what the latest souvenir is, and if I need to replace the little Mexican flag on my desk, this is the time to do that.

    Grito Bandera Mexicana Chica
    The little Mexican flag on my desk.  I think it will last another year, if the cats don't try to chew on it!  This wee flag measures about six inches long and three inches high.

    Hundreds of books have been written about Mexico's break from Spain, millions of words have been dedicated to exploring the lives of the daring men and women who knew, a bare 200 years ago, that the time had come for freedom.  You can read some of the history on the Internet.  Another excellent source for Mexican history is The Life and Times of Mexico, by Earl Shorris.  You'll find that highly readable book available on the left-hand side of this page.  Just click on the book cover to order it from Amazon. 

    Bandera Monumental Morelia
    This bandera monumental (monumentally-sized Mexican national flag) waves over one of the highest points in the city of Morelia.  In 1999, former Mexican president Ernesto Zedillo Ponce de León initiated the program of oversize flags made to fly over some of Mexico's historic cities.  These enormous flags generally measure more than 14 meters high by 25 meters long and fly from 50-meter-high flagpoles.

    Balcón del Grito Zócalo
    The balcony of Mexico City's Palacio del Gobierno (government office building).  On the night of September 15, President Andrés Manuel López Obrador will stand on the balcony to give the annual grito (shout) that is said to replicate Padre Hidalgo's rallying cry for independence.  In every Mexican town, no matter its size, the elected official will also give the grito during that night.

    Grito
    The Palacio de Gobierno in Morelia, Michoacán, all dressed up on September 15, 2020, ready for the Grito.  In the center of the facade is the balcony from which the Grito is proclaimed by the governor.

    Zocalo-cd-mexico-y-catedral
    Mexico City's metropolitan cathedral and the zócalo (main square) with its bandera monumental, perfect for Independence Day festivities.  The 2021 verbena patria (patriotic festivity) in the nation's capital promises to be low key, in keeping with protection from COVID-19.

    In Morelia, considered to be the cradle of independence–it was in this city, then called Vallodolid, that the pro-independence conspiracy was developed in 1809–the budget is supposed to be 28.5 million pesos (a bit over two million United States dollars).  Many Michoacanos are thrilled with the Fiestas Patrias party plans, while many others are outraged at this huge expenditure that comes at a time when Mexico is suffering not only an economic but a political and psychological crisis.

    Kiosko 16 de septiembre
    A tiny kiosko (bandstand) in a small-town plaza in the state of Jalisco, decorated for its Fiestas Patrias.

    Today, Mexico is as it has always been: a country of profound contrasts.  Life parties with death in 2021 just as much as it did in 1810.  The road behind us and before us is littered with confetti and spent shell casings.  Our continuing task is to find la ruta a la independencia (the path to independence).

    PosadaCalaveria
    José Guadalupe Posada (1851-1913), La Calavería. I suspect these esqueletitos (little skeletons) are celebrating their independence!

    Viva México!  Qué viva!

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Sopa Seca en México Parte Segunda: Pasta :: Dry Soup in Mexico, Part Two: Pasta

    Comida Corrida Quora
    Last week, we talked extensively about sopa seca de arroz–Mexican 'dry soup' made of rice.  Today, take a look at this menu from a fonda (a small, family-run restaurant) serving comida corrida in Mexico CityOn the day this complete meal was offered, it included your choice of sopa aguada (liquid soup, either almejas (clam shaped pasta) soup or cream of calabaza), sopa seca de arroz (rice) OR sopa seca de spaguetti, and your choice of one of the items listed in blue, everything from pollo entomatado (chicken in tomato sauce) to longaniza sausage (similar to Mexican chorizo) and nopales (cactus paddles) in a guajillo chile sauce to chilaquiles con huevo (with eggs), and a huge number of other dishes!

    Longaniza Mercado de Jamaica 31 de octubre 2018 1a
    A young butcher in Mexico City preparing longaniza.  See the casing, on the tube to the left of his left hand?  Book a tour with Mexico Cooks! and we can go watch him in person!

    Today the topic is sopa seca de pasta–"dry soup" made of some kind of Mexican pasta–anything from standard spaghetti to elbow macaroni to some tiny special pastas created just for sopas, whether liquid or dry.  Before I offer you a couple of recipes, here's a bit of the history of wheat (and pastas) in Mexico.

    A Bit of the History of Wheat in Mexico

    Like rice, wheat is not native to this country.  It’s commonly said that wheat arrived—in large quantities–when the Spanish first arrived in the so-called New World. History tells the story of wheat in a different way. Unlike rice, wheat arrived almost by accident in what is now Mexico. 

    The voyages from Europe to what came to be called the Americas were long and arduous, and almost all edible provisions were eaten and depleted prior to the ships’ arrival. Apparently the voyagers weren’t concerned about keeping a few seeds to sow if and when they arrived. For that reason, wheat came to what is now Mexico a little later and by accident.

    According to historians, three grains of wheat were found mixed into what was left of a 50 kilo (110 pound) bag of RICE, and were planted by a servant of Hernán Cortés. Just one of those three wheat grains germinated, and from that single plant, 180 grains of wheat were harvested and replanted. By 1534, only 13 years after the arrival of the Spanish, important harvests of wheat were being made near Texcoco and Puebla, in central Mexico.

    Communion Hosts Wheat
    The Spanish Jesuits subsequently carried wheat to the northern part of Mexico, where they taught the original peoples there to cultivate it, to harvest it, and to grind it into flour. The Spanish colonists were intent on converting the indigenous people to Catholicism, and according to Roman Catholic Canon Law (Canon 924, paragraph 2), pure wheat flour was then and continues to be required for the production of Communion hosts that were consumed by the Spanish colonists and by their indigenous converts. 

    The Spaniards also wanted the grain for the production of the white bread that they were accustomed to eating in Europe. That bread became a staple on the tables of the rich Spanish colonizers, while indigenous people continued to eat corn tortillas, as they had for thousands of years prior to the arrival of the Spanish.
    La Moderna Spaghetti 450gr
    A one-pound package of La Moderna brand durum wheat spaghetti.  The Mexican pasta company La Moderna, founded in 1920, today offers more than 40 pasta shapes just for sopas, whether liquid or dry, in the tiny forms of bowties, gears, alphabet letters, tongues (shaped like tear drops), BBs, lentils, fideos, snail shape, clam shape, crowns, stars, mushrooms, petticoats, tiny elbow, little eyes, little hats, feathers, spirals, screws, and more!  Packages of pasta for sopa weigh 200 grams and cost about 8 pesos (the equivalent in US dollars to about 40 cents). 200 grams of these pastas will feed about 3 to 4 people as the second course of a comida.  
    La Moderna Fideos 1
    Pasta de fideo, also made of durum wheat.  The size numbers of La Moderna fideo range from 0 (the thinnest) to 2 (the thickest).  In Mexico, the second-most popular sopa seca de pasta is fideo, short, straight, thin pieces of pasta.  Fideo is frequently also made into a liquid soup, caldo de fideo.  We'll get to that in a few paragraphs!  

    In today's Mexico, the most popular ways to prepare sopa seca de pasta are:
    1. Any shape pasta–especially fideo–cooked in caldillo, a thin red broth, until the broth is completely absorbed
    2. Cooked pasta stirred into a cream sauce or a creamy tomato sauce and sprinkled with cheese
    3. Hot spaghet
    ti or elbow macaroni with cream and diced ham
    4. Cold elbow macaroni salad
    La Moderna Municiones
    My personal favorite of the La Moderna line of tiny pastas: munición (literally, shot pellets) is the tiniest.  Munición is the size and shape of BBs!  

    Very few nineteenth century post-independence Mexican culinary records include the consumption of various types of pasta: ravioles, macarrones (long noodles), and tallarines (long, flat noodles).  Unless these were made in private homes, immigrants from countries where they were typically eaten brought them to Mexico.  At the time of the Porfiriato (1876-1910), many things here were "Frenchified", as Porfirio Díaz was a francophile through and through.  Italian-type pastas gave way to the French kitchen of elite, wealthy Mexicans. 

    Mexico Cooks! owns a reprinted Mexican cookbook, originally published in 1910, and has spent considerable time studying the recipes.  That cookbook unfortunately offers no reference to pasta of any kind.

    La Moderna was the first commercial pasta made in Mexico; its factory opened in 1920.  There are are other pasta manufacturers in today’s Mexico, most notably La Italiana, with a factory in Puebla, founded also in 1920.  La Italiana produces Italpasta for the Mexican market as does Golden Foods, located in Celaya, Guanajuato. In addition, foreign pasta makers have come to the Mexican market, particularly Barilla, which arrived in Mexico in 2003 and has its Mexico factory in San Luis Potosí. Barilla Mexico caters to the local market with both long and short pasta, plus five tiny pasta shapes specifically for preparing sopa seca.

    La Moderna Codos 1
    La Moderna tiny coditos–wee elbow macaroni.  These are size 1, the smallest made.  Each little elbow measures about 1/2 inch long.

    Forty-six percent of Mexico’s pasta is eaten at comida (Mexico's main meal of the day, eaten at mid-afternoon), either as a sopa seca or as a main dish. That’s 10 times more than we eat for supper, which is traditionally a lighter meal.  The three most-eaten pastas in Mexico are spaghetti (generally spelled espagueti, according to the rules of Spanish pronunciation) at 29%, fideos, 24%, and coditos (all sizes of elbow macaroni from the tiniest ones to the largest), 15%–of the average family consumption of 12.7 kilos of pasta per year.  That's about half the consumption of Italy, pretty amazing.

    Are you ready for some recipes?  I am, let's get cooking!

    Caldo de fideos

    My favorite recipe for sopa seca de fideos is:

    Sopa Seca (Dry Soup) of Fideos
    1. 1 pound fresh ripe tomatoes, chopped
    2. 1/4 of a medium-size onion, chopped
    3. 1 large garlic clove
    4. 1 chipotle chile en adobo (La Morena canned chiles, if you can find them.  Otherwise buy a brand that's readily available.)

    1.5 TBSP vegetable oil
    1 200gr (7.5 oz) package of fine fideo pasta.  If you can't find any brand of fideos, use broken-up angel hair pasta instead.
    1.5 cups chicken broth
    1/2 tsp oregano
    Salt to taste
    ___________________________

    Blend the first 4 ingredients in your blender until they are in small pieces, then add 1 cup of chicken broth and blend until the sauce is smooth.

    Heat the oil in a medium-size skillet and then add the fideos. Fry until lightly browned, stirring often to avoid burning them. This step will take about 2-3 minutes. Remove the fideos from the skillet and reserve.

    Add the caldillo, 1/2 cup of broth, oregano, and salt to taste to the skillet. Turn the heat up to bring to a boil (about 5 minutes). Once the sauce starts boiling, add the noodles, reduce heat to very low, and cover the skillet to let simmer.

    Keep cooking for about 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally as needed until noodles are cooked and tender. If the sauce still seems too liquid when the fideos are cooked through, simply remove the skillet from the heat and set aside for 5 minutes. This will allow the fideos to absorb the remaining liquid from the sauce.

    Serve either family-style in a medium-size bowl or on individual small plates.  Top with Mexican table cream or sour cream, crumbled sharp, dry white cheese and slices of just-ripe avocado.

    Serves 4.
    _________________________________________

    Fideos Dorados
    The fideos, fried to a golden brown.  This pasta is about an inch long and as thin as angel hair.

    Caldo de Fideos

    1 pound fresh ripe tomatoes, chopped
    1/4 of a medium-size onion, chopped
    2 large garlic cloves
    1 cup water
    Salt to taste
    6 cups chicken broth, either home-made or purchased. I like Knorr, the broth in tetrapak, if you need to buy broth.
    7.5 oz package of fideos 
    2 TBSP vegetable oil
    3 sprigs fresh parsley

    Put the tomato, onion, garlic and water into your blender jar and liquefy. When the tomato sauce is smooth, set it aside until you are ready to use it.

    Put the lard or vegetable oil in a deep pot. Heat until it shimmers and add all of the fideos at once. Stir constantly over medium heat until the fideos take on a golden-brown color.

    Pour the reserved tomato sauce through a wire strainer directly into the pot with the browned fideos. Allow to simmer (covered) on low to medium heat for about 5-10 minutes.

    Uncover and add the parsley sprigs to the pot of simmering soup. Replace the cover and simmer for another 20 minutes.

    Serves 4

    Caldo de fideos
    This soup is delicious as a first course for a midday meal or for the main course of a light lunch.  Photo courtesy Mexico10.org.

    Serves 4 to 6.
    _________________________________________

    Sopa de Tiritas Just Tiritas 1a
    Strips of corn tortillas, fried to a crisp golden brown.  I confess that I bought them already prepared!  

    And now for something completely different!  This recipe, which I found recently, is for a sopa seca de tiritas de tortilla (thin, fried corn tortilla strips).  It's not pasta, and it's not rice, and it is delicious!  I particularly like the addition of hierbabuena (fresh mint) to the caldillo.  Combined with the tomato broth and the corn tortilla strips, the flavors give you a big bang as a side dish or second course at your meal.

    Sopa Seca de Tiritas de Tortillas de Maíz con Menta

    Utensils you will need
    A deep, heavy, covered frying pan
    A large wooden spoon

    Colegio Culinario Hierbabuena
    Beautifully fresh home-grown hierbabuena (mint).

    Ingredients
    3-4 Tbsp freshly rendered lard or vegetable oil
    1 medium-size onion, cut into half-moons
    2 finely chopped tomatoes
    3 cups beef broth, either home-made or purchased
    6 big sprigs of fresh mint–leaves only, finely chopped
    Approximately half a pound of fried, thin tortilla strips
    Salt to taste
    1/2 cup aged white cheese, grated.  Look for Cotija-style cheese in your grocer's dairy case.

    Jitomate 1a
    Fresh Roma tomatoes, ripe and delicious

    Procedure  
    In a heavy skillet, heat the fat that you choose until it shimmers.  Add the onion and sauté, stirring constantly, until it is translucent and slightly yellowish.  Add the tomato and continue to cook until the tomato becomes soft and the majority of its juices have evaporated.

    Add the beef broth and the finely chopped mint leaves and allow to simmer for several minutes, until the flavors have incorporated into the onion/tomato mix.  Taste and add salt as necessary.

    Sopa de Tiritas en Caldillo
    Add the fried corn tortilla strips and simmer until all the liquid has been absorbed, approximately 5 minutes.

    Serve on individual small plate, topped with grated cheese, or serve family style on a platter and pass the cheese around to sprinkle thickly on each serving.

    Sopa de Tiritas Queso Cotija
    Finely chopped queso Cotija (Cotija cheese), ready to top your sopa seca de tiritas.

    Serves 4.

    Provecho!  I hope you enjoy these truly home-style Mexican recipes.  I look forward to seeing your comments.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Sopa Seca en México Parte Primera: Arroz :: “Dry Soup” in Mexico Part One: Rice

    El Portalito Interior
    El Portalito, a typical but larger-than-average fonda in Colonia La Condesa, Mexico City.  Mexico Cooks! was a frequent customer for the comida corrida it served prior to the massive earthquake in 2017, after which the restaurant closed permanently due to severe damage to its building.

    A multi-course Mexican comida, the main meal of the day, is normally served in Central Mexico sometime between 2:00 and 3:00PM. Either at home or in a fonda (a small, no-frills family-run restaurant), what you might be offered is called comida corrida: a multi-course meal much different from what one sees as "Mexican food" in the USA or other countries.

    El Portalito Caldo Tlalpen?o
    This sopa aguada is caldo Tlalpeño, rich, delicious chicken broth loaded with fresh vegetables and garbanzo beans.  The sopa seca de arroz (second course) was served at the same time as the first course; you can see the small plateful of arroz rojo at the left in the photo.  Typically, the diner puts several heaping soup spoons of rice in the soup bowl.  This fonda served sliced telera (at the right in the photo, a kind of white roll) rather than tortillas.

    Let’s start with the meal’s first course: soup—known in Mexico as sopa aguada (liquid soup). A liquid soup can be chicken consomé, caldo de pollo, or a cream soup. It might be tomato broth with macaroni, lentil soup, or cream of chile poblano—the selection is infinite.  The caldo Tlalpeño in the photo above is just one example.

    The second course is sopa seca—which literally means “dry soup”. Wait, what? Dry soup?  Give me a minute and I'll explain…

    The various courses go on from there, to your main dish and dessert, and then some!

    Okay, so:

    WHAT THE HECK IS SOPA SECA?

    Sopa seca—so-called "dry soup"—is the reason I was recently invited to participate in a conversation with my dear friend Zarela Martínez and her son Aarón Sánchez, both of whom are serious movers and shakers in the world of Mexican food that's based in the United States.  When that podcast is available online, I will post a link to it on Mexico Cooks!.  We all had a really good time talking to one another about home-style "dry soup" and I am so tickled and grateful to have been invited to talk with the two of them.

    When I talk about sopa seca with foreigners who aren’t familiar with it, they don’t believe me. People say, “'Dry soup' sounds like an oxymoron.  There IS no such thing!” But there issopa seca apparently came into being during the late 19th century, during the Mexican presidency/dictatorship (1876-1910) of Porfirio Díaz, and reached immense national popularity by the 1940s-1950s. Today, sopa seca is a culinary institution unique to Mexico.

    Sops Seca Arroz Rojo Lista
    Voilà–in the photo above you see sopa seca de arroz rojo ("dry soup", aka Mexican red rice).  I prepared this one with a little bit of minced chile serrano and fresh kernels of corn scraped from the cob).  You can also add diced fresh carrots, fresh or frozen peas, and a whole or minced chile serrano, if you like picante (spiciness).

    As the second course of your midday meal, sopa seca opens your appetite for what’s to come. Your sopa seca could be a small plate of arroz a la mexicana (rice, browned to golden in freshly rendered lard or oil and cooked in caldillo (a very thin tomato broth), or it could be a pasta dish; we'll read more about sopa seca de pasta next week here at Mexico Cooks!.  

    A Very Brief History of Rice in Mexico

    Rice is not native to Mexico, although about 20% of the rice we eat here is cultivated in several Mexican states.  The rest is imported from the United States or other countries.

    Judith Carney Black Rice 1
    According to Judith Carney, dean of Black rice in the Americas, rice came with Spanish invaders from the Senegal/Gambia Muslim regions of Africa, by way of the African Diaspora–in the holds of slave ships–beginning in the first quarter of the 16th century, 500 years ago. In 1522 it is documented that Hernán Cortés brought rice seed to Coyoacán from the port of Veracruz; in 1559 Champotón in the Yucatán was exporting rice “20 years after its establishment” there, and in 1579, both rice and millet were being grown in Sant María de la Victoria, Tabasco. Citation: Judith Carney, Dean of Black Rice in the Americas, Africana Studies, February 2011.

    However, other sources state that the Moors introduced rice to Spain starting in about 700AD, during their conquest of Spain; then to Italy in the 15th century, then to France, and then to post-Spanish-invasion lands, on all continents. The early conflict between the Moors and the Spanish Christians is immortalized in the traditional Cuban dish “Moors and Christians”—in which black beans play the Moors and white rice represents the Spanish, the two brought together and blended in both history and on a plate.

    Yet another theory reports that rice is a grain from Eastern Asia brought to Mexico from the Philippines at the start of the colonial period.  There are various ways to prepare rice such as: white; red; black; yellow; Puebla style; jardinière; and a la tumbada (Veracruz style) rice. Rice is used also to accompany different stews, roasts, mole-sauces, and adobo-sauces. The proper cooking point, texture, and consistency is a true controversy among different families and regions. In Southeast Mexico, rice is made mainly white to accompany the main dish of the meal. In Mexico City and other parts of central Mexico rice is usually cooked red [with tomatoes] and is served as a dry soup after the sopa aguada (broth-y soup), and before the main dish. It is common to top rice with a fried egg, or slices of fresh banana, or even mole. This seems highly logical, but another source says that until 1802 the Spanish considered rice to be a pagan cereal unfit for Christian consumption—almost 300 years after first contact!  

    It seems reasonable to believe both theories: the Mexican ports on the Pacific coast are a very long way from the ports on the Atlantic coast, and both Hernán Cortés and the Nao de China (the Spanish galleon) could easily have brought rice to the coasts of the "New World".  Today, rice is the third-most-consumed grain in Mexico, superseded only by corn and wheat.  Courtesy agrosintesis.com.

    Now for today's recipes!  Here's how Mexico Cooks! prepares caldillo and sopa seca de arroz.

    Sopa de Arroz Ingredientes Close Up 1
    Ingredients for the caldillo.

    Utensils for Caldillo
    Blender

    3 or 4 large red, completely ripe Roma tomatoes, coarsely chopped
    1/4 large white onion, coarsely chopped
    A piece of chile serrano about 1/2" long, more if you want your tomato broth to be spicy.
    About a cup of chicken broth or water
    Salt to taste

    Method of preparation for the Caldillo
    Put the chicken broth or water into your blender jar.  Add the tomatoes, the onion, and the piece of chile.  Blend until very smooth.  Once it's very smooth, add chicken broth until the caldillo is fairly thin.  Simmer the caldillo (with the pot lid ajar) until some of the liquid evaporates and the flavors have blended, about 15 minutes over a very low flame.
    ___________________________________–

    Utensils for Sopa Seca de Arroz
    A heavy pot with a cover, the pot preferably wider than it is deep, that will hold all of the ingredients in the recipe
    A wooden spoon

    Ingredients
    1 whole chile serrano, split from the tip almost to the stem end (optional)
    3 Tbsp freshly rendered pork lard (or vegetable oil)  
    1 or 2 cloves of garlic (optional–I'm not crazy about garlic in the rice, but many love it)
    1.5 cups raw white rice, washed in running water, drained, and allowed to dry
    All of the kernels cut from an ear of fresh yellow corn
    2 cups caldillo
    1 cup chicken broth
    A few sprigs of fresh cilantro, stems and all, washed
    Salt to taste

    Tip to the wise: if you see a brick-sized block of snow white, hydrogenated pork lard in your butcher's refrigerator case, run the other way.  You can buy freshly rendered pork lard at a Mexican food store near you. 

    Method of Preparation    

    Arroz Buenavista Package 1
    The rice that I use is Buenavista, grown in the state of Morelos, Mexico and available here and in some other places.  I know people who come for a visit to Mexico and take a few kilos back home with them, it's that good.  In my opinion, this is the best rice in the world for use in Mexican cooking.  The grain is large, it cooks to a delicious flavor and mouth-feel, and I love using a rice that's grown in this country. 

    Sopa de Arroz Arroz Crudo 1 
    Raw white rice, washed, drained, and dried.  It's toasting in melted lard in an old Chantal enamel-on-steel casserole, and that's my favorite wooden spoon. Put the fat you are using in the pot and bring to a shimmer.  You don't want it to smoke.  Add chile serrano, if you are using it; allow it to blacken.  Add the garlic, if you are using it, and allow the cloves to soften.   Then add the washed and dried rice, stirring constantly over medium heat until the grains of rice are toasted to a golden brown and "sound like sand" as you stir them in the bottom of the pot.  Thanks, Chef Rick Bayless, for that perfect description of the sound! 

    It's easy to burn rice, so keep your eye on it and don't stop stirring.  

    Sopa de Arroz Arroz Tostado 1
    When the rice is browned to golden, add the caldillo to the rice pot and bring to a full rolling boil. 

    Sopa de Arroz Ingredientes Blended 1
    As soon as it reaches the boiling point, immediately lower the heat to a simmer, add the fresh corn kernels, salt to taste, add fresh cilantro, stir once to combine with the rice, cover the rice pot and allow to simmer (not boil) until all of the liquid is absorbed.  I live at high altitude (6500 feet above sea level), so it takes about 20-23 minutes to cook rice.  Set your timer to 20 minutes and peek into the pot to see how the rice is coming along.  You need to keep checking, the cooking time might be different at your altitude.  At NO TIME should you stir the rice; stirring breaks the grains and you want the rice grains to remain intact.  When you see that the rice is done, keep the pot covered, turn off the fire and allow the rice to sit for a few minutes.  Take the top off the pot, give the rice a quick stir, and serve.

    Sopa de Arroz Caldillo Cooking 1
    The rice and caldillo are almost to a full rolling boil.  

    Sopa de Arroz Elote Cortado 1
    Fresh corn kernels added to the rice/caldillo mixture.  Give this mixture one good stir, cover the pot, turn the flame down to a low simmer, and don't touch it again till it's done.

    Sops Seca Arroz Rojo Lista
    Here once again is the first photo, Mexican sopa seca de arroz rojo, ready to serve.  When you taste it, you'll taste a touch of toasted flavor, some tomato, a hint of cilantro: everything fresh, everything healthy–even the lard is healthy, should you choose to use lard.  It's always my first choice for a savory fat.  

    Cooking time: 20-23 minutes

    Serves: approximately 6

    Provecho! (Good appetite!)

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Old-Fashioned Kitchen Sayings (Part Two) :: Dichos Mexicanos de la Cocina (Parte 2)

    Pollo Listo para Caldo
    A beautiful pink and golden Mexican chicken, ready for the soup pot.

    Last week's article about Mexico's dichos de la cocina (kitchen sayings) was just the tip of the iceberg.  I love them so much that I thought you might like to learn more of them!

      Chiles Rellenos Conde Pétatl
    Chile relleno con frijoles negros de la olla (stuffed poblano chile served with freshly cooked black beans). 

    Mexico's dichos de la cocina (kitchen sayings) number in the hundreds, if not the thousands.  Just like sayings and proverbs in any language, Mexican dichos usually have a double meaning: what the words of the saying are, and then how they are interpreted.  In English, the phrase "the early bird catches the worm" make sense just as you read it, but it has a secondary import: if you start your endeavor sooner rather than later, you have a much better chance of success.  So it is with all of these!

    Hog Heaven Bouquet de Cabezas
    Pig heads at a Mexico City market, ready to buy and take home to make pozole.

    Here are some of Mexico Cooks!' personal favorite kitchen sayings:

    –Vale más pan con amor, que gallina con dolor.  Bread eaten with love is worth more than chicken eaten with pain.
    –Se cambia mas fácilmente de religión que de café. 
    It's easier to change your religion than to change your coffee.
    –Quien hambre tiene, en pan piensa. 
    The hungry person thinks of bread. 

    Pan con Cafe
    Café con leche
    (coffee with milk) served with a basket of pan dulce (sweet Mexican breads).

    –El que parte y comparte, se queda con la mejor parte.  The one who portions and shares, gets the best part.
    –Al hablar, como al guisar, su granito de sal.  In speaking and cooking, a grain of salt.
    –Frutos y amores, los primeros son los mejores.  Fruits and loves–the first are the best.

    Paracho Fruta con Avejas
    A street vendor's fresh fruit in Paracho, Michoacán.  He sells seasonal fruits, including papaya, sandía (watermelon), and mango.  Enlarge any photo for better detail–in this photo, you'll see the bees.

    –Guajolote que se sale del corral, termina en mole.  The turkey that gets out of the yard ends up in mole.
    –La vida es como una cebolla, uno la pela llorando.  Life is like an onion, you cry while you peel it.
    –Mata el pollo y pon la mesa.  Kill the chicken and set the table.

    Frijol y Agua
    Frijol peruano ('Peruvian' beans), ready to cook in a clay pot filled with water.

    –Mentir y comer pescado quieren cuidado.   Be careful when lying and eating fish.
    –Nunca falta un negrito en el arroz.  There is always a black speck in the rice.
    –Al hambre de siete días, no hay pan duro.  If you've been hungry for a week, there is no such thing as hard bread.

    Flor de Lis Champurrado
    Champurrado (chocolate atole) at Restaurant Flor de Lis, Mexico City. 

    –De golosos y tragones, están llenos los panteones.  Cemeteries are filled with gluttons and big eaters.
    En la forma de agarrar el taco, se conoce al que es tragón.  They can tell if you're a big eater by the way you hold your taco.
    La mujer y las tortillas, calientes han de ser.  Women and tortillas have to be hot.

    Carnitas Taco 1
    Taco de carnitas at a Mexico City tianguis (street market).

    There are literally hundreds more Mexican kitchen sayings.  Sometime soon Mexico Cooks! will be back with more.   

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Old Fashioned Kitchen Sayings from Mexico :: Dichos de Antaño de la Cocina Mexicana

    Tzintzuntzan Frijolitos al Fogón
    Frijoles boil in a clay pot placed on a creative fogón (on-the-ground cooking fire).  The fire ring is the wheel rim of a truck, the wood is what was available.  The clay pot ensures old-fashioned flavor and Mexico Cooks!' interest in the cooking process ensured old-fashioned hospitality. "When will the beans be ready?" I asked.  "Come back at 1:30," the cook told us.  "They'll be ready to share, and I'll make some tortillas."

    Twenty or more years ago, Mexico Cooks! ate a once-in-a-lifetime meal in Mexico.  Simplicity itself, the comida (midday meal) consisted of steamed white rice piled with home-grown sliced bananas, homemade fresh cheese, frijoles de la olla (beans in their pot liquor, freshly cooked as in the photo above), and hand-patted tortillas, hot from the comal (griddle).  That meal, served in an outdoor kitchen, was our introduction to Mexican tradition, authenticity, and hospitality, all on a level we had never known before.

    Food, shared with friends and acquaintances, brings us together in elemental hospitality.  Food and the sharing of it in Mexico have, since earliest times, given rise to wonderful dichos (sayings) from the kitchen. 
    A Comer y a Misa...
    This hand-embroidered tablecloth was made for display at Pátzcuaro's Museo Regional del Arte Popular (Regional Folk Arts Museum).  Every one of its many, many sayings stitched into the cloth is a dicho de la cocina The one closest to the bottom of the photo says, "Del plato a la boca, se cae la sopa." ("Between the plate and the mouth, the soup spills")–which means "between one's intention and one's accomplishment, a lot can go wrong".

    Quoting a dicho de la cocina always brings a smile.  Here are a few favorites:

    • Mujer que guisa, se casa a prisa.  (The woman who cooks is soon married.)
    • A comer y a misa, a la primer llamada.  (To eat and to Mass, go at the first call.)
    • Mejor llegar a tiempo que ser invitado.  (It's better to arrive on time than to be invited.)

    Mesa para Visitas
    Whether rich or poor, people always invite others to share their table.  It's seriously offensive to refuse an offered meal.

    • Al que nace para tamal, del cielo le caen las hojas.  If you're born to be a tamal, your corn husks will fall from heaven.
    • Come a gusto y placentero y que ayune tu heredero.  Eat what you like and at your pleasure–let your descendants fast!
    • Cuando el ratón está lleno, hasta la harina le sabe amarga.  When the mouse is full, even flour tastes bitter to him.

    Pozole Rojo
    Red pozole, made with pork, chiles, and nixtamal de maíz cacahuatzintle (a type of processed dried corn), is one of Mexico's most comforting meals.  For a wonderfully rich recipe, try this one from our friend Rolly's favorite cook, Doña Martha.

    • Desayunar como rey, comer como príncipe y cenar como mendigo.  Eat breakfast like a king, eat at midday like a prince, and have supper like a beggar.
    • El hambre es la buena, no la comida.  Hunger is the good thing, not the food.
    • El que parte y comparte, se queda con la mejor parte.  The one who cuts and serves the food gets the best part.

    Uchepos de Nata
    Uchepos de leche
    are a regional Michoacán specialty served for breakfast or supper.

    • Fuchi… ¡quiero más!  It's AWFUL…give me some more!
    • Gástalo en la cocina y no en medicina.  Spend your money in the kitchen, not on medicine.
    • Invierno buen tiempo para el herrero, el panadero y el chocolatero.  Winter's a good time for the ironworker, the baker, and the chocolate maker.

    Caldo de Pollo Casera 1
    Mexican caldo de pollo–traditional chicken soup–is hearty with shredded chicken, carrots, calabacita (similar to zucchini), potatoes, and chayote.  Dressed and seasoned at the table with a spritz of jugo de limón (Key lime juice), roughly chopped cilantro, minced onion, and a spoonful of spicy salsa, it's absolutely essential to one's comfort and well-being.

    • La comida entra por los ojos. Food comes in through the eyes.
    • La paciencia es amarga, pero sus frutos son dulces.  Patience is bitter, but its fruits are sweet.
    • La venganza es dulce al paladar, pero amarga para la garganta.  Vengance is sweet in the mouth, but bitter in the throat.

    Outdoor Kitchen
    An outdoor kitchen is still common in rural areas of Mexico.  This one, near Morelia, Michoacán is lovely, dressed in soft blue paint and flowers.

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Mexico’s Most Popular Drink :: The Michelada, Perfect for Midsummer!

    Michelada 1
    A perfect michelada, rimmed with Tajín and topped with crunchy fresh cucumber.  Spicy, salty, beery, umami-rich, and completely refreshing.

    Here in Mexico–everywhere in Mexico!–the single most popular beer drink is the michelada. Its ingredients, always based on beer, depend on the bartender, the part of the country one is in, or on one's personal taste.  A michelada is an any-time, any-season drink.

    We see fútbol (soccer) stadiums full of people slugging down liters of stadium-prepared micheladas, parties at home where no other alcoholic beverage is served, and restaurant tables full of people slurping them down along with their barbacoacarne asada, or pozole–or accompanying a hamburger and fries, or a salad.  The michelada goes with just about any sort of food.  Popular wisdom also knows it as a super hangover cure, so hey–beer for breakfast in your hour of need?  Why not, just this once?

    Michelada Corona
    The primary ingredient of any michelada is beer.  Most people prefer a light-colored lager, but once in a while someone will order a michelada made with dark beer. Corona is just one option; any light-colored lager will do. First and foremost is to use the lager you prefer: Corona, Pacifico, Modelo, or any other. And your beer doesn't even have to be made in Mexico; use whatever country's beer you like best. Photo courtesy Corona.

    The seasonings in a michelada typically include either Clamato, V8, or plain tomato juice, plus Worcestershire sauce, a very hot bottled salsa like Valentina, Cholula, Yucateca, or any of dozens on the grocer's shelf, salt—lots of salt—powdered chile, the umami-heavy seasoning liquid called Maggi, and freshly-squeezed jugo de limón (the juice of a Key lime). 

    Michelada Tajin
    Rim a frosted pint mug or glass with powdered Tajín (a commercial mix of powdered dry chile, limón flavoring, and salt).  You can find Tajín in almost any supermarket. There are imitators, but if you can find Tajín, it's the best.  Photo courtesy Tajín. 

    Tip to the wise: to evenly rim a glass: put a generous quantity of Tajín in a saucer.  In another saucer, put about 1/4 cup of water or jugo de limón (Key lime) Holding your mug or glass upside down and level, dip its opening just a bit into the water, then into the Tajín.  Voilà!

    Campbell's Tomato Juice 64 oz 1

    Campbell's tomato juice contains tomato juice from concentrate, potassium chloride, ascorbic acid, citric acid, salt, malic acid, and other flavorings.  Photo courtesy Campbell's.

    Michelada clamato
    Clamato contains water, tomato concentrate, high fructose corn syrup, MSG, salt, citric acid, onion powder, celery seed, garlic powder, dried clam broth, unspecified spices, vinegar, natural flavors, food coloring, and ascorbic acid to maintain color.  Photo courtesy Clamato.

    Now add the rest of the ingredients.  Here's a recipe to get you started; experiment with micheladas till the flavor blend is exactly the way you like it.

    Micheladas a la mexicana

    • light-colored lager beer of your choice
    • Clamato, V8, or tomato juice
    • 3 or 4 splashes hot sauce, more or less to taste.  Try Valentina, or Cholula, or use your favorite.
    • 2 splashes of Worcestershire sauce
    • 2 splashes of Maggi sauce 
    • Juice of one lime

      Fill the glass about ¼ to ? with the V8, tomato, or Clamato juice. Add the hot sauce, the lime juice, the Worcestershire sauce, and the soy sauce. If you used Tajín to salt the rim, pour any excess from the plate into the glass.  Fill the rest with cold beer and top off your micheladas with sticks of celery or jícama, skewers of shrimp or olives, half-moons of cucumber, freshly-cooked octopus–really, anything within the limits of your imagination.  And for good measure, add another splash of Maggi. 

    Michelada Worcestershire Sauce
    In the United States, the ingredients in Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce are: distilled white vinegar, molasses, sugar, water, salt, onions, anchovies, garlic, cloves, tamarind extract, natural flavorings, and chili pepper extract.  Anchovies–did you know that?  Photo courtesy Lee & Perrins.

    Michelada Valentina--4-Lt
    Valentina is arguably Mexico's best-known bottled salsa. The photo shows the four liter bottle–nearly a gallon! That size should keep you in micheladas for quite a while. If you'd prefer a smaller bottle, you can buy Valentina, either hot or extra-hot, in a 12.5 ounce size.  The ingredients are water, chile peppers, vinegar, salt, spices and sodium benzoate (as a preservative). The taste can be described as a citrus flavor, with a nicely spicy aftertaste. Photo courtesy Valentina.

    Michelada Maggi
    If you're not already using Maggi for cooking, look for it until you find it for your micheladas.  Of Swiss origin, Maggi is ubiquitous, literally a global phenomenon, used all over the world to add an extra touch of taste to savory recipes.  It's indispensable in a michelada, bringing the utmost in umami to the drink.  Your micheladas will be pale in flavor without it.  The ingredients of Maggi vary by country; if you have an MSG sensitivity, be sure to look for that in the ingredients list.  Some countries' Maggi have it, some don't.  Photo courtesy Maggi.

    Michelada V8
    V8 Original juice contains a blend of reconstituted vegetable juices including tomatoes, carrots, celery, beets, parsley, lettuce, watercress, and spinach, plus a tiny percentage of salt, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and natural flavoring. Photo courtesy V8. <

    Now add the rest of the ingredients.  Here's a recipe to get you started; experiment with micheladas till the flavor blend is exactly the way you like it.

    Micheladas a la mexicana

    • light-colored lager beer of your choice
    • Clamato or V8 or tomato juice
    • 3 or 4 splashes hot sauce, more or less to taste.  Try Valentina, or Cholula, or use your favorite.
    • 2 splashes of Worcestershire sauce
    • 2 splashes of Maggi sauce 
    • Soy sauce to taste.
    • Juice of one limón (Key lime)

      Fill the glass about ¼ to ? with the Clamato juice. Add the hot sauce, the lime juice, the Worcestershire sauce, and the soy sauce. If you used Tajín to salt the rim, pour any excess from the plate into the glass.  Fill the rest with cold beer and top off your micheladas with sticks of celery or jícama, skewers of shrimp or olives, half-moons of cucumber, freshly-cooked octopus–really, anything within the limits of your imagination.  And for good measure, add another splash of Maggi. 

    Limo?n criollo
    Finally, the taste of freshly squeezed jugo de limón (juice from the key lime) will brighten up your michelada in a way that regular lime juice won't.  You'll find limones in many supermarkets and Latin specialty markets.  The juice of one limón per liter of michelada is the ratio you want.  Mexico Cooks! photo. 

    The name michelada is said to be made of three words: 'mi' (my) 'chela' (a popular nickname for any beer) and 'helada' (icy cold). How many micheladas are consumed in Mexico every year?  Untold millions!  Do your part this summer to keep the numbers up!

    Salud!  (To your health!)

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.

  • Chiles Rellenos en Nogada, El Rey de los Chiles :: Stuffed Chiles in Walnut Sauce, The King of Chiles

    Chile en Nogada Fonda Fina Aug 21 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada (chile poblano stuffed with a seasonal filling and topped with fresh walnut sauce, chopped parsley, walnut meats, and pomegranates), as served by chef Juan Cabrera Barron at Fonda Fina, Mexico City, August 21, 2017.

    Freshly Cut Walnuts Chile en Nogada
    Freshly harvested nuez de castilla (walnuts), an essential for seasonal chiles en nogada.  Photo courtesy El Sol de Puebla.

    Mexico celebrates its independence during the entire month of September with parades, parties, and traditional food and drink, served in restaurants and at home.  The traditional festive dish served beginning in July and throughout the weeks just before and after the Independence Day holiday is chiles en nogada, a magnificent tribute to the seasonal availability of a certain kind of peach, the locally grown panochera apple, in-season granadas (pomegranates) and nuez de castilla (freshly harvested walnuts). From mid-July until early October, seasonal local fruits, fresh pomegranates, and newly harvested walnuts make chiles en nogada possible.  Mildly spicy chiles poblano, stuffed with picadillo and topped with richly creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, flaunt the brilliant green, white and red of the Mexican flag. 

    Manzana panochera y pera lechera
    The panochera apple, grown in the Mexican state of Puebla, and pera lechera (milky pear), also grown in the area, are two must-have ingredients for making chiles en nogada in Mexico.  If you live outside Mexico, small crisp apples and very crisp pears (Bosque or d'Anjou) would substitute.

    This festive dish is traditionally served on September 15 or 16 in honor of Mexico's Independence Day, though it is popular anytime from late July through October. During late July, August and September in the highlands of Mexico, particularly in Mexico City and Puebla, vendors wander tianguis (street markets) and other markets, selling the clean, white meats of nuez de castilla. It is important to use the freshest walnuts possible, as they produce such a creamy, rich sauce that it is worth the effort to buy them peeled or peel them oneself.  Yes, the recipe is time-consuming…but you and your guests will jump up and shout "VIVA!" when you've licked the platters clean. 

    Ingredients

    For the meat:  

    • 2 pounds beef brisket or other stew meat or 1 pound ground beef and 1 pound ground pork 
    • 1 small white onion, quartered 
    • 2 large cloves garlic 
    • about 1 Tbsp sea salt

     For the picadillo (filling):  

    • 4 Tbsp safflower or canola oil
    • the shredded or ground meats
    • 1/3 cup chopped white onion
    • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
    • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • 1/8 tsp ground cloves
    • 3 heaping Tbsp raisins
    • 1 or 2 chiles serrano, finely minced
    • 4 Tbsp chopped fresh walnuts 
    • 4 Tbsp slivered blanched almonds (optional)
    • 2 Tbsp finely diced biznaga (candied cactus, optional)
    • 1 fresh pear, peeled and chopped
    • 1 apple, peeled and chopped
    • 4 ripe peaches, peeled and diced
    • 3 Tbsp Mexican pink pine nuts.  Substitute white if you aren't able to find pink.
    • 3 large, ripe tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
    • sea salt to taste

    Flaneur Chiles Poblanos Rojos Tehuaca?n 2016
    Fully mature chiles poblano, picked fresh in Tehuacán, Puebla.  

    Rajas Chiles Asados y Pelados
    Green chiles poblano are normally used for chiles en nogada.  These have been roasted and peeled and are ready for stuffing.

    For the chiles:

    –6 fresh chiles poblanos, roasted, peeled, slit open, and seeded, leaving the stem intact   

     For the nogada (walnut sauce):  

    • 1 cup fresh walnuts 
    • 6 ounces queso de cabra (goat cheese), queso doble crema or standard cream cheese (not fat free) at room temperature 
    • 1-1/2 cups crema mexicana or 1-1/4 cups sour cream thinned with milk 
    • about 1/2 tsp sea salt or to taste
    • 1 Tbsp sugar   
    • 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 
    • 1/4 cup dry sherry (optional)

    Pomegranate
    Remove the arils (seeds) from a pomegranate.  We who live in Mexico are fortunate to find pomegranate seeds ready to use, sold in plastic cups.

    For the garnish 

    –1 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
    –1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds 

    Preparation:

    Cut the meat into large chunks, removing any excess fat. Place the meat into a large Dutch oven with the onion, garlic, and salt. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that collects on the surface. Lower the heat and allow the water to simmer about 45 minutes, until the meat is just tender. Take the pot off the stove and let the meat cool in the broth. Remove the pieces of meat and finely shred them. 

    If you are using ground meats, the above step is unnecessary.  Simple brown the ground meats and then add the rest of the ingredients under the heading "picadillo" (above).

    Biznaga cristalizada
    Candied biznaga cactus.  Do try to find this ingredient in your local market.  There isn't an adequate substitute, so if you don't find it, leave it out.

    Warm the oil in a large, heavy skillet and sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat until they turn a pale gold. Stir in the shredded meat and cook for five minutes. Add the cinnamon, pepper, and cloves, then, stir in the raisins, the two tablespoons of chopped walnuts. Add the chopped pear, apple, biznaga, and mix well. Add the tomatoes and salt to taste, and continue cooking over medium-high heat until most of the moisture has evaporated. Stir often so that the mixture doesn't stick. Let cool, cover, and set aside. The picadillo may be made a day or two in advance.

    Chiles en Nogada
    Beautifully home-prepared chiles en nogada, as presented several years ago at a traditional food exhibition in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.

    Make a slit down the side of each chile, just long enough to remove the seeds and veins. Keep the stem end intact. Drain the chiles, cut side down, on paper towels until completely dry. Cover and set aside. The chiles may be prepared a day in advance. 

    At least three hours in advance, put the walnuts in a small pan of boiling water. Remove from the heat and let them sit for five minutes. Drain the nuts and, when cool, rub off as much of the dark skin as possible. into small pieces. Place the nuts, cream cheese, crema, and salt in a blender and purée thoroughly. Stir in the optional sugar, cinnamon, and sherry until thoroughly combined. Chill for several hours. 

    Preheat the oven to 250ºF. When ready to serve, reheat the meat filling and stuff the chiles until they are plump and just barely closed. Put the filled chiles, covered, to warm slightly in the oven. After they are heated through, place the chiles (cut side down) on a serving platter or on individual plates, cover with the chilled walnut sauce, and sprinkle with the chopped parsley and pomegranate seeds. 

    Azul Histo?rico Chile en Nogada
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Azul Histórico, Mexico City.

    Chile en Nogada PdeH Aug 13 2017 MC
    Chile en nogada as served at Restaurante Pasillo de Humo, Mexico City.

    This dish may be served at room temperature, or it may be served chilled. It is rarely if ever served hot. 

    Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.